Moreton Island (including Russell Island, Macleay Island, Lamb
Island and Karragarra Island)
Popular day tripper destination to the east of
central Brisbane.
To the east of Brisbane lies Moreton Bay which
Captain James Cook, when sailing up the coast in 1770, named after
James Douglas, the Earl of Morton. After receiving the honour of having
a bay named after him the Earl of Morton had to live with the cruel
irony that 'Morton' ended up as 'Moreton'. A spelling error in the
Hawkesworth edition of Cook's Journal, the error was never changed, and
this Moreton become the accepted spelling of the bay. The spelling
error was compounded in 1799 when Matthew Flinders decided to name the
island to the east of the bay, Moreton Island.
It was Flinders who established that Moreton Island and
Stradbroke Island were separated from the mainland. Cook had believed
that they were both part of the coastline.
The name of the bay persisted and so, when a penal
colony was established at Red Cliff Point in 1824, it became known as
Moreton Bay. In fact it wasn't until the establishment of the colony of
Queensland in 1859 that Moreton Bay, as a description of the whole
district, began to change to Brisbane.
The island became important to shipping in the area when a
pilot station was established at the northern end of the island in
1848. Less than a decade later the lighthouse, designed by the famous
colonial architect Edmund Blacket, was built at the northern tip of the
island. It was the first lighthouse built in Queensland and still
stands today.
At various times in the last century the island has
been inhabited by Europeans. It was, for some time, a whaling station
and later became a tourist resort which was finally closed in the 1960s.
Today Moreton Island is of considerable environmental
interest. A huge 192 600-ha wilderness, it is a rare example of a
virtually untouched sand island with a wide range of related features,
including aeolian landforms, perched lakes, wetlands, and the unusual
Mount Tempest which is reputed to be the highest permanent sand dune in
the world. It is also claimed that the sand dunes are the steepest in
the world.
There are no established roads on the island although
4WD vehicles can be driven along the tracks which run beside the 40-km
beach.
There are three trips which can be taken across to Moreton
Island. They are all delightful and interesting daytrips which involve
travelling from the centre of Brisbane to the appropriate ferry, jetty
or wharf. The vehicular ferries travel regularly and are the major
means of access.
The appeal of Moreton Island is that, although it is
only a few hours by ferry from the centre of Brisbane, it is still
relatively untouched and it serves as a reminder of what the Brisbane
area was like before it was settled by Europeans.
As Moreton is a sand island it is important to
understand the rules of staying on recognised tracks and driving
according to the beach-driving rules.
Things to see:
(a) Trip 1: To Bulwer
The boat harbour at Scarborough is the mooring site
for the Combie Trader, a vehicular ferry travelling between the
mainland and Bulwer on Moreton Island every day but Tuesdays. The ferry
trip takes two hours. Phone (07) 3203 6399 for departure times.
The ferry from Scarborough to Bulwer is an ideal way of
experiencing the particular delights of the northern half of Moreton
Island. Bulwer is a tiny village which is really geared to deal with
the travellers who arrive on the island and require food, bait and supplies.
From Bulwer the most popular routes across Moreton
Island are to North Point and across to the island's eastern beaches.
The roads pass through the thick forests of the Moreton Island National
Park and at various points it is possible to stop and admire the
island's large dunes and freshwater lakes (Lake Jabiru - the largest
lake on the island is located to the south of the Bulwer-Cape Moreton
track and Blue Lagoon is inland from the beach near the south-eastern
road from Bulwer).
There are two major tracks to the east from Bulwer.
Both head east from the village for 5 km. The northern track, which is
8 km long, leads out to Cape Moreton and North Point.
The major structure of interest in the area of Cape
Moreton and North Point is the lighthouse which was built at Cape
Moreton in 1857. It was designed by the famous colonial architect
Edmund Blacket who was responsible for the main quadrangle at Sydney
University. Blacket was the colony's pre-eminent architect at the time.
The Cape Moreton lighthouse was the first built in Queensland and was a
vital aid to shipping trying to enter the shallow and complex waters of
Moreton Bay.
It is possible to drive south along the beach from the
lighthouse and to join the other major road from Bulwer south of the
Blue Lagoon. The southern track heads east from the village for 5 km
and then heads south-east for 8 km until reaching the beach. It passes
the Blue Lagoon.
(b) Trips 2 and 3: To Tangalooma and Kooringal
The Moreton Venture is a vehicular ferry which runs
to both Tangalooma and Kooringal on Moreton Island. The trip takes
around 2 hours. A four-wheel drive is a necessity although many
journeys to Kooringal at the southern end of the island are for
fishing. Phone (07) 3895 1000 for ferry departure details.
Tangalooma was originally established as a whaling
station. It closed down as recently as 1962 and more recently has
become the location of the one major resort on Moreton Island which
also runs a catamaran service to Tangalooma. It departs from Brisbane
every day but Monday, tel: (07) 3268 6333.
Like Bulwer in the north, Tangalooma is essentially a
departure point. Roads head out of the small village across Moreton
Island to the eastern beach and north along the coast to Bulwer. There
is a common track for 5 km to the north of Tangalooma. The route then
turns either north or east. 7 km east is the island's main beach and it
is possible to drive north to Eagers Creek and Mt Tempest, reputedly
the highest sand dune in the world.
Alternatively travellers can continue north to the tiny
settlement of Cowan Cowan and drive along the island's western coast
until they reach Bulwer.
Tangalooma's greatest attraction is the coloured sand
desert which lies behind the small settlement. Ask at the jetty for directions.
There are no recognised roads out of Kooringal
although there is a route up the eastern beaches. Like the island's
other settlements, Kooringal is a tiny village which services 4WD
visitors and bushwalkers.
For more information on Moreton Island National
Park ring (07) 3408 2710.
The Bay Islands
There are four other small islands in Moreton Bay
which can be visited by means of water taxi and vehicular ferry. They
have sandy beaches and mangrove foreshores and are popular spots for
fishing, swimming, sailing, picnicking and barbecues. There are also
cafes, kiosks and restaurants on the islands.
The largest of the four is Russell Island, which has an
appealing range of birdlife and native vegetation, such as orange
mangroves, wet heath, wildflowers, banksia woodland and eucalypt
forest, lending itself to bushwalking. There is a jetty, a beach, a
swimming enclosure (adjacent Lions Park, in High St) and a picnic area,
with shops and cafes nearby. There is a taxi service on the island , an
RSL Club, as well as a motel and a holiday home.
Lamb Island, approximately 1.5 km by 1.5 km, was
formerly known by its Aboriginal name, Ngudooroo. A swimming enclosure
can be found at the northern end of the island which has rainforest and
is known for its sea eagle nests.
The smallest island is Karragarra, which was briefly
known as Rabbit Island in the 19th century. Historically, a farming
settlement, it is about 4 km long and 500 metres wide and has about 100
inhabitants. It has a swimming enclosure, sandy beach and a jetty with
nearby picnic and barbecue facilities, but there are no shops on the
island. At 200 Treasure Island Ave is a small museum, featuring
eccentric items such as antique miniature prayer books, and a studio
displaying the surrealist work of a local artist. It is open from 10.00
a.m. to 3.00 p.m. on the last Sunday of the month, or by appointment,
tel: (07) 3409 1225. A rainforest walk can also be enjoyed in the
island's north-west.
The fourth island is Macleay Island, which is the
second-largest. It offers similar attractions, such as attractive
natural environs and aquatic recreation.