Colac (including Birregurra, Gellibrand and Forrest)
Small rural service centre with good access to the Great Ocean Road.
Colac is a commercial and civic service centre of about 14 500 people located at the eastern edge of the world's third-largest volcanic plain which is scattered with craters and cones. The fertile soil has rendered it a highly productive agricultural, pastoral and dairying district noted for its onions, potatoes, cattle, pigs, poultry, sheep and milk products. Evidence of the area's long-established prosperity is evident in a number of fine colonial homesteads which still exist in a district known as the lakes area. To emphasise the point, Colac is, in fact, situated on the southern shore of Lake Colac which is one of more than 50 lakes in the district.

Colac is also known as 'the Gateway to the Otways' (a reference to the nearby Otway Ranges and surrounding forest to the south of town). It is 148 km west of Melbourne on the Princes Highway, at an elevation of 134 metres.

Prior to European settlement the area was occupied by the Kolijon or Coladjin Aborigines and the town's name is thought either to derive from this tribal name or from a Kolijon word. The first European in the area was pastoralist Hugh Murray who disembarked at Geelong in 1837 with his sheep and horses and other pastoralists who headed west together. Thomas Austin stopped at what is now Winchelsea while Murray continued west, settling adjacent Barongarook Creek on the southern shore of Lake Colac later in 1837. He built his first homestead in what is now Chapel St in 1840 and the town's main street is named in his honour. It was also in 1837 that the explorers Joseph Gellibrand and George Hesse, of the Port Phillip Association, went missing in the area. Their bodies were never located and they were presumed killed by Aborigines.

Another important early figure was William Robertson who purchased the rights to 5000 acres at Colac in 1837 and, in 1843, he bought out police magistrate Foster Fyans (see entry on Geelong) who had taken up land in the area in 1838. Other settlers of note were Alexander Dennis and John Calvert who established the 'Warncoort' and 'Irrewarra' runs respectively in 1840. These men established very substantial pastoral enterprises, built impressive homesteads (some still stand today), played important roles in the early European settlement of the area and made significant contributions to the country's pastoral history. In 1880 Dennis successfully cross-bred Merino and Lincoln sheep, thereby creating the Polwarth breed which proved better suited to areas of higher rainfall. Calvert, who married Hugh Murray's sister, established the Dreeite-Cotswold breed and set up Shetland pony and shorthorn cattle studs. He later moved to Geelong where he built 'Morongo' which has long been a girls' school.

In 1839 the Tuckfields arrived at Birregurra to establish the Methodist Buntingdale Aboriginal Mission. It was visited in 1841 by Protector of Aborigines, George Robinson, who amused the inhabitants with a fireworks display. The district's first race meeting was held in 1840 to the east of Lake Colac.

An early European visitor to the area was novelist Rolf Boldrewood (nee Thomas Alexander Browne) who, in Old Melbourne Memories (1884), recalls visiting Lake Colac in 1843 and finding it full of wild ducks, geese and cranes. 'It was a scene of surpassing beauty and rural loveliness...This Colac country was the finest, the richest as to soil and pasture that I had up to that time ever looked on'. His son bought a local property in 1885, there entertaining his father and guests such as Dame Nellie Melba.

The settlement at Colac, one of the earlier townships in the Port Phillip district, emerged around a coaching inn which was established in 1844 at the southern end of the lake (at what is now the corner of Hesse and Murray Streets). The site was surveyed in 1844 and small plots of land were made available the following year when a general store and blacksmith's were established.

Noted early clerical figure, the Reverend Dunmore Lang, passed through the district in 1845 and took up land to the west of Colac in 1847. He subdivided it and sold the allotments in England (the purchasers arrived in 1849).

In 1848 the first post office was opened, a Presbyterian chapel was erected, a court of petty sessions was established and Buntingdale mission closed (the buildings were destroyed by fire in 1851). A police court, day school, second hotel, public pound, wheelwright and carpenter's shop and butcher's opened in 1849. A national school was established at East Colac in 1850, along with a second general store, the Colac Hotel and a brickmaking works. The following year the population was recorded as 672. The first flour mill was constructed in 1852 and a bridge was built over Barongarook Creek in 1855. The first Catholic Church was erected in 1856 and a Methodist Church in 1857-58. A steam flour mill was built in 1857, the year the population crept up to 791. That same year, Thomas Austin of Winchelsea, made the fatal mistake of releasing rabbits on his estate. They would reach plague proportions in just a few years, prompting the construction of the stone walls which distinguish the area.

In 1858 the first (unsuccessful) attempt was made to stock Lake Colac with fish and the first Colac Agricultural Show was held in 1859. In 1864 Colac was proclaimed a shire and the first bank opened in town. 1865 saw an unsuccessful attempt made to extract sugar from grass-tree plants.

John Co-Coc-Coine, the last chief of the local tribe and a man known as the 'King of the Warriors', died in 1865. Colac's first newspaper, the 'Observer', was published in 1866. The Duke of Edinburgh visited the area the following year.

1870 saw the first pleasure boats on Lake Colac and a rabbit canning factory was built in 1871. Millions of rabbits were canned here and at Camperdown for export to the UK.

The railway arrived in 1877 and 1879 saw the construction of a hospital and the first regatta on Lake Colac. The following year the First Rabbit Act was passed, making landowners responsible for the destruction of rabbits on their own property.

Some of the old pastoral runs were subdivided late in the century for closer settlement and this process was intensified by further subdivisions after World War I for soldier settlement schemes. The first community hospital in Victoria was opened at Colac in 1934. The settlement became a borough in 1938, a town in 1948 and a city in 1960.

In I Can Jump Puddles (1955) Alan Marshall recalls being taken to Colac Hospital for the treatment of his infantile paralysis.

For some reason the Colac district has, in recent years, produced two men noted for their feats of endurance - Cliff Young who, at 61 years of age, won the Sydney to Melbourne marathon and Drew Kettle who has walked over most of Australia raising money for charities.

The Colac Kana Festival is held annually in March, the Agricultural Show in November and a six-day marathon footrace in November.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
Colac Visitor Information Centre is located at the corner of Murray St (the highway) and Queen St, tel: (03) 5231 3730. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. They can furnish pamphlets relating to a number of walks in the city and district. One is an historic walking tour, another follows Barongarook Creek to the lake and Botanic Gardens while others relate to Floating Islands Reserve (see below) and the Old Beechy Line (see below). There is also a driving tour around the city and another which takes in the saline lakes of the district.

Barongarook Creek Walk
On the other side of the highway to the information centre, and 100 metres to the east, is Lions Park which has barbecues, picnic tables, toilets and an information board. This is the start of a walking track which follows the eastern bank of the creek northwards, beneath archways and English trees, through the Colac Pergola Urban Forest Sanctuary, with its ducks and other waterbirds, to the Botanical Gardens and the Lake. The information centre has a pamphlet relating to this walk.

Lake Colac and Foreshore
Lake Colac is the largest natural freshwater lake in the state. It covers 1820 ha and has an average depth of 2.5 metres. There are several ramps, a jetty, barbecue facilities and boats for hire, together with a plenitude of waterbirds and many scenic spots on the shoreline. Boating, rowing, yachting, swimming, waterskiing, windsurfing and fishing for redfin can all be enjoyed. Ross Point, off Balnagowan Ave, is a popular fishing spot on the lake's shore. There are boat ramps at the yacht club (end of Hamilton St) and off Fyans St. Adjacent the latter, on the foreshore where Barongarook Creek meets Lake Colac, is a children's playground. A caravan park with camping facilities is located nearby. A bird sanctuary lies at the end of Church St.

Botanic Gardens
Colac Botanic Gardens are situated on the southern shore of Lake Colac. The land was set aside for that purpose in 1865 but plans were not prepared until 1910 by Robert Guilfoyle, the director of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens.

Covering 15 ha they contain over 1000 specimens (more species than any other provincial garden in Victoria), including trees registered by the National Trust. There are also shady picnic areas with barbecue facilities and a children's playground, a loop drive for motorists, as well as a network of walking paths for pedestrians.

The main entrance, with its ornate iron gates, is at the end of Gellibrand St. They are open from 7.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. in winter, extended to 8.00 p.m. during daylight savings.

Historic Town Walk
Start your walk at the tourist information centre. Walk east a short distance along to 8 Murray St East. This building, now a private residence, was built in 1874 and licensed in 1875 as the Prince of Wales Hotel.

Return to the information centre. The sandstone building situated diagonally opposite, at 1 Murray St, with its Classical facade and timber shop front joinery, has been through numerous manifestations. The town's first building, the Crook and Plaid Inn, was built on this site in 1844. It was, in fact, the raison d'etre of Colac, being the nucleus around which the town coalesced. This was later demolished and a timber general store built in 1868. Small elements of this structure remain although the facade dates from the 1880s. It is currently a restaurant.

On the south-western corner is the Colac post office, built in 1876 with 1888 extensions. Adjacent is the shire hall (1879). Further west, at 26 Murray St, is a two-storey stuccoed brick structure with an iron palisade fence which was built in 1885 as the National Bank.

Historical Centre
Turn left into Gellibrand St. At the corner of Gellibrand and Rae Sts is the Colac Otway Performing Arts and Cultural Centre. This complex has two cinemas and is home to the town's Historical Centre.

Historical Walk Continued
Return along Gellibrand St and turn left, back into Murray St. At no.126 are Norwich Chambers (1883) and at no.144 are J.G. Johnstone's offices (1902).

Turn right into Corangamite St and head north towards the lake. At the corner of Corangamite St and Queens Ave is the Sister of Mercy convent (1889).

Turn right into Queens Ave then right into Gellibrand St. On this corner is the modern design of St Mary's Catholic Church (1979-80) with its stained-glass roof, the work of a local craftsman. The original St Mary's was erected in 1883.

Proceed south on Gellibrand St to no.16 which was built in 1883 as the residence of a local doctor.

Turn left into Pollack St. On the Hesse St corner is St John's Anglican Church, built in 1891 to replace the 1870 original.

Turn right, heading south on Hesse St. At the Manifold St corner is the outstanding Gothic design of St Andrew's Uniting Church, built in 1877 as the town's third and last Presbyterian church (the first dating from 1848). It was constructed of basalt which is said to have been transported from New Zealand as ballast on sailing ships bound for the goldfields. Highlights are the tower and spire, the large roundel window in the west wall and the quality of the interior furnishings, the ironwork ornamentation and the masonry. Turn left into Manifold St. At no.47 is a residence dating from 1870.

Return along Manifold St and turn left, back into Hesse St. To the left is the masonic hall. Turn right into Dennis St, passing the Baptist Church, and turn left off the street into Memorial Square.

Memorial Square
Conceived at the turn of the century, the square was later dedicated as a memorial to those who fought in World War I. It is bounded by Dennis, Murray, Gellibrand and Hesse Sts. An annual foot race is held here in November on the Cliff Young Track, named after the man who, at 61 years of age, won the 1983 Sydney to Melbourne marathon. There are barbecues, toilets, a good children's playground and a rotunda.

Red Rock Scenic Reserve and Lake Corangamite
Red Rock, 230 metres above sea-level, was once a volcano and hence the landscape at this site is scattered with vents, some of which are now crater lakes. The basalt plains around the volcano, known as Stony Rises, were formed by lava flows. Ash deposits formed around the craters and lava jets shot hundreds of metres into the air creating the hills of Red Rock (the colouration is due to the presence of iron). There are two excellent lookouts.

To get there head west of Colac along the Princes Highway for 5 km and turn right at the caravan park, passing through Cororooke and Coragulac. 17 km from Colac is Alvie. Take the signposted left past the picnic area which has toilets, a gas barbecue, water, a playground, a shelter with a fireplace, picnic tables and benches. Adjacent is the Old Shire Pit - a scoria quarry which reveals layers of ash and lava flow.

Beyond the picnic area there is an intersection. The branch road on the left will take you to Eastern Lookout. The most obvious focus in the foreground is Coragulac House, a 26-room mansion with conical towers built in 1873 by George Robertson, the son of early landowner William Robertson who was born at Alvie in Scotland (hence the name of the local settlement). To the south-east are Lake Colac and Colac while Beeac lies to the north-east.

The branch road on the right leads to Western Lookout. In the foreground, to the south, are Lake Werowrap, Lake Gnalingurk and Lake Purdigulac. These lakes were originally volcanic craters which blew lava hundreds of metres into the air.

To the west is Lake Corangamite, Victoria's largest inland lake. With a surface area of 234 square kilometres and a circumference of about 150 km, Lake Corangamite stretches for 32 km in a north-south direction although, even then, it is thought to be a remnant of a much larger body of water. The lake's name is said to be Aboriginal for 'bitter' - a reference to its extreme salinity (three times saltier than seawater). This condition, which discourages the presence of fish, arises because the volume of the streams which feed the lake is insufficient to cause an overflow and so there is no ongoing interchange or flow of waters. It being a rather shallow basin, the water merely evaporates, causing an accumulation of salinity.

Lake Corangamite contains Vaughan Island which is one of the state's few pelican-breeding colonies and home to ibis and swans. On the far side of the lake are the volcanic cones of Mt Porndon, Mt Sugarloaf and Mt Elephant (their positions are marked on a dial at the lookout). To the north of the lookout is a foreground of farmland where potatoes, onions and dairying occur on the rich volcanic soils and a background formed by the Alvie and Warrion Hills.

If you wish to drive past Lake Corangamite, return to Alvie, turn left and keep veering left. This route (visible from the Western Lookout) will take you past the eastern shore then back to the Alvie Road at Coragulac. Turn right to return to the highway.

Floating Island Flora and Fauna Reserve
Floating Island Flora and Fauna Reserve (5 ha) is located in Lake Pirron Yallock which contains a number of small islands that support scrub, reeds, tussock grasses and eucalyptus saplings. However, their notoriety rests mostly in their capacity to change position quite rapidly (some estimates posit shifts of up to 20 metres in a few minutes).

One theory about the development of the lagoon goes like this: it was originally a peat swamp which developed in a depression thought to have been created by an ancient lava flow. It flooded each winter and dried up in the summer. In the centre was an island of peat on which potatoes were grown. In 1938 the peat caught fire and smouldered for several months, lowering the level of the swamp and the island. Then, in 1952, especially heavy rains caused the swamp to fill to a particularly high level. The peat broke away from the basalt floor, complete with its vegetation, and began to float. The seasonal swamp was then turned into a permanent lagoon as the result of nearby roadworks and the clump of peat broke into a series of islets. Wind is thought to be the cause of their motion although another theory suggest that currents are caused by the influx of ground water which, being a different temperature, creates a differential that causes some impetus to occur.

There are 16 species of waterbirds and koalas can be seen in the bushland. Another feature is the dry stone walls which were erected in the 1880s to clear the fields of stone and act as a barrier to rabbit infestation. A nature walk map is available from the information centre.

To get there head west of Colac on the Princes Highway. After about 10 km you will see Lake Corangamite to your right. About 17 km from Colac, opposite the Koala Motel, on the northern side of the highway, is a carpark which is the start of the walking track to the lagoon (a pamphlet relating to this walk is available at the Colac Information Centre).

Irrewarra
Pastoralist John Calvert had this single-storey rubble basalt homestead, with its plastered facade and recessed verandah, erected in the late 1840s. Another wing was added later. The stables also date from the late 1840s. It is possible to undertake a guided tour of the stables and homestead which has been restored in period fashion. There are kangaroos and other animals on the grounds. Irrewarra is only open to groups (ie, coaches) and only by appointment, tel: (03) 5233 6335. Follow the Princes Highway east of Colac for 4 km and turn left into Beeac Rd. About 8 or 9 km from Colac take the signposted right into Ryans Road where you will find the property.

Also in the Irrewarra area, at 152 Drapers Rd, is the Empress Vineyard where a winery is in preparation and a restaurant is now open for business, tel: (03) 5232 1711.

Meredith Park
Slightly further north along Beeac Road (10 km north of Colac) is a turnoff on the left into Meredith Park which is located on the northern bank of Lake Colac. There are fishing areas, toilets, fireplaces and a boat ramp.

Lake Beeac
19 km north of Colac along the Beeac Road is the settlement of Beeac. Turn left here to access the pleasant picnic area at the lake which is so hypersaline that it has a whitish hue.

Tarndwarncoort
The Warncoort station was established in 1841 by Alexander Dennis who began work on Tarndwarncoort homestead in 1848. Around 1880 the family successfully cross-bred merino and Lincoln sheep, thereby creating the Polwarth breed which proved better suited to areas of higher rainfall. A sheep farm is still operating on the property, producing high-grade wool and there is a good wool craft store on the property which sells yarn, spinning wheels, wool dyes, sheepskin rugs and other wool-related items. They also have a holiday cottage.

To get there head east of Colac along the Princes Highway for 12 km then turn right along the road to Birregurra. After 2 km turn right into Warncoort Cemetery Road where you will see the signpost. The store is open by prior appointment, tel: (03) 5233 6241.

Birregurra
Birregurra, 18 km east on the Barwon River, is a small rural hamlet with has some quaint shops with sloping timber verandahs and a history dating back as far as Colac. Davenport Bromfield camped on the future townsite in 1837 though he moved on the following year. In 1839 a Mr and Mrs Tuckfield set up the Buntingdale (Methodist) Aboriginal Mission at Birregurra. It closed in 1848 and the buildings were destroyed by fire three years later. A cairn on nearby farming land marks the spot of the mission. Some remaining bricks were used in the construction of a Methodist church in 1863.

The settlement boomed in the 1850s with the emergence of the timber industry. At that time there were several wine shanties and small pubs. A fine remnant of the town's early days is Christ Church, built of sandstone and basalt in 1870-71. The bell was recovered from the mission buildings. The railway arrived at Birregurra in 1891.

A local home, known as Ripple Vale, was built for Charles Sladen who acted as a stop-gap premier of the state during a political crisis in 1868.

Red Rock Winery
Head south of Colac on the Gellibrand Road (aka the Colac-Lavers Hill Rd) for 12 km then take the right turn (signposted for the winery)into Hoveys Road. 500 m along, to the right, is Red Rock Winery which is open for cellar door sales on weekends, public and school holidays from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5233 8466.

Burton's Lookout
Just beyond the turnoff to the winery is Burton's Lookout, located at the foot of the Otways. It offers views of the hinterland, taking in Lake Colac and the Gellibrand River Valley. There is a picnic area and walking track.

The Old Beechy Line
4 km south of Burtons Lookout (16 km from Colac), on the Gellibrand Road, is a left turn into the Old Beechy Line. The Beechy was a narrow-gauge railway line used to convey timber, potatoes and passengers from Beech Forest and Lavers Hill north to Colac from 1900 to 1960.

The turnoff leads to a picnic area with fireplaces and toilets near the site of the old Birnam station. This is the starting point of a very pleasant and short fern walk along the creek or an 8-km hike along the old railway line (details on these walks are available from the information centre).

Loves Creek Reserve
2 km beyond the turnoff to the Old Beechy Line (18 km south of Colac) is Loves Creek Reserve where there are fireplaces, fresh water, toilets and picnic tables. The creek is stocked with trout.

Gellibrand and Carlisle State Park
7 km south of Loves Creek Reserve (25 km south of Colac) is Gellibrand, a small centre established in the 1880s as a timber town although it was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1886. The town was rebuilt and eventually surveyed in 1902.

Turn off here, heading west through Carlisle State Park (5600 ha) which consists of undeveloped woodland, forest and heathlands which are home to the rare ground parrot. There is a diversity of fauna and wildflowers bloom in spring. A two-day walk through the park has been established, tel: (03) 5233 5567.

Gellibrand Pottery
The Old Beech Forest Road heads south-east out of Gellibrand. 4 km along this road (only the first kilometre is sealed) is Gellibrand Pottery which is open weekends and public and school holidays from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5235 8246.

Otways Drive
To the south of town are the enormous tracts of forest associated with the Otway Ranges. This land was opened for selection in 1869 and, although land was cleared and farms established, much forest remained. It was reserved as state forest in 1899. Sawmills were constructed and timber removed with pine and other softwood plantations established on abandoned farms in the 1930s and 1940s.

The following is a 113-km circular drive through that terrain. Head south along Queen St. Once over the railway crossing take the immediate left into Wallace St. Wallace St becomes the Colac-Forrest Rd. After travelling through 32 km of grazing territory you will find yourself in the timber town of Forrest where there is a pub and an office of the Department of Natural Resources and Environment, tel: (03) 5236 6204. Either can give you directions to Lake Elizabeth which was created in 1953 (the year of Queen Elizabeth's coronation) as the result of a massive landslide. It is home to a number of platypuses and there are camping and picnicking facilities.

Just beyond the settlement turn left into the West Barwon Dam Reserve where there is a carpark, picnic tables and toilets. This dam is the major water supply for Geelong.

Return to the main road and continue south for 7 km to Barramunga. At the school camp turn right to Stevensons Falls and picnic area.

Return again to the main road and continue south for another 9 km and turn left to visit Mt Sabine Fire Tower Reserve, offering outstanding views of the Otways and the coast.

Return again to the main road and continue south for 2 km then turn right onto Turtons Track (the first 7 km are without tarmac but quite manageable in a 2WD) which is a beautiful route through thick rainforest vegetation. 16 km along Turtons Track is Beech Forest. 4 km beyond Beech Forest there is an intersection. One branch leads to Lavers Hill. A right turn will take you back to Colac, via Gellibrand, Loves Creek Reserve, the Old Beechy Line and Burton's Lookout.

	Tourist Information
	Colac Visitor Information Centre Cnr Queen & Murray Sts Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3730
	Motels
	Colac Mid City Motel 289 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3311 or (03) 5231 3333 Rating: ***
	Commercial Motel/Hotel 10 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5777 Rating: **
	Otway Gate Motel 52 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3244 Rating: ***
	Baronga Motor Inn 35 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 2100 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Austral Hotel Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3002
	Colac Hotel Dalton St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 2136
	Union Club Hotel 110 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5644 Rating: *
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Palm View Lodge Bed & Breakfast Forans Rd Barongarook West Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5233 8325 Rating: ***
	The Prince of Wales Guesthouse 2 Murray St East Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3385 Rating: ***
	Wanawong Bed & Breakfast Gelibrand Rd Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5233 8215 Rating: ****
	Caravan Parks
	Central Caravan Park Bruce St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3586 Rating: **
	Colac Caravan Park Princes Hwy Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5337 Rating: **
	Lake Colac Caravan Park 51 Fyans St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5971 Facsimile: (03) 5231 5970 Email: lakecolac@telstra.com Rating: ***
	Restaurants
	Baronga Motor Inn Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 2100
	Commercial Motel/Hotel 10 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5777
	Marble Dragon Restaurant Bromfield St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 4911
	Mid City Colac Motel Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3311
	Otway Gate Motel 52 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 3244
	Sing Bo Chinese Restaurant Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5899
	Union Club Hotel 110 Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 5644
	Wanda Restaurant Cafe Murray St Colac VIC 3250 Telephone: (03) 5231 2604