Marina and shops at Nelson Bay

Port Stephens (including Soldiers Point, Salamander Bay and Shoal Bay)
Large natural harbour north of Newcastle with a number of holiday towns around its edges.
Port Stephens is a large natural harbour which spans the 24 km between the mouth of the Karuah River to the Pacific Ocean. The harbour is divided in two by Soldiers Point.

With the exception of the suburban strip of coastline which stretches from Shoal Bay to Salamander Bay and Soldiers Point, the shoreline is dotted with small coastal villages. The area is characterised by small bays, white sandy beaches and bushland. With gamefishing, beach and rock fishing, sailing, water cruises, boat charters, bushwalking, horseriding, surfing, waterskiing, swimming and parasailing Port Stephens has become a popular holiday spot.

Port Stephens was sighted in May 1770 by Captain Cook who named it after Philip Stephens, secretary of the Admiralty. He also noted smoke from Aboriginal campfires, presumably belonging to the Worimi tribe who occupied the land from Port Stephens north to Wallis Lake and inland to the Maitland area.

The first Europeans to take up residence in the area were five convicts whose boat sunk off the Port in 1790. They were seen as reincarnated ancestors by the Worimi who aided them and accepted them into the tribe.

The harbour was entered by the convict ship the Salamander in 1791 and charted by deputy surveyor-general Charles Grimes in 1795 who described it as low and sandy. He noted that the Aborigines were taller and more solid of build than those in the Sydney area, that their languages were entirely different and that their canoes and huts were larger. When Lieutenant-Governor William Paterson made out a report of the expedition he foresaw no further interest in the site.

Governor King ordered a survey of the Port by William Paterson in 1801 and it was personally inspected by Governor Macquarie in 1812 who found the port 'good, safe, and capacious' but abandoned his plans as there were too many shoals and the land was considered too barren to support a colony.

Timbergetting commenced in the area in 1816. The exploitation of the area's abundant supply of oysters also began at this time with their incineration for lime at Carrington, Stockton and Fame Cove.

The Australian Agricultural Company (AAC) were granted half a million acres on the northern side of Port Stephens in 1826 and a base of operations was established at present-day Carrington with 80 settlers, 720 sheep and some horse and cattle. Over 200 acres were quickly cleared, vineyards established and, by 1830, an extensive settlement was in place with 600 employees, 11 permanent houses, workshops, military barracks, a smithy, a school, a shearing shed and slaughter house and other temporary buildings. Tahlee House was built for the first manager in 1826 (see entry on Karuah).

The first permanent settler was Captain William Cromarty who was granted 300 acres of land adjacent the Karuah River. In the early days passing ships and whalers used the harbour as a source of wood and water. The approaches to the Port were dangerous and there were plenty of shipwrecks: 24 by the time the first lighthouse was built at Point Stephens in 1862. Another was erected at Nelson Head in 1872. Though they may have stemmed the tide they did not end the wrecks.

After the burning of live oysters for lime was prohibited in 1868, due to stock depletion, the cultivation of oysters for consumption got under way, rapidly expanding in the 1920s, particularly at Oyster Cove. As a result the Port is now the largest single oyster-producing area in Australia. Lobsters were successfully trapped from the second half of the 19th century by Greek and then Italian settlers.

The first survey at Nelson Bay was carried out in 1874 and a post office was opened in 1883. Schools were established at Hannah Bay (now Anna Bay) in 1879 and at both Salt Ash and Nelson Bay in 1883. The Hunter River Steam Navigation Company ran picnic excursions into the area from the late 19th century into the 1940s. In the Second World War Port Stephens was used as a base by the armed forces who trained 20 000 American and 2000 Australian servicemen.

Today Port Stephens' economy is based on tourism, oyster-cultivation, fishing, prawning, dairying, timbergetting and mixed farming.

Things to see:  

Shoal Bay
Shoal Bay was supposedly named by Governor Macquarie because of its sand shoals. There is a holiday park and you can hire catamarans, paddleboats, surf skis, sailboards, canoes and waterscooters on the beach (in season). Waterskiing and paragliding can be pursued and there is a game-fishing club which hosts one of the biggest gamefishing competitions in the southern hemisphere each February. The fishing from the headlands and beaches is generally rewarding.

At the easternmost edge of Shoal Bay is Tomaree Head (168 m). There is a car park and picnic area at the base of Tomaree Head. Opposite the car park is the start of a walking track to the summit where the views are breathtaking. There are several offshore islands: Boondelbah, 3 km to the north-east covers 9 ha. It is a nesting and breeding site for little penguins, white-faced storm petrels and a variety of shearwaters. Just to its north is Cabbage Tree Island (26 ha) named after the cabbage tree palms in the two gullies on the island's western side which are the only known nesting site of Goulds petrel. It is also, reputedly, the only island with a rainforest ecosystem in Southern Australia and was the first gazetted flora and fauna reserve in NSW.

Fort Tomaree was established on the head during World War II. Two large gun emplacements (sans guns) lie along the main track. If you wish to see the other relics walk beyond the initial path, past the hospital, to a secondary track. The visitors' centre in Nelson Bay has a booklet called "The Guns of Tomaree" if you wish to know more.

Walk to Zenith Beach, Tomaree National Park

Tomaree Head
Tomaree Head lies at the northeastern tip of Tomaree National Park which covers 896 ha of the southern peninsula from the headland at the northeastern tip following a strip south and then west around the coast to Boat Harbour and Little Kingsley Beach. The beaches are attractive and ideal for swimming and fishing. The park is full of birdlife and, from July to February, wildflowers. In all, the bushland around Port Stephens supports considerable biological diversity: 230 bird species, 48 mammal species and 650 plant species.

Fingal Bay
Fingal Bay has a resort, a patrolled beach, a boat ramp and fishing from both the beach and from Fingal Head. Whales can sometimes be spotted offshore between September and November or, less frequently from late May to July. They like to rub their barnacles off on a reef 50 m offshore.Fingal Bay was originally known as False Bay as, in the 19th century, it was sometimes mistaken for the entrance to Port Stephens.

Point Stephens
From the beach Point Stephens looms just to the north. The site of numerous shipwrecks a lighthouse was installed there in 1862. It was designed by colonial architect Alexander Dawson and made of Sydney sandstone. At that time the Point was joined to the mainland by a narrow spit - 200 m wide, 5 m above sea-level, covered with bushes and also, by the end of the 19th century, with telegraph poles. A gale washed most of the spit away in 1891. However, at low tide, the remaining sandbar can still be crossed. The cylindrical lighthouse is still operational and the vantage point is excellent.

Rocky coastline at Fishermans Bay, Salamander Bay

The fit can actually walk to Fingal Bay from Box Beach. Walking tracks continue around the coastline to Samurai and One Mile Beaches, where there are more paths to explore. The former is an authorised nude bathing beach and the latter has a resort complex. The Nelson Bay visitors' centre has a booklet called "Bushwalks Around Port Stephens".

Stockton Beach
Stockton Beach is an unvegetated mass of mobile sand dunes which stretch westwards for 34 km, rising up to 30 m above sea-level. Each year the dunes creep a little further to the north. Used for horseracing by the early settlers Stockton Beach is now noted for its fishing, the wreck of the Sygna and a fenced off Aboriginal midden containing bones and shells which date back 1240 years. It is also known as the nesting site for one of Australia's most endangered birds, the little tern. Hundreds of mutton birds are washed ashore in September and October of each year after dropping dead from exhaustion during their lengthy migration flight. Horizon Safaris offer 6WD tours into the area (tel: 02-4982 6328 or 018-681600). You can also explore the beach by camel if you so desire with Walkabout Camel Adventures, tel: (02) 4964 8996, or by horse with Sahara Horse Trails, tel: 015-290340.

Soldiers Point
Soldiers Point was originally known as Friendship Point the name was probably changed owing to a small garrison of soldiers which was established here in 1826 to stop convict escapees from Port Macquarie making their way across the narrow stretch of water to the settlement further south.

Salt Ash
Salt Ash was named after a town in Cornwall. It was first settled by Europeans in 1816 with the first land grant being issued in 1837. Attractions in the area include Oakvale Farm and Fauna World where there is an animal nursery, aviaries, a farm museum, native fauna, farm animals, pony rides, merry-go-rounds, a kiosk, barbecue areas and tractor rides. It is open from 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. daily with bottle feedings and nursing at 11.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m., and duck feeding at 1.00 p.m., tel: (02) 4982 6222.

Turn right into Lemon Tree Passage Rd which goes north-east to Tilligerry Peninsula. Containing a considerable diversity of native flora and birdlife, and one of the most significant koala colonies in the state, it is divided off from the rest of the southern peninsula by Tilligerry Creek which extends from Salt Ash into the waters of the Port. 'Telegherry', as it was formerly spelled, means pelican. There are several islands sandwiched between the banks. Early visitors used to travel by coach to the Salt Ash wharf at the western end of the creek and then proceed by boat to the scattered coastal settlements of the Port.

Tanilba House
'Tanilba' is said to mean 'place of white flowers', presumably a reference to the flannel flowers which formerly thrived in the area. The centrepiece of this small township is Tanilba House: a beautiful and elegant home which is one of Australia's oldest historical buildings.

Tanilba House was built for Lieutenant Caswell, a naval officer. He and his family emigrated in 1828. Caswell established farm sites at Seaham (23 km north) and Salt Ash and opted to build his homestead on the 50 acres he received at Tanilba. Utilising convict labour he started with a slab hut in 1829, expanding to a cottage in 1831, and laid the foundations of Tanilba House in 1837, built of quartz porphyry stone which was quarried nearby. The mortar came from lime produced by burning oysters. Vineyards, gardens and a dairy were established.

The growing family were on good terms with the local Aborigines whose children played with their own. However, there numbers soon diminished as they did throughout the colony. Emily Caswell wrote in 1841:

When we first came here all around we saw nothing but the blacks' fires and canoes, but now only a dozen are left of our tribes...they bring fish and oysters for flour...our blacks are harmless inoffensive people...their children are stout and spend half their day in the sea...each tribe had land allotted...they used to fight among themselves very often and had 'corroborys' - jumping up and down; and mourning by smearing themselves with white clay, saying [enigmatically] "Die - jump up white man".

The Caswells lived at Tanilba for fifteen years. The family house was sold in 1886 and stood derelict until 1897. Rather than being a museum piece Tanilba House, for all of its elegance, has a very comfortable, casual, rustic and lived-in feel to it. Indeed it is still lived in - by Helen Taylor who has a homely range of dogs, doves and domesticated fowl. For a small entry fee she will give you a brief tour of the house, a freshly brewed cup of coffee and, for an additional fee, a devonshire tea.

The views out across the front lawn and the bay are excellent. Offshore lies Snapper Island, a nature reserve dominated by a huge Morton Bay fig. The exterior facade is very attractive. The rooms are large with high ceilings and walls a half-metre thick - to cool the house in summer and retain heat in winter. There is a small gaol and an exterior kitchen: reminders of the days of convicts and servants. The house has numerous and genuinely interesting historic displays. There are letters written by the Caswells, dressmaker's dummies adorned with delicate dresses and underwear from the late nineteenth century, old newspapers and crockery, antique furnishings and presses, a remarkable book collection with items dating back to the 17th century, and other memorabilia. The house is open for inspections Wednesdays, weekends, and every day during school and public holidays, tel: (02) 4982 4866.

Tilligerry Habitat
Also in town is Tilligerry Habitat, a volunteer and charitable organisation formed in 1993 to try and reverse the severe degradation of the ecology, and hence the koala habitat, caused by sand mining. An ongoing and, to date, highly fruitful rehabilitation endeavour ensued. They offer guided interpretive walks which take in the area's ecology, koala habitats, heritage (Aboriginal and European), bush tucker and birds and come highly recommended. They have a pamphlet outlining the 1.7-km Dundulla Track down at the Tanilba waterfront which leads through bushland identifying various plants and their usages within Worimi culture.

Tilligerry Habitat also have arts and crafts displays and sales, and books on the area's ecology and history. The shop is open from 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. daily and is located at the Tilligerry Plaza in President Wilson Walk. tel: (02) 4984 5677.

Collecting worms on the beach at Salamander Bay

Lemon Tree Passage
Lemon Tree Passage was originally called Kooindah (meaning 'clear water'). It is a leafy, tranquil and attractive retirement centre only subdivided in 1962 (there were just 30 residents in 1931). There are several theories concerning the origins of the town's name. It is said that lemon trees were mysteriously found growing on the point by early settlers (possibly washed ashore from other settlements). Another is that they were in fact a native plant called cheesebush which is similar in appearance. A third concerns a lemon tree orchard grown by a resident.

A particularly enjoyable thing to do is inspect the native flora reserve in Helen Ave. Another two walks - the Mangrove Board Walk and the Lilli Pilli Walk - are located at the tip of the peninsula in Koala Park. Lemon Tree Coffee and Crafts provide tourist information from 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. daily, tel: (02) 4984 5433. There is a marina with boats for hire and a holiday resort.

Tours and Tickets
There are a number of ways to get around Port Stephens: the Bay Explorer Ticket facilitates exploration on the local bus service, there is a network of cycleways, and a regular ferry service runs across to Tea Gardens on the northern shore. Horizon Safaris offer 6WD excursions around the area, tel: (02) 4982 6328, as do Sand Safaris Active Adventure Tours (tel: 02 4965 0215 or info@sandsafaris.com.au). Larkwood Tours provide mini-bus treks about Port Stephens, tel: (02) 4982 4656 or 0417-254 791. The visitors' centre also has an access guide for those with mobility restrictions.

	Motels
	Corlette Palms Motor Inn 104 Sandy Point Rd Corlette Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4981 1833 Facsimile: (02) 4984 1845 Rating: ***
	Lemon Tree Passage Motel 47 Meredith Ave Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 3300 Facsimile: (02) 4982 5999 Rating: ***1/2
	Salamander Shores Motel/Hotel 147 Soldiers Point Rd Sholdiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7210 Facsimile: (02) 4982 7890 Rating: ***
	Santa Catalina Motel 9 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1519 Rating: **
	Shoal Bay Motel 59-61 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1744 Facsimile: (02) 4984 1052 Rating: ***1/2
	Water Wonderland Motel 122 Soldiers Point Rd Sholdiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7300 Facsimile: (02) 4982 0425 Rating: ***
	Resorts
	Colonial Ridge Resort 4 Fleet St Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 0600 Facsimile: (02) 4982 0611 Rating: ***
	Rydges Resort Port Stephens 265 Sandy Point Rd Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4984 1111 or 1800 025 960 Rating: ***
	Shoal Bay Resort and Spa Shoal Bay Rd Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: 1800 18 18 10 Rating: ****1/2
	Horizons Golf Resort & Conference Centre 5 Horizons Dve Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 0502, 1800 634 734 Facsimile: (02) 4982 0150 Rating: ****
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Beachgarden Bed & Breakfast 7 Randall Dve Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 0788 Rating: ***
	Birubi Beach Bed & Breakfast 39 Ocean Ave Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1520 or 018 602 168 Rating: ***
	Larkwood of Lemon Tree Bed & Breakfast 1 Oyster Farm Rd Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 4656 Facsimile: (02) 4982 4656 Rating: ****
	The Bays Bed & Breakfast 23 Port Stephens Dve Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1438 Rating: ***
	The Retreat Bed & Breakfast 266 Nelson Bay Rd Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1244 Rating: **
	The Retreat Bed & Breakfast 266 Nelson Bay Rd Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1244 Rating: **
	Wanda Beach House Bed & Breakfast 171 Soldiers Point Rd Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7100 Rating: ***
	Holiday Homes & Units
	Adrianna Holiday Units 83 Ronald Ave Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 9543 4085 or (02) 95286329
	Bay Village 47 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Facsimile: (02) 4984 1256 Rating: **
	Bella Vista Holiday Units 19 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Rating: ***
	Blue Waters Holiday Units 59 Ronald Ave Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Rating: **
	Del Rae Holiday Units 25 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Rating: **
	Fleetwood 6 63 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1744
	Harbourside Holiday Units 7 Soldiers Point Rd Sholdiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4981 1955 Rating: ***
	Shoal Bay Flats 50 Ronald Ave Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1259 Rating: ***
	Sundeck Holiday Units 51 Ronald Ave Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Rating: **
	Sundeck Holiday Units 51 Ronald Ave Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1999 Rating: **
	The Crest Holiday Units 6 Tomaree Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4984 1120
	The Gibbers Unit 1/35 Gibbers Dve Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 3200 Facsimile: (02) 4984 5667 Rating: ***
	The Point Holiday Units 5 Mitchell St Sholdiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4981 1955 Rating: **
	Cottages & Cabins
	Holmes Cottage 42 Dean St Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 3200 Facsimile: (02) 4984 5667 Rating: ***
	Peach Haven 13 Dean St Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 3200 Facsimile: (02) 4984 5667 Rating: ***
	Caravan Parks
	Birubi Beach Caravan Park James Patterson Rd Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1263 Rating: **
	Island Caravan Village Fenningham's Island Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1207
	Salamander Bay Caravan Park 208 Soldiers Point Rd Salamander Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7287 Rating: **
	Shoal Bay Holiday Park Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1427 Rating: ***
	Water Wonderland Holiday Village 122 Soldiers Point Rd Soldiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7300 Facsimile: (02) 4982 0425 Rating: ***
	Koala Shores Port Stephens 2 Oyster Farm Rd Lemon Tree Passage Port Stephens NSW 2319 Telephone: (02) 4982 4401 Facsimile: (02) 4982 4294 Rating: ****
	Middle Rock Caravan Park 784 Gan Gan Rd Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1162 Rating: ****
	One Mile Beach Holiday Park Gan Gan Rd Anna Bay Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 1112 Rating: ****
	Backpackers
	Shoal Bay Backpackers (YHA) 59-61 Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 1744 Facsimile: (02) 4984 1052 Rating: ****
	Houseboats
	Splinters Cruiser - The Anchorage Peppers Anchorage Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 6574 7118 Facsimile: (02) 6574 7280 Rating: ****1/2
	Restaurants
	Deckies Restaurant Soldiers Point Marina Soldiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4984 6611
	Marco's Restaurant Shoal Bay Rd Shoal Bay Port Stephens NSW 2315 Telephone: (02) 4981 2980
	Merretts, Peppers Anchorage Corlette Point Rd Corlette Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4984 2555, 1800 809 142 Facsimile: (02) 4984 0300
	Salamander Shores 147 Soldiers Point Rd Soldiers Point Port Stephens NSW 2317 Telephone: (02) 4982 7210 Facsimile: (02) 4982 7890