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The 100 year old Artesian
Bore on the southern edge of Burketown
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Burketown
(including Lawn Hill National Park)
Outback township on the edge of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Located 418 km north of Mount Isa and 15 metres
above sea-level, Burketown proudly announces to the world that it is
'The Barramundi Capital of Australia'. This small town on the flat
plains of the Gulf near the Albert River is really nothing more than a
school, a pub, a couple of service stations, a council office, and
three general stores.
It currently has a population of 235 which is about as
high as it has ever been. In 1868 there was a population of 70. This
had dropped to 15 in 1871, risen to 265 in 1911 and dropped back to 59
in 1947. There seems to have been no real boom period in the town's history.
The first Europeans into the area were Burke, who is
the source of the town's name, and Wills. They reached the coast near
Normanton in 1861.
A subsequent visitor was Frederick Walker - one of the
many explorers who, while looking for Burke and Wills, opened up the
whole Gulf area.
Walker's grave is located 71 km south of the township on
Floraville Station. The inscription reads:
'On August 17 1848 Frederick Walker, aged 28, was
appointed to the position of Commandant of the Corps of Native Police
having emigrated from Australia from England. The Corps commenced with
fourteen troopers recruited from four different New South Wales tribes.
In 1850 Walker had three units and two lieutenants in the corps and by
1852 he increased the Corps with 48 additional Aboriginal troopers who
were drilled and trained in the use of carbines, swords, saddles and
bridles. The Native Mounted Police Corps were responsible for
maintaining law and order beyond the settled districts. On 12 October
1854 Walker was dismissed from the service for impropriety of conduct
due to his heavy drinking. After his dismissal he continued to live on
the frontier and briefly formed an illegal force of ten ex-troopers
from the Native Police Corps to protect settlers in the Upper Dawson
region. In August of 1861 fears had grown for the safety of the Burke
and Wills expedition and Walker was sent at the insistence of the Royal
Society of Victoria to search for the ill-fated expedition.
Frederick Walker was in many ways a remarkable
man. His exploration of the Gulf assisted in opening up the region and
his maps were considered accurate. Walker did not find Burke and Wills
but he did find Camp 119, the last Burke and Wills camp before they
turned south on their return journey. After lengthy explorations of the
Gulf region Walker was then employed by the Superintendant of Electric
Telegraph to survey a 500 mile route from Bowen to Burketown in a bid
to compete against South Australia to have Burketown the end of the
Trans-Oceanic link from Europe. Although Frederick Walker lost the race
and Darwin became the terminus. He did survey the line. He arrived in
Burketown with his party of four Europeans and four Aboriginal
assistants at the height of the Gulf Fever - a typhoid which affected
the Gulf after the arrival in Burketown of a vessel on which all the
crew except the Captain died. Walker commenced his return journey but
at Floraville he became ill and after several days he also died of the
Gulf Fever on 19 September 1866. The entry in the expedition's logbook
recorded the passing of a pioneer of the gulf: 'as soon as the horses
were brought up and a couple saddled Perrier and Ewan were starting for
the doctor of the Leichhardt search expedition which was camped about
six miles off. But he (Walker) died before they mounted. He died at
noon and was buried on the evening of the same day. So ended the life
of a remarkable Australian.'
Frederick Walker's grave became a mystery as to
its location for many years until discovered by Mr. Walter Camp of
Floraville Station after many years of searching.
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Frederick Walker's grave on
Floraville Station, near Burketown
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Another explorer
who came through the area at the same time as Walker was William
Landsborough. He, too, was looking for Burke and Wills. It is an irony
of the Burke and Wills saga that it was the people who went looking for
the duo who really opened up the Gulf area - Burke and Wills made no
contribution to the discovery of the area in their own right.
Landsborough was impressed with the land between the
Albert and Nicholson Rivers and named it the 'Plains of Plenty' which
was enough to cause a minor flurry of interest. Nat Buchanan was among
the pastoralists who raced to take up holdings on the Gulf. He managed
to secure land between the two rivers. It was claimed at the time that
an area of 25 sq. miles was worth £1000. This was partly related
to the belief that cattle raised on the Gulf could be cured and sold to
the lucrative Dutch East Indies market.
In 1865 the town site was established when William
Landsborough arrived in the tiny settlement with a number of native
police. He had recently been appointed police magistrate and
commissioner of crown lands in Carpentaria.
Around this time a boiling works was set up on
the banks of the Albert River by the Edkins brothers. Boilers, vats,
cauldrons and equipment were shipped up from Sydney and beef from the
area was successfully salted and smoked for export.
By March 1867 the Edkin brothers were exporting cured
beef and barrels of tallow to Batavia and Singapore and they were
sending horns, hooves and hides to Brisbane and Sydney for secondary processing.
It looked as though Burketown would become
prosperous and the locals started talking about secession. However the
population was decimated in 1866 by Gulf Fever (no one is quite sure
what it was but guesses have included yellow fever, typhoid and
dengue). Most of those who did not die moved to Normanton.
Today the Boiling Down Works is nothing more than a
few boilers and rusting machinery in the middle of nowhere beside a dry
river bed. They are a reminder that the town flourished briefly before
the combination of Gulf Fever and the establishment of a cattle route
across to Townsville dealt it the coup de grace.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
The Burke Shire Council has produced a sheet of
things to do in the local area which is full of good suggestions, tel:
(07) 4745 5111.
Frederick Walker's Grave
The grave of pioneer explorer Frederick Walker is
located 71 km south of the township on Floraville Station. To get there
head south off the Burketown-Normanton road at the sign which says
'Floraville Station' and then travel towards the station buildings.
Before reaching the station turn left and the grave is located on the
far side of a dry creekbed.
The Old Boiling Down Works
Travel north through the town, pass the pub, proceed
past the hospital on your right, go across a grid and follow the main
dirt road until you reach a sign which says 'Historic Sites'.
Post Office
Of the town's other interesting sites there is the old
post office, moved to the corner of Mulgrave and Burke Sts, which the
local council converted into a tourist information centre but which is
currently empty. One of Burketown's first buildings, it was constructed
in 1887 and retains many of its original features. It is typical of the
post and telegraph offices which were built in Queensland in the late
nineteenth century.
Artesian Bore
To the south of the town on the Normanton Road there is
a 100-year-old artesian bore. It is arguably the only really
interesting bore in Queensland as it has been running for over a
century and the minerals in the water have built up so that now it
looks more like a piece of modern sculpture than a tap to an
underground supply of hot water. The pond which has formed around the
bore has also been coloured by the minerals.
Lawn Hill National Park
Located 220 km south of Burketown is the magnificent
Lawn Hill National Park centred around the famous and outstanding,
60-metre high Lawn Hill Gorge which has been occupied by Aborigines for
around 35 000 years. Erosion, caused by a subterranean creek, has
created a beautiful oasis of limpid water, red rocks and verdant
vegetation. Canoes are available for hire and there are some beautiful
swimming spots along the river. There is also plenty of fauna in the
area (including freshwater crocodiles which are not known to attack
people) and a memorial to a police sergeant who was shot and killed
while pursuing bushranger Joe Flick in 1889. The road to the Gorge is
unsealed and arduous (take the signposted turnoff 76 km west of Gregory
Downs) and the facilities are very basic. However, there are 20 km of
walking tracks which will take you to historic sites where there are
middens and rock art, and to the Island Stack, from whence there are
excellent views of the Gorge, as well as a pleasant waterfall and
swimming area. For further information and camping permits, tel: (07)
4748 5572.
A recent and exciting find in the park is the living
presence of the gulf snapping turtle (Lavarackorum elseya), thought to
have been rendered extinct owing to dramatic climatic change during the
Pleistocene era. Prior to this, the only known example was a fossil
found at Riversleigh.
Adels Grove
Well signposted from the main Lawn Hill Road, Adels
Grove is 10 km from the national park. Covering 30 ha it was
established by French botanist Albert de Lestang in the 1930s at the
behest of the government as an experiment in the growing of tropical
fruits and trees. There is an airstrip, a guide service, a kiosk and a
caravan and camping site, tel: (07) 4748 5502.
Riversleigh Fossil Fields
55 km south-east of Adels Grove these palaeontological
fields are now incorporated into Lawn Hills National Park. Although
many of the finds (including huge flightless birds and other fossils
dating back 20 million years) are now in the Mt Isa Riversleigh Fossils
Display the site is still of interest. However, there are no facilities
or accommodation and permission must be gained prior to entry, tel:
(07) 4748 5572.
Escott Lodge
18 km west of the town, on the banks of the Nicholson
River, is Escott Lodge (the turnoff is 3 km from Burketown), which is
part of Escott cattle station. It was established in 1864 and now
covers 700 000 acres with 9000 head of cattle. It has camping and
caravan accommodation, with ablutions and laundry facilities in a
parkland setting, surrounded by coconut palms and mango trees, tel:
(07) 4748 5577. The email is savair@ozemail.com.au
World Barramundi Fishing Championships
This popular annual fishing event, which is
conducted out of Burketown, takes place each year in April, offering
over $7500 in prize money, with $2600 for the heaviest single catch.
For further information ring (07) 4745 5100 or email
burkesc@bigpond.com
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Tourist Information
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Burketown Shire Council
Musgrave St
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4745 5111
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Hotels
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Burketown Pub
Cnr Musgrave & Beames Sts
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4745 5104
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Lodges & Chalets
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Escott Barramundi Lodge
via Burketown
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4748 5577
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Caravan Parks
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Adels Grove Caravan Park
PMB2
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4748 5502
Facsimile: (07) 4748 5600
Email: adelsgrove@bigpond.com
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Burketown Caravan Park
Sloman St
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4745 5118
Rating: *
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Escott Lodge
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4748 5577
Email: savair@ozemail.com.au
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Restaurants
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Burketown Pub
Cnr Musgrave & Beames Sts
Burketown
QLD
4830
Telephone: (07) 4745 5104
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