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The original low level
crossing at Fitzroy Crossing
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Fitzroy
Crossing (including Noonkanbah, Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge)
Fascinating destination in the wilds of the
Kimberley
Located 2686 km north of Perth, 258 km from Derby and 110
metres above sea level, Fitzroy Crossing is one of those places which
sprung up for a single very good reason. It was a suitable place to
cross the huge Fitzroy River which, during the wet season, was capable
of stranding travellers for weeks. Once a decent bridge was built the
town's raison d'etre vanished. It is now a small, predominantly
Aboriginal settlement, on the banks of the Fitzroy River with very
little to commend it to the visitor apart from the beautiful Geikie
Gorge which lies 15 km to the north of the town and the unusual Tunnel
Creek and Windjana Gorge which lie 63 km and 95 km, respectively, from
the town on the alternative Derby-Fitzroy Road.
The Fitzroy River was first explored and named after
Captain Robert Fitzroy (a former commander of the HMS Beagle) by
Captain Stokes in 1838. However its upper reaches weren't explored
until Alexander Forrest travelled through the area in 1879. Forrest's
reports on the pastoral potential of the area resulted in Solomon
Emanuel (a grazier and banker from Goulburn, NSW) founding the Gogo
station 20 km downstream from the present day site of Fitzroy Crossing.
The local Aborigines resisted incursions from
European pastoralists and the area around Fitzroy Crossing was the
subject of some particularly bloody battles including one which
resulted in the Aborigines retreating into Geikie Gorge followed by
posses of police.
Like so many of the towns in the Kimberley, Fitzroy
Crossing sprawls. Without an identifiable town centre, and with some
kilometres separating the new highway from the old river crossing, the
town is more like a series of loosely connected small settlements that
a single community.
The Fitzroy Crossing region is full of interesting
stories but there is perhaps none more ironic and telling that the
battle over Noonkanbah Station southwest of the town. In 1979-80 local
Aborigines gained control of the station but were almost immediately
faced with a claim for mining rights on the property. They opposed a
request by Amex to search for oil and the government, instead of
respecting the rights of the new owners, brought police into the area
to ensure a safe passage for drilling equipment. The issue was widely
publicised as an example of the government's refusal to respect
Aboriginal lands. The result: Amex wasted a lot of money and the
government were made to look very silly. The rigs found that there was
no oil in the area.
Things to see:
Crossing Inn
Undoubtedly the town's most famous building is the old
Crossing Inn (turn off the Highway near the roadhouse and continue down
Forrest Street before turning right at Sandford Street - a dirt road)
which, in spite of the fact that it is well distanced from the banks of
the river, has still been the subject of numerous floods. In the wet
the river has been known to rise over 10 metres and to spread out from
its banks for a distance of up to 15 km.
The Crossing Inn was originally built by Joseph Blythe in
the 1890s as a store and pub for passing stockmen, prospectors and
bullock team drivers.
Old Fitzroy Crossing Towns
A few kilometres out of town (on the Geikie Gorge Road)
is the old Fitzroy Crossing townsite which is now no more than a few
disused buildings. Nearby is the old low level crossing of the river
which, while serviceable in the 'dry', obviously had limited use in the
wet season.
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Geikie Gorge where you can
swim with crocodiles
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Geikie
Gorge National Park
Fitzroy Crossing's premier attraction in Geikie Gorge
National Park. Lying 18 km north east of the town it was named after
Sir Archibald Geikie (a noted British geologist) by Edward Hardman who
travelled through the Kimberley region in 1883.
Geikie Gorge, Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge are all
part of an ancient 'barrier reef' which developed during the Devonian
Period about 350 million years ago. It is estimated that the reef,
which started to the east of Kununurra and swept around in a huge arc
to the north of the Kimberleys before crossing the current land mass
near Derby and becoming exposed to the south and north of Fitzroy
Crossing, was 20 km wide and over 1000 km long. The waters of the
Lennard and Fitzroy Rivers have cut through these ancient reefs
exposing them and forming beautiful gorges.
Geikie Gorge abounds in wildlife which includes the
harmless Johnson crocodile as well as Leichhardt's sawfish and
Coach-whip stingrays whose saltwater ancestors swam up the Fitzroy
River millions of years ago. The gorge has good camping facilities.
Swimming and bushwalking are catered for.
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The Nature Trail at Geikie Gorge
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Tunnel
Creek and Windjana Gorge
It is 63 km to Tunnel Creek and 95 km to Windjana Gorge
from the main Derby-Fitzroy Crossing Road. Tunnel Creek is a unique
formation created by waters from the creek cutting a 750 metre tunnel
through the ancient reef. The tunnel is 15 metres wide and up to 12
metres high and offers visitors an excellent opportunity to see the
ancient 'barrier reef' from an ideal vantage point.
There is a 3.5 km walking trail at Windjana Gorge which
allows visitors to experience the beauty of the gorge.
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Tourist Information
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Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau
Flynn Dve
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5355
Facsimile: (08) 9191 5085
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Motels
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Fitzroy River Lodge Motel/Hotel
102 Great Northern Hwy
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5141
Rating: ***
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The Crossing Motor Inn Motel/Hotel
Skuthorp Rd
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5080
Facsimile: (08) 9191 5208
Rating: *
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Caravan Parks
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Tarunda Caravan Park
Forrest St
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5330
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Fitzroy River Lodge Caravan Park
Great Northern Hwy
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5141
Email: (08) 9191 5142
Rating: ***
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Restaurants
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Fitzroy River Lodge Motel/Hotel
102 Great Northern Hwy
Fitzroy Crossing
WA
6765
Telephone: (08) 9191 5141
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