St Alban's Church of England, Muswellbrook

Muswellbrook
Interesting historic town in the Hunter Valley
Muswellbrook is a substantial and very attractive country town of historic buildings and tree-lined streets situated beside the Hunter River, 257 km north of Sydney, 26 km south of Scone and 144 metres above sea-level. It is an expanding centre due to the employment opportunities provided by the eight coalmines in the district, the presence of the Liddell and Bayswater Power Stations and a flourishing wine grape industry. Thus the population of the shire increased from less than 8000 in 1976 to around 16 000 by 1997 with 26 per cent of the workforce employed in the mining, electricity, gas and water sectors in 1991. Muswellbrook also continues to fulfill its role as a service centre to the dairying and agricultural activities of the countryside which still supports a large number of horse studs.

The area was once occupied by the Wanaruah Aboriginal people and possibly the Kamilaroi. Certainly the two tribes had trade and ceremonial links. The Wanaruah favoured goannas as a food source, covering larger animals in hot ashes and stuffing them with grass. They also adopted burning off practices as the new shoots which emerged after fire attracted kangaroos which they surrounded and killed with clubs and spears (du-rane) barbed with sharp stones. They also used stone axes (mogo) made of hard volcanic rock bound to a wooden handle.

The Kamilaroi tribe was subdivided into clans and classes which determined marital possibilities (girls being often betrothed in infancy and married by about 14). They wore opossum clothing and, for ceremonial or ornamental purposes, smeared themselves with red ochre and pipe clay, scarred their bodies and wore decorative headwear. Once one of the largest linguistic communities in Australia their last known formal communal ceremony was held in 1905.

European settlement followed in the wake of John Howe's expedition to the Singleton district in 1820 and Henry Dangar's pursuit of the Hunter further north in 1824. That year Dangar reserved a village site at the junction of the Hunter and the creek at the southern end of the present townsite which he named Muscle Brook due to the large numbers of mussel shells he found on its banks (at the time 'muscle' was an accepted alternative spelling of mussel).

The first Chief Justice of NSW, Francis Forbes, an important figure in early colonial judicial history, was granted the land which now constitutes South Muswellbrook in 1825. He named his estate 'Skellater' after the family's ancestral estate in Aberdeen in Scotland.

A township was laid out and gazetted in 1833 as Musclebrook with the first allotments sold the following year (the very first block is now occupied by the Royal Hotel). The first post office was established in 1837 and that year, when Edward Denny Day was made first police magistrate of the district, a mounted police force, police barracks and courthouse were established.

For nearly sixty years the town's name was spelled in every way imaginable. Musclebrook, Muscle Brook, Muswellbrook, Muswell Brook, Muscletown and Musswellbrook were all employed. Day appears to have been the first to change the spelling of the town from Muscle Brook to Muswell Brook. It was only at the end of the 1880s that 'Muswellbrook' was consistently employed although it was not officially gazetted as such until 1949.

By 1840 the population was 215. There were 41 houses as well as some inns and shops. A flour mill was built around 1841, reflecting the fact that wheat, along with wool, was the centrepiece of the local economy.

In 1842 the sons of Francis Forbes established the private village of Forbestown south of Muscle Creek but due to confusion with the town of Forbes it was changed to South Muswellbrook in 1848.

When the railway arrived in 1869 it boosted the local economy as the settlement became the northern railhead and the population climbed to about 1500. However, when this advantage passed on to Scone the town shrunk again.

Bayswater Power Station between Singleton and Muswellbrook

When Muswellbrook was declared a municipality in 1870 the population was 1445. Coalmining began in the 1890s although truly large-scale coal mining didn't get under way until more recently. There are now eight mines operating in the area (seven of them open-cut) with another six proposed.

After the First World War the larger properties were broken up into smaller farms with dairying supplanting wool and wheat.

Writer Donald Horne, author of The Lucky Country, was raised in Muswellbrook and wrote of his experiences in The Education of Young Donald (1967).

The town's Agricultural Show is held in April and the Spring Wine Festival in October. The Muswellbrook Cup is held on Melbourne Cup Day.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
The town's newly opened Tourist Information Centre is located at 87 Hill St. To get there drive north along Bridge St (the highway) and turn left into Hill St. A heritage walk brochure is available along with general information about the area. Enquiries about visits to the many local horse studs should be directed here.

HERITAGE WALK
Loxton House
The tourist information centre is located behind Loxton House which was built in the mid-1840s as a shop for Thomas Kerr. Later it became a residential site. During this period a Mr Hutchinson hanged himself in the cellars. The building is now used for offices and shops with a restaurant at the rear where there are modern additions.

Bridge St - North
Head north along Bridge St. The two-storey stone and brick building at the St Vincent's centre was erected in the 1850s for an ex-convict employee of the St Heliers Estate named John Maddy. Carl Brecht, a German settler who planted the first vineyard of the Upper Hunter in 1864 on his Rosemount Estate (see entry on Denman), established stone wine cellars to the rear of the building in 1882, setting himself up as a spirit and wine merchant. Subsequently a cordial factory and bakery, the building has undergone many changes.

Just past it is Eatons Hotel, a lovely old two-storey building with roundheaded French windows and an enormous verandah featuring fluted cast-iron columns and decorative lacework supported at ground level by squared timber posts. The White Hart Hotel, licensed by Ann Ward, was built on this spot in 1839. It was replaced by the present building in 1873. A tribute to its antiquity is the opening beside the main entrance which was designed to allow access to the stables at the rear. Additions were made in 1866 and 1929. Forbes Flats is a nice old sandstock rubble building on the Wilkins St corner, also dating from the 1850s.

Further north by the corner of Bridge and Wilkins Sts is 'The Old Tea House', a cafe and craft shop. This building was erected as a residence by local stonemason J.H. Wilkins in the 1870s. It was later named 'Kildonan' after the vessel which returned the Wilkins brothers from World War I. Additions were made in the 1910s and in 1940.

Hill St (Presbyterian Complex)
Return southwards along Bridge Cross turning left into Hill St. To the left is St John's Presbyterian Church, designed by W.L. Pender and erected 1913-15, with an arched lancet doorway , a fine cedar door, an impressive spire and a beautiful interior, especially the roof, organ and pulpit. The headstones of early Presbyterian settlers John and Janet Ferguson, who died in 1843 and 1851 respectively, are built into a nook on the western side of the church.

The next building on the left is an earlier St John's, erected in 1843. The Reverend John Dunmore Lang, a significant figure in colonial church history, preached here in 1850. It is now a Sunday School Hall.

Further up the hill, at the corner with Sowerby St, is the former Presbyterian manse, designed by John Pender and built of brick and iron with gables in 1876-77. The verandah has French doors and some attractive decoration around the columns. It is now a private residence.

On the other side of Sowerby St, with a sandstone rubble fence, is the former hospital, a very fine building erected in 1864 with 1880s additions attributed to J. Horbury Hunt.

St James Catholic Church, Muswellbrook

Catholic Precinct
Turn south down Sowerby St and take the first right into Brook St where you will find the Catholic precinct. The first Catholic church was erected on this site in 1861. The present St James, with its attractive belltower, dates from 1911. Parts of the school date back to the 1880s and the presbytery to 1896.

Bridge St - South
Continue down Brook St to the intersection with Bridge St. The south-eastern corner is known as Campbell's Corner. This was the base of James Campbell's operations in the Hunter Valley where he owned a chain of stores. Now Franklin's and Matthew's Jewellers the first section of this building was opened in 1870 with later additions. The clock tower was added in 1911.

Turn left heading south along Bridge St. To the left are the post office (1885) which stands in front of the old telegraph office (1861). Next door is the old School of Arts (1871, extended 1913). It is now the town hall building. On the first floor is the Muswellbrook Regional Gallery which features a large mural by a local artist, open Tuesdays to Fridays from 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. or by appointment, tel: (02) 6543 3984.

Over the road, occupying the first town allotment ever sold (in 1834) is the Royal Hotel (1893). There have been licensed premises on the site since 1835.

William Street
Turn left into William St past the piazza. To the left is the single-storey brick police station (c.1868) with stone sills and a well-preserved interior.

Market Street
Return back along William St taking the left into Market St before reaching Bridge St. The park to the right is Simpson Park, established in 1874 and featuring trees supplied by the Royal Botanical Gardens of Sydney in 1876.

Further down Market St is the small brick railway station, regarded as typical of its day. Built in 1869 it was opened by the Earl of Belmore. The arrival of the train line was a boon to the local economy as Muswellbrook became, for a time, the northern railhead. A coach service connected the station with a coach service which headed through Denman, Merriwa and Cassilis.

Opposite is the Railway Hotel (c.1882) which became a cordial factory later in the 19th century.

South Muswellbrook
Return along Market St to Bridge St and turn left under the railway overpass and over Muscle Brook into the area which became known as Forbestown when the Forbes family subdivided their estate in 1842 and which became South Muswellbrook in 1848.

To the right, opposite Haydon St, is Boyle's Real Estate which started its life c.1850 as the Plough Inn and continued as licensed premises until 1885 when it became a boarding house.

A little further along, also to the right are Anne Hassall Real Estate and the Valley Hotel-Motel. The former was erected in the 1880s as a residence and shop and parts of the latter date back to 1842-43 when it was Forbestown's first inn, the Muswellbrook Family Hotel.

Over the road Maitland St (the New England Highway) heads south-east to Singleton and Maitland. The Prince of Wales Hotel, at this intersection, started out in 1852 as the Cross Keys Hotel, becoming the Prince of Wales in 1865. A little further along Maitland St, at the corner with Haydon St, is Hennor, built in 1886 for solicitor and former Mayor of Muswellbrook Robert Fitzgerald. The detached building was used as his office.

Hunters Terrace
Return to Bridge St turning right and heading north again, back under the railway bridge. Turn left into William St and then right into Hunters Terrace. To the left, at no. 12, is Brighton Villa built c.1870 as a residence for railway contractor George Blunt and named after Brighton in England where he was born.

The building opposite, at 9-11 Hunter Terrace, dates back to the 1840s and retains its original sandstone facade.

Anglican Complex
A little further north, also to the right, is the Anglican parish hall, built in 1874 as the church school and schoolmaster's residence. The front section was designed by J. Horbury Hunt, arguably Australia's most notable colonial architect. It was made of bonded brick taken from the original St Alban's Anglican Church (1839-45). The adjacent residence has prominent chimneys and a stone-flagged verandah.

On the other side of Brook St is St Alban's Church of England (1864-1869), designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, at the time the most famous church architect in England. J. Horbury Hunt was appointed by Edmund Blacket to oversee its erection. In the 1880s Hunt contributed the beautiful timber bellcote which stands separate from the church proper. Its design is reiterated in the lovely picket fence, also by Hunt. The two have been painted the same colour to emphasise the connection. He also oversaw the floral painting on the interior woodwork.

Over the road is the rectory, built as a private residence for the sister of Canon White in 1871 and purchased by the church in 1937. It may also have been designed by Hunt.

Bridge Street - Middle Section
Turn right into Brook St then left back into Bridge St. On the left is the former Methodist Church (now Uniting) built 1913-15 of red brick and sandstone rubble on the site of the original church (1862). Almost directly over the road is the brick and stucco former Masonic Hall (1888), identifiable by the awning which still proclaims the building's origins though it is now the AMP building.

Continue along Bridge St and to the left, unmistakably, is the sandstone rubble building known as Weidmann Cottage, a residence cum store dating from the 1840s. It is considered a typical example of a middle-class Victorian residence. It was purchased by the Weidmann family in 1891 who set it up as a butcher's shop. It was restored in 1988 and is now a heritage centre (home of the local historical society), open Saturdays from 9.30 a.m. - 1.30 p.m.

HOMESTEADS
Birralee
On the eastern side of town, at the intersection of Brentwood and Brecht Sts, is the outstanding 'Birralee', a large late Victorian villa built in 1893 for Dr Gregson, a member of the White family (the nobel laureate Patrick White was the family's most famous member). It was designed by J. Horbury Hunt during what is considered his finest domestic architecture period and is the only one of its sort in the Hunter region. Gregson hired Hunt when he saw his work on St Albans Church and through Gregson Hunt went on to do a good deal of work for the White family. The house features extensive verandahs with iron columns, intricate gables with finials and timber bargeboards, and a complex roof with two chimneys.

Skellatar House
Take Sydney St towards Denman. Turn left into Anzac Parade then left again into Tindale St. On the right, above the road, is Skellatar House which was designed by Edmund Blacket in 1883 and built on one of the first local land grants, made out in 1825 to Francis Forbes. Skellatar was named after the family estate near Aberdeen, Scotland. Forbes was appointed first Chief Justice of NSW in 1823. He was also an MLA (Member of the Legislative Assembly) and a member of the executive council until it was decided these positions clashed with his judicial duties. He clashed with Governor Darling on a number of issues during his tenure.

Balmoral
About 2 km along Sydney Street, to the right, is Balmoral, a two-storey brick house built in the late 1850s for William Bowman who became the town's first mayor and an MLA. It is still in the family. There is a two-storey verandah on three sides with 12-pane windows on the ground floor, French windows above and gabled dormer windows to the attics.

Edinglassie
Just past it, also on the right, is Edinglassie (1880 with additions from 1895), a gracious mansion built for the White family on land originally granted to George Forbes, the brother of Francis. The stables and outbuildings form a sort of courtyard to the main house and were designed by J. Horbury Hunt in 1874. They were commissioned by James White Jr who was born at Stroud.

Lake Liddell
Lake Liddell Recreation Area is an ideal spot for boating, waterskiing, camping and picnics. There is a bird sanctuary, a picnic-barbecue area, an oval, tennis courts, a parking area, a kiosk, toilets and showers. A small fee is charged for usage.

The lake covers 1133 ha, is 35 m deep and has a storage capacity of 152 000 megalitres. It was constructed to store cooling water (replenished by the Hunter River) to the Liddell Power Station which produces 2000 megawatts of electricity from four steam-driven turbo-generators, using coal from local mines as their fuel source. The generators sit inside a turbine hall which is 300 m long, 40 m wide and 34 m high.

If you are heading south along the New England Highway the access road to the recreation area runs off to the left about 13 km from Muswellbrook. It continues on past the lake and some open-cut mining through scenic countryside. After about 7 km there is a right turn which will take you the 8 km back to the highway.

Bayswater Power Station
Liddell and Bayswater Power Stations are owned and operated by State-owned corporation, Macquarie Generation. They have a total of 4640 megawatts of electrical geenrating capacity and employ some 550 people. State of the art technology is used to supply about 15% of the power consumed in NSW, Victoria, Queensland, South Australia and the ACT. Bayswater is the equal largest thermal power station in Australia and is identified immediately by its four 132m high cooling towers that maximise water conservation by recovering vast amounts of water vapour that would otherwise be lost through evaporation.

Lemington Rd
27 km south-east of Muswellbrook via the highway, Lemington Rd heads off to the right. It takes you past the Hunter Valley Mine, recently the scene of major industrial disputes between Rio Tinto and its employees, to the Singleton-Denman Rd (17 km). Glimpses of the mine and the surrounding countryside are available from the roadside en route.

Wineries
At the northern end of town Bridge St crosses the railway line. Take the immediate left into Aberdeen St then the first right into Kayuga Rd. Cross the river and turn left into Wybong Rd. After about 14 km take the right into Ridgelands Rd (to Bunnan) then, after 7 km, turn left heading south along Yarraman Rd. Reynolds Yarraman is a couple of kilometres along this road. They are open for tastings and sales 7 days from 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. (11.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. on Sundays), tel: (02) 6547 8127. The old sandstone building was originally part of the Bengala homestead near Muswellbrook (1837), being reconstructed on the present site in the 1970s.

Follow Yarraman Rd south for about 6 km (ignore Post Office Rd on the left) and turn left back into Wybong Rd. A couple of kilometres along is Cruickshank Callatoota Estate, a specialist in Cabernet Sauvignon and winner of the Hunter Valley Tourism Award for Excellence. There is a barbecue and childrens' play area. The winery is open 7 days from 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. for tastings and sales, tel: (02) 6547 8149.

St Heliers
To the north of Muswellbrook, McCully's Gap Rd heads off to the right. After 1.3 km there is a private roadway to the left which leads to the administration office of what is now a correction centre, the administration office being St Heliers Vale homestead (1900).

The mountain in the background is Mt Bell, named after Archibald Bell Jr, employed as a manager of the estate at one time. At its peak the estate consisted of 13 000 acres. It is ironic that an estate which heavily utilised convict labour to develop the property and establish what became a semi-independent village with a butcher's shop and inn, should now be a prison. By 1870 the village was deserted and St Helier's subsequently became known for its quality horses.

Tours
Upper Hunter Tours organise visits to local wineries, horse studs, cattle studs, antique shops and the Barrington Tops, tel: (02) 6545 3337 or (02) 6547 2731.

	Tourist Information
	Muswellbrook Tourist Information Centre 87 Hill St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6541 4050
	Motels
	Baybrook Inn & Apartments New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4888 Facsimile: (02) 6541 1029 Rating: ***1/2
	Centabrook Motor Inn 111 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 3444 Facsimile: (02) 6541 1120 Rating: ***1/2
	Hermitage Motel Cnr New England Hwy & Bell St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1188 Facsimile: (02) 6543 1486 Web site: http://www.hermitagemotel.com.au Rating: ***1/2
	John Hunter Motel Maitland St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4477 Facsimile: (02) 6543 4962 Rating: ***1/2
	Muswellbrook Motor Inn New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1531 Facsimile: (02) 6543 3480 Rating: ***1/2
	Noah's in the Valley 91 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2833 Facsimile: (02) 6543 2170 Rating: ***1/2
	Red Cedar Motel 12 Maitland St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2852 Facsimile: (02) 6543 2852 Rating: ***
	The Wayfarer Motel New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1744 Facsimile: (02) 6543 4655 Rating: ***1/2
	Hotels
	Eatons Hotel 188 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2403
	Muswellbrook Hotel 46 Market St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1045
	Prince Of Wales Tavern 36 Sydney St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1024
	Railway Hotel Market St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1061
	Royal Hotel Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1070
	Shamrock Hotel 30 William St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1613
	Valley Hotel Sydney St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1093
	Apartments
	Baybrook Inn & Apartments New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4888 Facsimile: (02) 6543 1029 Rating: ****1/2
	Caravan Parks
	Pinaroo Caravan Park New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 3905 Facsimile: (02) 6541 3100 Rating: ***1/2
	Restaurants
	Flag Sovereign Motor Inn Restaurant Cnr New England Hwy & Bell St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1188
	Hillside Restaurant New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2945
	John Hunter Motel Restaurant Maitland St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4477
	Kin's Garden Chinese Restaurant 31 Sydney St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2322
	Lucky Inn Chinese Restaurant 40 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4268
	Muswellbrook Chinese Restaurant 51 Sydney St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2636
	Muswellbrook RSL 113 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1700
	Noah's Bar and Grill 91 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2833
	Palatinos In The Hunter 142 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6541 2211
	Phillippe Brasserie 155 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6542 5166
	Prince Of Wales Tavern 36 Sydney St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1024
	Railway Hotel Restaurant Market St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1061
	Shenanigans At The Shamrock Restaurant 30 William St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1613
	The Governor's Retreat New England Hwy Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4477
	Cafés
	Hub Coffee Lounge Hub Arcade Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6542 5401
	Musswellbrook Coffee Pot Campbells Corner Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 4336
	Silver Grill Cafe 58 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 1702
	Tea Shrine Shop 1, 39-43 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6541 0045
	Yvonnes Coffee Lounge 63 Bridge St Muswellbrook NSW 2333 Telephone: (02) 6543 2480