All Over Australia - 15,000km in 24 days. A LAP OF OZ ON KAWASAKI NOMADS
From: Gary Jessup - "gary jessup"
Day 1. Well today is the day, it is time to leave Sale [in Victoria] and head off on the real TOUR OF DUTY......This is something I have wanted to do for 25 years.. 5.30 am rise and shine, a strong coffee and a bit of toast, last minute checks on the bikes, pecks on the cheeks for the missus and we're off. First stop 2kms down the road to fuel up at Sale Horizon. Cool and overcast conditions greet us on this first day of the trip around OZ. Time to see how the 2way radios are working, a quick chat to my brother Alf and things are fine. Not too much to see on this first bit as we travel this road fairly often to visit our parents who live in Lakes Entrance. Stop at lakes for fuel, then on to see the folks for 10mins.

Leaving Lakes we head up the Princes Hwy which is not too bad a ride on a cruiser, but much better on a sports bike. Next stop is Eden for fuel. Leaving Eden the skies are threatening rain, just what we don't want this early on the first day. The Princes Highway from Eden now bypasses Merimbula and goes to Bega. Last time we rode out of Bega there were plenty of 35k and 45k marked corners, now all gone and replaced by big sweepers, which suit the fat tarts better anyhow. Next stop Batemans Bay for fuel. While paying the skies decided to open up, great...Leaving town under heavy rain didnít really dampen our spirits, how long could it last.

Next stop is Heathcote, guess what still pissing down. Off again and we pass a nasty 4 car pileup just outside Nowra, still raining. Next stop Gosford for the night, we try and get an onsite van, but hey none available. Back into town and a motel will have to be home for the night. While deciding on a motel it now really decides to rain, what we had earlier was only light compared to this. Got the motel, can't wait for a hot shower and a feed. We also had to try and dry our sodden gear even after having full rainsuits on that always seem to leak around the goolies, don't you hate that!!!

Day1 ....913.8km

Day 2. Fuel at Gosford. Guess what! still raining. We head up the coast confident that the rain will go away. Still raining as we pull up in Taree for fuel and a stop at the local bakery for brekky. As we pull in to Coffs Harbour the rain stops. Typical ... Coffs will be our overnight stop as we are staying with a mate, Ben Middlemiss. Ben is co-owner of Wisemans Motorcycles in Coffs with another mate Peter Watson. If you are ever up this way drop in and see the guys, great service and quality work assured. Got both bikes serviced and Alf got a new rear tyre fitted at 15000km. We stayed around the shop all arvo and caught up with Rick from Perth on his XJR1300 roo killer. One was foolish enough to try and head butt him on his way over, it lost. Back to Bens for tea that night and his wife Sue cooked us up a delicious roast ... SILVERSIDE!!!. Sorry Sue I know I promised not to tell, but some things must be shared. If you have never tried it you may be surprised, just donít use any salt !!!.

Day 2.....472.1km

Day 3. Left Coffs at 12.15pm and guess what ... it starts raining about 30km up the road, we'll have to cut the string towing the cloud behind us. Stop for fuel in Ballina at 2.30pm still raining . Next stop for fuel Eagle Farm, Alf is going to Brissie to see friends and I'm off to our overnight stop at Mal and Jo's at Coolum Beach. We have known Mal since primary school and it'll be good to catch up with him again.

As I'm going past Nambour the heaviest rain I've ever been in starts flogging down and slows traffic to 15kmh on the freeway, there's also a metre of water running across the road, and its pitch black dark to boot. I finally get to Coolum at 7.45pm and get into a hot shower. Mal's busy with business so I crack a beer and relax. When he finishes we sit and catch up on what's been happening in our respective states. Alf arrives at 1.30am and hits the sack pronto.

Day 3.....562.1km

Day4. Mal starts work early, which suits us fine as we get on the road at 8.00 am after a delicious brekky cooked by Jo. First stop is Gympie for fuel. Don't recall much about this part as it was raining that much you could drink it running off your moustache, and we were wet through again. Next stop was for fuel at Gin Gin and it's still raining so we continue to our overnight stop at Boyne Island, where we are staying with Darren and Sharyn friends originally from Newborough where I live.

Actually everyone we've stayed with is from there. Darren works at the Boyne Aluminium Smelter which is an impressive sight, 4 buildings each 1km long, so we go and do the tourist thing there. While at Boyne Island we went and got some cheap camelbaks from Big W $49.95 in case it ever warms up. We also got a guided tour of the Boyne Island-Gladstone area as well.

Day 4.....434.7km

Day 5. Still raining when we got up so we decided to have a rest day to see if it would blow over, didn't do much except sit and relax and talk.

Day 5.....20.0km

Day 6. After having another cooked brekky, we are really getting spoilt now and saying our good byes we fuel up at Boyne Island and get on the road at 7.05 am, may as well have saved the rest day as it starts raining again. Not much to see through the rain. Next fuel stop is Tooloomba . Here we meet up with Val & Robyn on a Yamaha Royal Star and Scott on a CBR 900. We stop and chew the fat about various things for nearly an hour, then itís time to hit the road again, so we all leave together, amazingly there's no rain ...yet.

Next stop for fuel is Ibilbie, the big Yamaha takes about the same as my Nomad, Alf's Nomad usually gets about 1km per ltr less than mine, and Scott's CBR 900 has a liking for juice. We decide to have a counter lunch at the Sarina pub, as we are about to leave Ibilbie it starts raining again. About 50km up the road I notice Scott stretching and moving about on the CBR so I offer to swap mounts with him which he accepts. I find getting on a sports bike gives my back a bit of change as well . We swap back about 80km later. I think he may be a convert but won't admit it.

Lunch at Sarina pub was good, cheap and tasty, beer was also cold. After reluctantly leaving the pub our next stop is at Proserpine for fuel. Scott, Alf and I are going to stay at Airlie Beach, Val and Robyn had already booked a motel in Bowen for the night, and they offer us a bed at their place on our way back from Cairns. Sadly we didn't get there so we couldn't accept. Thanks for the offer. Scott tells us he's up this way thanks to his girlfriend who has given him a 3 Day cruise on the Whitsundays, lucky fella huh.

After a quick look around Airlie Beach we book into a Backpacker Hostel, the first one on the left coming into town $10.00per night per bed. Time to unload the bikes and see who were bunking with. It turns out were with 3 Poms whose names I've forgotten, after stowing our gear, I'm off to the bar for a beer and Alf and Scott are checking out the pool. A few beers later and it's time for a meal, a tub, and bed. A great place for singles but dangerous for us hitched blokes, you can get a crook neck here in no time. Nuff said!!

Day 6.....616.8km

Day7. 7.05am. Alf arises a few minutes before me and on his way out the door gets an eyefull of hooters from a young blondie sprawled on a bed, who has obviously got no problem with gravity he informs me, and no nightie. We leave Scott still sprawled on his bunk, he must have put in a big one, along with the pommies who appear to have acquired some bed warmers. It starts raining about 3km out of Airlie Beach, which is not surprising as it has been overcast all night. First stop is Bowen for brekky then on to Ayr for fuel. Next stop is Townsville for lunch and fuel.

Now we make a hard decision whether to go to Cairns or not, as we have had rain for 3,000 out of 3,300km travelled so far and we are sick of it. After talking to some travellers who have just come from there, it is decided to hang a left and head for Charters Towers. We stop in Charters Towers for fuel, and an ice cream, itís amazing how the weather changes in such a small distance. We leave there and head west for Hughenden, which will be our overnight stop.

Upon arrival we fuel up and book into the caravan park for the night. While talking to the manager I comment on how ominous the clouds look, but he assures me that ěwe rarely get rain hereî to which I reply 'Victorians on bikes I wouldn't be so sure'. Alright you guessed it while cooking up some 2 min noodles it started , thankfully for us it only lasted about 5mins.Iím sure the locals would have wanted more though, as it was the first rain they'd had in 10 weeks.

At about 11.30 that night a horse in the paddock about 6ft from us decided to let rip with a huge whinny, after levitating our swags and tents we got back to sleep eventually.

Day 7.....773.7km

Day 8. Upon waking and giving the can of Pal on legs the evil eye, we packed up and headed to the Shell Truck Stop for brekky. Not far out of Hughenden someone had cleaned up a big grey and black pig, then about 5ks up the road a huge snake was doing his bit for the road toll by acting as a speed hump. This bloke was from the white line in the road centre to the gravel edge, no we didnít stop to take a pic, it had a mean look in itís eye as we went past on the other side of the road.

Next stop was in Richmond for fuel. Continuing on the scenery changes over every rise from red dirt to pale, trees to no trees, rock formations pop up from nowhere. It really is a harsh environment if you are not well prepared. At last the camelbaks were getting some use, with us drinking 1.5 ltrs of water between fuel stops.

Next stop was at Julia Creek for fuel, after a short spell we continued on to Cloncurry for fuel and a drink, also got a T shirt for the kids. It's here we met a bloke and his missus each on Harleys who were going to Broome, but taking longer to do it than us. So we rode with a comfortable distance between the jappas and hogs so as not to cause any embarassment to either marque all the way to the Isa. We fuelled up and got more water, gee it's starting to heat up a bit now. Water here is $2.50 a bottle. We leave the Isa with it's grey dust coating and head for Camooweal, where we fuel up again and this time put 5ltrs in the jerry's just in case it's required, and water here is $3.50 a bottle, that cartage is a killer.

We leave Camooweal and head for Barkly Homestead, which is our overnight destination at a reasonable clip. Well we feel 130ks is reasonable out here as do most other road users apparently. About 30km away from Barkly, Alfs hungry bike expires from a lack of fuel and mine follows suit about 15km later. We added the contents of the jerrys and trundled into Barkly Homestead about half an hour before dark. We fuelled the bikes, jerrys and paid for our camp site $8.00 a night each.

After showering and setting up the tents we spy a Victorian number plate and wander over to see where theyíre from. It turns out to be 3 lassies from Edinburgh Scotland, over here for 12 months of sightseeing. They are getting around in a 1984 Camira named Kev. Well we are mortified that they don't know of the Camira's reputation in Oz, but they assure us the salesman said Camira's are a good car. Trouble is not too many salesmen would travel around Oz in a 1984 Camira I'll bet!!! It seems that Kev's interior light has never worked in the 6 months that Fiona, Zoe, and Karen, who has just joined the others have had him . A blown fuse will do that every time. They were falling over themselves to look through the car at night without a torch. We also changed a tyre for them as they had no idea how!

Time for a feed and a beer, fish and chips $8.50 and $15.20 for 4 cans of VB. I think a slab was $55 or $60.00. Yikes. UDL's were $6.50 a can and one patron was heard loudly voicing his opinion of the establishment. I changed the oil in my bike here as I do every 3,000km.

Day 8.....967.9km

Day 9. We leave Barkly Homestead at daybreak bound for 3-Ways, after a detour into Tennant Creek to buy some shorts as it's warming right up now. The local menswear shop is called Al Bundys, which just happens to be Alf's ICQ name on the net. Get the shorts, a quick raid on the flexiteller and we're off to 3Ways for fuel.

16km past Renner Springs we come across an old EH on the side of the road with the bonnet up. Itís here we first meet Daniel and Natasha who are stuck with a broken fanbelt. Alf volunteers to go back to Renner Springs to get one for them. While he's away we ready the car to fit the new one. When Alf gets back we find the new belt is a bit small, but with a bit of cussing and gentle persuasion it plays the game and goes on.

Dan and Natís friends show up and follow them to Elliott, where we fuel up and refill the jerrys and they get the correct size fanbelt. Water here is $3.30 a bottle. Next fuel stop is the Hi-Way Inn. We leave and travel a few ks down the road and turn off to Daly Waters Pub where we have a couple of beers with Dan and Nat in this great old watering hole. When youíre there ring the bell on the bar for a surprise. After a few pics outside we get ready to leave, but not before Alf gets in the pool fully clothed. Cheap a/c he reckons.

We motor on to Mataranka for our overnight stop. This is a great place to spend a few days just kicking back doing nothing but lazing in the thermal pool, mind the bat shit but!!. Got a feed $6.50 and 4 light beers $12.40 and $7.00 for a tent site. Met up with Geoff and Karen from the Hunter Valley and had a good yarn about nothing in particular. After a really good dust storm and lightning show we got about half an hour of rain.

Day 9.....799.9km

Day10. Up in the morning and straight to the pool for a dip, it feels much warmer this morning, only other person there is a Chinese girl tourist, who asks if we've been to Douglas Hot Springs. As they are further north we decide to stop there. Thanks for the tip. Back at camp Karen and Geoff invite us to have brekky with them we accept, be careful with food in your hands and mouth, as the Whistling Kites are not scared to take it off you in full flight. Scary stuff having those claws and beak whipping past your dial believe me. After saying goodbye to Karen and Geoff we fuel up.

On the last tank full we gave the fat tarts their head and achieved 165kmh flat out. So we sat on 150kmh for 150km,with a fuel economy of 11.92 km/l on my bike and 11.11km/l on Alf's, not too good so we didn't do that again. Water at Mataranka was $3.60 for a 1.5ltr bottle. Next stop was Katherine for fuel and water. A trip into Katherine Gorge is well worth it not that we got to see too much, as with all the gear on the bikes it's a bit hard to keep an eye on it and all the attractions at the same time. We did manage to have a swim for a bit, then it was back on the road.

After leaving Katherine Gorge Alf had an episode with a roadtrain veering on to his side of the road. The driver must have seen the size of his head and swerved back on his half of the road before doing irrepairable damage to his truck. It's a huge head.

Next stop was Douglas Hot Springs and boy are they hot, 65c before it runs in with the cold water, you only have to move 6 feet and you get your arse burnt. After spending a couple of hours soaking out the kinks we left and rode to Douglas Daly Park. You have to turn off the main road to get to the Hot Springs and travel 8ks on red dirt. The road to the park is all bitumen. This place is even more relaxing than Mataranka, more swimming holes and less people. The hosts on duty while we were there were Trevor & Lisa Dunn, who made us feel right at home.

After paying for our site, $6.00 ea we set up the tents and went for a swim in the cool water of the Douglas River. There are several areas in the park which are all good for swimming, including the thermal pool, the Arches, and the natural spa. Dinner that night was fresh Barra, cooked to perfection and well priced at $14.00. We have decided that weather permitting we will be riding in shorts and a t shirt from now until it gets too cold too, as the heat when your fully covered makes it hard to go more than half a day. Not very safe I know but comfortable. Oh I almost forgot, heaps of sunscreen as well.

Day 10.....375.5km

Day 11. Getting up next morning was easy after a good kip, fuelled up, bacon and eggs for brekky then off again. Next stop was at the Litchfield National Park and a swim in the plunge pool at Florence Falls. Again we couldn't stray too far from the bikes and our gear so we didn't see too much here either. Back on the bikes and off to Rum Jungle for fuel and a stop for lunch, which for me was 5 mangos from the dozens which fall off the trees. Much nicer than store bought ones and cheaper too!

After lunch we were off again to Darwin which is our stop for the night. As we pulled up on the Esplanade, Dan and Nat pulled up beside us. At least they had made it. It was here they told us of their friends near miss, while scooting along at 160kmh in their Camry a rear tyre blew, and girlie who was driving at the time locked everything up and proceeded to do 360s down the road, also flat spotting the other 3 tyres. They limped into Darwin shaken but ok.

We booked into the Gecko Lodge backpackers and lazed by the pool all afternoon, after sending boxes full of gear we werenít using home. Jesus Christ it's hot and muggy, the sweat just pouring off us. I got a new rear tyre on my bike at the local Harley dealers. On inquiring how much weight was required to balance the wheel, I was informed that 'we never balance rears' Strange, there must be no limit to vibes on Harleys.

Day 11.....315.5km

Day 12. Leaving Darwin at 7.00am we fuel up and head off to Adelaide River for brekky and a look at the Buffalo that Hoges 'hypnotised' in Croc Dundee. At least we were told it was that one. Next stop is Katherine for fuel, film, water, and the 12,000km service on my bike. It's HOT damn HOT. Us poor Victorians are feeling the heat, especially when standing around. We find itís better to be moving and getting a bit of air circulating.

On leaving Katherine we stop under a tree to fill our camelbaks with cold water, and see an aboriginal chap standing motionless in the middle of a park area, with his head down. Itís 40 odd degrees and for half an hour he doesn't move. As we are putting our helmets on to leave he takes 3 steps forward and stops again. If anyone knows what he was doing I'd love to know.

Next stop is Victoria River for fuel and water. Itís hotter here than in Katherine so we sit for a while under the verandah and have a cool sports drink. All too soon we head out on the road for Timber Creek which is our next fuel stop. Between Victoria River and Timber Creek it is the hottest we've been yet. So in one of the few creeks that have water in them, we stop and get in fully clothed one at a time, with one of us standing on the bridge looking for floating logs with teeth, and then back on the bikes. At least we stayed cool for about 50 km.

While fuelling up at Timber Creek we meet Charlie and Sarah who are heading the same way as us but in a SWB Landcruiser. They've just heard that you can't take fruit and vegies into W.A from the N.T and have got to dispose of a huge watermelon and vegies they were going to have for tea that night. We hatch a plan to meet up with them in the rest area 50 mtrs from the border and at least eat the watermelon. Boy it tasted great, and I usually won't go near them.

We go through the border and head for Lake Argyle. Wow what a drive in to this huge lake. The scenery is just magnificent, It took me nearly an hour to do the 35km in there as I took a heap of photos. Helmet on, off, on, off bugger this leave it off, I'll risk a fine for not wearing a lid.

Lake Argyle is the highlight of the trip for me so far the whole place is just awesome. Great swimming, the water is much warmer than it looks, all the colors, rock formations everything is just amazing. We fuel up again and pay our camp fee, then pick a spot to put the tents. Charlie and Sarah roll up about 15 mins after us, as they left the border they got a puncture. We sit and yak for a while then Alf and I decide to go and get a meal at the bar, but Sarah insists that we eat with them. We end up having a delicious bacon and vegetable pasta. How did those vegieís get behind the side cover, must have snuck in there while we were demolishing the melon.

After tea we wandered over to the pool area, where there was a bus full of aboriginal kids practicing for a school festival at Kununurra. Gee those kids have got good rhythm on drums. After a few sherbets we return to our camp and just sit and talk about what we have seen so far. We also meet Hussar and Melissa who are doing 2 weeks up through the centre and back. By now itís 1.30 am and time for bed.

Day 12.....837.6km

Day13. Up bright and early for a shower then brekky, after that we pack up and go down to the dam wall for a look, and to get a few pics. While there we see a Freshwater Croc about 11ft long in the Ord River, the croc is about 20mtrs from where Hussar is fishing but he is unaware of this. As I go down to tell him he catches a Black Bream of about 1.5kg, then moves back up the bank about 10 mtrs. We go down to the jetty and decide to have a swim before leaving this lasts about 3 hours, as we start catching Angler fish and Catfish on bread and Mr.Twisters. It's all too easy but we must move on as itís 12.15 pm. After saying farewell to Charlie and Sarah we head off again.

Our next stop is Warmun for fuel and more water. We used the contents of the jerrys as its nearly 300km from Lake Argyle to here. Our next stop is Halls Creek and as we are pulling into town about 40 locals are emerging from under a bridge and, wandering , with wandering not being the best word to describe their progress, back into town. From all the cans lining the roadside I reckon it must be a good place to partake in a few ales. All the way into town there are people sitting under any bit of shade to escape the heat, they make the base of each tree look like Flowerbeds with all their different color clothing.

We fuel up and have a drink, then head off to Fitzroy Crossing. It gets dark when are about 100km from there so we decide to be daring and remove our helmets. It's a great feeling to have cool air flowing over your sweaty head, but not a really smart thing to do. We pull into Fitzroy Crossing and fuel up, and also get some eats and call the spouses. We get talking to a local bloke who is burning off around the area, and ask him if there are any parking areas where we can sleep for the night. He tells us the best one is about 80km up the road. We decide this is where we will stay the night, so off we go.

About 30km out from Fitzroy Crossing an animal bolts across the road, and I think to myself that it looked like a cat, only thing it was the size of a greyhound. Ahh itís been a long day and you are seeing things. We pull into the parking bay which is 87km from town and my first move is to take the swag off the bike and lay it on the table, which has a roof over it, there is another one about 20 mtrs away where Alf can put his. Iím rooted so I sack out straight away, but Alf wants to change the oil and filter on his bike. The oil is being emptied into a container not dumped on the ground so no getting on our backs please.

As Iím trying to get to sleep I hear faint mewing sounds but think it's birds or something, that and Alf cussing about not being able to get a stinking hot oil filter off his bike. I tell him to leave it till the morning, but he wants to do it now.

Iím sort of asleep and I hear piss off you stinking scabby bastard. Next thing I know Alf is shaking me awake saying, there's no way known I'm sleeping on these benches. I sit up and ask him why and he says, 'I was changing the oil when I heard a noise behind me, so I shone the torch and there's 2 cats, one normal size and one about 2ft high and 3ft long, standing 10-15 ft away looking at me. The hair on the back of me neck stood up and I looked around and found a bit of rusty steel, shone the torch at them and pelted it. It landed about 6 feet in front of them and 6 feet to the side kicked up a heap of dust and the smaller one pissed off. Do you know what the big bastard did? The prick looked at me and just hissed, it never even flinched, then every hair from my arsehole to the top of my head stood up, I reckon I must have looked like Bart Simpson. So then I picked up a hand full of gravel and give him that in the head and it does a runner'. As we are discussing where we are going to sleep the torch picks up a set of eyes in a tree, about 15ft from where we are standing. So Alf picks up a handful of gravel and tosses it into the tree, nothing, another handful and this time there is some action, straight down the tree trunk and directly at Alf, up goes the hair again but the moggie turns about 2ft away and bolts for the bush.

After a brief discussion itís decided that we BRAVE BIKIES will sleep on the roof over the table. After tossing swags and gear up, itís time for us to clamber up and bed down, which is a bit of a challenge as the roof is swaying from side to side with every movement. We finally get the swags unrolled and into them, and drift off to a rocky sleep.

Day 13.....818.1km

Day 14. We leave the cats to their parking bay at first light and head off to Willare Roadhouse, which is our first fuel stop, we also get brekky and more water as we are still drinking 1.5ltrs between most fuel stops. The camelbaks have turned out to be a great investment as we don't have to stop to have a drink every 50-60km in the heat, which saves a lot of time.

Next stop is Broome and the first impression is, 'we must be in the poor end of town' but it all turns out to be the same. I was expecting gutters, nature strips, you know the town sort of stuff, not wide gravel edges on the streets. We go to a van park to see about a site, but the shrew on duty either hates bikes, or has had a bad hair day, as she's not very polite or helpful. So we go and find Roebuck Bay backpackers hostel and book in there. Here the staff members are much friendlier and Kylie the manager cheerfully takes our cash and shows us to our room. After putting our gear away we step outside and a girl walks up to me and asks if I can spare $2.00 so she can buy milk for her two kids, going on to say that she and her hubby have spent the last of their cash on accommodation. So I give $2.00 and Alf and I head for the pool. We spend most of the day lazing by the pool, and guess what, so does Miss No Cash and her, shall we say minder, who sit and scoff beer and fags all arvo, didn't see the kids with any milk though. I think she may entertain Gentleman friends as she disappears at various times with uncles during the course of the day. Broome turns out to be a very friendly place, the people are so unhurried and unfussed it takes a while to adjust. While sitting around the pool we meet Rob and Hannah who are travelling around in standard Backpacker Transport, $1000.00 XE Fords. Hannah also teaches Alf some Dutch pickup lines what for I donít know. We also meet Ronnie a German Engineer touring the country on a Yamaha Tenere with a 35ltr fuel tank, he has spent the last 2 weeks in Broome thanks to a broken leg he got while coming out of the Bungle Bungles. Tragic to have to do your re-hab in a pool in Broome buddy!

Alf scores another eyeful of hooters as a new arrival dives in and turns on her back, only to find that the neck strap on her bikini top has come undone and the hooies are in public view. This she fixes with help from her fella who is having trouble keeping a straight face. That night we have pizza for tea, and go to the pub. We are asked to join in a Perfect Match competition, but decline as our perfect matches are at home with the kids, so after a couple of drinks itís off to fuel up the bikes and then to bed.

Before bedding down I got the key to the front gate of the Backpackers hostel so we could leave early, thanks again Kylie for trusting us with the only key you had.

Day 14.....327.9km

Day 15. We are up early and on our way at 5.30am, after leaving the key in an agreed place. Our first stop today will be Sandfire Roadhouse. About 60km down the road 2 people are sitting on the side of the road, with their pushies parked against a sign, I give them a wave on the way past and then look in the mirror and see them waving and jumping around. I turn around and go back to see if they're ok. They are ok, they just wanted to talk to someone as they hadnít for a few days. It turns out they are a French couple who are riding around Oz in 8 months, better them than me. I also see why they were sitting down, they are playing chess on a board about 4î in size. After chatting for 5 mins I wish them good luck and continue towards Sandfire.

I run the main tank dry of itís 17 ltrs at 293.8km, and add the contents of the jerry to continue to Sandfire which is a further 25ks away. After refuelling bikes and jerrys we continue on to Pardoo Roadhouse which is our next stop for fuel and a roll of film, all I can say is Iím glad the bike runs on petrol and not film. Prices are scary out here, some make a profit and some make a killing.

We continue on to Port Hedland for fuel and lunch, I also get 4ltrs of oil for my next oil change, which will be in the next couple of days. While we are in Port Hedland we get some pics of the old Locos and Earthmoving equipment that is located next to the Shell servo. Leaving Port Hedland we are 34ks out of town when we come across Mark and Melissa who have run out of fuel on their FZR1000.They have been stuck on the side of the road for 30mins and no one gave them a hand. Just because we ride bikes we must be bad in some peoples eyes. Luckily we were still carrying fuel in the jerrys, so they bought mine and we talked for a few minutes and then continued on to our next stop at Roebourne.

While filling the tanks 6-8 local aboriginal kids start to give us 20 questions about the mudderbikes. They are looking at themselves in the sidecovers and headlight cover and getting a good laugh out of the way it makes them look. One young fella looked and looked for a kick start lever until it got the better of him and he asked how we started them. We told him push button but he didn't believe us till we showed him. They were all sitting on their pushies when I asked if they would like their picture taken on the Nomad's. Well I've never seen so many pushies hit the deck so quickly or so many kids try to fit on 2 bikes at the same time. After we got them to sit on them one by one they all got a pic taken, which I am having copies made of and sending to the B.P servo in Roebourne, so the kids can get a copy each.

We leave the kids and continue on to our overnight stop at Fortescue River Roadhouse. We arrived about an hour before dark and got our tent site and fuel, and also get some Tshirts for the kids. It cost $5.00 for the tent site here right next to the showers. After having a well earned shower we went and got a feed and a few drinks then hit the sack, doing heaps of ks a day sure does make you tired. If you ever stay here DON'T park on the grass. If you do beware, the lady who runs the place does not like it. It would be much easier if she put up a sign instead of spitting the dummy at customers.

Day 15.....940.7km

Day 16. Up at 5.00am and on our way at 5.30 our first stop is at Nanutarra for fuel and brekky, then straight on to our next stop at Minilya, for fuel, film and a drink. The fuel economy on the bikes is taking a dive as we have been pushing into about a 25-30 knot head wind since we left Broome, and it's a hot wind as well. After all the grizzling about rain from Batemans Bay to Townsville it would be a pleasure now just to have it bucket down for 5 minutes.

After leaving Minilya our next stop is Carnarvon for fuel and more water. We get a look at the huge satellite dish on our way out of town, apparently Carnarvon has the clearest skies on the West Coast, and that's why the dish was put here. Our next stop is at the Overlander Roadhouse for fuel, T shirts and a drink. While we're here a guy on a CX 500 pulls up and tells us that somewhere between Perth and Geraldton, someone knocked all his gear off the bike while he was paying for his fuel. Mobile Phone clothes the lot. He had to go to an Op shop to get stuff to wear so he could continue his trip. There are some pricks about hey!

We leave him and continue on to our next stop which is Northampton, we also get changed into warm clothes again as itís now cooled down a lot, so itís into jeans and on with the leather jackets after a week of shorts and T shirts. We fuel up and head off immediately for Geraldton, which is our overnight stop. We arrive just before the office closes and pay for our site $6.00 then set up our tents. We decide that tonight is K.F.C night and Alf goes to collect it while I have a shower and do our washing.

It's here that I see a great sunset with the sky all red and orange it looked awesome out over the bay. On the site next to us is Glenn from Melbourne, he has been touring in his Kombi for 6 mths and hopes to be back home by Christmas, and we also meet Kym a bloke from N.Z originally but living in Perth now. After tea we boot off to bed as today we did a big one and weíre feeling a bit secondhand, from too many long days and not much time off the bikes.

Day 16.....1003.1km

Day 17. Today we only have to travel to Perth so we don't hurry in the morning and leave at about 9.30am, our first stop is at Dongara and we stop only for fuel and then continue on towards Perth. The scenery here is similar to at home, but the roadside shrubbery is much prettier here with all the natives flowering at this time of year. Our next stop is Badginarra for fuel and a late lunch. While eating it decides to rain,typical a day or two too late for us. We finish lunch and don the wet weather gear and head off again.

Next stop is Herne Hill for fuel and to take the wets off as it has stopped raining. Its here I give Fred a call to get directions to his place as that's where I'm staying for the next 2 days. Alf is going to Mandurah and Bunbury to see friends, we get directions and head off to Fred's place. We arrive at 4.00pm, and his partner Gayle meets us out the front and we go in for a cuppa. Fred, real name Brad, is a mate from primary school and footy, he has been in W.A since 1980 and the last time I had seen him was at his mum's funeral 12 years ago, so it's really good to catch up with him again. I change the oil in the bike here.

While in Perth I had also hoped to catch up with some other friends Rat (Brian) and Rod, but unfortunately this didn't happen, I spoke to both on the phone but didn't get to see them. Maybe next trip. Fred notices that I have an Indian cap on and off we go to his shed where he has a 1944 Chief that he is restoring and rides when he gets time.

In the garden shed is a Z1R Mk11, which is original except for the exhaust. I wasn't sure if he was into bikes but it's good to see that he's as keen on them as I am. That night we drink near on a slab while catching up on what's happened in our lives over the years, and hit the sack at about 1.00 am.

Day 17.....374.3km

Day 18. Up early, its hard to sleep in after so many early starts, Gayle and Darcy, their young bloke who is 6 mths old are up already so we sit and have brekky. That kid just never stops smiling all the time. Gayle asks if I want to go and have a look at the Marina, which sounds like a good idea so off we go.

The weather is not very good with rain squalls and wind all around the Perth area. We stop and have lunch at the Marina in the food hall. Outside we try and walk around the Marina but it starts raining heavier so we give up and go home. When Fred gets home from work we go to the Local for a few ales before tea. After tea I find out that Gayle's best friend Kerry, is the same Kerry that my missus Karen is friends with now in Newborough. After a few beers we hit the sack as Fred has work in the morning.

Day 18.....0.00km

Day 19. Up early again, and today we go to Kings Park, which is a good spot to look over Perth City and the Swan River, we get lunch up here and take the coast road back home. Alf calls me on the mobile and asks for me to meet him in Mandurah that night. I wait for Fred to get home from work then we say our goodbyes and promise to keep in touch more often.

I leave for Mandurah at 4.45pm and take the coast road as the freeway is at a standstill. I arrive at Shari's mum's place in Halls Head at 6.30pm. We have tea here and then go to the local Tavern for a few drinks. After we get home we talk for a while, and Alf decides to meet Shari's hubby at 11.30 the next day, as he has just spent a month working in a gold mine in the desert. I decide to go to Esperance instead and will meet Alf in Norseman that night.

Day 19.....80.6km

Day 20. Up early and away at 6.15 my first stop is Lake Clifton for fuel. Next stop Bunbury and it starts raining heavily, the weather is coming from the south but it looks clearer to the east so I pick up a local map and decide to go to Esperance via an inland route. I turn back towards Perth and then take the Collie exit. This road takes you through Collie, Darkan a fuel stop, Wagin, Lake Grace another fuel stop, Newdegate, Lake King, Ravensthorpe another fuel stop, then into Esperance.

It's not a bad ride this way and you get to see power stations, coal mines, and some nice scenery as well, I go to the foreshore at Esperance to take some pics, but it's a bit overcast so I don't take too many. Alf rings me here and asks me to get a Tshirt for his wife Sharon. He has not long left Perth as he decided to get a new rear tyre fitted as the other one was getting down a bit, and not too many places on the Nullarbor are likely to have 150/80/16 tyres on hand.

Alf would like to thank a few people here. Firstly, Ray Buck at Bunbury Kawasaki for fixing a rattle in his motor. Which turned out to be a loose cam chain tensioner bolt. This Ray did for free, thanks again Ray. Secondly Craig and Mick at Tyres for Bikes in Victoria Park, who fitted the tyre at short notice and at a great price. If you are in the area patronize these shops as they are all about customer service and great prices.

After getting the Tshirts, I make tracks for Norseman. When I arrive at 6.30pm I give Alf a call on his mobile and he is at Southern Cross, and still has about 4 hours ahead of him. I pay for our sites and fuel up. After setting up the tent and having a shower it's time to eat, then hit the sack. Alf arrives at 11.00pm and is bedded down by 11.10pm.

Day20.....1046.0km

Day 21. Up early and we're off again after declining to stay for the Norseman Races. They are only held once a year, but we have spent more than we intended and going to the neddies would only make a bigger hole in the funds.

Our first stop for fuel is at Balladonia Roadhouse. After filling the bike at $1.13.9c per litre I ask the girl at the counter why the fuel here is 8c per litre dearer than we have paid at Roadhouses in much more remote areas of the country. She says that they have to get out of here and have holidays, to which I comment, 'at this price you must have good holidays then'. Another lady comes out and starts getting aggro and saying that we don't set the price B.P does. That's ok, I was just making an observation after travelling around is all. I picked up from the freezer an icypole that at home costs 50c and asked how much? To which she replied $1.50, so I put it back and said B.P must set the price on them as well. The poor girls got flustered I think cos I handed over a $20.00 note to pay for $14.00 of fuel and they gave me $16.00 change. Did I own up..... Nope if they had taken the comments as they were meant I would have, but instead they got all narky so I kept my winnings. Who needs the horse races?

We left the sad sacks and headed to our next stop at Madura Roadhouse. The view from Madura Pass is very impressive as ground just drops away towards the coast. After refueling and getting back into shorts and t shirts as it is heated up again, we head off to our next stop which is Eucla, for a few pics then on to Border Village for fuel and water.

At the WA-SA border there heaps of coppers [ie police] from both states doing RWCs, checking for guns, drugs, dangerous goods, hmmmmmm, I wonder if they may be after a bloke on a big green bike who took off with too much change, but fortunately they're not. We are stopped, license checked, asked why we are in the area, if we have any guns etc, and have video and photos taken of us from a discreet distance. We ask what is going on, and are told that the biker trouble in Adelaide has a bit to do with it. Another chap tells us later that the Balladonia Roadhouse was trashed earlier on by some outlaw gang members. Now I realize why the girls were aggro at me. I wondered later on if there was some old guy at the Roadhouse with a twitchy trigger finger lurking with a shotty pointed at me.

We leave Border Village and head off to find some places along the Bight to get some pics. We stop at 2 places. At the second stop we get a bonus, a female Southern Right Whale and her calf are directly underneath us and only 50mtrs offshore, so we sit and watch them for about 30mins and then head off again. Next stop is the Nullabor Roadhouse for fuel and a drink. We leave there and stop at Yalata for fuel and to camp but decide to continue on to Nundroo for the night.

We arrive at 7.30pm and pay for a bed in the backpackers room $10.00 each. We shower then order a meal in the dining room, the food here turns out to be the best Roadhouse food on the whole trip, good servings, cheap and delicious, and a bottomless coffee cup as well. Thanks Pat your service and friendliness was excellent. After tea we meet Roy, a retired ship's captain from Sydney who is in the Backpackers room with us, he is travelling around in his Range Rover. While we are sitting out the front a bloke pulls up in a Landcruiser ute and gets out with his pet baby wombat, so we get a pic of them both. We have done another long day so we are in the swags fairly early and off to sleep

Day 21.....1046.1km

Day 22. We are up and on the road at 4.30 am as we want to make Mt. Gambier today if we can, our first stop is Ceduna for fuel and a quick brekky then off again. Our next fuel stop is Kyancutta, then Kimba and Pt Augusta for a Hungry Jacks Woppa for lunch and fuel. Next stop is Snowtown scene of the 11 bank murders. We put our warm clothes back on now as itís cooling down rapidly. We reach Adelaide at about 4.15pm and, look forward to riding around a few decent corners, which we havenít had since Queensland.

Roadwork and fog spoil the ride up to the Eagle on the Hill, so itís not very enjoyable but still good enough to remove some metal from the fat tarts undercarriages, and put a smile on our faces. We fuel up at the Shell Servo on the left and continue on, our next stop is Tailem Bend for fuel and as its nearing dark now we decide to go on to Keith for the night. We get tea at the local fish and chip shop and then go to the BP Roadhouse and rent a patch of grass for the night for $5.00ea. Alf has a shower and I decide to have one in the morning as we have had a big day today and I just want to sleep.

Day 22.....1147.0km

Day 23. We get up and have brekky at the Keith Roadhouse, then hit road again. Our first stop is Mt Gambier for fuel, film and batteries for the cameras. Mt.Gambier is a nice place with a lot of heritage buildings that are worth a look at. We continue on and call in to see Daryl a mate in Portland. He's at work so we get directions and find our way to Prince Engineering. After a coffee and a yak about the trip we say 'see ya' and head off to Warrnambool for our next fuel stop.

Leaving Warrnambool we travel through Port Fairy, and Timboon, then onto the Western Underground Gas Storage Facility at Iona near Port Campbell. I worked here for 16 weeks and wanted to see how much had been done since I had finished. After taking a few pics we went and had a counter lunch at the Port Campbell Pub. The pub is owned by Thommo, who made us welcome and even shouted me a beer. I was a regular at the pub for the duration of the job. I also called in to the Southern Ocean Motel where I stayed for 11 weeks, but missed seeing Tom the manager. We leave Port Campbell and it's straight on to the Great Ocean Road. We had a ball on this renowned bike road especially after Otway, where the road winds itself right along the coastline for most of the way. The view along this bit of coastline is the best coastal view that we saw on the trip.

Passing through the towns of the G.O.R, sorry I don't remember all the names, but Apollo Bay, Lorne etc are all great little towns. We stopped in Apollo Bay for fuel and then continued on to Belmont where I stayed With Don and Kylie, more friends from Newborough for the night, and Alf continued on to Sale after stopping in for a cuppa. It wasn't too long ago that I'd seen Don and Kylie as I used to drop in on my way home from Pt Campbell. After tea and a few beers we talked about the trip and Don's recent operation, but I was still a bit rooted from the last few big days so was not really good company as I kept nodding off.

Day 23.....712.9km

Day 24. Up at 8.00 am for a shower, brekky, and off home at 9.30 after saying goodbye to Don, Kylie and their kids. It starts raining 5mins before I start the bike and stops about 10km down the road. At the Lara turnoff it starts pissing down so I stop and put on the wets, it stops at the Laverton turnoff then starts again on the entrance to the West Gate Bridge. I leave the wets on and get rain on and off all the way home. I pulled into my driveway at 12.00 and was greeted by Karen and Nikki my 5 year old who was sick and having a day off school.

Day 24.....215.7km

-------------Summary--------------

We would like to thank our wives and kids for allowing us to go with only a month's notice, and all our friends who put us up on the trip. Thank you all...

Would we do it again---Yes, but take more time

Did we get a sore butt---Yes, but only for 5 days

Did the bikes give any trouble---No, none at all

Stand out place---Lake Argyle

Total fuel cost for Gary--$844.67

Total litres used for Gary---929.17

Total distance traveled---14820km

Fuel consumption average---15.95km/l

Best fuel consumption---19.59km/l

Worst fuel consumption---11.92km/l

Total fuel cost for Al---$886.78

Total litres used for Al---989.66

Total distance traveled---15225.5

Fuel consumption average---15.38km/l

Best fuel consumption---18.92km/l

Worst fuel consumption---11.11km/l

Accommodation Costs---$136.50 each

Dearest Fuel Belladonna Roadhouse $1.13.9cpl

Cheapest Fuel Eagle Farm 71.9cpl

Distances between our fuel stops.

Newborough---Sale 80.3km

Sale---Lakes Entrance 105.0

Lakes Entrance---Eden 239.4

Eden---Batemans Bay 198.4

Batemans Bay---Heathcote 238.1

Heathcote---Gosford 132.9

Gosford---Taree 239.5

Taree---Coffs Harbour 232.6

Coffs Harbour---Ballina 219.0

Ballina---Eagle Farm 209.6

Eagle Farm---Gympie 193.4

Gympie---GinGin 203.9

GinGin---Boyne Island 190.8

Boyne Island---Tooloomba 269.8

Tooloomba---Ibilbie 123.0

Ibilbie---Proserpine 197.0

Proserpine---Ayr 216.6

Ayr---Townsville 104.0

Townsville---Charters Towers 145.4

Charters Towers---Hughenden 244.7

Hughenden---Richmond 115.4

Richmond---Julia Creek 148.7

Julia Creek---Cloncurry 135.3

Cloncurry---Mt Isa 121.9

Mt Isa---Camooweal 188.3

Camooweal--- Barkly Homestead 258.3

Barkly Homestead---3 Ways 235.1

3 Ways---Elliott 228.0

Elliott---Hi Way Inn 143.8

Hi Way Inn---Mataranka 192.4

Mataranka---Katherine 166.4

Katherine---Douglas Daly Park 209.1

Katherine---Rum Jungle 221.5

Rum Jungle---Darwin 121.4

Darwin---Adelaide River 100.2

Adelaide River---Katherine 201.6

Katherine---Victoria River 193.1

Victoria River---Timber Creek 89.5

Timber Creek--- Lake Argyle 225.8

Lake Argyle---Warmun 282.3

Warmun---Halls Creek 161.2

Halls Creek---Fitzroy Crossing 287.4

Fitzroy Crossing---Willare 229.1

Willare---Broome 164.8

Broome---Sandfire Roadhouse 319.5

Sandfire Roadhouse---Pardoo 138.0

Pardoo---Pt Hedland 150.2

Pt Hedland---Roebourne 198.0

Roebourne---Fortescue River 135.0

Fortescue River---Nanutarra 161.6

Nanutarra---Minilya 226.1

Minilya---Carnarvon 132.3

Carnarvon---Overlander 194.9

Overlander---Northampton 225.7

Northampton---Dangare 124.0

Dangare---Badginarra 153.6

Badginarra---Herne Hill 179.0

Herne Hill---Lake Clifton 177.9

Lake Clifton---Darkan 188.5

Darkan---Lake Grace 177.2

Lake Grace---Ravensthorpe 183.4

Ravensthorpe---Esperance 189.0

Esperance---Norseman 205.0

Norseman---Belladonna 189.5

Belladonna---Madura 335.0

Madura---Border Village 193.4

Border Village---Nullabor 185.9

Nullabor---Yalata 91.7

Yalata---Ceduna 200.7

Ceduna---Kyancutta 222.5

Kyancutta---Kimba 89.5

Kimba---Pt Augusta 151.9

Pt Augusta---Snowtown 159.7

Snowtown---Eagle on the hill 158.4

Eagle on the Hill--- Tailem Bend 85.3

Tailem Bend---Keith 130.0

Keith--- Mt Gambier 206.8

Mt Gambier---Warrnambool 220.4

Warrnambool---Apollo Bay 176.7

Apollo Bay--- Belmont 107.5

Belmont---Newborough 215.6

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