Buninyong (including Lal Lal)
Victoria's first proclaimed inland town
Buninyong lays claim to being the site of the first
inland town in Victoria. It is located 125 km north-west of Melbourne
and 13 km south of Ballarat via the
Geelong Rd. The name comes from an Aboriginal word, 'Buninyouang', said
to mean 'man lying on his back with his knees raised' - a reference to
the shape of nearby Mt Buninyong when seen from some angles.
In the severe drought of 1837 a party of Scottish
squatters left the Geelong area and headed north in search of superior
sheep and cattle pastures. One of the party, Somerville Learmonth,
climbed Mt Buninyong before returning to Geelong. He returned the
following year with another party including his brother, Thomas
Livingstone Learmonth, to extend the investigation. The Learmonths
initially settled with 2000 ewes on the banks of the Barwon River. By
1839 they had established their home station south of the future
townsite.
A small village began to develop around 1842, consisting
initially of several employees of the Learmonths. With the Learmonths'
permission, a store and eating house was set up and it was soon joined
by a blacksmith and some sawyers and splitters. In 1842 the first hotel
license for an inland hotel was issued to the newly-established Crown
Hotel. The village picked up trade from the bullock teams on the track
to Portland and a post office opened at a local store in 1845. A
Presbyterian minister arrived in 1847 and a boarding school was set up
the following year.
On 8 August 1851 blacksmith Thomas Hiscock struck gold in a
gully 3 km west of the townsite. The area was soon thick with
prospectors and a court of petty sessions was proclaimed at Buninyong
on September 30, with a police camp gazetted there on October 3.
Although no great amount of precious metal was found in the immediate
area, the influx of diggers led to the discovery of massive amounts of
gold at nearby Ballarat and the
goldfields administration was moved to Ballarat one month later.
As at Ballarat, much of the alluvial gold had been recovered
by the 1860s and large-scale deep-lead quartz-reef mines were
established in the area, employing many men. By 1871 there were 2281
people and 20 hotels at Buninyong. The prosperity of the period is
evident in the town's wide main street. Holy Trinity Church was built
in 1861-62 and the railway arrived from Ballarat in 1889.
After the goldrush was over the area reverted to pastoral and
agricultural pursuits. Today Buninyong is part of the Greater City of
Ballarat. Its population is around 1700.
The Buninyong Gold King Festival is held on the third weekend
in February. There are concerts, sporting events, street stalls and a
procession.
Things to see:
Historic Buildings Around the Main Intersection
There is a roundabout at the town's main
intersection where Warrenheip St (the north-south Geelong Road) meets
Learmonth St (the Midland Highway).
The National Bank building on the south-eastern corner dates
from 1867-68. The store on its eastern side was established in 1855. A
little further east are the town hall and courthouse (1886). The
courthouse section has historic displays with a large collection of
photographs and local records. It is open Sundays from 1.30 p.m. to
4.30 p.m.
Cross over Learmonth St and return to the intersection.
The commercial complex of the north-eastern corner incorporates an 1857
general store.
Turn right into Warrenheip St. To the immediate right is the
former Eagle Hotel (1858). Note the ornate facade of the gold-boom era
with its decorative columns and heads.
Cross over Warrenheip St to the Crown Hotel which was
issued the first inland hotel licence in 1842. It therefore claims to
be the oldest continually licensed premises in the state, although the
present Gothic-inspired building dates from 1885 after a fire destroyed
the original.
The hotel is at the corner of De Soza Park, named after Simon
De Soza who made his fortunes on the local goldfields. It was
originally the Buninyong Creek and Tannery Reserve as there was a
tannery on the creek bank to the west. There is a pleasant walking track.
Mechanics' Institute Information Centre
Continue north along Warrenheip St a short distance.
On the left-hand side of the road is the old mechanics' institute
(1861) which was a gift to the town from Robert Allen, the original
owner/manager of the Crown Mine. The mock masonry and timber facade is
thought to have been imported from the UK. This is now a library and
historical reference centre with maps, booklets and information on
local walks and tours. It is open weekends from 1.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.
and sometimes during mid-week.
Historic Walk - Eyre St
Continue north to the Eyre St intersection. On the
north-western corner is a 19th-century shop with an intact facade. The
premises diagonally opposite (the former Whykes Grocery Store) are also
quite old.
Head west along Eyre St. Cross the creek and to the left, at
the Winter St corner, is 'Glencairn', thought to have been built in the
early 1850s by Robert Allen with more recent additions.
Diagonally opposite is 'Clifton Villa'. It was
built in 1859 by the Newmans who based it on the family home in
Bristol. There was originally a ballroom though it was later dismantled
and reassembled elsewhere as a church.
Historic Walk - Learmonth St
Walk south along Winter St to the park, cross the
footbridge over the creek, walk directly across to Learmonth St and
turn left, heading back to the main intersection. To the immediate left
is the house which once belonged to Thomas Hiscock who was the first to
find gold on the Ballarat goldfields.
Just past it is the post office which was built in 1874 after
29 years of operation from local stores.
Over the road, at 405 Learmonth St, is Buninyong
Antiques which is situated in a house thought to have been built in the
1870s. It is constructed of handmade bricks with bluestone foundations
and a bluestone cellar. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.
weekends and public holidays or by appointment.
On the eastern side of Buninyong Antiques is a two-storey
timber house built in the 1890s for a local doctor. The iron panels in
the fence were originally part of the Royal Hotel at Horsham.
Historic
Walk - Warrenheip St South
From the roundabout head south along Warrenheip St. On
the north-western corner of the Warrenheip and Scott St intersection is
'Netherby' which was built prior to 1873. Note the wooden outhouses.
Cross over Scott St. To the right is Holy Trinity
Anglican Church, built 1861-62. The Sunday school hall was erected in
1857 as a common school. Adjacent is the vicarage, constructed in 1857,
although the verandah and cast-iron lacework are later additions. It is
now a private residence.
Continue south a short distance, cross over Yuille St and, to
the right, is the former Wesleyan Church and Hall (1860s). It closed in
1974 and is now in private hands.
Historic Walk - Primary School and
Botanic Gardens
When you come to Simpson St turn left. At Simpson and
Inglis is the primary school, built in 1873 for 500 pupils.
Walk up Inglis St, past the school and bowling club and turn
right into the Buninyong Botanical Gardens. Established in the 1860s
they were designed by Ferdinand Von Mueller who was responsible for
Melbourne's Botanical Gardens. They feature a lake, barbecue
facilities, a children's playground, 1870s swimming baths which have
been converted into a courtyard garden, and the Queen Victoria rotunda (1901).
On the southern edge of the Gardens is the old miners'
court which was built in 1859. It is now used by the school.
Historic Walk - The Gong and Brewery
Walk east through the Botanical Gardens to Cornish
St. On the far side of Cornish St is a lake known as The Gong or Upper
Reservoir. The lake was intended to supply most of the town's water
needs.
On the southern side of the lake (off Cornish St) is the
Buninyong Brewery, built prior to 1857. It is now a private residence.
Historic Walk - Simpson St and Mt
Innes Reserve
Walk south along Cornish St and turn left into
Simpson St. You will soon see, to the left, 'Kings Hill' built in the
1850s for Thomas Shepherd who operated the brewery.
Continue on to the end of Simpson St which reaches a
T-intersection with Lal Lal St. On the far side of Lal Lal St is 'Brim
Brim', built in 1859-60 for a local magistrate.
Head north along Lal Lal St. To the right is Mt Innes,
otherwise known as Hastie's Hill as Reverend Hastie (the town's first
Presbyterian minister) is thought to have established the first
Presbyterian school on this hill which offers views over the town.
Historic Walk - Scott St
Turn left into Scott St then take the first left into
Fisken St. St Peter's and St Paul's Catholic Church was commissioned in
1853 and completed in 1858. It has been considerably altered over the years.
Turn left back into Scott St and follow it along past
the Botanical Gardens to the Inglis St intersection where you will see
the former Presbyterian (now Uniting) church. This Gothic structure was
built in 1860. One of the stained-glass windows depicts Thomas Hastie.
Buggies and horses were once tethered in the large shady yard.
Continue along Scott St for a short distance. To the
left is the Presbyterian manse, built in the 1870s for Thomas Hastie.
At the end of Scott St, to the left, is 'Camellia Cottage'
(1863), thought to have been built by Dr Casey, the grandfather of Lord
Casey, a governor-general of Australia.
Turn right into Warrenheip St and return to the
main intersection.
Buninyong Flora and Bird Park
About 2.5 km north of the main intersection at Buninyong
there is a turnoff on the left into Eddy Ave and at no.408 is Buninyong
Flora and Bird Park which contains 60 parrot aviaries with parrots from
around the world. A 500-metre raised boardwalk leads past rainforest
ferns, a waterfall, waterlilies, orchids, climbers and flowering
natives. There is also a kiosk, a tea room, souvenirs and gifts. It is
open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5341 3843.
Buninyong Cemetery
If you head west of the main intersection along
Learmonth St you will cross a bridge over the creek. On the other side
is a turnoff on the right into Cemetery Rd which leads past the second
registered cemetery in Victoria. There is an information rotunda.
Shops and Galleries
At 217 Learmonth St is Buninyong Gallery, open most
Sundays or by appointment, tel: (03) 5341 3210. Out of the Ordinary is
an arts-and-crafts, jewellery and gift shop at 326 Learmonth St (open
daily), tel: (03) 5341 3683. Buninyong Antiques are at
409 Learmonth St (open weekends and public holidays or by
appointment), tel: (03) 5341 3735, and Andrew Scott Furniture sells
handcrafted timber furniture and collectables. It is open daily, tel:
(03) 5341 3674.
West of town on the Buninyong-Sebastapol Rd are the
Clayfire Gallery which is open daily for sales of pottery, jewellery
and glassware (tel: 03 5341 8163) and Timeless Timber gallery which is
also open daily for sales of handcrafted timber pieces and giftware,
tel: (03) 5341 8318.
Mt Buninyong
Mt Buninyong is an extinct volcano offering
excellent views of the southern part of Central Victoria. To get there
head east of the main intersection for 1.5 km then turn left onto Mt
Buninyong Rd. After another 2 km there is a fork in the road. Keep to
the right and follow the sealed road to the summit which is 1054 metres
above sea-level. Alternatively, there is a car park at the foot of the
mountain and a footpath which winds its way to the summit (45 minutes).
This is the spot from which Europeans first surveyed the Ballarat
district in 1837. There is a lookout tower from whence it is possible
to see the Grampians and, on a clear day, the ocean. There is a picnic
area in the crater.
Lal Lal, Historic Blast Furnace and Bungal Dam
Head south-east from Buninyong along the Midland Highway
for 12 km and take the left onto the Clarendon-Lal Lal Rd (signposted
for Lal Lal Falls). It is 4 km to the hamlet of Lal Lal where the Lal
Lal Falls Hotel, bluestone railway station and railway water tower are
of historic interest.
Once you drive across the railway line you are on Lal Lal
Falls Rd. Take the first bitumen road on the right (known as Ironmine
or Bungal Tap Rd) which should be signposted for the dam if not the
blast furnace. The bitumen peters out after about 2 km. You will soon
see a parking and picnic-barbecue area with information boards in a
bush setting from whence it is possible to see the dam spillway.
A walking track leads to the Lal Lal Blast Furnace
which is considered an industrial site of great historical significance
by the National Trust. The Lal Lal Blast Furnace has three claims to
our attention (a) it is now the only example of its type of blast
furnace from the colonial era (b) it is the only 19th century blast
furnace in the Southern Hemisphere (c) by world standards it is a
superb example of a 19th century blast furnace.
An iron ore quarry on the west bank of the Moorabool River
and the smelting works were established by the Lal Lal Iron Mining
Company in 1874. At its peak 160 men were employed at these works which
initially supplied a booming Ballarat with iron for the production of
mining machinery and railway locomotives. Some were Cornish miners who
were invited to Australia because of their industrial experience.
Charcoal from local timber, brown coal from the
area and Ballarat coke were all used as fuel for the smelting process.
The stone and brick blast furnace which remains was the third on the
site, being built in 1880-81. It produced 2260 tonnes of pig iron from
4429 tonnes of ore before the venture folded in 1884 due to a fall in
prices and declining demand from Ballarat.
Remnants include the furnace, a Cornish flue, a
tramway bed, mines, machinery sites, stone quarries and charcoal sites.
These elements are situated in five hand-hewn terraces which were cut
into the side of the hill. The furnace was situated on the lowest level
with a steam engine, boiler, pumps and other machinery on the next two
strata and stone sheds and stockpiles on the top two levels.
From the first parking area you will plainly see a
track which leads down to another parking area from whence there are
superior views of the dam.
Lal Lal Falls
Return along Ironmine Road and turn right, back into
Lal Lal Falls Rd which leads straight to the falls, situated on the
Moorabool River tributary. They drop 34 metres down a gorge, which was
created by the collapse of a lava tunnel, into a tranquil pool below.
The local Kooris are said to have believed that Bunjil, their creator,
resided at this place. The name is thought to be Aboriginal for
'dashing of waters'. It is no longer possible to walk right down to the
base of the falls but there are fine views from the higher elevation.
Whitehorse Wines
Whitehorse Wines, established in 1990, is situated on
the Whitehorse Range at Mt Clear. It produces pinot noir, chardonnay,
cabernet/shiraz and riesling and is open weekends and public holidays
from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. or by appointment, tel: (03) 5330 1719. To
get there head north from the main intersection at Buninyong along
Geelong Rd (Warrenheip St). After 4 km take the signposted left into
Reid Park Rd which heads west off the main road, opposite Greenhill Rd
which heads east. There are picnic and barbecue facilities.
Mt Buninyong Winery
Mt Buninyong Winery, established in 1993, is located
in Platts Rd at Scotsburn. It produces shiraz, cabernet sauvignon,
chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, colombard, muscat and liqueur
chardonnay. The cellar door is open weekends and public holidays from
9.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. or by appointment, tel: (03) 5341 8360. Just
follow the Midland Highway south-east of Buninyong for 5 km and turn
right at the Scotsburn school (just watch for the winery sign).
| |
Hotels
|
| |
| |
The Crown Hotel
Warrenheip St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5141 3402
|
| |
| |
Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
|
| |
| |
Mt Buninyong Bed & Breakfast
Hogarths Rd
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 3595
Rating: ****
|
| |
| |
| |
Nandana Bed & Breakfast
Hogarths St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 2229
Facsimile: (03) 5341 2229
Rating: ****1/2
|
| |
| |
Cottages & Cabins
|
| |
| |
Ballarat Coach House
102 Somerville St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 3615
Facsimile: (03) 5341 3615
Rating: ****
|
| |
| |
Restaurants
|
| |
| |
Buninyong Cake Shop & Devonshire Teas
Learmonth St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 8026
|
| |
| |
| |
Buninyong Crown Hotel & Bistro
Warrenheip St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 3402
|
| |
| |
| |
Cafe Pasha
409 Warrenheip St
Buninyong
VIC
3357
Telephone: (03) 5341 2543
|
| |