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Nimbin
Rocks
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Nimbin
Australia's
most famous hippie destination
There was a time was a sleepy little dairy
village hidden in the hills behind Lismore and Murwillumbah. Being 785
km north of Sydney via the Pacific Highway and Lismore (it is 25 km
north of Lismore), and being on the edge of the Nightcap National Park,
it was an isolated settlement where things had barely changed since the
arrival of Europeans in the 1840s. Then in 1973 the Australian Union of
Students (AUS) chose the Nimbin Valley as the venue for an experimental
Aquarius Festival. The festival was to be 'a total, cultural experience
through the lifestyle of participation' and attracted students,
alternative lifestylers and hippies from all over Australia. It was an
extraordinary period when people put up tents and camped and talked and
dreamed. Most of the weekend visitors returned to the cities and their
regular jobs but a small number of idealists and visionaries stayed on
and formed the basis of a lifestyle experiment which has attracted
attention over the years.
Before European settlement the area was inhabited by
the Bundjalung, Nimbinjee and Whiyabul Aborigines. It has been
suggested that the town's name comes from the Nimbinjee people.
The early settlers in the area were timber cutters and
farmers. The timber cutters moved through the area in the 1840s
searching for cedar and other hardwoods. The town was subdivided in
1903 and gazetted in 1906. By 1908 the district was producing enough
dairy products to justify the establishment of a local Dairy Co-operative.
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St Marys Anglican Church
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The town's dairy
industry was in decline by the 1960s and in many ways, although the
locals were initially resistant to change, the arrival of the
alternative lifestyle community sustained the entire region.
After the Aquarius Festival the Tuntable Falls
Co-ordination Co-operative was established. It purchased 486 hectares
for $100,000 and sold 500 shares in the co-operative for $200 each.
This was the beginning of the radicalisation of the valley and it led
to the establishment of other co-operatives including Paradise Valley
Pastoral Company and Nmbngee.
The 'alternative society' has been able to prosper
because this is impossibly rich land with a rainfall which ranges from
1500-2000 mm per year and which is ideal, particularly in the pockets
of rich rainforest, for the growing of bananas, paw paws, mangoes and
kiwi fruit. Some of these fruit are grown commercially and sent to the
markets in Sydney and Brisbane.
It is equally true that many of the people who settled in the
area were deeply committed to alternative forms of agriculture. Today,
local practitioners of permaculture, organic food growing and energy
efficiency are at the cutting edge of world developments.
Visions of Nimbin is an annual festival held in
September.
Things to see:
Nimbin Rocks
The remains of ancient, eroded volcanic dyke the Nimbin
Rocks are located on the Lismore Road 3 km south of the town. It has
been estimated that they are 20 million years old. It is claimed that
the rocks have special significance to the local Aborigines who regard
them as a sacred burial site. They can be seen on the west side of the road.
Cullen Street
For most visitors Nimbin is a different world. A
timewarp where bright psychedelic colours, people with their eyes
firmly on the idealism of the 1960s, vegetarianism, alternative health
therapies are all part of daily life. To wander along the main street
of Nimbin is to experience this timewarp. The cafes are full of
wholesome food. The shops are full of crafts. This is the heart of the
Nimbin experience. Walk along the street and absorb the atmosphere. The
Rainbow Cafe is probably the most famous of all the venues on the main
street. The Nimbin Museum is a record of the town's hippie history.
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The Community Centre
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Bush Factory
This is the town's old Butter Factory. It has been
converted into a cultural centre and is the home of a recording studio,
a restaurant, a theatre and a studio for dance/video.
Nightcap National Park
The ridges, peaks and gullies of Nightcap National Park
(4945 ha) consist of solidified and eroded lava from the extinct Mt
Warning volcano which once covered 4000 square kilometres from Coraki
in the south to Beenleigh in the north, from Kyogle in the west to the
volcanic reefs in the ocean to the east.
The fertile soil which derived from the igneous rock,
together with the state's highest rainfall, has created one of the
state's finest sections of subtropical rainforest. Some of the park's
enormous brush box are thought to be up to 1500 years old. The park is
also of spiritual importance to the Bundjalung Aboriginal people and is
now World Heritage listed.
There are two main locations for vehicle-based visitors in
the park: Mount Nardi and Terania Creek. Mt Nardi is one of the park's
highest peaks. To get there, take the right-hand fork at the Freemasons
Hotel and head out of town across the valley. Follow the road for about
12 km, ignoring the turnoffs to Turntable Falls and The Channon. There
are visitor facilities at the summit and a 1-km walking track to Mt
Matheson. From Mt Matheson the 8-km Matheson Track leads east,
eventually linking up with the Nightcap Track. The latter was
originally a pack-horse trail constituting the first overland link
between the Richmond and Tweed Valleys.
Pholi's Walk (there is a brochure available from National
Parks and Wildlife) is a 2-km link track that leads from the Matheson
Track to Pholi's Lookout (named after Athol Pholi who was killed by a
falling tree). The lookout provides outstanding views of the Tweed and
Doon Doon Valleys. It can also be reached via the Googarna Track (7 km
one-way) which leaves the Mt Nardi Rd about 500 m before you reach the
summit. It heads west through rainforest, past the lookout, to the
remnants of the Kunghur Flying Fox (used by timbergetters to transport logs).
To get to the Terania Creek Picnic Area take the
aforementioned turnoff to The Channon. If you turn right at The Channon
onto Terania Creek Rd (unsealed, narrow and rough for large vehicles)
it leads, after 9.5 km, to the picnic area. There are two causeways en
route so be careful in wet weather.
At the picnic area there is a turning circle set within a
glade of the rainforest. It is a 1.4-km return walk to Protestors Falls
which is set amidst beautiful rainforest featuring dense thickets of
bangalow palms. The falls were named after the protestors who carried
on an anti-logging campaign here in the late 1970s and early 1980s
which led to the declaration of the national park in 1983. Another walk
follows an old logging track adjacent Terania Creek.
For further information ring (02) 6627 0200 on weekdays.
The Channon
The Channon is a pretty village perched on a hilltop
which is noted for its artistic alternative community. The premier
markets in the area are held at Coronation Park on the second Sunday of
each month. They are an ideal place to check out the rich arts and
crafts of the area. Opera at The Channon is a black-tie event held on
the first of August. The village is named after a local palm, the sight
of which, it is believed, helped Aborigines navigate their way from the
coast. It has a tavern and camping grounds.
To get there, take the right-hand fork at the
Freemasons Hotel and head out of town across the valley. Follow the
road for about 5 or 6 km then take the right-hand turn to The Channon
which is another 13 km away.
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Motels
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Nimbin Motel
413 Crofton Rd
Nimbin
NSW
2480
Telephone: (02) 6689 1420
Rating: *
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Hotels
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Freemasons Hotel
Cullen St
Nimbin
NSW
2480
Telephone: (02) 6689 1246
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Grannys Farm On The Creek Guesthouse
110 Cullen Bridge
Nimbin
NSW
2480
Telephone: (02) 6689 1333
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Caravan Parks
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Nimbin Caravan Park
Sibley St
Nimbin
NSW
2480
Telephone: (02) 6689 1402
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Restaurants
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Nimbin Pizza & Trattoria
70 Cullen St
Nimbin
NSW
2480
Telephone: (02) 6689 1427
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