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Fisherman on the wharf at
Bruny Island
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Bruny Island
(including Adventure Bay)
Historically significant and interesting island
south of Hobart
Bruny Island's history is, in many ways, the history
of Tasmania. It was inhabited for thousands of years by Aborigines
before Abel Tasman, the first European in the region, sailed along its
shore.
Today Bruny Island has become a popular day trip from Hobart.
It is only 37 km via the A6 to Kettering where the vehicular ferry to
Roberts Point on North Bruny departs ten times a day, eleven on Friday
and eight times on Sundays. With a range of activities for visitors and
a number of unpretentious accommodation destinations the island seems
far removed from any kind of overt commercialisation.
Bruny Island is about 50 km long. It is
really two islands linked by a narrow isthmus of sand dunes called 'The
Neck'. The first European to visit the island was Abel Tasman who
sailed his ships, the Zeehaen and Heenskerck, along the coast in
November 1642 and briefly entered Adventure Bay. He attempted to land
but was prevented by inclement weather.
In 1773 Tobias Furneaux, who was exploring the
coastline with Captain James Cook, anchored his vessel, the Adventure
(after whom the island's main bay has been named), off the island's
coast. Four years later on 26 January 1777 Cook sailed the Resolution
and Discovery into Adventure Bay and stayed for two days. His contact
with the Aborigines who lived on the island was amicable.
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Adventure Bay where Captain
Cook landed
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In 1788 Captain
Bligh anchored the Bounty in Adventure Bay and planted some seeds. It
is claimed that Bligh was responsible for the first apple tree on the
'Apple Isle'. He returned in 1792. In spite of all these visits it was
the French explorer, Bruni D'Entrecasteaux, who gave his name to both
the island and the channel which separates Bruny Island from the
mainland. The spelling of the island from Bruni to Bruny was changed in 1918.
Apart from Adventure Bay, the island's other tiny
settlements are Lunawanna and Alonnah which are names probably derived
from the Aboriginal name for the island - Lunawanna-alonna.
In the early part of the nineteenth century
Bruny Island was subject to the peculiar pressures which eventually
resulted in the near genocide of the local Aborigines. By 1804 whalers
and sealers were in the area. It was commonplace for them to take
Aboriginal women hostage and use them both as labourers and sexual companions.
The story of Truganini's early life (she was a
native of Bruny Island and her father had been an important elder) and
her treatment at the hands of the Europeans is emblematic of the
treatment of Tasmanian Aborigines. By the time she was seventeen she'd
been raped (and probably contracted syphilis), her mother had been
stabbed to death, her uncle had been shot, her stepmother had been
kidnapped by mutinous convicts who took her to China, her sisters had
been enslaved by sealers, and her betrothed had been murdered.
It is the story of the death of the man she was
betrothed to which gives an insight into the brutality of this early
period of Bruny Island's history. In my book Blood on the Wattle: the
Massacre and Maltreatment of Aborigines since 1788, the story is
recounted: 'Perhaps the most devastating event in Truganini's life
occurred shortly after she agreed to marry a man called Paraweena. At
the time Truganini was wont to visit the convict camps around Bruny
Island. Paraweena, accompanied by a friend, came to call her back from
the camp. The convicts protested: they wanted Truganini to stay.
Eventually two convicts, Paddy Newell and Watkin Lowe, both of whom had
reputations for viciousness, agreed that Truganini could leave. They
even offered to row the three Aborigines across the narrow stretch of
water to North Bruny Island. Halfway across the channel Newell and Lowe
overpowered Paraweena and his friend and threw them overboard. As the
two men attempted to clamber back into the boat one of the white men
grabbed a hatchet which had been lying in the bottom of the boat and
lashed out at Paraweena. He cut his hand off at the wrist. Then he
turned and did the same to Paraweena's friend. Newell and Lowe rowed
away, leaving the two injured men to drown.'
In 1829 the so-called Protector of Aborigines, George
Augustus Robinson, set up an Aboriginal settlement near Great Bay on
Bruny Island. It was here that Truganini first met Robinson. She was to
accompany him until his death. It was fitting that in 1975 the ashes of
Truganini were finally scattered in D'Entrecasteaux Channel.
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Bruny Island from Mt Wellington
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From the 1830s
until recent times the island was used variously for timber, apple
orchards, and sheep and cattle grazing.
Today Bruny is a quiet island with a population of
about 600 people who, if not connected with tourism, are farmers. The
island, which has an area of 36 210 ha, varies considerably with the
northern section being flat grazing land and the southern section being
rather hilly and heavily timbered.
The car ferry from the mainland arrives at Roberts
Point (named after a man who operated a soap and salt factory on the
island in 1825) and from there it is possible to travel around the
island's 225 km of road.
The Bruny Island Surf Classic is held each year in February.
Things to see:
Cape Bruny Lighthouse
The most important historic attraction on the
island is the Cape Bruny lighthouse (at the south of the island) which
dates from 1836. It is the third-oldest Commonwealth lighthouse in
Australia. Still operating today (albeit with a tungsten halogen lamp),
it is 19 metres high with an elevation of 105 metres and a range of 26
nautical miles.
Adventure Bay - Walks
Adventure Bay Road runs off the Main Road, following
the coast past Adventure Bay to East Cove, at the north-eastern end of
the South Island. This area was used by whalers from at least the late
1820s until the early 1840s. Archaeological excavations have uncovered
a well-constructed stone rubble whaling quarters and other structures.
Coolangatta Road runs west off Adventure Bay Road
past the start of a 90-minute return trek to the panoramic views
associated with Mt Mangana.
Further along Adventure Bay Road there is another turnoff
into Lockleys Rd. Follow the latter then turn into Resolution Road past
the signposted start of The Mavista Nature Walk. This easy 30-minute
amble passes through rainforest and fern glade adjacent Water Fall
Creek. Information boards contain details of the island's forest
history and plants are identified by markers.
Adventure Bay Road ends at a carpark at East Cove where there
is an information board. Just along the beach is the start of the
coastal track to Grassy Point (90 minutes return). Mostly covering flat
terrain, this is appropriate for families and traverses dry forest. At
the right time of the year, southern right whales can be seen swimming
along the coastline.
The steep, challenging and lengthy Fluted Cape walk can be
commenced either at the East Cove carpark or at Grassy Point. It offers
fine coastal views and exploration of dry forest environs.
Other Walks
At the southern end of the North Island the Cape Queen
Elizabeth Walk (3 hours return) heads off the Main Road out to the
coast, past Big Lagoon, Little Lagoon, coastal heathland settings and
some fine views.
At the south-western end of the South Island, to the north of
Cape Bruny, is the Labillardiere Peninsula. Old Jetty Road leads out to
the start of the Luggobine Circuit walk (moderate, 90 minutes) and the
longer and quite demandingLabillardiere Peninsula Walk (seven hours
return), taking in heathlands, beaches, dry forests, Mount
Bleak,exposed coastline and fine coastal views of Partridge Island.
Finally, the East Cloudy Head Walk (a demanding 4-hour
trek) takes in panoramic views, heathlands and birds.
Memorials on the Island
Around Adventure Bay are a number of memorials
including one to the early explorers in the shape of a square rigged
ship, a memorial to Captain Furneaux (opposite the caravan park) and a
Bicentennial Memorial to Cook which is near the far end of the road
around Adventure Bay.
Labillardiere State Reserve
But, for all its history, it is the natural beauty of
Bruny Island which is really captivating. The beaches are impossibly
white, the waters (on a clear day) are wonderfully blue, and the road
winds from one bay to the next.
The Labillardiere State Reserve on South Bruny has been
listed by the National Estate. The listing gives an indication of the
appeal of the area 'Labillardiere carries a diverse selection of its
vegetation, including structures of open forest, eucalypt woodland,
open woodland, scrub/heath associations, shrubland, open shrubland,
hummock grassland, herbland and closed herbland. Wildflowers grow in
great profusion and giant trees thrive in the forests...It provides a
representation of southern Tasmanian flora and fauna in a largely
pristine condition.'
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Hotels
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Bruny Hotel
Bruny Main Rd
Alonnah
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1148
Rating: **
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Holiday Homes & Units
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970 Adventure Bay Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1389
Rating: ***
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Lumeah
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1265
Rating: ***
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Adventure Bay Accommodation
1005 Main Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Email: info@brunyisland.biz
Rating: ***
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Adventure Bay Villas
4 Kellaway Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
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Alonnah The Don
19 Stewart St
Alonnah
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Apollo Bay Waterfront Retreat
11 Mulchays Rd
Apollo Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
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Barnes Bay Holiday Villa
315 Missionary Rd
Barnes Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6260 6287
Rating: ***1/2
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Bruny Island Retreat
Sawdust Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 0407 001 262 or 0428 138 262
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Hilltop Retreat
Jannali Rd
Alonnah
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Mandala
Sheepwash
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 0427 560 790
Rating: ****
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Morrella Island Retreats
46 Adventure Bay Rd
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1131
Facsimile: (03) 6293 1137
Rating: ****
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Ritchie Retreat
Rithcie Rd
Alonnah
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Cottages & Cabins
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Adventure Bay Eco Village
Cookville
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Bay Terrace
Lunawanna
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Blackwood Cottage
Lorkins Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1015
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Captains Cabin
Bligh Point
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
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Daisy Banks
Davis Rd
Half Moon Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
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Explorers' Cottages
Lighthouse Rd
Luwanna
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1271
Rating: ***
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Inala Country Accommodation
Cloudy Bay
Lunawanna
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1217
Rating: ***
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Mangana Mountain Cottages
Bruny Island
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
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Mavista Spa Cottages
120 Resolution Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1347
Facsimile: (03) 6293 1347
Rating: ****
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Morella Cottages (The Shed & The Cockpit)
46 Adventure Bay Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1131
Facsimile: (03) 6293 1137
Rating: ****
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St Clairs Luxury Accommodation Just for Two
Lunawanna
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 5255 5147 or 0405 192 892
Rating: ***
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The Tree House
Bruny Island
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 5255 5147 or (0405) 192 892
Email: thetreehouse@iprimus.com.au
Rating: ****
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Lodges & Chalets
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Serena Lodge
35 Serena Rd
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: 1300 889 557
Rating: ***
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Caravan Parks
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Adventure Bay Holiday Village
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1270
Facsimile: (03) 6293 1572
Rating: ***1/2
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Captian James Cook Memorial Caravan Park
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1128
Facsimile: (03) 6293 1128
Rating: ***1/2
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Restaurants
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Bruny Island Hotel
Main Rd
Alonnah
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1170
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Bruny Island Smoke House
Roberts Point
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6260 6344
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Cafés
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Hot House Cafe
Simpson Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1131
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Penquin Cafe
Adventure Bay
Bruny Island
TAS
7150
Telephone: (03) 6293 1352
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