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The ruins of the town of
Farina north of Lyndhurst
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Lyndhurst
(including Farina)
Historic railway town - now nearly a ghost town
Located 606 km north of Adelaide, Lyndhurst is an
historic old railway town which is now nothing more than a few
buildings at the crossroads of the Strzelecki and Oodnadatta Tracks.
It is claimed that the Strzelecki Track was pioneered
by Harry Redford's famous exercise in cattle duffing which started near
Muttaburra in western Queensland.
Redford was born in the Hawkesbury River district
of New South Wales in 1842. It is likely that his father was the
convict, Thomas Redford, who had arrived in Australia in 1826. By the
time he was a teenager Redford was working as a drover and by 1870 he
was in Central Western Queensland working on the vast Bowen Downs
station which, at the time, covered 1.75 million acres.
At the time Bowen Downs was running a herd of about 70 000
cattle and Redford felt that the station owners wouldn't even know if
they were a thousand short on muster. Redford knew that if he stole the
cattle (all of which had been branded) that he couldn't sell them in
Queensland or New South Wales. So he devised a plan to drove the cattle
down the Cooper Creek into South Australia. To understand how daring
this plan was it is worth remembering that Burke and Wills had died
attempting to make a similar journey only nine years earlier.
Amazingly Redford was successful. He drove the cattle
1300 km to the Blanche Water station in northern South Australia where
he sold them for £5000. However the loss was noted and in February
1871 Redford was arrested and taken to Roma to be tried. The charge was
'that Redford, in March 1870, at Bowen Downs station, feloniously did
steal 100 bullocks, 100 cows, 100 heifers, 100 steers, one white bull,
the property of Morehead and Young.'
From the outset the trial had the elements of an
entertainment rather than a serious investigation. Locals, captivated
by Redford's consummate bushcraft and daring, packed the courtroom. The
white bull stood in a yard outside the courthouse. Fortyone of
the fortyeight people called as possible jurors were dismissed
because they were prejudiced. The white bull took part in a line up
with twenty other bulls and was immediately identified by his owner.
The evidence against Redford was overwhelming. The
defence offered no witnesses and complained that Redford had been
gaoled without trial.
The jury retired for an hour and then delivered their
verdict. The court transcript reads as follows:
Judge: What is your verdict?
Foreman of the Jury: We find the prisoner 'Not Guilty'.
Judge: What?
Foreman of the Jury: Not guilty.
Judge: I thank God, gentlemen, that the verdict is
yours, not mine!
It was an example of admiration of bushcraft
overwhelming justice and on 5 April 1873 the governor of Queensland
ordered that the criminal jurisdiction of the District Court at Roma be
withdrawn for two years.
As a result of Redford's 'pioneering' work the
Strzelecki Track was opened up and droving down the Cooper Creek to the
railhead in South Australia became commonplace.
Things to see:
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Talc Alf with some of his
talc carvings at Lyndhurst
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Talc Alf
There is very little in Lyndhurst apart from the now
famous, thanks to numerous magazine and TV pieces, Talc Alf who, apart
from producing some quite interesting, if very stylised, carvings in
talc stone, has a highly eccentric explanation for the origins of the
alphabet. He has a sheet which explains all his theories but you'll get
the idea by knowing that his explanation for the letter 'B' is that it
is the second letter in the alphabet and it is the symbol for women.
'A' is for man and 'B' is for woman - women come second in his pecking
order. No sexism here. And that 'B' on its side is a visual depiction
of a women's breasts. One presumes that lower case 'b' indicates one
breasted Amazons. The theory is strong on entertainment value and
sexism and rather weak on logic and common sense. Oh, and by the way,
when you combine A (man) and B (woman) with 'original' you get, wait
for it, Aboriginal - the first men and women.
One of Talc Alf's inspired creations is a new
Australian flag where the red, black and gold Aboriginal flag simply
replaces the Union Jack.
Talc Alf, his real name is Cornelius Alferink, is
located a couple of kilometres out of Lyndhurst on the Innaminka Road.
His shop is very clearly signposted.
Ochre Cliffs
5 km north of the town there is a tyre beside the road
with the words 'Ochre Cliffs' crudely written on it. A road heads off
the main track to the west for a couple of kilometres before reaching a
remarkable quarry which is a feast of harsh desert colours - reds, and
yellows and browns. It was an important site for the local Aborigines
and it is believed that ochre quarried here was traded with other
groups of Aborigines who lived hundreds of kilometres away.
Farina
28 km north of Lyndhurst
is the ghost town of Farina which is now nothing more than a
fascinating collection of ruins with the surrounding countryside
littered with old drays, wheels and rusting pieces of equipment. It is
strange, while wandering around the ruins, to think that in 1891 the
famous French novelist, Jules Verne, wrote a novel titled Mistress
Branican in which he depicted a futuristic Farina (the name is Latin
for flour) with broad boulevards and gracious squares. Not all of
Verne's science fiction predictions were to become realities.
The town did actually grow to a decent size and in
before the copper and silver mine closed in 1927 it had a population of
around 600. It was also the northern most point in South Australia
where wheat was grown. There is no proper signpost at Farina. The only
sign is a mailbox beside the road with Farina written on it.
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Tourist Information
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Flinders Ranges & Outback Information
Lyndhurst
SA
Telephone: 1800 633 060
Facsimile: (08) 8223 3995
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Hotels
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Lyndhurst Siding Hotel
Main Rd
Lyndhurst
SA
5731
Telephone: (08) 8675 7781
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Caravan Parks
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Farina Camp Ground
Farina Station
Lyndhurst
SA
5731
Telephone: (08) 8675 7790
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Restaurants
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Lyndhurst Siding Hotel
Main Rd
Lyndhurst
SA
5731
Telephone: (08) 8675 7781
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