The Mary River at Maryborough

Maryborough
Gracious and attractive city on the Mary River.
Maryborough calls itself 'Heritage City' and while it doesn't compare in grandeur and graciousness to Queensland's two premier 'Heritage Cities' - Rockhampton and Charters Towers - it can claim to predate them both by some decades. The city does have a large number of beautiful buildings and the original Maryborough site - now nothing more than a series of plaques set in lush tropical surroundings - is a model of how to recreate imaginatively a bygone era.

Located 264 km north of Brisbane on the Mary River, Maryborough is a city with an economy based on servicing the surrounding sugar, grazing and timber industries and catering for the hundreds of thousands of tourists who pass through the area each year.

While the coast near Maryborough was chartered by Captain James Cook and Matthew Flinders, it was really Andrew Petrie who explored the present city site. In 1842 Petrie sailed up the coast from Moreton Bay in a whaleboat to investigate the economic potential of the harbour which lay behind Fraser Island. He was specifically looking for substantial stands of bunya trees. Petrie travelled nearly 80 km up the Mary River and, although he did not find the bunya trees, one of his crew, Henry Stuart Russell, declared after the journey that he had 'seen what looks like a first-rate harbour, and a river in which I yet hope, if I can but find fit country on or near it, goodbye to drays, bullocks, Cunningham's Gap and hells holes - hoorah! for immediate water carriage for wool.'

It is remarkably fortuitous that both Russell and Petrie have left very detailed accounts of the journey. Tom Petrie's Reminiscences of Early Queensland by Constance C Petrie was published in 1904, while Henry Stuart Russell's Genesis of Queensland was published in 1889.

The hinterland was settled extensively in the 1840s and in July 1847 the government surveyor, J. C. Burnett, surveyed the river, declaring that it was 'an eligible position for the establishment of a town as parties will no doubt settle there as soon as there is prospect of trade'. Governor Fitzroy decided to name the river Mary, after his wife. Prior to that it had been known as Wide Bay to the Europeans and Booie, Numabulla, Mooraboocoola or Moonaboola to the local Aborigines.

In September 1847 George Furber, an enterprising Ipswich businessman, arrived at Wide Bay and built a store, a house for himself, and a jetty. By December that year he had shipped out his first load of 65 bales of wool. The next year Furber found himself in competition with Aldridge and Palmer who had set up on the opposite bank of the river and were offering easier access to the port. The story goes that Furber was attacked and wounded by an Aborigine, forcing him to ride south to Ipswich for medical attention. By the time he returned a new settlement had been established on the other side of the river. He had no choice but to join it.

The infant township acquired a life of its own. Within a year over 1000 bales of wool were being shipped out and hotels, stores and shops had sprung up.

The original Maryborough site, occupied until 1855, is located between the Bruce Highway (at the Gympie end of town) and the Mary River.

Maryborough was already a thriving township when it was proclaimed a municipality in 1861. Two events in the 1860s ensured that it would continue to grow and prosper. In 1865 the Maryborough Sugar Company was set up and, when gold was discovered in 1867 at Gympie, Maryborough became one of the major access points to the fields.

By 1869 the town's superb post office had been built and for the next decade the commerce of the town was sufficient to prompt the construction of some major buildings. In this Maryborough was well ahead of Rockhampton and Charters Towers both of which developed later in the nineteenth century.

Things to see:  

Old Maryborough
The original Maryborough site, occupied until 1855 and located between the Bruce Highway (at the Gympie end of town) and the Mary River, is really interesting.

Starting with a series of boards that describe the early history of the town, it then has a pleasant heritage walk through parklands beside the Mary River where the initial settlement was established. Although none of the original buildings remain, the walk is dotted with plaques which recount the history of a long-departed house or shop. The only unchanged features are the old Furber graves (most of which have illegible inscriptions) and the gracious Baddow House. The fifteen points of interest on the walk include the Teamsters Paddock, the site of the Bush Inn, the site of Furber's Inn, the landing, wool store, sawpits, tanning pits and sawyers huts.

Baddow House was built in 1883 by Edgar Thomas Aldridge who had followed Furber to the area and who established trading and wool stores on the banks of the river as well as the original Bush Inn (now the Royal Hotel).

Brennan & Geraghty's Store.
Located at 64 Lennox Street this large single-storey timber store, which dates from 1871, is an excellent example of a well-appointed store of the period. Its Victorian brick and stucco facade, six-panel doors and shuttered shop windows all make it an imposing structure. It was refurbished in 1990 and returned to its original condition.

The excellent Historical Homes of Wide Bay records: 'The store was similar to a present day supermarket and many articles apart from groceries were sold. At the close of business each night wooden shutters were placed on the windows. Produce in the rear section of the store was transported to the front section on a flat-top trolley which ran on wooden rails. A galvanised pipe speaking tube linked the store to the Geraghty home on the northern side of the store.'

The Royal Hotel
The Royal Hotel retains its Royal Crest, granting it the status of a hotel under royal patronage. As its publicity proudly declares: 'The Royal Hotel, famous for its hospitality and service since 1856, has been host to Governor Generals, State Governors, Prime Ministers, Premiers, and many distinguished overseas visitors.'

The distinction of royal patronage was bestowed on the hotel by Governor Bowen when he conducted his first official function at the hotel.

In 1930 Governor Sir Leslie Orme Wilson wrote to King George V questioning the hotel's status and its royal patronage was confirmed. The Regal Room retains the Coat of Arms, presented by Governor Bowen.

It is believed that one of Maryborough's earliest hotels, the Bush Inn, which was built by Edward Aldridge, was erected on this site in 1857. The new hotel, which dates from 1902, is believed to incorporate parts of the old hotel.

St Paul's Anglican Church and Tower
Located in Lennox Street, St Paul's Anglican Church became the town's third Anglican church when it was completed in 1879. Perhaps of greater interest is the free standing belltower, one of many gifts bestowed upon the town by Edward Aldridge. Dedicated to his wife the tower was completed in 1887.

City Hall
An impressive building dominating the lower end of the main street the city was designed by Robin Dods in a distinctive American Colonial style in 1908. You can just imagine a pigtailed and youthful Debbie Reynolds walking down the steps with her school books under her arm.

Within the City Hall is one of the city's true novelties, the Time Gun, which is fired on Thursdays at 1.00 p.m. It has been estimated that it can be heard as much as 30 km away. The gun was a gift to the city from the Premier of Queensland, John Douglas. It was found on the Torres Strait island of Mobiag and was most likely used by the vessels of the Dutch East India Company during the seventeenth century. It was presented as a response to the criticism that the town had no clock. The gun was first fired on 21 March 1878. It was taken to the Brisbane Expo in 1988. Its history is detailed in Heritage with a BANG!, available from the Maryborough Tourist Information Office.

The Maryborough Post Office
The post office was constructed in 1869. It reflects the affluence which came to Maryborough as a result of the Gympie goldrush. It is a typical Victorian Classical Revival building with arcaded verandahs and a clock tower which was added in 1879. A gracious two-storey building it is an important part of the streetscape near Queen's Park which includes the customs house, courthouse and a number of hotels.

Queens Park
Located on the banks of the Mary River this can make claims to being one of the most delightful parks in Queensland. The huge banyan tree, the elegant band rotunda, the city fernery, the little statue and the views over the river all make it an ideal place to relax.

Looking from the Band Rotunda across the Mary River

The band rotunda is a very early example of prefabrication. It was actually built in Glasgow and shipped out in 1890. Originally it included the 'Fairy Fountain', an ornate drinking fountain which has been relocated nearby. The fountain was removed so that the floor could be raised to provide audiences with better views of the performer.

Near the rotunda are some 13-cm gauge railway tracks. The local Model Engineers and Live Steamers Association bring their trains to these tracks on the last Sunday of each month.

HM Customs House
Maryborough got its first customs officer in 1859. This building was completed in 1901. It features a coat of arms and is a fine example of the elaborate brickwork which was commonplace during the period.

Customs House Hotel
Built in 1870 at the height of Maryborough's early prosperity, the two-storey Customs House, with its fine cast-iron lacework, is one of the many highlights on Wharf Street.

The Courthouse
At one corner of Queen's Park stands an impressive group of solid Victorian buildings, the highlight of which is the Maryborough Courthouse and Lands Office, a huge two-storey Victorian Classical Revival building which was built between 1875 and 1877 for £7345. It is, by any measure, a building which reeks of wealth and confidence. A remarkable construction in a period when the British Empire was at its height and Queensland was developing rapidly.

The Maryborough Family Heritage Institute Building
This former Bank Of New South Wales is also located in Wharf St. Erected in 1878 with iron columns and elaborate cast-iron lacework it was one of Maryborough's three major banks during the Gympie goldrush. Fortunes were deposited in this bank by successful miners.

The Bond Store Museum
The old Bond Store at 101 Wharf Street has been converted into a very fine heritage museum, tel: (07) 4123 1523. It is open from10.45 a.m. to 12.00 p.m. and from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. every weekday. Weekend visits can only be made by prior appointment.

This most interesting collection of historic buildings can best be seen by starting at Queens Park, heading down Bargara St, past the post office, turning left into Wharf Street and then taking another left into Macalister St and proceeding back to the park, passing the courthouse and customs house, being careful not to miss the Customs House Hotel and the NPWS building on the far corners.

Visitors' Information Centre
Visitors wishing to make an even more comprehensive tour of Maryborough's historic buildings should visit the Maryborough Tourist Information Office. It is located on the Bruce Highway, on the city side of the Lamington Bridge. There you will find a number of excellent books on the city's buildings. The Maryborough City Community Services and Tourist Guide (available free) lists a total of 59 places around the city which are worth visiting. It details a city walking tour as well as a driving tour.

One of the most interesting books on the city is Historical Homes of Wide Bay, a series of sketches and descriptions of predominantly domestic architecture. Old Maryborough Site: An Historical Study by Tom Blake and Richard Allom is a very detailed and academic survey of the town's original site on the banks of the Mary River. A good general overview of the city's history is available in A History of Maryborough 1842-1976 which was produced by the Maryborough, Wide Bay and Burnett Historical Society.

	Tourist Information
	Fraser Coast-South Burnett Regional Tourism Board Maryborough Sout h Travel Shop, Bruce Hwy Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 4111
	Maryborogh City Hall Visitor Information Centre City Hall, Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4190 5742 Email: tourism@maryborough.qld.gov.au
	Motels
	Arkana Inn 46 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2261 Rating: ***
	Cara Motel 196 Walker St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 4288 Rating: ***
	Maryborough City Motel 138 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2568 Rating: **
	Maryborough Motor Inn Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 2777 Rating: ***
	McNevins Parkway Motel 188 John St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 2888 Rating: ****
	Mineral Sands Motel Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2366 Rating: ***
	Spanish Motor Inn 499 Alice St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2858 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Carlton Hotel 70 Ellen St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2406
	Criterion Hotel 98 Wharf St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3043
	Custom House Hotel 116 Wharf St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2269
	Federal Hotel 270 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 4711
	Hotel Central Adelaide St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3105
	Lamington Hotel/Motel 33 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3295
	Oxford Hotel 98 Richmond St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 3366
	Post Office Hotel Cnr Bazaar & Wharf Sts Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3289
	Red Roo Hotel 100 Adelaide St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3586
	Royal Hotel 340 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2241 Rating: **
	Royal Hotel Motel 340 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2241
	Shamrock Hotel 170 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3217 Rating: ***
	Sydney Hotel 34 Ellena St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3307
	The Old Sydney Hotel Cnr Ellena & Richmond Sts Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3307
	White Lion Hotel 37 Walker St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3374
	Resorts
	Susan River Homestead Ranch Resort Bay Rd Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 6846
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	The Engineers Arms Restaurant & B&B 115 March St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 0377 Facsimile: (07) 4123 0778 Email: philipandjulie@eabnb.com.au
	Caravan Parks
	Caltex Caravan Park Gympie Rd Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 6379 Rating: **
	Country Stopover Caravan Park Bruce Hwy Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2764 Rating: **
	Huntsville Caravan Park 23 Gympie Rd Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 4075 Facsimile: (07) 4121 4187 Rating: ****
	Kellys Roadhouse Caravan Park 148 Gympie Rd Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 4681 Rating: **
	Wallace Motel and Caravan Park 22 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3970 Facsimile: (07) 4121 5111 Rating: ****
	Motels
	Wallace Motel and Caravan Park 22 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3970 Facsimile: (07) 4121 5111 Rating: ****
	Restaurants
	Brunch & Lunch 281 Alice St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 3302
	China Dragon Restaurant 171 Adelaide St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 1399
	Feelgoods Family Restaurant 340 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 2241
	Fortune Chinese Restaurant 224 Bazaar St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 1744
	Gardenia Restaurant 193 Adelaide St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 4967
	Li's Palace Chinese Restaurant 88 Ferry St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 3700
	Lucky Chinese Restaurant 302 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4121 3645
	Mamma Rosa's Pizzas 87 Ellena St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 2122
	McNevin's Parkway Restaurant 188 John St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4122 2888
	Riverview On Wharf Street Restaurant 106 Wharf St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 1000
	The Basement 389 Kent St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 6888
	The Engineers Arms Restaurant 115 March St Maryborough QLD 4650 Telephone: (07) 4123 0377 Facsimile: (07) 4123 0778 Email: philiptout@austarnet.com.au