The Nut from the west side of Stanley

Stanley
Important and interesting historic town on the north-west coast.
Stanley is the last major township on the north-west coast of Tasmania. Located 22 km from Smithton, 127 km from Devonport and 231 km from Launceston, it is a classified historic town full of beautifully preserved buildings.

As you approach Stanley you see The Nut rising like a strange box above the bay. There is a plaque at the lookout on the southern side of Sawyer Bay. It reads: 'The Nut, discovered by Bass and Flinders in 1798, rises abruptly 143 m from the sea to a flattish top. The geological survey of Tasmania has confirmed that The Nut is the stump of an old volcano. The original core was built of fragments mainly volcanic rock ejected by explosive eruptions. Molten basaltic lava welled up the feeder pipe and in places intruded into these fragmental rocks and formed a lava lake in the crater where it solidified. As it cooled the basalt became weakly magnetised in the direction of the local magnetic field of that time. The direction and dip of this fossil magnetisation is quite different from the present magnetic field and suggests that the volcano was active during some period between 25 and 70 million years ago. Weathering and erosion since has removed all the weak rocks which built the cone so that the hard basalt of the lava pool now stands up as a conspicuous landmark. If you modelled a cone and crater in sand and half filled the crater with molten iron through a pipe from below then jetted the sand away with a hose you would get the picture.'

Stanley is the main fishing port on the north west coast of Tasmania. It was named after Lord Stanley, the British Secretary of State for the Colonies in the 1840s. The first European to see 'The Nut' was Matthew Flinders who in 1798 recorded that he had seen a 'cliffy round lump resembling a Christmas cake'.

The history of Stanley is the history of the Van Diemen's Land company. In 1825 the Van Diemen's Land company formed in England was granted the rights by Royal Charter to a huge tract of unsettled land to raise fine wool sheep on a large scale. Circular Head, commonly known as 'The Nut', was chosen as the centre of operations. Stud livestock, implements, craftsmen and indentured labourers from England along with convicts assigned locally were landed nearby in October 1826. Despite directions to the contrary, the Aboriginal occupants of the area were at times badly treated by company agents resulting in large numbers of murders and their eventual disappearance. Under Edward Curr as chief agent the company explored, surveyed and developed the northwest. It was from Stanley that the foundations of centres such as Burnie (named after a company director) were laid. Distances were so great, and transport so slow, that if Curr wanted to change some standard procedure he was lucky if he got approval in under eight months given that the company was based in London.

The company's development of the town was relatively slow. While the port was opened in 1827, the town wasn't surveyed until the mid-1840s and the first school wasn't opened until 1841. In 1880 the first coach service between Stanley and Burnie was established. It took 6-7 hours to make the journey.

Today Stanley has become a popular tourist destination. It has large numbers of craft shops, tea houses, potteries and galleries - most of which are housed in the numerous local historic houses.

Things to see:  

Climbing the Nut
It is a bit like climbing Uluru. If you visit Stanley you really should climb The Nut. But don't be fooled it is a steep and difficult walk that requires fitness and commitment. A more pleasant option is to take the Stanley Chairlift. The lookout is only a few minutes walk away. Every time I have gone to the top of The Nut (always by chairlift) it has been very windy. Be warned. Not surprisingly the view is excellent. It is also worth registering that as late as the mid-1850s The Nut was heavily wooded. The trees were removed and it was used as grazing land until the 1990s.

Exploring the town
Stanley has a huge number of historic buildings. The most sensible starting point for any exploration of the town is to visit the Discovery Centre Folk Museum in Church Street which has maps and information. Contact (03) 6458 1145.

Plough Inn

St James Presbyterian Church
An early example of a prefabricated building imported from England. A meeting to discuss the creation of a Presbyterian Church was held on 9 November 1853. It was agreed to buy the church from the 'old country' and consequently the church was purchased. We know exactly how much it cost from the records which reveal:

Purchase of church in London: £145
Agency charges, insurance £12/10/-
Freight to colony £52/13/6
Freight - Launceston to Stanley £10
Extra timber £25
Nails, paint etc £22/19/6
Cost of erection £105.

Plough Inn
Built in 1842 it was the Plough Inn until 1876 when the license lapsed. It later became a dispensary and a branch of the National Bank of Tasmania. In recent times it has been restored and furnished with antiques. It is open to the public.

Laughton House
This is a fully restored Edwardian house in Alexander Street. It was built in 1906 by the local solicitor Kenric Laughton and occupied by the Laughton family until 1984. It has excellent views over Tatlow Beach and is characterised by large rooms with ornate fire places. It is now used as an accommodation destination.

Van Diemens Land Store

Van Diemen's Land Store
The Van Diemens Land Company Store in Stanley was designed by John Lee Archer in 1843-44. It is constructed of bluestone which came to Stanley as ballast in ships. Archer, who designed and built the Store, also worked in Stanley as the Chairman of Quarter Sessions, the Commissioner under the Electoral Act and the Assistant Commissioner of the Court of Requests.

Lyons Cottage
Located in Church Street, this is where the honourable J. A. Lyons was born in 1879. He became Tasmania's first Prime Minister of Australia (1932-39) after being the State's Premier from 1921-28. The cottage is simple and unpretentious. The Lyons family moved to Stanley from Ulverstone in the mid-1880s. The Cottage is open to the public and contains a number of interesting items of memorabilia.

Lyons Cottage

Highfield Historic Site
In 1825 the Van Diemen's Land company formed in England was granted the rights by Royal Charter to a huge tract of unsettled to raise fine wooled sheep on a large scale. Circular Head, where Highfield is located, was ultimately chosen as the centre of operations. Stud livestock, implements, craftsmen and indentured labourers from England along with convicts assigned locally were landed nearby in October 1826. Highfield, located 6 km west of Stanley, was designed by Henry Hellyer for Edward Curr. Construction was commenced late in May 1832 and the end result was a house with 61cm thick walls, 12 rooms and ceilings 3.65 metres high. Later additions to Highfield were designed by J. Lee Archer and built during 1844-45 for the company's second agent, James Alexander Gibson. Convict barracks, barns, stables (1836-37), chapel (1838-42) and large ornamental gardens are features of the estate.

Highfield House

The property was leased in 1857 and became an historic site under the management of the National Parks and Wildlife Service in 1983. It is well worth visiting and the road out to Highfield offers superb views of Stanley and The Nut. There is an excellent and detailed brochure available which provides additional information.

A Recommendation from a Reader
While in Stanley it was my birthday and my wife asked a local for a restaurant recommendation. I had a superb birthday dinner at Stanley's on the Bay where the food was beautifully presented and tasted just as good. It would compete well with any capital city restaurant.

Graham Weston

Brisbane

	Tourist Information
	Nut Chairlift & Information Centre Brown's Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1286
	Motels
	Dovecote Motel & Restaurant Dovecote Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1300, 1800 062 298 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1448 Rating: ***1/2
	Stanley Village Motel 13 Wharf St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1404 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1403 Rating: ****
	Hotels
	Union Hotel 19 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1161 Rating: *
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Hanlon House Bed & Breakfast 6 Marshall St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1149 or 0419 529 145 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1257 Rating: ****1/2
	Old Cable Station Bed & Breakfast West Beach Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1312
	Philately House Bed & Breakfast 11-13 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1109 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1109 Rating: ****
	Stanley Guesthouse 27 Main Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1488 Rating: ****
	Apartments
	Anthonys at Highfield Green Hills Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1245 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1286 Rating: ***1/2
	Pol and Pen Apts 8 Pearse St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1186 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1290 Rating: ***
	Cottages & Cabins
	Abbey's Cottage 1 Marshall St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1186 or 0419 581 183 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1290 Rating: ****1/2
	Bayside Colonial Cottage 4 Alexander Tce Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1209 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1209 Rating: ****
	Beachside Retreat West Inlet 253 Stanley Hwy Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1350 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1350 Email: westinlet@tassie.net.au Rating: *****
	Captains Cottage 30 Alexander Tce Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1109 Rating: ****
	Dovecote Cottages Dovecote Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1300 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1488 Rating: ***1/2
	Ellie's Cottage 9 Main Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 2038 Facsimile: (03) 6458 2038
	Estowen House 35 Main Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1186 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1290 Rating: ***
	Gateforth Country Cottages Black River Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 3230 Facsimile: (03) 6458 3237 Email: gateforth.cottages@tassie.net.au Rating: ***
	Ride Cottage 12 Pearse St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1137 Rating: ****
	Stanley Cabin & Tourist Park Wharf Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1266 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1266 Rating: ****
	The Town House - Stanley 4 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1455 Rating: ****
	The Town House-Stanley 4 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1485 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1455 Rating: ****
	Touchwood Cottage 31 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1348 Facsimile: (03) 6458 2066 Rating: ****
	Farm & Eco Holidays
	Myrtle Brook Host Farm "Myrtle Brook" Wiltshire Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 3174 Rating: ***
	Caravan Parks
	Stanley Cabin & Tourist Park Wharf Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1266 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1266 Rating: ****
	Restaurants
	Dovecote Restaurant & Coffee Shop Dovecote Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1300
	Hursey Seafoods 2 Alexandra Tce Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1103
	Michael'sRestaurant 25 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1144
	Stanleys on the Bay 15 Wharf Rd Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1404 Facsimile: (03) 6458 1403
	Cafés
	Stranded Whale Coffee Shop 6 Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1202
	The Nut Rock Cafe 15 Wharf Rd Nut Reserve Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1186
	The Swingin' Anchor Cafe 4A Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1455
	Ye Olde Chocolate Shoppe & Cafe 4B Church St Stanley TAS 7331 Telephone: (03) 6458 1455