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View from the Commissariat
Store to the Asst. Superintendant's Quarters (1849)
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Maria Island
Lonely and historically significant island off
the east coast.
Maria Island is steeped in history. This wild and
rugged island which is over 20 km long and 13 km wide is characterised
by sheer cliffs tumbling into the sea, jagged rocky outcrops (Mount
Maria rises to 710 m and 'the Bishop and Clerk' reaches 915 m),
extensive fossil deposits and interesting ruins of the nineteenth
century penal settlement.
The first European to sight Maria Island was Abel
Tasman in December 1642. It was Tasman who, having named the main
island after Anthony Van Diemen, the Governor-in-Chief of the Dutch
East India Company in Batavia, named this small east coast island,
Maria, after the Governor-in-Chief's wife.
The first Englishman to land on the island was Captain
John Cox who arrived in 1789, anchored at Shoal Bay, and made contact
with the local Aborigines. Three years later the French explorer,
Nicholas Baudin, spent five days investigating the island. The
diversity of these early explorers is summed up by the variety of names
given to the coastline - everything from Ile du Nord to Chinaman's Bay,
Mistaken Cape and Cape Boulanger.
The island has experienced four distinct periods of
European settlement. The first 'settlers' were whalers and sealers who
lived a hard and temporary life on the island in the early nineteenth
century. They viciously exploited the local Aborigines while plundered
the local seal population.
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The Commissariat Store
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In 1825 the sealers
gave way to a penal colony (the second to be established in Van
Diemen's Land) established by Governor George Arthur to ease the
ever-increasing pressure on Hobart Town.
Arthur sent 50 convicts, accompanied by a superintendent
and a small party of soldiers, to the island. Although their stay was
relatively short (the colony closed in 1832 after the larger prison at
Port Arthur was established) they built a number of buildings of which
only the Commissariat Store and the prisoner's barracks, known as the
Penitentiary, still stand. Located at Darlington they were built of
local stones and bricks. Both buildings have a solidity which makes
them look as though they will survive for another thousand years.
At this time the island was leased to Charles Seal but,
when the number of convicts arriving in Van Diemen's Land dramatically
increased in the early 1840s, Lieutenant-Governor Franklin repaired the
original buildings and reopened the island as a penal colony.
The second period of convict settlement started in
1842 and it was during this period that the island's population
expanded dramatically. A second convict station was established at
Point Lesueur, over 800 convicts arrived on the island, and an
extensive building program was commenced.
Again the settlement was short-lived. It was
abandoned for the last time in 1851 and a few farmers arrived to take
advantage of the good sheep pastures and the mild climate.
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The Coffee Palace and Penitentiary
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In 1884 Maria
Island began a new phase in its history when an Italian silk merchant,
Diego Bernacchi, leased the entire island. Bernacchi was a dreamer who,
attracted by the mild climate and good soils, decided to turn Maria
Island into a Mediterranean paradise. He planted 50 000 vines (one of
his wines came third in the 1888 Melbourne Centennial Exhibition) and
built a 30-room Grand Hotel and Coffee Palace.
So enthusiastic was Bernacchi that he attracted a
State School (now used as the Ranger's office), general store, butcher
and baker to the island. The project failed and Bernacchi abandoned the
island around 1895. Undeterred he returned in 1920 to build a pier and
railway line to exploit the island's deposits of cement.
Like every other activity on the island, the cement
works was short-lived. By 1930 the cement works lay silent and the
farmers had, once again, quietly assumed economic preeminence. In 1972
the whole island became a National Park.
Maria Island is located 88 km north-east of Hobart via
the Tasman Highway. Access to the island is gained by travelling 7 km
north of Orford to the Eastcoaster Resort.
Things to see:
Ferry Service
A ferry runs from Triabunna at 9.30 a.m. seven days a
week from 1 September to Easter. It returns from Maria Island at 4.30
p.m. Current cost $25 for adults return, $12 for children under 15 and
bicycles $2.00. For more information contact 0427 100 104.
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The painted rocks, a major
attraction on Maria Island
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Bushwalking and Exploring
Today the island's main inhabitants are
enthusiastic bushwalkers and a diversity of wildlife including the
Forester kangaroo (an introduced species), Bennets and Rufous wallaby,
Cape Barren geese, and a large number of migratory birds.
The impact of settlement and industry has virtually
disappeared from the island. Many of the convict buildings, as well as
the ill-fated Grand Hotel, have been dismantled.
In 1992 the Sydney Morning Herald travel writer
Monique Farmer observed that: 'The 20th century has barely touched the
island. The only vehicles belong to the rangers. There are no shops,
few modern conveniences. Camping facilities are basic. There are no
showers or hot water. There are a few camping sites to choose from, or
people can stay in the old prisoner's barracks, The Penitentiary. Each
cabin contains bunks with mattresses and a wooden stove for heating.
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The painted rocks, a major
attraction on Maria Island
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'Although there is a
barbecue area, campers are advised to bring their own portable stoves.
Campers explore the island on foot or bicycle. The main activities are
bushwalking, swimming and, for the more adventurous, diving and rock
climbing. Despite all this, or perhaps because of it, Maria Island
generally has 120 to 200 campers a night over the summer and Easter holidays.'
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Holiday Homes & Units
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Lands, Parks and Wildlife Penitentiary Units (no electricity or hot water
Maria Island
TAS
7190
Telephone: (03) 6257 1420
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Caravan Parks
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Darlington Camping Ground (no electricity or hot water)
Maria Island
TAS
7190
Telephone: (03) 6257 1420
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