Bathurst Island
Bathurst and Melville Islands are known as the
Tiwi Islands. They are both popular destinations for one and two day
trips from Darwin.
Bathurst Island lies 80 km to the north of Darwin
across the Beagle Gulf and covers an area of 2 600 sq. km. The home of
the Tiwi Aborigines (it is now an Aboriginal Reserve) for thousands of
years the island was first sighted by Europeans in 1644 when Abel
Tasman passed by on his way from Batavia.
In 1818 Phillip Parker King, the son of NSW Governor
Philip Gidley King, explored the island and named it after Lord
Bathurst, who, at the time, was the British Secretary of State for War
and the Colonies (an unusual combination of portfolios).
King sailed between Bathurst and Melville Islands
and was the first European to discover the dangers of the changing
tides in the narrow Apsley Strait. The mangroves on the coast and the
lack of any real reason for settlement meant that the islands were of
no interest to local settlers.
Even in the 1880s, when the South Australian
journalist, William Sowden, travelled to both Melville and Bathurst
Islands he could find nothing of value and wrote that the islands were
'absolutely unproductive bits of South Australia, supporting no one but
the swarming tribes of blacks'.
The history of Bathurst Island took a fascinating
turn with the arrival of German missionary and bishop Francis Xavier
Gsell. Born in Alsace-Lorraine and educated in Rome, Gsell was a member
of the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart. He travelled to Sydney in 1897
and by 1906 was the Apostolic administrator of the Northern Territory.
In 1910 Gsell persuaded the South Australian
government to give him 10 000 acres of land on Bathurst Island to build
a mission for the Aborigines. For the next 28 years he worked on the
island although his success was limited. He did not convert a single
adult and he baptised only 113 locals in the first 15 years of his ministry.
His one contribution led him to become known as
'bishop with 150 wives'. He disapproved of the polygamous nature of
Tiwi society and so started 'buying' young girls who had been betrothed
to older men. He then let the girls marry men of their own choosing -
although he preferred that they marry men who had embraced his Christianity.
The mission achieved the dubious distinction of
being the first place in Australia to experience foreign invasion when,
on 19 February 1942, Japanese bombers, on their way to Darwin, strafed
Nguiu. The priest in charge at the time notified Darwin but his message
was ignored.
In 1978 the ownership of Bathurst Island was formerly
handed back to the Tiwi people and today the island is run by the Tiwi
Land Council. It is said that the word 'Tiwi' means 'people; we, the
people; or, perhaps, we, the chosen people'. Certainly the Tiwi people
are different in both their culture and personality to mainland
Aborigines.
People wishing to visit the island must obtain permits from
the Tiwi Island Land Council.
Things to see:
Visiting the Island
People wishing to visit the island must obtain permits
from the Tiwi Island Land Council. Contact (08) 8981 4891 or from Tiwi
Tours on Bathurst Island (08) 8924 1115.
The only practical way to visit Bathurst Island is to
take a one or two day tour (all meals and camping accommodation
provided) with Tiwi Tours. Bookings can be made through local travel
agents or by phoning 1800 811 633.