'The Foxes', 69 Ellenborough Street, Ipswich

Ipswich
Attractive city near Brisbane with some of the most attractive historic houses in Queensland.
If Rockhampton and Charters Towers have the best public architecture in Queensland (and possibly in the whole of Australia), then there is no doubt that Ipswich has the finest domestic architecture. This is a city where the visitor can literally drive around the streets (particularly the streets to the south of the business centre) and discover rows of magnificent and imaginatively designed old houses.

The European exploration of Ipswich was a result of the establishment of the penal colony at Moreton Bay.

The Ipswich Municipal Centenary book records the discovery of the Bremer River: 'Two rowboats left the new settlement at Redcliffe on Saturday 16, 1824. In the party were John Oxley, Allan Cunningham, Lieutenant Butler of the 40th Regiment and the boats' crews. They went across Moreton Bay, to make the second survey of the Brisbane River.

'After rowing up the river, they began the return journey on September 25, at 5 p.m. made a camp on the north bank, opposite a tributary, which Oxley named 'Bremer's Creek'. At that time Captain James Gordon Bremer (later Sir James), was in charge of the H.M.S. Tamar, in New South Wales. The captain's name was adopted for the newly discovered creek.'

Inevitably people living at the penal colony explored the land around the Brisbane River. The first European into the Ipswich area was Major Lockyer and he was followed by Captain Logan, the Commandant of the Brisbane colony.

The Jubilee History of Ipswich (first published in 1910) records Logan's explorations: 'Captain Logan, the Commandant of Brisbane, appears to have been the first to make definite exploration about the locality where Ipswich now stands...In his journal of June 7th, 1827, it is recorded - 'left the settlement (Brisbane) at 4 o'clock in the morning; proceeded up the Brisbane and arrived at Limestone Hills on the left branch at 10 o'clock; distance 57 miles.' Captain Logan sent the boat back to Brisbane at this point, and for a fortnight he traversed the country along the courses of the Bremer and the Logan Rivers. He saw plenty of kangaroos, emus, parrots, and so on, and was highly pleased with the country, reporting that at one point he had 'a grand and extensive prospect - the Limestone Hill bore N.N.E.'; while on another occasion he says: 'I may safely rely that there is in this beautiful vale at least half-a-million acres excellently watered, and fit for any purpose to which it may be applied.'

The next explorer through the region was Allan Cunningham who, in 1828 while writing to Governor Darling, observed: 'a few remarks on the future importance of Bremer's River as a navigable stream... It is, therefore, highly probable that upon the site of these limestone hills, a town will one day be raised.'

At around this time convicts from Brisbane were already in the area and a limestone kiln had been built which was producing between 300-400 baskets of lime a week. The lime was mixed with mortar to built Brisbane's stone buildings.

At this time coal was also found nearby at Redbank. Mining began in 1843 when a number of mines (there were as many as 50 at one time) were established in the area. It is obvious that many of the miners came from Wales as the mines have such familiar Welsh coal mining names as Rhondda and Ebbw Vale. The Rhondda colliery, which lies to the south of the city, is still operational. The Rhondda No 1 is an important example of a Victorian coalmine with a vertical shaft and poppet head. Some of the old mining equipment is now listed as part of the National Estate. It is possible to visit the works but worth contacting Rhondda Collieries on (07) 3282 1311 before you do so.

By 1840 a small settlement, which was probably nothing more than a couple of houses and a general store, had grown up in the area. It is recognised that George Thorn, who arrived in the area in 1838 to take charge of the Government's cattle, sheep and horses, was Ipswich's first free settler.

In 1842, when the area around Brisbane was opened to free settlers, the squatters who were already on the Darling Downs, came through Cunningham's and Spicer's Gaps and quickly took up land. Between 1840 and 1860 the area was dominated by wool production and the head of navigation on the Bremer River became the point for shipping wool to the coast. In two weeks in 1859 60 drays with over 500 bales of wool arrived at the port.

Development of the township was rapid. It was proclaimed a municipality in 1860, the railway to Grandchester was completed in 1864, the railway to Brisbane came in 1876, and by 1904 Ipswich (which had started life with the rather unprepossessing name of Limestone) had become a city.

Some of the publications dealing with Ipswich are delightful. The Jubilee History of Ipswich: A Record of Municipal, Industrial and Social Progress is a facsimile of a book published in 1910 to celebrate 50 years of Municipal Government. It has some excellent photographs and interesting biographies of some of the towns' earliest citizens. Equally interesting and informative is Ipswich Municipal Centenary written and published by Leslie E. Slaughter in March 1960 to celebrate 100 years of Municipal Government. For people interested in the history of the local river (with details of floods, river transportation, exploration and just about everything you could ever want to know) The Romance of the Bremer by Margery Brier-Mills is an informative publication.

Things to see:  

Ipswich City Heritage Trails
It is absolutely essential to get a copy of the Ipswich City Heritage Trails pamphlet which has been published by the Ipswich City Council and the National Trust of Queensland (Ipswich Branch). The pamphlet has been excellently presented with colour photographs and detailed text on no fewer than 78 buildings in the town. The challenge of such a feast of goodies (most of them are private dwellings and not open to the public) is where do you start. The pamphlet even attempts to solve this question by offering six trails - three walking and three driving. An excellent map is included.

It is impossible to overstate the excellence of this publication. Perhaps a couple of sample entries will give some idea of the details provided:

'26. The Old Ipswich Courthouse. The main courtroom and office of the Old Ipswich Courthouse with its impressive sandstone facade was completed in 1859 to the design of Charles Tiffin, who, after Separation of Queensland from New South Wales in that year, became Queensland colonial architect. The side wings were added probably in the 1880s and the rear portion in the 1930s. The building is listed by the National Trust of Queensland and owned by the Queensland Government.'

'28. 'Ginn Cottage'. William Ginn built this small Georgian style cottage after he purchased the land in 1858. Ginn operated as a merchant in Ipswich, and was foundation director of the then Ipswich and West Moreton Building Society. Listed by the National Trust of Queensland Ginn Cottage is among the oldest surviving brick buildings in Ipswich.'

'56. It is near the present site of 'Claremont' that Captain Patrick Logan came ashore from the Bremer River and discovered the Limestone Hills in 1826. Built on sandstone in 1858 for the merchant John Panton, 'Claremont' is a good example of single storey Colonial Georgian architecture. George Thorn who had been appointed overseer of stock at what was then known as the ploughed station at Limestone (Ipswich) purchased 'Claremont' in 1863. After a succession of owners and almost derelict, the property was purchased by the National Trust of Queensland in 1975.'

The result is a publication which is a model of how a truly excellent historical guide to a city's interesting buildings can be presented.

For people who do not want to spend a whole day looking at Ipswich's architectural heritage the places of exceptional interest in the city (which include those already mentioned) include St Paul's Anglican Church hailed as 'one of the nicest churches in New South Wales' by the clergyman who held the first service on 12 June 1859, 'Belmont' at 11 Burnett Street which is an extraordinary two storey sandstone townhouse, the houses on Denmark Hill which include 'The Foxes', 'The Palms' and 'Lakemba', the view over the town from the Denmark Hill Environmental Park and Walter Burley Griffin's Incinerator in Queens Park which has been turned into a theatre. Although Burley Griffin is famous for his design of Canberra he did design a number of municipal incinerators around Australia. His incinerator at Willoughby in Sydney is now a fashionable restaurant.

'The Palms' on the corner of Ellenborough Street and Chelmsford Avenue

The buildings of Ipswich Girls Grammar School, designed in the fashionable Classical Revival style in 1892, are impressive and the view from Queens Park (which has a lovely late Victorian band rotunda and a kiosk with Tourist Information) is excellent for an overview of the city. Equally St Marys Catholic Church is one of the most substantial rural churches in Australia. The list of interesting buildings seems endless. They should not be missed.

	Tourist Information
	Ipswich Visitor Information Centre Queens Park, 14 Queen Victoria Pde Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 0555 Facsimile: (07) 3281 0555 Rating:
	Motels
	Ipswich Flag Inn 86 Warwick Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 2633 Rating: ***
	Ipswich Homestead International Motel 250 South Station Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3202 4622 Rating: ***
	Ipswich Motor Inn 51 Warwick Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3202 3111 Rating: ***
	Mary Ellen Motel Limestone St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 2100 Rating: ***
	Motel Monaco 28 Downs St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 4200 Rating: **
	Hotels
	Caledonian Hotel 9 Bell St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 2048
	City View Hotel 275 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 4038
	Coronation Hotel 254 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 4360
	Federal Hotel 214 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 4855
	Metropole Hotel 253 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 1940
	One Mile Hotel 357 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 8950
	Settlers Inn Hotel 215 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 3444
	Strand Hotel The Terrace Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 1090
	Tavern on the Mall Nicholas St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 2322
	Ulster Hotel 25 Brisbane St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 2873
	Caravan Parks
	Amberley Caravan Park Cunningham Hwy 8 km south west of Ipswich Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 5464 3388 Rating: **
	K C's All You Can Eat Restaurant 51Warwick Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3812 2892
	Thai Silver Key 64 Brisbane Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3282 8313
	Willowbank Caravan Village & Cabins Cnr Warwick & Cooper Rds 11 km south west of Ipswich Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 5464 3166 or (07) 3812 1211 Rating: **
	Restaurants
	Bellevue Restaurant 3 Burnett St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3812 3666
	Bodega Restaurant 43 Brisbane Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3282 7716
	Bogart's On Darling Street Restaurant Darling St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 7041
	Cameron Lodge Restaurant 250 South Station Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3202 4622
	Carlotta's Pizzeria Ellenborough House Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 8755
	Double Golden Dragon Inn 44 East St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3202 2727
	Excelsior Chinese Restaurant 30 East St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3281 1134
	Food Fetish 37 Warwick Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3812 1931
	Old Flour Mill Eatery 231 Brisbane Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3812 1882 Rating:
	Rogues Cafe Restaurant 17 Limestone St Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3812 2043
	South China Chinese Restaurant 146 Brisbane Rd Ipswich QLD 4305 Telephone: (07) 3202 4282