Twilight Bay near Esperance

Esperance (including Israelite Bay)
Intensely beautiful town with some of the most stunning coastal scenery in Australia
For what it is worth I would suggest that the drive from Esperance west along Twilight Beach Road past West Beach, Chapman's Point, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Fourth Beach and Twilight Beach is the most beautiful stretch of coastline I have seen anywhere in Australia. The impossibly white sands, the gently rounded granite cliffs, and the ocean changing from aquamarine near the shore to a deep blue out near the islands of the Archipelago of the Recherche is a combination of natural beauties which make Esperance one of the true wonders of the Australian coastline.

The sand dunes, pushed to fantastic heights by the unforgiving 'Esperance Doctor', are 50-60 metres high. They are so white and so battered by the winds of the Southern Ocean that there are places on the road where the sand has drifted across the road like snow.

Below the road the white sands of the beaches and small bays are edged by smooth and dramatic rocks and glorious displays of wildflowers. This is one of those areas where the beauty is so overwhelming that it takes the breath away. Located 721 km south-east of Perth, Esperance is increasing in popularity as travellers begin to realise its unique charms.

The first Europeans into the area were the Dutch aboard the Gulde Zeepaard who sailed across the Great Australian Bight in 1627. A chart of the southern coast of Australia printed in Holland in 1628 includes the islands off Esperance. It is therefore reasonable to assume that Pieter Nuyts and the crew of the Gulde Zeepaard sailed through the islands during their voyage.

It is certain that the coast was visited by other Dutch sailors, and probably sealers and whalers, in the 165 years which passed between 1627 and 1792 but the next important visitors were Captain Bruni d'Entrecasteaux commanding Le Recherche and Captain Huon de Kermandec of L'Esperance who were searching the Australian waters for the missing explorer La Perouse while charting the coastline and exploring the new continent.

Forced to seek protection from a storm the two vessels sheltered on the lee side of Observatory Island and that night d'Entrecasteaux wrote in his journal 'I decided to give the harbour the name of Esperance Bay, that of the first frigate to enter it.' A translation of Esperance from the French would mean something like "hope, with confidence and faith in the future".

There is a monument to the discovery and naming of the area at Observatory Point which is beyond Twilight Bay in Twilight Beach Road west of the town.

The next explorer to visit the area was Matthew Flinders who arrived in the area on 8 January 1802 and stayed until 17 January, exploring the islands and the mainland and naming Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay.

In the 1820s and 1830s the harbours and bays around Esperance were commonly used by sealers and whalers who lived a primitive and brutal life mistreating the local Aborigines, fighting with each other, living in primitive huts and surviving on a diet of seal meat and supplies they picked up at infrequent intervals from the colony at Albany.

The next explorer into the area was Edward John Eyre who, exhausted from his journey across the Great Australian Bight, reached Rossiter Bay (now part of Cape Le Grand National Park to the east of Esperance) in June 1841. Eyre's description of his arrival at the bay is one of sheer elation.

'In a short time I arrived upon the summit of a rocky cliff, opposite to a fine large barque lying at anchor in a well sheltered bay (which I subsequently named Rossiter Bay, after the captain of the whaler) immediately east of Lucky Bay and at less than a quarter of a mile distant from the shore...I tied up my horses, therefore, to a bush and waited for Wylie, who was not long in coming after me, having driven the poor horses at a pace they had not been accustomed to for many a long day. I now made a smoke on the rock where I was, and hailed the vessel, upon which a boat immediately put off, and in a few moments I had the inexpressible pleasure of being again among civilised beings and of shaking hands with a fellow countryman in the person of Captain Rossiter, commanding the French whaler Mississippi.'

The sailors on the Mississippi had established a kind of settlement in the area and were growing vegetables and raising sheep and goats during the non-whaling season.

Eyre was followed through the area by John Septimus Roe's surveying expedition of 1848 but Roe's report on the coast was unenthusiastic and did little to encourage settlement.

The first settlers were the Dempster brothers who drove sheep, cattle and horses from Northam in 1863, taking up a grazing lease of 304 000 acres. The former Dempster Homestead, located at 155 Dempster Street, is listed on the National Estate as an important relic of the early history of the area. Built in 1863 by the Dempster brothers it is rough in construction having used local limestone and a design based on needs rather than aesthetics. It has been restored and is now in private ownership and not open to the public.

Annie Dempster wrote in 1865: 'Andrew describes the place where they intend eventually to have their house - it must be a pretty spot at the entrance of Esperance Bay with a beautiful view of the bay which is twenty miles across - a good landing and a capital harbour - the bay seems almost landlocked with islands and the sea so quiet that when rough outside they could take a boat about to any part of it. Also enough good land for a garden and a field, and plenty of good water'.

Access to the outside world was greatly improved when the Overland Telegraph was opened in 1876. There were five telegraph stations along the southern coast at Bremer Bay, Esperance, Israelite Bay, Eyre (now the Bird Sanctuary south of Cocklebiddy) and Eucla. 200 km to the east of Esperance (the last 100 km is restricted to 4WD vehicles only and there are no facilities) is Israelite Bay where the ruins of the Israelite Bay Telegraph Station, which operated from 1877-1917, can be seen. The original building was constructed of timber. It was replaced by a standard stone building in 1896. The complex includes the ruins of a cottage built in 1884 and two graveyards where telegraph operators and others who lived in the area are buried. Although very inaccessible Israelite Bay offers both good fishing and good swimming. The road passes through Cape Arid National Park.

The town of Esperance came into existence in 1893 as a port facility for the Coolgardie goldfield. Its importance was short-lived. The arrival of the railway from Perth to Kalgoorlie in 1896 meant that most miners took the route from the west. The hotels, breweries, stores and guest houses which had sprung up to cater for the miners disappeared overnight.

Attempts were made to open up the area as wheat farming land in 1912 and 1924 but the drought of 1914-1915, the Great Depression and the light salty soils thwarted the development. It wasn't until 1949 that the Gibson Research Station of Esperance Downs discovered that the local soil only needed additional trace elements to make it fertile. This simple discovery ultimately turned the area into a successful producer of wheat, sheep and cattle.

The success of this venture is vividly expressed in the fact that in 1954 there were 36 farmers on about 8000 hectares and by the mid 1980s there were 600 farmers utilising over 400 000 hectares. It was a good combination of Australian technology and American capital.

Things to see:  

Museum Park Period Village

Museum Park Period Village and Tourist Information
A good starting point for any visit to Esperance is the Tourism Association which is located within the Museum Park Period Village in Dempster Street. The Bureau has a number of excellent maps and books about the area and can provide information about local attractions, accommodation, horse rides, fishing charters, diving charters, fishing and diving supplies, island cruise operators, whale-watching cruises (late May to late October), walking and cycling pathways, hiking guides, windsurfing specialists, areas for viewing native wildflowers, scenic flights, abseiling guides, cycle hire, canoe and aqua bike hire, local art galleries and studios, 4WD and other sightseeing tours, car rentals and local events such as the annual show (October), the Angling Classic (February), the Wildflower Show (September) and the biennial Festival of the Wind (November).

The Museum Village is an interesting collection of historical buildings which covers an entire block. Apart from the old railway station and yards there is a former doctor's surgery, a school master's residence, a church and a private home, all located on an imaginary historic street.

The village incorporates a cafe, art gallery, a blacksmith's, craft shops and the town's visitor information centre which dispenses information relating to local attractions, accommodation, eateries, and service providers who offer such excursions as safaris to local beaches, bays, national parks and scenic regional towns, fishing charter services, scenic flights, horse rides and wildlife cruises through the Archipelago of the Recherche, involving sightseeing of dolphins, seals and sea lions. Such services include a stop-off at Woody Island and the Eco Tourism Retreat which offers hut-style accommodation.

The Visitor Centre and the Museum Village are open from 8.45 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. weekdays and 9.00 a.m.to 5.00 p.m. weekends. To contact the Centre ring (08) 9071 2330 or email admin@visitesperance.com

Esperance Museum
Located at the corner of Dempster St and James St, the Esperance Museum displays material relating to local history, including pioneer memorabilia, a 1951 coal-fire locomotive, shipwreck items, pieces of the US Sky Lab, which fell to earth in the Esperance region in 1980, Aboriginal artifacts, a room with antique musical items, a display of antiquated communications equipment and agricultural machinery. It is open from 1.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. daily, tel: (08) 9071 1579 or email: museum@emerge.net.au

Dempster Homestead
The first European settlers in the vicinity were the Dempster brothers who drove horses, cattle and sheep into the area in 1863, taking up a large grazing lease in 1866. The former Dempster Homestead, located at 155 Dempster Street, is listed on the National Estate as an important relic of the early history of the area. Built in 1863 by the Dempster brothers it is rough in construction having used local limestone and a design based on needs rather than aesthetics. It has been restored and is now in private ownership but can be viewed from the street (there is no access to the grounds or interior).

Tanker Jetty
There is an artificial reef just off the end of the town jetty which is a good spot for fishing and strolling. A local sea lion tends to make regular appearances, albeit at its own discretion. The jetty extends out into Esperance Bay from the point where Dempster St and The Esplanade conjoin.

Cannery Arts Centre
The Cannery Arts Centre is the major arts exhibition space in Esperance. It displays local and touring exhibitions and possesses studios in use by local artists. There is also an arts and crafts shop. It is located on Norseman Rd, just beyond Tanker Jetty. The centre can be contacted on (08) 9071 3599.

Bandy Creek and Bandy Creek Boat Harbour
About 3 km north of Tanker Jetty (via Goldfields Rd) is the turnoff into Daw Drive which leads to Bandy Creek Boat Harbour. This is the centre of the local fishing industry and a good spot to cast a line.

The harbour lies at the mouth of Bandy Creek. Canoes and Aqua Bikes can be hired from the Esperance Chalet village for usage along the creek.

Pink Lake
Pink Lake, when the conditions are right, takes on a soft pink hue owing to the salt-tolerant dunalella salina algae, although water temperature and salinity levels cause the colouring to vary considerably. There is a lookout, from whence one can see stockpiles of table salt, which is produced in solar ponds at the eastern end of the lake.The site is 5 km west of town along Pink Lake Rd which runs off Dempster St.

Grave of Tommy Windich
Just across the railway line from the harbour (on The Esplanade), is the grave of Tommy Windich. The headstone, erected by John and Alexander Forrest, explains his importance and why he is so fondly remembered. 'Erected by John and Alexander Forrest in memory of Tommy Windich - Born near Mt Stirling Died at Esperance Bay. He was an aboriginal native of Western Australia of great intelligence and fidelity who accompanied them on exploring expeditions into the interior of Australia two of which were from Perth to Adelaide.'

A view of Esperance from the Rotary Lookout

Rotary Lookout
Nearby, along Doust St (which runs off Twilight Beach Road) is the excellent Rotary Lookout which provides panoramic views of Esperance, Esperance Bay, Pink Lake, farmlands, and the islands off the coast. There is an associated loop walk.

But it is really the drive along the coast which takes the breath away. The visitor comes over the hill and there below, protected by thick wildflowers, is West Beach. The immediate response is: 'This must surely be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The sand is so white and the sea is so green.'

Miniature Railway
Miniature train rides operate in Port Authority Park in Taylor St. Times of operation vary so contact the visitor centre for further information, tel: (08) 9071 2330.

Archer Drive Lookout
This drive takes in attractive natural and farmland scenery as well as former goldmining sites. Information is available from the Information Centre.

Great Ocean Drive and the Beaches to the West of the Town
What is difficult to comprehend is that West Beach is but one of a necklace of beaches and each one has its own special appeal and charm. These include Second Beach, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Fourth Beach, Twilight Beach, Nine Mile Beach and Eleven Mile Beach.

But, for all its beauty, the white sands spilling over the road are a reminder that this stretch of coastline is whipped most afternoons by the dreaded 'Esperance Doctor'.

'Every afternoon!' one local wit declared. 'It started about 7 o'clock this morning.' Access to the beaches is via Twilight Beach Road which becomes Great Ocean Drive: a scenic 38-km circular loop drive which includes Twilight Beach, Rotary Lookout, the wind farms, Observatory Point and Pink Lake

Observatory Point and Lookout
At Observatory Point and Lookout a plaque commemorates the occasion in 1792 when the French frigates L'Esperance and Recherche sheltered there. The view of the bay and its islands is excellent. It is located on Twilight Beach Rd (access is via Great Ocean Drive).

Wind Powered Electricity Generators

Westwind Windmills
And if you need a reminder of the power of the winds blowing off the Southern Ocean there, over the road from Salmon Beach, are the huge Westwind windmills or, to use the technical term 'Wind Powered Electricity Generators'.

Six modernistic windmills driven by huge 16-metre blades and whirring like strange mechanical creatures from outer space. It is worth remembering that their expected output is one million kilowatt hours per annum and that they don't start producing power until the wind reaches a speed of 45 km/h. That is an awful lot of strong winds.

A sign near the windmills proudly declares: 'Power from the wind. Australia's first wind farm. The supplier was Westwind Turbines of Australia. They are a fixed pitch blade stall regulated, horizontal axis and a two speed generator. The height of the towers is 22 metres and the rotors are 16 metres across. They move between 34 and 45 revs per minute. The machines were built by Westwind Turbines and are based on a modified version of a prototype which has been tested at South Fremantle since March 1984. The involvement of the South East Electricity Commission of Western Australia in wind power goes back to 1980 when it trialed three machines on Rottnest Island. A total of eight machines have been evaluated. Esperance was selected because it has both high average wind speeds and relatively high fuel costs. The turbines were connected to the grid on the 6th April 1987'.

Esperance is the second windiest place in Western Australia after Cape Leeuwin which lies exposed to the full force of both the Indian and Southern Oceans. Those wishing to see the wind farms can turn off Twilight Beach Rd onto Stewart St or visit the site further west near Ten Mile Lagoon (via Great Ocean Drive).

Yabby Farm
Located at the north-western end of town, near the southern edge of Lake Warden, is a yabby farm which is open from Tuesday to Saturday. Call (08) 9071 3675 to arrange a time to visit.

Lions Lookout
From Six Mile Hill there are fine views of Esperance and of the coast and its offshore islands. The lookout is located at the northern end of town, just beyond Warden Lake (via Norseman Rd).

Helms Arboretum
Located 18 km north of town, along Norseman Road, is a sizeable area of trees and flowering native shrubs, with a focus on pines collected from around the world. Guided walks are available in springtime.

Speddingup Farm Wildflower Sanctuary
Located 45 km north of Esperance this nature sanctuary highlights the fine wildflowers of the southern sandplain. Visitors can meander along the pathways at their own volition or take a guided tour. It is open from August 1 to November 1 with morning and afternoon teas available and can be found at the intersection of Norseman Rd and Speddingup East Rd, tel: (08) 9075 6053 or (0429) 990 176.

Peak Charles National Park
Over 100 km north of Esperance is Peak Charles National Park, which centres on two ancient granite peaks - Peak Charles and Peak Eleanora. They offer excellent views over the surrounding sandplains with theie heaths and salt lake systems. No fees are charged for camping but there are no facilities at the designated camping area (other than toilets) and no water.

Hellfire Gallery
To the east of town, on Tyrrell Rd, is the Hellfire Gallery, which is situated in an attractive garden setting with over a thousand lavender plants, which bloom from November to January, although lavender products are avalable all year round. There is also a cafe, tel: (08) 9075 9042.

Cape Le Grand National Park
50 km south-east of Esperance is the 31 390-ha Cape Le Grand National Park with its wildflowers (in bloom from September to November), rugged coastline, beautiful bays and beaches, rocky headlands and excellent coastal bushwalking tracks. Inland the park consists principally of sand plains covered by coastal heath environs and interspersed with the occasional swamp and freshwater pool. Mount Le Grand is the tallest of the park's several granite peaks, at 345 metres. The caves and tunnels in these structures are thought to have been caused by waves and other water erosion from a time when they were submerged. Potential park activities include walking, camping, boating, picnicking, sightseeing, nature study, swimming, photography and fishing.

The park supports a diversity of habitats and wildlife with banksia thickets predominating. The western grey kangaroo is quite common, especially at Lucky Bay where they are quite accustomed to the human presence. The park also has many reptiles and birds, as well as small mammals such as bandicoots and the pigmy honey possum.

Caravan and camping areas are available at Cape Le Grand Beach and Lucky Bay. The appraoch is via Fisheries Rd, Tyrells Rd, Merivale Rd then Cape Le Grand Rd. All are bitumen but all roads beyond them are gravel. Visitors should note that the beaches are treacherous for vehicles and many become bogged in innocent-looking wet or dry sands. Ask the ranger about tides and surface conditions. It is best not to attempt to launch a boat at Rossiter Bay. Cape Le Grand Beach is a better option and Lucky Bay is the best bet for launching.

There is no power at the campsites but there are solar-heated showers, septic toilets, tank water, picnic areas, shade shelters, information bays, walking track, tables and barbecues. However, firewood is scarce in the park so you should bring a portable gas stove. Camping fees apply.

A marked 15-km one-way trail traverses the coastline from Rossiter Bay to Cape Le Grand. It has been broken into four sections but can be traversed in 6-8 hours in its entirety. The shortest portion is that between Lucky Bay and Thistle Cove, which is an easy stroll, taking about half an hour to complete.

Another walk is that to the top of Frenchmans Peak (262 m above sea-level) which can be reached by foot in a two-hour, 3-km return trip from the car park. However, this is a deceptively steep, hard-going trek and it is not recommended at all in wet or windy conditions. The park also has a bird sanctuary which can be accessed via a 400-metre trail from the Rossiter Bay car park.

The park was named after Monsieur Le Grand, an officer of the L'Esperance, which visited these shores in 1792. Matthew Flinders arrived ten years later, naming Lucky Bay when taking shelter from a storm one day. In June 1841 explorer John Eyre was relieved to find, after crossing the Nullarbor, the ship the Mississippi, captained by a Mr Rossiter. It was anchored in what Eyre named Rossiter Bay while Mississippi Hill, at Lucky Bay, was named ater Rossiter's vessel.

Access to the park is via Cape Le Grand Rd which heads south off Merivale Rd. Regular tours to the park operate out of Esperance. For more information about the park ring the Esperance office of CALM on (08) 9071 3733 or call the on-site ranger on (08) 9075 9022.

Condigup
67 km east of town, along Fisheries Rd, is the small settlement of Condigup which features a tavern and general store. Due south is Duke of Orleans Bay.

Duke of Orleans Bay
Further east (85 km from Esperance) is Duke of Orleans Bay, which occupies a very beautiful part of the coastline. The Orleans Bay Caravan Park has full facilities, including petrol and a kiosk, tel: (08) 9075 0033. Access is via Orleans Bay Rd which heads south off Merivale Rd Nearby are Hammer Head and Whartons Beach.

Cape Arid National Park
125 km east of Esperance is Cape Arid National Park, covering 280,000 hectares. It offers even more remote sandy beaches, excellent costal scenery, the Thomas River and its estuary, granite outcrops and marshy clay flats, along with several rocky mounts which offer fine perspectives of the surrounding terrain. Park activities include bushwalking, camping, birdwatching, whalewatching, picnicking, photography, four-wheel-driving and fishing. Rock climbing is permitted with the ranger's permission, tel: (08) 9075 0055. The park is best visited in spring and autumn.

The flora consists chiefly of coastal heath systems, banksia woodland (which surrounds the Thomas River campground) and swamp yate woodland, with dense stands of mallee inland, as well as patches of paperbark and other semi-arid eucalypt woodland types. There are shrublands around rockier inland areas.

The fauna is correspondingly diverse and includes brush-tailed wallabies and honey possums, although the park is chiefly noted for its 160 or so bird species, including 16 honeyeater species (some are common at the Thomas River campground when the banksias are in flower), stints, sanderlings, pardalotes (in the yate woodlands), kites, currawongs, the scarlet robin, the ground parrot, the western spinebill, the pied butcherbird, the mulga parrot, the red-eared firetail (unique to Western Australia), lorikeets amid the mallee eucalypts in autumn, the silver gull, the crested tern, the pied oystercatcher (the latter three can be seen around the Thomas River estuary), and, in the heathlands, falcons, emu-wrens and bustards. Cape Arid is also home to the endangered western ground parrot and it is visited by rare species such as the Australasian bittern, Carnaby's black cockatoo and the hooded plover (at Yokinup Bay which extends eastwards from the estuary). The West Australian Cape Barren goose (estimated to number oly 650) breeds only in the Recherche Archipelago.

The park has a number of walking tracks: the Len Otte Nature Trail (1 hour) is self-guided, while the Tagon Coastal Trail, the Boolenup Trail and the Mt Ragged Trail are pegged. The Boolenup Trail entails an enjoyable meander through heath, banksia woodland, yate woodland and paperbark swamp, concluding at Boolenup Lake, populated by black swans, little black cormorants and musk ducks.

This is a large remote park and, although access to the main campground (Thomas River) is quite unproblematic, most other tracks in the park (including those which lead to the other campgrounds) are crude 4WD tracks and access along these roads is dependent on the weather. Most 4WD tracks are unsignposted. There is no power, visitors must bring their own drinking water into the park and remember that the nearest petrol supply is 55 km away at Condingup. There are no boat ramps and steep rocky slopes are slippery when wet. The campgrounds have pit toilets, picnic tables and gas barbecues.

The cape was named 'Cap Arride' in 1792 by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux of the vessel L'Esperance and it was anglicised in 1802 when Matthew Flinders inspected the area.

Access to Thomas River campground is via 18 km of good quality, all-weather gravel roads, suitable to two-wheel drive vehicles. These access roads run off Fisheries Road which is sealed. For more information about the park ring the Esperance office of CALM on (08) 9071 3733.

Monjingup Lake Reserve
This reserve, centring on Monjingup Lake, is situated amid attractive bushland and offers walking trails, picnic and barbecue facilities, springtime wildflowers and birdwatching opportunities. It is located on Telegraph Rd which runs off the South Coast Highway to the north-west of town.

Telegraph Farm
Further along Telegraph Rd is Telegraph Farm which offers visitors a chance to view a working farm with such wildlife as red deer, kangaroos, emus and water buffalo. They have a protea plantation and a coffee shop and are open Thursday to Monday from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. with tours departing at 10.30 a.m., 1.30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. Tours are also available from town. Evening meals are available on Saturdays and, by prior arrangement, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, tel: (08) 9071 1146.

Dalyup River Wines
The only winery in the region, Dalyup is located is a river valley on an historic farm property. Red and white wines are available for tasting and purchase on weekends and public holidays from October to Eastere from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. The winery is located on Murrays Rd, which heads south off the South Coast Highway about 35 km west of Esperance, tel: (08) 9076 5027 or email: dalyup@wn.com.au

Stokes Inlet National Park
Located about 80 km west of Esperance (access is off the South Coast Highway), Stokes encapsulates about 10,000 hectares of gorgeous coastal scenery, ocean fishing and fine beaches for swimming. The park was named by surveyor-general John Septimus Roe in 1848, ater his friend, John Lort Stokes. Land on either side of the inlet was taken up as a pastoral lease in 1863. A decade later the Moir family were granted land around the inlet where they ran sheep. They also built a limestone homestead; the walls of which are still standing today within the park grounds. The estuary itself is cut off from the sea by an extensive sand bar and is typically surrounded by dense bushland.

The park's vegetation consists principally of coastal heath, scrub and areas of dense low forests. Paperbarks typically fringe the shore, along with sedge and samphire. Aquatic plants, such as seagrass, stonewort and a type of alga, are to be found in the waters of the inlet. Owing to the sandbar the salinity levels vary considerably. The larvae of mussels, prawns, cockles and some crabs enter the waters when the bar opens, as it does occasionally, but they die as evaporation intensifies salinity levels. Some species of worms, bivalves, shrimps and snails, which have high tolerance of the changing salinity, are present at all times, and a species of snail can, at times, number in the millions. Fish species also vary depending on the inflow of sea water. The fauna also includes 29 waterbird species, including Australian shelduck, grey teal, little black cormorants, black swans, chestnut teal and migratory species such as the common sandpiper, the red-capped plover, Australasian grebes, Australian pelicans, little pied cormorants, white-faced herons, great egrets and pied oystercatchers. There are also kangaros and the occasional seal can be found along the coast.

Access is via a 6-km gravel road which departs from the South Coast Highway 2 km west of the Young River crossing. This track leads to camping areas on the western shore of the inlet. They have no power or water but there are pit toilets, walking trails, dinghy-launching sites, tables and gas barbecues. The eastern shore is only accessible by boat or a rough 4WD track which runs off Farrells Road. It leads to the Old Moir homestead and Fanny Cove. Like Fanny Cove, Skippy Rock and Shoal Cape offer attractive coastal scenery but can only be reached via 4WD.

Visits are best planned for the spring, summer and early autumn (September to April). Birdwatching, fishing, camping, walking and canoeing represent some of the park's potential. The nearest supplies are at Munglinup, 30 km to the west.

Recherche Archipelago/Woody Island
The Recherche Archipelago is a large collection of 110 offshore islands spread along the coast to the west (and mostly) to the east of Esperance. They feature a vast variety of wildlife and offer cruising, diving, sailing and snorkelling opportunities. Local cruise operators offer treks around this Bay of Isles, involving sightseeing of dolphins, seals and sea lions.

Such services include a stop-off at Woody Island, which is the only island of the archipelago open to visitors. Options include day trips, serviced-hut accommodation and camping with ablutions block, barbecues and a playground. The island has glass-bottom boats, disabled facilities, water slide, snorkel hire, an interpretive centre, a cafe and a kiosk and offers opportunities for bushwalking, swimming and fishing. For more information ring (08) 9071 5757.

	Tourist Information
	Esperance Tourist Bureau Museum Village P.O. Box 799 Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2521 Facsimile: (08) 9071 4543 Email: Visit.Esperance@bigpond.com.au
	Motels
	Bay of Isles Motel 32 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3999 Facsimile: (08) 9071 3800 Rating: ***
	Bayview Motel 31 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1533 Facsimile: (08) 9071 4544 Rating: ***
	Captain Huon Motel 5 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2383 Facsimile: (08) 9071 2358 Rating: ***
	Esperance Motel/Hotel 14 Andrew St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1555 Facsimile: (08) 9071 1495 Rating: ***
	Jetty Motel 1 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5978 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5540 Rating: ***
	The Old Hospital Motel 1A William St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3587 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5768 Rating: **
	Hospitality Inn Esperance The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1999 Facsimile: (08) 9071 3915 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Esperance Travellers Inn Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1677 Facsimile: (08) 9071 1190 Rating: **
	Pier Hotel The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1777 Facsimile: (08) 9071 3725 Rating: **
	Pink Lake Lodge & Apartments 85 Pink Lake Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2075 Facsimile: (08) 9071 4754 Rating: **
	Resorts
	Resort West Unit 60 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4867
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Aitchison House Bed & Breakfast 7 Panorama Place Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3240
	Doo Drop Inn 3 Norseman Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5043 Rating: ***
	Elverden House Bed & Breakfast South Coast Hwy Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2429
	Hillside Lodge Bed & Breakfast Cnr Twilight Beach Rd & Phillips St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2440 Facsimile: (08) 9071 2440
	Rose Hill Cottage Bed & Breakfast 30 Crossland St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5050
	Apartments
	Archipelago Apartments 24 Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 7100 Facsimile: (08) 9071 7501
	Esperance Beachfront Resort Holiday Apartments 19 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2513 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5442 Rating: **
	Esperance Seaside Apartments 15 and 16 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9072 0044 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5313 Rating: ****
	Pink Lake Lodge & Apartments 85 Pink Lake Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2075 Facsimile: (08) 9071 4754 Rating: ***
	Holiday Homes & Units
	CWA Esperance Holiday Units The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1364 Facsimile: (08) 9071 2370
	Esperance All Seasons Holiday Units 73 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2257 Facsimile: (08) 9071 2331 Rating: **
	Wescourt Family Units Cnr Westmacott & Chaplin Sts Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2333 Facsimile: (08) 9071 3832
	Cottages & Cabins
	Bayside Cottage 5 Emily St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9076 7054 Facsimile: (08) 9076 7054
	Dempster Charm Cottage 12 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1413
	Derella Cottage 16 Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9076 5024
	Quays Cottage 22 Castletown Quays Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 0018
	Farm & Eco Holidays
	Merrivale Farm Farmstay Merivale Rd 25km east Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 9020
	Yirri West Farmstay Hicks Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9076 1350 Facsimile: (08) 9076 1350
	Lodges & Chalets
	Esperance Chalet Village Frank Freeman Dve Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1861 Facsimile: (08) 9072 1021 Rating: ***
	Happy Hallow Chalets Fisheries Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3222 Rating: **
	Caravan Parks
	Bathers Paradise Caravan Park Cnr Westmacott & Chaplin Sts Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1014 Facsimile: (08) 9071 1014 Rating: **
	Bushland Caravan Park Collier Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1346 Facsimile: (08) 9071 1346 Rating: **
	Orleans Bay Caravan Park Duke of Orleans Bay Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 0033 Facsimile: (08) 9076 6006 Rating: **
	Crokers Park Holiday Resort 817 Harbour Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4100 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5100 Rating: ****
	Esperance Bay Caravan Park 162 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2237 Facsimile: (08) 9071 2237 Rating: ****
	Esperance Seafront Caravan Park Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1251 Facsimile: (08) 9071 7003 Rating: ***
	Pink Lake Caravan Park Pink Lake Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2424 Facsimile: (08) 9071 5075 Rating: ***
	Backpackers
	Esperance Backpackers 14 Emily St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4724
	Camping & Other
	"13 Emily Street" 13 Emily St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 3022
	Beach House Castletown Quays Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9076 7036
	Bethel House 21 Leake St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 9025
	Bethel House, Town Central 21 Leake St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 9025
	Black Forest Retreat Lot 14 Helms Dr Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5357
	Blue Retreat 4 Fullerton St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5629
	Blue Waters Hostel Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1040 Facsimile: (08) 9071 1040
	Isle View Beach House 2 Gladstone St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9078 3034 Facsimile: (08) 9078 3067
	Le Shed Lot 5 Downes St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4106
	Western Heights 4 Mills Place Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3164
	Restaurants
	Bay of Isles Motel 32 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3999
	Bayview Motel Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1533
	Bonaparte Seafood Restaurant 51 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5268
	Captain Huon Motel 5 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2383
	Carusoe's Restaurant 81 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 7771
	Emperors Garden Chinese Restaurant 123 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2866
	Esperance Motel/Hotel 14 Andrew St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1555
	Frankes's Restaurant 103 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9072 0082
	Gibson Soak Country Pub Norseman Rd 25km north Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9075 4020
	Golden Orient Chinese Restaurant 49 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3744
	Hospitality Inn The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1999
	Jetty Motel 1 Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5978
	Pier Hotel The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1777
	Pink Lake Restaurant Pink Lake Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2075
	Pizza Kitchen Esperance Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4666
	Taylor Street Tearooms Taylor Street Jetty Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 4317
	The Gray Starling Restaurant 126 Dempster St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5880
	Travellers In Bistro Goldfields Rd Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 1677
	Cafés
	Beachfront Cafe The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 7107
	Esperance Cafe 9 Andrew St Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 2320
	Island Fare Coffee Shop Boulvard Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5555
	Ollies Cafe 51 The Esplanade Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 5268
	Village Cafe Museum Village Esperance WA 6450 Telephone: (08) 9071 3362