Cowrie Beach on Phillip Island

Phillip Island (including Rhyll, Ventnor, Cape Woolamai, The Nobbies and the Penguin Parade)
Large island famous for its little penguin colony
Located only 124 km south of Melbourne, at the entrance to Westernport, Phillip Island is a popular day trip from Melbourne. It is connected to the mainland by a 640-metre long bridge at San Remo which, in 1969, replaced an older suspension bridge.

Phillip Island covers some 10 000 hectares. It is 26 km long and 9 km wide and consists largely of open and flat countryside. The permanent population, in the off-season, is some 5500 but the island currently attracts some 3.5 million visitors each year which makes it the most popular single tourist destination in Australia. Its large little penguin colony and other natural features (such as Churchill Island, Seal Rocks and the Koala Conservation Centre) are the major attractions although the island is sufficiently large to have a few substantial towns (see entries on Cowes and Newhaven) and a wide variety of activities, including the popular Phillip Island motorcycle race track.

It is thought that, in pre-colonial times, Phillip Island was occupied by the Bunurong people. That colonial era was prefigured in January 1798 when George Bass entered Westernport on a voyage of exploration inspired by the survivors of the Sydney Cove (see entry on Wollongong). He named it Western Port (now written Westernport) as it was, at the time, as it was, at the time, the most westerly known harbour on the coast. Bass returned in October 1798 with Matthew Flinders. The two men were travelling down the mainland coast on board the 25-ton sloop Norfolk on a voyage intended to confirm their suspicion that a strait existed between the mainland and Van Diemen's Land (i.e., Tasmania). They anchored off what is now the settlement of Rhyll on the eastern side of Phillip Island. Bass thought that Cape Woolamai resembled the head of a snapper and so the island became known as Snapper Island.

Lieutenant James Grant made the first known passage through Bass Strait from the west in 1800. Governor King sent him back to the area the following year. During that voyage he constructed a simple cottage on Churchill Island and planted corn and wheat with seeds supplied by his friend John Churchill, after whom he named the island. This was the first European settlement in what is now Victoria. Consequently, Phillip Island became known, for a time, as Grant's Island, but its present name was later adopted in honour of Governor Phillip.

In 1802 Nicholas Baudin, the French explorer, sailed past, and named, French Island. In 1826 another French vessel, under Dumont d'Urville, examined Westernport, arousing apprehensions about French colonisation of the southern coastline. Coupled with this was the favourable report of the Westernport district made by explorers Hamilton Hume and William Hovell who believed that their 1824 overland journey from NSW had terminated at Westernport. Unfortunately they were mistaken, having actually completed their trek further west at Port Phillip. On the basis of their favourable comments Governor Darling decided to forestall any prospective French plans by establishing a military and agricultural settlement at Westernport. Captain Wright was dispatched with troops, 21 convicts and William Hovell. Wright established a small military settlement at the present-day site of Rhyll and called it Fort Dumaresq. However, fresh water proved a problem and the outpost was moved to Corinella on the eastern shoreline of Westernport.

Meanwhile Hovell's explorations of the coastline revealed his mistake and an erroneous report claiming that Westernport was unsuitable for agriculture, owing to poor soil and lack of fresh water, coupled with the absence of any Frenchmen, led to the abandonment of the Westernport settlements in 1828. The buildings were burned to prevent their usage by escapee convicts. As a result of this comedy of errors, settlement of the Port Phillip district was delayed for another seven years.

Throughout this period, because of the colonies of seals which inhabited the coastline, sealers made regular stopovers on the island. Their settlements were short-lived and designed only to process their catch.

An old chicory mill on Phillip Island

The first permanent settlement of the island occurred in 1842 when the McHaffie brothers were granted a pastoral lease covering almost the entire island. It served as a sheep rununtil 1868 when the island was surveyed and made available to selectors. The first recorded land sale took place at Rhyll in 1868. More sales proceeded in 1869 at Cowes which was known as Mussel Point until 1865. It was renamed by government surveyor Henry Cox after a holiday retreat on England's Isle of Wight. Jetties were built at Rhyll in 1868 and at Cowes in 1870 to facilitate access from, and trade with, the mainland. By 1870 the Isle of Wight Hotel had also been built at Cowes.

165 settlers were to be found on the island in 1872. It was thought that wheat-growing would prove viable as Phillip Island was a short boat trip from the Melbourne markets, unlike the distant wheat belt of Western Victoria, although the industry never really got off the ground.

Fishing had emerged (particularly for crayfish) and chicory was grown for the first time in 1870. It is one of the charms of the island that you can still see, beside the road, the occasional chicory kiln with its strange tower and pitched roof. This plant, which is a root crop, was dried and converted into powder and mixed with coffee. It was claimed that chicory had medicinal properties. By the late 1940s nearly three-quarters of Australia's chicory crop was being grown on Phillip Island but it eventually faded owing to high labour costs and declining demand. Sheep, cattle and mustard were also produced in this era.

Municipal government commenced in 1871. However, development of the island was slow as a number of early settlers were forced to abandon their land owing to drought. An exodus occurred in the 1870s with much of the property bought up by a small number of landowners. By 1902 there were no more than 50 settlers.

The real development of the island occurred in the 1920s with the establishment of an access track to the penguin colony. Tourism was greatly stimulated with visitors accessing the island by means of the ferry service at Cowes where a number of grand guesthouses were built. Visitors tended to explore the island by horseback.

The Shire of Phillip Island was declared in 1928 and the first motor race was held on the island that same year. A bridge linked the island to the mainland for the first time in 1940.

An interesting footnote to the town's history suggests that the words of 'Waltzing Matilda' were written at Cowes.

Regular events are held at Churchill Island including the Newhaven College Gourmet Food and Wine Festival around March-April, a Bush dance in January, Jazz and Blues afternoon in February and a Working Horse adn Pioneer Festival at Easter.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
The Phillip Island Tourist Information Centre is located on the roadside just a kilometre west of the Newhaven bridge on the southern side of Phillip Island Tourist Road. It has been built to resemble one of the chicory kilns which still dot the island. The centre is open from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily with extended hours in the school holidays. Tickets can be purchased here for the Penguin Parade, Churchill Island, ferry cruises and scenic air flights. A Rediscover Nature ticket covers entry charges to the Penguin Parade, Churchill Island and the Koala Conservation Centre, tel: 1300 366 422.

Those attractions which are in the towns of Cowes and Newhaven are listed separately within those entries.

The Penguin Parade site on Phillip Island

Phillip Island Penguin Parade
22 km from the Newhaven bridge is the parking area associated with the Penguin Parade. Visitors should note that Ventnor Road is closed off beyond this point from sunset to sunrise.

The little penguins, native to Australia, are the smallest of their species, growing to a mere 33 cm in height. They possess waterproof feathers and are most plentiful in summer when they are rearing their young. Each evening, just on dusk, thousands of little penguins make their way back to their burrows in the sand dunes at the back of Summerland Beach. The penguins go out to sea each day to catch food (mostly pilchards and other small fish) for themselves and their young. They return to the beach in 'rafts' (groups - sometimes of only a few, sometimes of some dozens) and make their way up the beach to their nests where they lay a couple of eggs which take about six weeks to hatch. The chicks remain in the nest for two months.

In recent times the activity has become so hugely popular (it is the No. 1 tourist attraction in Victoria) that a substantial visitors' centre with award-winning educational displays, a cafe, a theatrette and a souvenir shop has been established on the site. It is open daily from 10.00 a.m. to dusk. Facilities have been developed to allow access to the centre and the Parade for disabled people.

Walkways and boardwalks have been constructed to keep visitors off the dunes, and the viewing area is built somewhat like a football stadium or a theatre with multiple viewing positions.

Visitors must keep to the designated viewing areas. Rangers strictly patrol the site and are very tough on people who break the regulations which strictly prohibit the use of cameras and video cameras beyond the visitor centre.

* Note that, during the summer and public holidays, it is advisable to pre-book your tickets

* The Parade is an outdoor experience so please dress warmly.

* Plan to arrive one hour before the penguins appear at sunset. The 'penguin arrival time' is advertised around the island. Be sure to get down to the beach at least 15 minutes before the Parade is due to begin - no announcement is made to mark the commencement of the Parade.

*Watch the audio-visual and computer interactive displays (If you get up the back of the beachside 'theatre' you will not see very much)

There is no argument that seeing the penguins arrive is a very special experience. It is also hard to argue that the Penguin Parade has been over-developed and that, on busy nights, there are just way, way too many people for full enjoyment of the experience. Such is the lot of popular tourist attractions. Visitors can have the satisfaction of knowing that all of the profit goes towards protecting the penguins' habitat and other research and conservation projects.

The Penguin Parade, Churchill Island and the Koala Conservation Centre are managed by the Phillip Island Nature Park which was formed in 1996. The Park also manages coastal, bushland and other reserves on Phillip Island. There are a variety of ranger led activities throughout the January and Easter school holidays. For more information contact (03) 5951 2800.

Churchill Island
This tiny and historic island covers only 57 hectares. It is located offshore, just to the north-west of Newhaven. To get there take the signposted turnoff which heads north off Phillip Island Road just 1 km west of the Newhaven bridge. It used to take visitors across a narrow timber bridge to the island which replaced access by longboat in 1961. Today there is a new bridge which allows unlimited access. Access is from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Note that there is an entry fee, tel; (03) 5956 7214.

Churchill Island was discovered, along with Phillip Island, by George Bass and Matthew Flinders when they arrived in the area on the 25-ton sloop Norfolk in 1798. Three years later (1801) Lieutenant James Grant constructed a simple cottage and named the island after his friend, John Churchill, who had supplied him with seeds. He planted corn, wheat and a small garden. This was the first European settlement in Victoria. Nine months later Lieutenant Murray visited the site and found the crops grown to two metres. The island was subsequently abandoned.

In 1857 Samuel Pickersgill and his family inhabited the island. John Rogers took up residence in 1866, building two small cottages.

Six years later the island was purchased by Samuell Amess, a building contractor responsible for the post office, customs house and treasury buildings in Melbourne. He built a symmetrical weatherboard homestead on the island in 1872.

The island was subsequently owned by Gerald Buckley, the son of Mars Buckley, the founder of the Melbourne store Buckley and Nunn. In 1976 it was bought by the Victorian Conservation Trust and it is now part of, and managed by, the Phillip Island Nature Park. Its principal attractions include the structures built by Rogers and Amess and the outbuildings, lawns, fragrant herb and flower gardens. A Norfolk pine planted by Amess in 1872 has now grown to 25 metres with a girth of 4.4 metres. Also in his garden is a cannon from the US ship the Shenandoah (see entry on Williamstown) which was given to Amess by the ship's officers in his appreciation of his hospitality when the ship visited Melbourne in 1865. There are also historical displays, including a museum of old farming machinery. The island is a working farm with highland cattle, sheep, ducks, chickens and Clydesdale horses. There are ranger talks, machinery demonstrations and festivals throughout the year. You can enjoy morning or afternoon tea and lunches in the new Visitors Centre or a BYO picnic on the lawns. There are toilets, disabled facilities, souvenirs, refreshments and barbecue facilities.

There are a number of walking tracks. The Churchill Island Loop Track is an easy-going stroll which starts at the homestead and takes around two hours. The North Point Loop Track (one hour) also starts at the homestead. There are shorter walks: the Bass Rock Loop (30 minutes), Grant's Monument Loop (30 minutes) and the Mangrove Loop (45 minutes).

These walks take in some fine views and a good sample of the island's flora and fauna. The northern-most tip of the island is a particularly good place to see the migratory birdlife, especially at low tide when the mud flats are exposed. There are pied oyster catchers, royal spoonbills, herons, ibis and gulls. The woodlands of the island's north-west feature the fascinating gnarled trunks of the island's stands of moonah, or melaleuca, trees which are 400-500 years old, and there are a few koalas in the manna gums - although they are now so scarce that only the very lucky visitor is likely to see them.

Cape Woolamai
Cape Woolamai is located at the tip of the island's south-eastern peninsula, directly south of Newhaven. The turnoff into Woolamai Rd is on the left, 3 km west of the Newhaven bridge. It leads to a carpark at Woolamai Beach Surf Lifesaving Club. Woolamai Beach faces out to Bass Strait on the western side of the peninsula. It is considered one of the island's best surfing beaches but it is known for its strong rips and currents so be sure to stay between the flags when swimming.

Behind the beach, and to its south, is the Cape Woolamai State Faunal Reserve which features some dry coast scrub and some spectacular and rugged coastal scenery of granite cliffs and black basalt outcrops. The rocks of Cape Woolamai are home to around one million short-tailed shearwaters, otherwise known as mutton birds. These remarkable birds migrate from Japan, Alaska and Siberia, arriving on the island each year in late September to breed. They clean out and reline their burrows then mate in early November. Most of the eggs are laid in late November and incubation lasts for 53 days. In that time the father and mother share the egg-minding duties with one or the other on the nest at all times. The chicks are fed with decreasing frequency from early February to early April. They grow rapidly until they outweigh the parents. The adults leave on their migration two weeks ahead of their chicks which virtually starve for two weeks until they reduce to average adult weight, departing in late April. As they have a high bodyweight to wing surface ratio they utilise high winds, low sand dunes and a running jump to launch themselves. These birds are protected on Phillip Island although, in the 19th century, they were killed for their feathers and flesh. They live to an average age of 21 years and are particularly evident when they fly in at dusk.

The Pinnacles Walk (4 km return) heads south from the shelter at the Woolamai Beach Surf Life Saving Club carpark along the western edge of the peninsula past some offshore rock formations known as The Pinnacles. The Cape Woolamai Granite Quarry Loop is a longer walk (8 km return) which also takes in the Pinnacles and the highest point on the island (109 metres) from whence there are excellent views. It passes Gull Island, offshore, and a secluded cove which was once a granite quarry employing 300 people. At the quarry wooden pegs were hammered into the rocks. These would swell when wet, thus cracking the rock.

Other island walks are described in information available from the information centre. Diving charters in this area operate out of San Remo.

The Colonnades
At the northern end of Woolamai Rd there is a turnoff which heads south-west to The Colonnades - an unusual rock formation resembling organ pipes on the cliff face. It is best seen at low tide. You can also take a walk to the site by heading north from the Woolamai Surf Beach carpark along the western edge of the peninsula.

Forrest Caves
Continue west along Phillip Island Road. A little less than a kilometre west of the Woolamai Rd turnoff the driver descends a hill. A sign on the left declares 'Forrest Caves'. There is a carpark and a dirt track which leads to the water's edge and a series of steps which facilitate views of Forrest Caves - a series of large sea-eroded caverns which are best seen at low tide.

The coastline here is home to another set of muttonbird rookeries. The birds are present between the end of September and April and they are best seen at dusk.

Surf Beach and Surfies Point
Nearly 2 km further west along Phillip Island Rd is a turnoff on the left into The Esplanade which heads out past a carpark associated with Surf Beach and Surfies Point. As their names indicate these are noted surfing spots. You can walk along the beach from the carpark to the back of the Surf Beach Estate. It takes about 45 minutes.

A Maze 'n' Things Holiday Park
A Maze 'n' Things offers a range of intriguing optical illusions, a large timber three-dimensional maze, puzzles and mini-golf. There are souvenirs, toilets, barbecues, a kiosk and a playground. Accommodation is available on-site and those who stay receive a 50 % discount on admissions. Opening hours are from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. daily. It is located on the Phillip Island Road, about 10 km from the Newhaven bridge, tel: (03) 5952 2283, or visit the web-site at www.amazenthings.com.au

Koala Conservation Centre
Phillip Island has traditionally had a reputation as a place to see koalas in the wild but, in recent years, diseases, road accidents and degradation of the trees has seen their numbers decline. In response a Koala Conservation Centre has been set up at Fiveways on the Phillip Island Road, about 10 km from the Newhaven bridge (opposite A Maze 'n' Things).

There is a visitors' centre which is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily. It has a gift shop, toilets, disabled facilities, souvenirs, refreshments and picnic tables. It is the starting point of the Woodland Walk - a gentle 1-km loop track along a boardwalk. Rangers mark where the koalas are. The Close Viewing Area Walk (500 m) also starts at the visitors' centre. It ascends to a viewing area in the treetops which allows you to see the koalas close-up. There are also rosellas and other native birds. A visit incurs an entry fee, tel: (03) 5952 1307.

Oswin Roberts Reserve and Conservation Hill - Walking/Cycling Tracks
Proceed northwards along Phillip Island Rd. Just beyond the Koala Conservation Centre there is a turnoff on the right into Harbison Rd. A short distance along Harbison Rd there is a carpark. It is associated with the Oswin Roberts Reserve which constitutes a remnant of the island's pre-colonial forest. The Oswin Roberts to Rhyll Walk or Cycle Ride (4 km moderate) starts at the reserve's information shelter. It links up with the Conservation Hill to Rhyll Walk.(1.2 km return) There is an observation tower at Conservation Hill which provides panoramas of the Rhyll wetlands.

Rhyll
The walking /cycling tracks from the Oswin Roberts Reserve and Conservation Hill lead to the ocean inlet at Rhyll which was named after a holiday resort in North Wales. It is located on the island's north-eastern corner with French Island offshore, to the north.

The first Europeans hereabouts were Bass and Flinders who anchored off Rhyll in October 1798. The small military settlement of Fort Dumaresq was briefly established here in 1826 before moving on to Corinella on the eastern shoreline of Westernport.

Permanent European settlement of the locality commenced around 1856 and a jetty was built in 1868 for the exportation of fish and chicory.

The low-lying land at Rhyll forms a saltwater lagoon that attracts large numbers of migratory wading birds which fly thousands of kilometres to feed and breed at the inlet. There are colonies of royal spoonbills, straw-necked ibis, swans, little pied cormorants and the rare hooded plover. A boardwalk, which leads into the midst of the mudflats and mangroves, provides excellent birdwatching opportunities and there is a wetland observation tower. It is on the Cowes-Rhyll Rd, tel: (03) 5951 2800.

Rhyll is a small fishing settlement with plenty of accommodation, two jetties, an all-tide boat ramp, a slipway, a yacht club, an angling club, a sailing school, a general store and a cafe. There are barbecues and toilets on the foreshore, near the jetty (on Beach Rd). Rhyll Park (behind the mechanics hall in Lock Rd) has barbecues, toilets and tennis courts. The Rhyll Bazaar, at 9 Beach Rd, sells bric-a-brac, books, souvenirs, shells, crafts and collectables, tel: (03) 5956 9224.

Anglers will find plenty of squid, snapper, whiting, gummy shark, flathead, whiting, flounder, salmon, garfish, trevally and pike about (the jetty is a good spot for casting a line). Phillip Island Marine hire out boats, tel: (03) 5956 9238 . They also carry information relating to fishing locations and regulations. No licence is required for fishing in Westernport. Fishing trips and boat charter services are offered by Flytrek Australia (tel: 03 5952 5300) and T-Cat Fishing Charters, tel: (0409) 504 974.

Phillip Island Wildlife Park
About 3 km beyond the Koala Observation Centre, on the Phillip Island Rd (watch out for the chicory kiln on the right), is the Phillip Island Wildlife Park which is the largest privately-owned wildlife park in Victoria. It is an open-access park which incorporates 6.5 ha of wetland. There are over 900 animals in all, including emus, echidnae, crocodiles, dingoes, goannas, wedge-tailed eagles, pelicans, koalas, snakes, kangaroos, black swans, wallabies, dingoes, rosellas, lorikeets, kookaburras, native owls, Tasmanian devils, crocodiles, wombats and a nocturnal animals centre. There are picnic areas, souvenirs, toilets, barbecues and a kiosk. It opens daily at 9.00 a.m. but it is advisable to ring to check closing times as it varies throughout the year. The admission fee includes a bag of animal food.

3 km south of Cowes, it is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 5.15 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5952 2038.

Smith's Beach
8 km west of the Newhaven Bridge, there is a left turn off the Phillip Island Road into Back Beach Road which leads due west past the motor-racing circuit (see subsequent entry) to the western end of the island and the Penguin Parade. Side roads head south off Back Beach Road out to several fine coastal spots. One of these is Smith's Beach. The turnoff is about 2 km along Back Beach Road. Smith's is a surfing and diving area although it is unpatrolled. There are toilets, a general store and pleasant coastal views.

Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit
This race track is the home of the motorcycle Grand Prix. It represents the culmination of a long association between the island and motor racing, dating back to 1928 when the Australian Car Grand Prix was run on the island's unsealed roads. The connection solidified over subsequent years with numerous Grand Prix and motorcycle events held on the island. The present circuit was opened in 1956 and redeveloped in 1988. Thus, in 1989, it hosted the first 'world' class Australian Motorcycle Grand Prix which was won by Wayne Gardiner. It has also served as the venue of the Shell V8 Supercars series and the World Superbike Championship. It is located about 4 km along Back Beach Road.

These days there is a Grand Prix Circuit Visitor Centre which features displays detailing the history of motor racing on Phillip Island. Items include Wayne Gardiner's 1987 World 500cc Championship-winning Honda NSR500 and an original 1928 Bugatti GP racing car. There is a guided tour (subject to availability) by mini bus which takes you around the circuit, a series of boardwalks which pass through the Water Gardens and animal enclosures to an excellent Circuit Viewing Area. You can also have your photograph taken on the winner's podium. There is a licensed cafe, a games room, a children's playground and a gift shop. The complex is open daily from 9.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5952 9400.

Pyramid Rock
About 2 km west of the racing circuit (about 6 km along Back Beach Road) is the intersection with Pyramid Rock Road. If you turn left here it leads to Pyramid Rock - a series of basalt columns located offshore at the end of Pyramid Rd. There are fine views of the coastline.

Phillip Island Vineyard and Winery
If you continue west of the intersection with Pyramid Rd you will soon see, to your left, one of the island's old chicory kilns by the roadside. 2 km from Pyramid Rd (8 km along Back Beach Rd) is an intersection with Berry's Beach Rd. If you turn left here you will soon see Phillip Island Vineyard and Winery which was established in 1994. It produces chardonnay, semillon/sauvignon blanc, sauvignon blanc, riesling/traminer, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, sparkling wines, dessert wines and old tawny port. It is open daily from 11.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. from November to March, closing at 5.00 p.m. for the rest of the year. Light platters are available, tel: (03) 5956 8465.

Berry's Beach and Pyramid Rock Walking Track
Berry's Beach Rd continues on past the winery and The Woolshed Restaurant to Berry's Beach where there is a viewing area and good surfing opportunities. A walking track leads eastwards along the coastline to Pyramid Rock.

Kitty Miller Bay
Continuing westwards, Back Beach Rd pases Quoin Hill (76 m) on the left. About 3 km west of the Berry's Beach Rd intersection (11 km along Back Beach Rd) is a turnoff on the left into Kitty Miller Rd which leads out to Kitty Miller Bay. This secluded cove is located at the base of one of the island's extinct volcanoes. It is a good spot for beachcombing and surfing. The Kitty Miller Shipwreck Walk (2 km return) starts at the carpark. Walk east (i.e., left) along the beach, then the rock platform, to the wreck of the SS Speke (one of the largest three-mast ships of its day) which ran aground in 1906. The remains (mostly of the anchor) can best be seen at low tide. Kitty Miller Bay can also be reached by turning off Berry's Beach Road into Watts Rd and heading west to the T-intersection, then turn left into Kitty Miller Rd.

Swan Lake
About 1 km beyond the turnoff to Kitty Miller Bay is a T-intersection which marks the western end of Back Beach Rd. Turn left into Ventnor Rd which heads south-west out along Summerland Peninsula, at the south-western tip of the island. After a short distance you will come to a rather obscure turnoff, on the left, which leads to a carpark and information shelter. From here a walking track (1.3 km return) leads to birdhides at the edge of Swan Lake. The only permanent freshwater lake on the island it is usually profuse with birdlife. Brochures concerning the walk are available from the information centre (bring your binoculars!).

Summerland Beach
Summerland Beach, the home of the Penguin Parade, is also a noted surfing beach and there is public access until dusk when the beach is closed off for all but those participating in the Parade. Visitors should note that Ventnor Road is closed off beyond this point from sunset to sunrise.

Cat Bay
Opposite the Penguin Parade and Summerland Beach, on the other side of Ventnor Rd, is Flynns Beach on Cat Bay. This area is popular with surfers and beachcombers. Sealers Cove, at the western end of Cat Bay, separates Flynns Beach from Shelley Beach and Point Sambell at its western end separates Shelley Beach from Cowrie Beach. Visitors should note that Ventnor Road is closed off beyond this point from sunset to sunrise.

The walkways out to the rookeries at Point Grant on Phillip Island

The Seal Rocks Sea Life Centre, Seal Rocks, The Nobbies and The Blowhole
Point Grant is located at the south-western tip of the island. Here you will find the Seal Rocks Sea Life Centre. This three-storey complex has been constructed on Point Grant, overlooking the Nobbies, Seal Rocks, Bass Strait and Cape Schanck.

The Nobbies is a rugged rock platform located just offshore, to the west of Point Grant. It was formed by volcanic outpourings 40 to 60 million years ago. Just to the south-west of The Nobbies, 1.5 km offshore, are Seal Rocks. This rocky outcrop is home to a colony of Australian fur seals. These creatures are the largest fur seals in the world. The males measure up to 2.5 metres and weigh around 360 kg. The females are considerably smaller. Their coats, when dry, range in colour from a yellow hue to greyish-brown on the back and fawn or brown on the side although, when went, they look dark brown or black all over. They have been a protected species since 1891 and feed on squid, fish and crayfish.

At their peak in the breeding season, there are between 5000 and 9000 seals on Seal Rocks. The males arrive in November to claim a site and the females arrive later in the month. Each male has 10-20 females in its harem. Each female has one pup which is suckled regularly for one month then suckled periodically for about another seven months. The pups are born in mid-January and the bulls disappear. Most of the seals leave the rocks at the end of summer.

The Seal Rocks Sea Life Centre features a 180-degree live view of the colony which is beamed by laser into the Centre. Other displays relate to the local ecology, the story of George Bass' exploration of the region, the history of the seal colony and the lifecycles of the seabirds, seals and other marine creatures of Bass Strait. As the centre avoids placing live animals in captivity there are moving holograms and a life-size 5.6-metre fibreglass replica of a Great White Shark. It is also possible to go for a rockpool ramble with a ranger for a guide. There is a brasserie, restaurant, souvenir shop, a children's play area, an outdoor picnic area and, of course, an entry fee. The centre is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily. For further information ring (1300) 367 325.

Looking across at The Nobbies, Point Grant

Those who don't wish to pay the fee for the Centre can simply view The Nobbies and Seal Rocks from the kiosk at Point Grant. There are coin-operated telescopes near the kiosk on the island but they are a poor substitute for your own powerful binoculars.

The most invigorating way of seeing Seal Rocks is from the Bay Connections ferry which runs regularly from Cowes and which gets quite close to the island. This makes it possible to see the seals at play, tel: (03) 5678 5642.

A series of boardwalks have been built on the slopes below the kiosk. It is a short walk around to The Blowhole which can be impressive during high tide and heavy seas. Silver gulls nest here and the chicks can be seen in spring and early summer.

There is limited parking at Point Grant so, in holiday periods, a free shuttle bus may be in operation. It ferries visitors from the Penguin Parade to Point Grant. If it is in use, cars are forbidden beyond the Parade carpark. Note that the road is closed beyond the Penguin Parade from sunset to sunrise all year round.

Grossard Point
At Grossard Point, on the north-western tip of the island, is the grave of Captain Grossard, an early settler who was mistakenly shot in 1868 while visiting the residence of the McHaffie family. Grossard Point Rd runs off Ventnor Road which connects the Penguin Parade and Cowes.

Tours
Bay Connections operate regular scenic cruises, with commentary, from Cowes. One journeys along the Phillip Island coastline to Seal Rocks; another crosses over to French Island where it conjoins with a bus tour of the island, and a third cruise investigates Westernport. From November to May there are also special cruises to the Balnarring market (see entry on Somers), occasional cruises around Wilsons Promontory and, from June to August, a whale and seal-watching cruise. There is also a transfer package from the Mornington Peninsula to the motorcycle racing track during the Grand Prix, toll free: 1300 763 739tel: (03) 5952 3501 or fax: (03) 5952 5583 . Their web-site is at www.bayconnections.com.au

Surefoot Explorations, who specialise in birdwatching, offer a small-scale guided nature tours around the island, tel: (03) 5952 1533 or check out their web-site at www.surefoot.com.au.

Phillip Island Marine Eco Tours operate licenced cruises with commentary , taking in Rhyll wetlands, tel: (0427) 056 628.

Island Scenic Tours offer penguin parade tours, island sightseeing tours and personally tailored expeditions, tel: (03) 5952 1042 or (0417) 360 370.

Fishing Trips and Boat Charters
Anglers will find plenty of squid, snapper, channel whiting, gummy shark, flathead, King George whiting, flounder, Australian salmon, garfish, trevally and pike about. Fishing trips and boat charter services are offered by Flytrek Australia (tel: 03 5952 5300) and T-Cat Fishing Charters, tel: (0409) 504 974.

Accommodation and Restaurants
Most of the accommodation and eating information for Phillip Island can be found at Newhaven and Cowes.

	Hotels
	Glen Isla House 230-232 Church St Cowes, 3922 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5952 1882 Facsimile: (03) 5952 5028 Rating: ****1/2
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Chicory Dock 25 Cadogan Ave Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8808 Facsimile: (03) 5956 8808 Rating: ****1/2
	First Class Bed & Breakfast 1Ventnor-Nobbies Rd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8329, 1800 632 301 Rating: ***
	Manildra Bed & Breakfast Cnr The Esplanade & Shalfleet Ave Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8400 Rating: ****
	Mistiblue Bed & Breakfast 5 Ventnor Blvd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8759
	Penguin Hill Country House cnr Backbeach & Ventnors Rd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8777 Rating: ****
	Penguin Hill Country House Bed & Breakfast Cnr Back Beach Rd & Ventnor Rd Ventnor 3922 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 8777 or 015 828 944
	Taylors Waterfront Restaurant & Accommodation Phillip Island Tourist Dve Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 7371
	The Rookery 4 Cadogan Ave Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8637 Rating: ****
	The Windrush Bed & Breakfast 41 Maroubra Dve Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 7937
	Trenavin Park Country House Ventnor-Nobbies Rd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8230
	Ventnor House 61 Grossard Point Rd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8320 Facsimile: (03) 5956 8663 Rating: ****1/2
	Apartments
	Mistiblue Bed & Breakfast 5 Ventnor Blvd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8759 Facsimile: (03) 5956 8754 Rating: ***1/2
	Holiday Homes & Units
	Moonthalie 45 Locke Rd Rhyll Phillip Island VIC 3923 Telephone: (03) 5956 9443 Facsimile: (03) 5956 9468 Rating: ****
	Ventnor Views 9 Ventnor Blvd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5952 6466 Facsimile: (03) 5952 3950 Rating: ****
	Cottages & Cabins
	Cottages for Two 226 - 228 Settlemenet Rd Cowes Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5952 2426, 041 936 8427
	Cowes Eco Cottage cnr Justice Rd & Ventnor Rd Cowes Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5952 6466 Facsimile: (03) 5952 3950 Rating: ****
	Elizabeth Cove Cottage 5 Esplanade via Harris St Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8801 Facsimile: (03) 5956 8801 Rating: ****1/2
	Everton Cottage Berrys Beach Rd Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 8636 or 019 337 412 Facsimile: (03) 5956 8233
	The Gatehouse Cottage 34 Walton St Rhyll 3923 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 9406 Facsimile: (03) 5956 9426 Rating: ****
	Caravan Parks
	Swan Bay Caravan Park 3 Lock Rd Rhyll Phillip Island VIC 3923 Telephone: (03) 5956 9220 Facsimile: (03) 5956 9201 Rating: ***1/2
	Camping & Other
	First Class of Phillip Island Ventnor Rd Ventnor 3922 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: 1 800 632 301 Rating: ****
	Manildra Cnr The Esplanade & Shalfleet Ave Ventnor Phillip Island VIC 3922 Telephone: (03) 5956 8400 or 015 329 680 Rating: ****
	The Rookery 4 Cadogan Ave Ventnor 3922 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 8637
	Restaurants
	Dutchies Stonegrill Restaurant 1 Vista Place Woolamai Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 6000
	Foreshore Bar & restaurant 11 Beach Rd Rhyll Phillip Island VIC 3923 Telephone: (03) 5956 9520
	Glen Isla House 230-232 Church St Cowes, 3922 Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5952 1882 Facsimile: (03) 5952 5028
	Shearwater Restaurant 5 Phillip Island Tourist Rd Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 7371 Facsimile: (03) 5956 6540
	Taylors Waterfront Restaurant & Accommodation Phillip Island Tourist Dve Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 7371
	Woolshed Restaurant Berry's Beach Rd Phillip Island VIC 3925 Telephone: (03) 5956 8414