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Visitors experience
conditions at the underground mine
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Tennant Creek
(including Warrego)
Although a modest outback town, Tennant Creek
is the Territory's most important settlement after Darwin, Alice
Springs and Katherine.
Located 377 m above sea level and enjoying an
annual rainfall of 470 mm, Tennant Creek is the most important township
on the Barkly Tablelands. With a population of over 3500, Tennant Creek
is the administrative centre for an area larger than the state of
Victoria. It is situated at the meeting of the Stuart and Barkly
Highways and is 504 km north of Alice Springs and 978 km south of Darwin.
The first European to pass through Tennant Creek was
the explorer John McDouall Stuart. During his expedition in 1860 he
named the creek after his friend and sponsor John Tennant, the father
of the South Australian pastoralist and politician, Andrew Tennant
(1835-1913). Between 1860 and 1862, McDouall Stuart made three
expeditions before finally reaching the north shore. His purpose was to
map a path for the overland telegraph which was being extended from
England to Australia.
It wasn't until 1872, when the telegraph line was
completed and a permanent repeater station was built, that people moved
into the area in small numbers. This station, which lies 11 km to the
north of town, was closed down in 1979 and currently operates as a
museum (see entry in Things to See).
Opposite the Telegraph Station are two lonely graves - one is
of notorious cattle duffer Tom Nugent, the owner of Banka Banka
Station, who died in 1911, and the other is of Archibald Cameron, an
employee of the telegraph station who died in 1918.
The search for gold in the Northern Territory in the late
1870s led to the discovery of small traces in the creeks and gullies
south of the telegraph station in 1879. However the source of the gold
remained a mystery and returns were insufficient to sustain prolonged
interest and endeavour.
In 1926 a miner named Charlie Windley made a claim on the
site of the Great Northern Mine. He was working in weathered rock and
made enough to justify his efforts but the original source of the gold
still lay undiscovered.
One of the telegraph operators, 'Woody'
Woodforde, had enlisted local Aborigines in the search for gold and, in
1932, an Aboriginal man brought Woodforde a lump of black ironstone
containing visible specks of gold. At the time this was a revelation as
gold was usually found in, and associated with, quartz and had no prior
associations with ironstone. This discovery led prospectors to cast
their eyes upon previously overlooked geological formations in the
area, particularly the hills to the south of the telegraph station
which had caps of ironstone. There gold was found with ironstone
deposits returning as much as 1.2 kg per tonne. This led to Australia's
last great goldrush.
Despite warnings placed in major newspapers by the
federal government, concerning the harsh conditions and the lack of
facilities, supplies, food and water, 600 men soon flecked the hills of
the district. By 1934 the numbers prompted the government to gazette a
new township, to be called Tennant Creek.
One of the most famous gold finds was made by Joe Kaczinski
and Bill Bohning who named their claim after Kaczinski's dog, Peko.
Peko Mines was established in 1949 and, during its forty-year history,
it made a major contribution to the development of Tennant Creek.
Another successful (and earlier) venture was the Eldorado
Mine, which opened in 1932 and closed in 1958, producing nearly 175 000
grams of gold. As a significant producer of copper, it was the only
mine in the field to continue production throughout World War II.
The discovery of the copper reserves proved very profitable
with new mines established on that basis. The Nobles Nob Mine, which
started as a shaft mine, was founded by Jack Noble who, with his one
good eye, formed a team with his friend and financier William Weaber,
who was totally blind. It became an open-cut operation in 1967 after
the main shaft collapsed. Nobles Nob produced assays which regularly
exceeded 100 oz (3.2 kg) of gold per metric ton. One particularly rich
area within the ore body produced over 300 oz per ton. During its
existence, Nobles Nob produced over a million ounces (32 tons) of gold.
After the visible surface gold was removed attention
shifted, in the 1950s and 1960s, to the portion of those same lodes
which extended underground. Recent surveys indicate that there are
still over 200 mines operating in the Tennant Creek region and modern
technology has located further deposits with no visible outcrop on the
surface. New mines are being developed in 2003 by Giants Reef mining.
50 km west of Tennant Creek is the mining settlement of
Warrego which began production in 1971. Established by Peko Wallsend
the town had a short but spectacular existence. In 1971 a concentrator
was built and in 1973 a smelter was established. By 1975 the town was
producing 95% of Australia's bismuth but later that year 550 men were
retrenched and the town was closed down. It has since reopened as a
working mine but is closed to visitors.
Things to see:
Battery Hill Mining Centre
Located 1.5 km east of the town centre, via Peko Road,
is Battery Hill. Here visitors will find a large collection of mining
machinery, plus two museum buildings. Guided tours take in an
underground mine and the enormous No. 3 Government Stamp Battery which
was established in the 1940s for prospectors to crush their ore.
Although it no longer operates for miners - being considered
inefficient by today's standards - it is still in working order and can
be seen in operation on the guided tour which explains in detail the
process by which ore is crushed and passed over mercury-coated plates
to trap the gold. One of the largest ten-head stamp batteries still
working in Australia, its unusual scale refelcts the fact that the gold
found around Tennant Creek has been predominantly embedded in ironstone
rather than quartz. As this is an extremely hard and heavy material
conventional crushing devices proved inadequate. For further
information about the tours ring (08) 8962 1281 or email them at
tennantmining@swtch.com.au
Visitor Information Centre
Also located at Battery Hill is a visitor information
centre which can furnish all brochures, pamphlets and advice requisite
to a well-informed and thorough investigation of the local attractions.
There are also video presentations, interactive computer displays and a
free booklet designed to accompany a self-guided walk around the town
centre, tel: (08) 8962 3388 or fax: (08) 8962 2509. The email address
is info@tennantcreektourism.com.au and the website is www.tennantcreektourism.com.au
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The corrugated iron Roman
Catholic Church in Tennant Creek
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Church of Christ
the King
There are few buildings of historical importance in
Tennant Creek. Most of the early buildings were constructed out of
corrugated iron and have simply disappeared. One of the most notable
buildings is the Roman Catholic Church of Christ the King (turn left
off Paterson Street at Windley Street) which was originally built at
Pine Creek in 1904. As Pine Creek declined and Tennant Creek grew, the
decision was made in 1936 to dismantle the building and transport it to
the new settlement.
Unfortunately, the trip commenced at the start of the wet
season and, while the first truck made it, the second got bogged in a
creek and overturned. The third returned to Pine Creek to await
improved weather. This left the front door in Tennant Creek, the back
door 700 km north at Pine Creek and the side walls scattered along a
creek at Daly Waters. Thus the locals started referring to the building
as 'The Longest Church in Australia'. It was the first church to be
built between Alice Springs and Katherine and its unique use of
corrugated iron, caneite, masonite and recycled telegraph poles for
support stumps, make it a rare, if eccentric and somewhat makeshift,
example of original Australian vernacular architecture.
Mary Ann Dam
The Mary Ann Dam lies just 5 km to the north of the town,
and is a well-established park and recreational area for locals and
visitors alike. Offering expansive lawned areas, shaded tables,
barbecues and shady trees, it is a good spot for picnics, barbecues,
swimming and fishing. The dam is named after the daughters of the two
miners who owned the mining lease here.
Phillip Creek Settlement
Travelling north on the Stuart Highway the
traveller comes to the remnants of the Phillip Creek Settlement. This
protected area offers a rare opportunity to see the attitudes which
informed the treatment of Aborigines in the Northern Territory in the
1950s. In September 1945 nearly 200 Aborigines living around Tennant
Creek were relocated to Phillip Creek to keep them away from the mining
sites and to ease the demands they might make on the very limited water
supplies in the area. For the first six years the settlement was run by
the Aborigines Inland Mission which built simple dwellings from
corrugated iron and timber with cement and dirt floors. Children had to
live in dormitories and the Aborigines were forced to depend upon the
supplies at the mission for their livelihood. From 1951 until its
closure in 1956, when the Aborigines were moved on to Warrabri, the
settlement was controlled by the Northern Territory Administration who
encouraged the building of adobe huts. The abrupt departure of the
Aborigines from the settlement allows the visitor to see the harsh
conditions which passed for benevolence in the 1950s.
Attack Creek Memorial
Further north is the Attack Creek Memorial which
recalls that 'On 25 June 1860 John McDouall Stuart and his two
companions, William Kekwick and Benjamin Head, reached Attack Creek,
the most northernly point of that expedition. Hostile Natives and
illness forced the party to return.' Whatever incident occurred
between the party and the local Aborigines, it is now claimed that it
arose out of fear and misunderstanding across the language barrier.
According to some accounts the indigenous people were helpfully trying
to indicate the direction of a water source but, as they were afraid to
come too close, they shouted and gestured in the appropriate direction
with their spears and boomerangs - signs misunderstood by the European
party. At any rate, there is little of interest about the monument
itself. If visitors go down to the creek, they can see where the old
Stuart Highway used to run to the east of the current road.
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Churchills Head
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Churchill's Head
300 metres beyond the Memorial is the road to
Churchill's Head which, at the very least, gives the driver an
opportunity to traverse a portion of the Old Stuart Highway. This
roadside rock formation was named by soldiers traveling to Darwin
during World War II. Perhaps it was they who first stuck a piece of
piping in the rock to provide some comic relief to an otherwise long
and dull trip. Certainly it provides greater verisimilitude to a
likeness some find strained.
Overland Telegraph Station
Between 1860 and 1862, McDouall Stuart made three
expeditions through the area with the intent of mapping a path for the
overland telegraph which was being extended from England to Australia.
The telegraph line was completed in 1872 and a permanent repeater
station was built that year, utilising local stone for the walls and
corrugated iron for the roofing. It replaced an earlier timber
structure, built in 1870 but rapidly destroyed by termites. This
station, which lies 11 km to the north of Tennant Creek, was the first
point of European settlement in the region and was, for many years, the
only European structure within hundreds of kilometres. Nonetheless it
was regularly visited by drovers, prospectors and others traversing the
track between Adelaide and Darwin. It closed down in 1979 and currently
operates as a museum. It is generally unattended but guided tours are
usually conducted during the dry season by rangers of the Parks and
Wildlife Commission. For details ring Parks & Wildlife on (08) 8962
2793 or the Visitor Information Centre on (08) 8962 3388.
The Pebbles
'The Pebbles' are huge granite boulders located in an
area that is rich in wildlife. In truth they are no match for the
wonderful Devils Marbles,which lie further south, but the area does
have significant cultural links for the women of the local Warumungu
people. To access 'The Pebbles' head north for 11 km along the Stuart
Highway and then turn west onto a dirt road for another 6 km.
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Tourist Information
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Tennant Creek Regional Tourist Association
Battery Hill Regional Centre
Peko Rd
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 3388
Facsimile: (08) 8962 2509
Email: info@tennantcreektourism.com.au
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Motels
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Bluestone Motel
1 Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2617
Facsimile: (08) 8962 2883
Email: bluestone@swtch.com.au
Rating: ***
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Eldorado Motor Lodge
Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2402
Facsimile: (08) 8962 3034
Email: eldorado65@austarnet.com.au
Rating: **
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Safari Lodge Motel
Davidson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2207
Facsimile: (08) 8962 3188
Email: safari@swtch.com.au
Rating: **
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Hotels
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Goldfields Hotel/Motel
113 Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2030
Rating: **
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Threeways Hotel
Cnr Stuart & Barkly Hwy
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2744
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Caravan Parks
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Tennant Creek Caravan Park
Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2325
Facsimile: (08) 8962 2352
Email: tennantvanpark@bigpond.com.au
Rating: **
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Threeways Roadhouse Caravan Park
Cnr Stuart & Barkly Hwys
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2744
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Outback Caravan Park
Peko Rd
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2459
Facsimile: (08) 8962 1278
Email: outback@swtch.com.au
Rating: ****
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Restaurants
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Anna's Restaurant
Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2617
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Bootleggers (Goldfields Hotel/Motel)
113 Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2030
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Eldorado Restaurant
Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2402
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Margo Miles Restaurant
146 Paterson St
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2227
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Memories Restaurant (Tennant Creek Memorial Club)
Memorial Dve
Tennant Creek
NT
0860
Telephone: (08) 8962 2474
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