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A Little Piece of Scotland,
once the local butcher's shop
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Sutton Forest
(including Canyonleigh)
Tiny settlement in the southern highlands
south of Moss Vale.
Sutton Forest is little more than a pub, a few
buildings, a couple of antique/gift shops, a riding school and a
church. Located 129 km south-west of Sydney and 5 km from Moss Vale,
this tiny village can be missed if you blink as you drive through.
The early history of the village is much more impressive than
its current size would suggest. The first European party to investigate
the district was that of ex-convict John Wilson in 1798.
John Price, from the party, recorded that it was 'most
beautiful country, having nothing but fine large meadows with ponds of
water in them, fine green hills but very thin of trees'. They climbed
what is now called Gingenbullen Mountain to the north-west and Price
wrote:'we had a most delightful prospect of the country and in my
opinion one of the finest in the world...to the southward a most
beautiful country, more particularly to the south-east'.
Over the next decade there were minor expeditions into the
district. The Hume brothers, probably in the company of their uncle
John Kennedy, investigated the area in 1814. With pastures around
Sydney becoming scarce John Oxley drove some cattle into the area the
following year.
In 1817 Hamilton Hume and Charles Throsby explored the
country west of Sutton Forest. Throsby called the Sutton Forest area
'Cooloorigan'. Throsby returned in 1818 with surveyor-general James
Meehan en route to Jervis Bay and again the following year en route to
Bathurst. Governor Macquarie awarded Throsby 1000 acres for his efforts
and made him superintendent over the construction of a road from Picton
to the Goulburn Plains. Visiting the construction site in 1820
Macquarie named Throsby's Bong Bong grant 'Throsby Park'. With him was
a working party and six other settlers. One of them, Charles Wright,
had arrived in the colony in 1791. After working as a constable at
Parramatta he took up the land at Sutton Forest (it now forms part of
the Hillview estate) when he was 70 and died there at 93 years of age
in 1842.
Governor Macquarie was much impressed with the beauty of the
area and the quality of the soil. He named the settlement after Charles
Manners Sutton (the speaker of the British House of Commons) on 2
November 1820.
Two emancipated convicts, Edward Shipley and George Sewell,
were also given land grants in the area. Shipley, who was 62 years old
at the time, established Stonehill (now known as Sutton Farm).in
partnership with his wife Mary, another ex-convict, in 1822.
In 1828 James Atkinson of the Oldbury estate recommended the
area opposite Charles Wright's Farm, on the Medway Rivulet, as an ideal
townsite and the Surveyor-General agreed. Despite instructions to
proceed with a town layout the village was not officially established
until 1854. However, buildings began to slowly accumulate around an
Anglican chapel which was erected in 1829. At the time it was the only
church south of the Cow Pastures (the Camden area). A Church of England
school was established as early as 1826. A small township began to grow
up around three inns which lined the road - the Talbot (1833, renamed
the Royal in 1866), the Red Cow (built on George Sewell's land grant)
and the Hart (both 1834). The first store also appeared some time in
the 1830s. Despite the laying of the foundation stone in 1837 it was
1861 before the All Saints Church of England, designed by Edmund
Blacket, replaced the 1829 building.
A visitor in March of 1832 described Sutton Forest as 'a most
luxurious spot...There is as much of the English village in miniature
about this township as any I know of - a homeliness of scenery that
strikes the attention, and induces a second pause to look again at the
neat cottages, the snug little church, the light timber with its
umbrageous foliage, and the refreshing lagoons on the roadside which
incite the weary horse, or bullock to slake his thirst on a sultry
summer's day. Nearly opposite the church is the comfortable dwelling of
old 'Charley Wright', an old standard in the colony, and one of the
first inhabitants in the district, whose hospitality is proverbial'.
In the 1840s it is recorded that a white woman
living in Sutton Forest married a local Aborigine who had been baptised
- a very unusual marriage in the early history of the colony.
Bushrangers frequented the district from the 1830s to
the 1870s. The clergyman's house at Sutton Forest was raided in 1836.
One of the most infamous bushrangers, Ben Hall, together with his gang,
visited the district in 1865. They stuck up the people at Paddy's
River. They robbed the toll collector at Hanging Rock, about 14 km
south-west of Sutton Forest then struck again at Kelly's Hotel, about 5
km north of Hanging Rock. With the police in pursuit they withdrew to a
vantage point at Hanging Rock and watched the police pass by, then
returned to the Paddy's River settlement, gathered everybody there in
two inns, forced some musicians to play music, danced till dawn, sent
word they were going to Berrima to free everybody from the gaol - then
disappeared.
When the railway arrived in 1867 Sydneysiders discovered the
bracing climate and beautiful scenery of the Southern Highlands. Sutton
Forest, like other towns of the area, became a holiday resort,
particularly in the summer months when the humidity hit Sydney.
Boarding houses began to appear and wealthy Sydneysiders began to build
country retreats.
Among the new commuters were some of the colony's
politicians and when eyes were cast about for a country retreat for the
NSW governor, Sutton Forest was suggested. The government purchased
'Prospect' in 1882, the country homestead and lands of Robert
Richardson, who had the house built after his wedding to a Sutton
Forest woman in 1855. Extensive renovations were carried out, at
considerable expense, the grounds and interior were greatly improved
and Lord August Loftus became the first governor to occupy the house,
which was renamed 'Hillview'.
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Hillview House
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Once Hillview had
been established it was commonplace for the governors to travel to Moss
Vale by rail. They travelled in a vice-regal carriage and alighted at
Moss Vale where there was a special vice-regal waiting room. The
retreat was used by all state governors until 1958. It became privately
owned but the government re-purchased it in 1986.
Things to see:
Hillview
Hillview, just north of Sutton Forest on the
Illawarra Highway, was, from 1882 to 1958, the official country
residence of the governors of NSW. The homestead was built in the late
1850s by Robert Richardson. The government purchased the house and
estate in 1882 and extensive renovations were carried out, at
considerable expense. The grounds and interior were greatly improved
and Lord August Loftus became the first governor to occupy the house.
The retreat was used until 1958 when it was sold into
private hands, though the government re-purchased it in 1986. Hillview
is located on the Illawarra Highway about 2 km north of Sutton Forest.
The house is open for inspection, but only occasionally. Ring the
Southern Highlands Visitors' Centre for the exact dates on (1300) 657 559.
Newbury
A little closer to the
town, on the other side of the highway, just before the Medway Rivulet,
is what remains of 'Newbury', a 700-acre estate awarded in 1822 to
Captain John Nicholson, harbour master of Port Jackson, for refloating
the brig Lady Nelson from the bar of the Hastings River. It is reported
that he chose the name because his neighbour had named his estate Oldbury.
All Saints Church of England
All Saints Church of England was erected in 1861.
Designed by Edmund Blacket it was consecrated by Bishop Barker. The
cemetery bears testimony to the existence of the earlier church. It
became the resting place for many soldiers who were stationed at
Berrima. The visiting governors worshipped here. The gates came from
Hillview when it was sold in 1958.
The Royal Inn
Further along the road is The Royal Inn, a handsome hotel
which offers good food and pleasant surroundings. Although this
building is not very old it is on the site of the original Talbot Inn
(1833).
Sutton Farm
The most impressive building in the village is Sutton
Farm which was originally built by convicts from Berrima (c.1830). The
magnificent cedar staircase came from a 17th century church near
Dublin. The house has been extensively modified, was used in the film
Phar Lap, and is now the Highlands Equestrian Centre on the lllawarra
Highway. Situated on 50 acres they offer lessons, trail rides and
holiday camps with bed and breakfast, contact (02) 4868 2584. The
stables are of exceptional quality.
Other Attractions
Just south of the equestrian centre, on the
Illawarra Highway, is St Patrick's Church which was built in 1878-79.
It has an interesting graveyard. A slab building used as a church and a
school was erected on the site in 1854.
A few hundred metres north of the equestrian centre, on
the same side of the highway, are the Red Cow Farm gardens which are
quite beautiful and well worth a look. They are open for inspections at
certain times of the year. Again, check the times with the visitors'
centre. The cottage was originally the Red Cow Inn, erected in 1834 on
land granted to George Sewell.
Golden Vale Rd heads north-west off the Illawarra Highway at
the northern end of Sutton Forest, just south of the Medway Rivulet. It
leads to the historic home, Golden Valley, a sandstone house built in
1870 for Benjamin Carter who was the first to mine the kerosene shale
which his son discovered in the Joadja Valley and which led to the
establishment of the town (see entry on Joadja). There are a number of stone
outbuildings (stables, meat house and barn) and a weatherboard woolshed.
Black Horse Farm was originally the Black Horse Inn
(1835). Outbuildings include a slab shearing shed.Jacky Jacky was
actually taken prisoner at the Black Horse Inn when he was overpowered
by the owner during a hold-up. There is little left today so the effort
is only for the genuine enthusiast. Follow Golden Vale Rd to its
terminus at the old Hume Highway. Turn left and it can be found, about
1 km along, on the left.
Mt Broughton Golf and Country Club is located on Kater
Rd, contact (02) 4869 1597. The Celtic Market is held on the third
Sunday of each month at the Sutton Forest village hall on the Illawarra
Highway.
A Little Piece of Scotland has an extensive array of Scottish
craftware and shortbread and are open daily.
Penrose Park Monastery is home to the Catholic order of
Pauline monks. Visitors attend the Marian Devotions on the 13th of each
month. It is on Hanging Rock Rd which runs off the F5 freeway just
south of the Sutton Forest McDonald's which is located on the freeway.
The Eling Forest Vineyard is also just south of the McDonald's on the
freeway , contact (02) 4878 9499.
In the Canyonleigh area, 18 km west, is Tugalong Outback
Station, an 'adventure lodge' where horse riding, 4WD tours, abseiling,
clay pigeon shooting, wildlife tours and bushwalking can all be
pursued, contact: (02) 4878 9247. Both Tugalong and Weston Grove
Holiday Ranch (contact 02-4878 9290) are on Tugalong Rd which heads
north off Canyonleigh Rd. The latter runs west from the intersection of
the Illawarra and Hume Highways.
Highlands Trips and Treks, P.O. Box 298, Bundanoon NSW 2578.
Phone/Fax 02 4883 6523 or Mobile 015 244 714 and email
httreks@acenet.com.au offer 4WD tours and bushwalks in the Southern
Highlands and will pick you up from your accommodation, be it in Sydney
or the highlands.
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Tourist Information
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Tourism Southern Highlands
62-70 Main St
Mittagong
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4871 2888, 1300 657 559
Facsimile: (02) 4871 3515
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Hotels
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Hillview The Allsuite Heritage Hotel
Hillview Hwy
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4868 2500
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Sutton Forest Inn & Bistro
Illawarra Hwy
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4868 1697
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Cottages & Cabins
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Moosewood Farm
Lot 6 Springhill Gr
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4861 7566
Facsimile: (02) 4861 7566
Rating: ***1/2
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Hotels
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Peppers Manor House
Kater Rd
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4868 2355
Facsimile: (02) 4868 3257
Rating: ****1/2
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Wanganderry Country House
61 Inverary Rd
Paddys River
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4884 1502, 018 400 160
Facsimile: (02) 4884 1502
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Restaurants
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Sutton Forest Inn & Bistro
Illawarra Hwy
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4868 1697
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Katers, Peppers Manor House
Kater Rd
Sutton Forest
NSW
2577
Telephone: (02) 4868 2355
Facsimile: (02) 4868 3257
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