The timber cutter in Knox Park

Murwillumbah (including Chillingham, Tumbulgum and Uki)
Important rural centre on the Tweed River just south of the Queensland border.
Murwillumbah is the last major town (apart from the urban sprawl of Tweed Heads) before the Queensland border. It is a substantial centre which is focussed almost entirely on providing services for the surrounding farmlands. The area is particularly rich and consequently is a mixture of cattle and sugar cane.

Murwillumbah is a rather pleasant town of around 9000 people which spreads along the banks of the Tweed River by the foothills of the McPherson Ranges. It is located in a scenic area 848 km north-east of Sydney, 13 km south of the Queensland border and 132 km south of Brisbane. In recent times the Pacific Highway, which joins Sydney and Brisbane, has bypassed the town and consequently it has become rather more sedate.

Murwillumbah is surrounded by sugarcane which is the major industry of the Tweed Valley. In fact, if the visitor travels through the region at the right time of the year, he or she will see virtual walls of sugarcane on either side of the road. Dairying and bananas also contribute to the local economy.

Prior to European settlement the area was occupied by the Bundjalung Aborigines. The first white person in the area was John Oxley who named the Tweed River in 1823. Five years later Captain Henry Rous followed the river from its mouth to the head of navigation. Unaware that Oxley had preceded him, he named it the Clarence - a name later transferred to a river further south.

By the early 1840s timbercutters were already at work on the forests of the hinterland but the rainforests of the area were not so rich a source as the Richmond and Tweed Valleys and so settlement did not proceed so quickly. Vessels did not appear on the river until 1868.

Sugarcane was first grown in the valley in 1869 as free selectors began to take up land. However, two years later, a visitor noted that the river was covered on both sides by dense scrub with but a few dispersed dwellings. One of the selectors - Joshua Bray (the future police magistrate) - is said to have adopted the name 'Murwillumbah' from the local Aborigines. It is thought to describe either a good place for camping beside the river or a good place to catch possums.

The townsite was surveyed in 1872. The post office was transferred from Kynnumboon (just to the north) in 1877, the school was transferred from Tumbulgum in 1878, a courthouse was built and the first bank was established in 1880. The first sugar mill in the area also opened in 1880. A ferry service replaced the punt in 1888. However, settlement remained limited until the railway arrived in 1894 from Lismore via Mullumbimby. This event made Murwillumbah the terminus of the North Coast Line (which it remains) and the commercial centre of a district which benefited greatly from the increased market access.

At this point in time, Murwillumbah really began to develop. A lift-span bridge was built over the river in 1901 and the settlement was declared a municipality in 1902. A hospital was built in 1904 and the Murwillumbah branch of the Norco butter factory opened in 1906, signalling the emergence of dairying in the area. Banana plantations also began to appear in the early 20th century. A major conflagration savaged the town in 1907, although the rebuilding process led to a number of civic improvements. Since the 1960s Murwillumbah has become something of a tourist resort.

Political writer, screenwriter, essayist and playwright Bob Ellis was born at Murwillumbah in 1942.

The Banana Festival is held each year in late August and early September and the Agricultural Show in November. Markets are held on the second Sunday of each month at the Sunnyside Shopping Centre.

Things to see:  

The World Heritage Rainforest Centre
The World Heritage Rainforest Centre is located in Budd Park, on the eastern bank of the Tweed River, at the corner of the Pacific Highway and Alma St (the main road through Murwillumbah), tel: (02) 6672 1340. The name of the centre reflects the fact that the tourist information centre shares office space with the National Parks and Wildlife Service which is a pleasing and convenient association for the visitor. Enquiries can be made here concerning houseboat hire, guided tours, accommodation, cruises and the area's gemstone fossicking. Maps and souvenirs are available and there is a theatrette. Rainforest Week is an annual event held in the early spring.

Bridge
From the nearby bridge over the Tweed River, there are fine views of Mt Warning in the distance. The entire valley sits within the eroded basin of an extinct and enormous volcano. Mt Warning was its central vent and magma chamber.

Art Gallery
Once across the bridge, take the first right into Commercial Rd then the first right into Wharf St then the left into Tumbulgum Rd which follows the riverbank. The Tweed River Regional Art Gallery. at the corner of Tumbulgum Rd and Ferry Rd, is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6672 6242.

Main St
Return along Tumbulgum Rd, turn right, back into Wharf St, then stick to the left as Wharf St leads into Murwillumbah St or, as it is also known, Main St. To the right are Walter Vernon's Federation-style courthouse (1909), the police station (c.1905) and their outbuildings. Further along, on the other side of the Queensland Rd intersection, are the Catholic Church, the associated school and the timber presbytery.

Lookout
Return along Main St and turn left into Queensland Rd. The first road on the right is Bent St. It leads up to Lion's Lookout by the town reservoir. There are barbecue facilities and views over the town, river and surrounding canefields.

Museum
At the corner of Queensland Rd and Bent St is the local history museum, located in the former council chambers (1910). It is open Wednesday and Friday from 11.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6672 1865.

Lisnagar and Palmdale Stud
Head out of town along Queensland Road. After 2 km you will cross the bridge over the Rous River and come to a T-junction. A left will take you to Chillingham. Look to the right and you will see a very attractive two-storey timber homestead known as 'Lisnagar' (1906).

Turn into the Chillingham Road which follows the Rous River into the Numinbah Valley. 12 km from Murwillumbah is a signposted turnoff on the right into Upper Crystal Creek Rd where you will find Palmdale Stud (aka Crystal Creek Miniatures), a curious venture which features a series of real miniature animals (bulls, cows, mares etc). There is also a coffee shop, nursery and gift shop. It is open daily, tel: (02) 6679 1532 or (02) 6679 1632.

Chillingham
Another 4 km along Queensland Road is the small but charming village of Chillingham. The general store offers a range of specialist products from the local area and serves an excellent cup of tea. St Andrew's Church is rather attractive.

Natural Bridge and Springbrook National Park
From Chillingham follow the Nerang Road through the Numinbah Valley. 4 km north of the Queensland border tick gate is a narrow, winding side road signposted for the 'Natural Arch'. This geological phenomenon was essentially formed by lava from Mount Warning which has solidified into a cavern. However, erosion from the creek above has caused a huge hole to form in the roof of the cavern so that the water falls through the hole into a water pool below.

The access road leads to a carpark in a delightful shady rainforest grove full of birdlife (eastern yellow robins, whipbirds, catbirds, wompoo pigeons and brush turkeys) and the burbling of the stream as it passes through the valley below. There is a clearly signposted circuit walk which leads through the rainforest to a lookout overlooking the falls and the hole in the cavern roof. It crosses the creek, passes another elevated viewing area, then moves down to creek level, where it is possible to enter the cavern where forest light shafts down through the opening, illuminating the base of the falls. The path then crosses the creek again and climbs back up to the parking lot. An information board at the start of the walk provides information about the park and its wildlife.

The most distinctive timber in the area are the hoop pines which abound. There are vines in the trees and staghorns as well as huge trees rotting on the forest floor. At night-time bandicoots, sugar gliders and brush-tail possums become active and the evening is a good time to spotlight possums, frogs and spiders.

The principal nocturnal activity concerns the glow-worms which can be seen in their thousands, adorning the cavern roof. These insects are the larvae of a fungus fly and they glow to attract insects to their webs. Access is via a viewing platform. However, the glow-worms are frail and while visitors can use a torch to get to the viewing platform, they must not shine the torch on them. Candles and other flames, flash photographs, smoking and insect repellant are also forbidden and excessive noise should be avoided.

There are toilets, picnic facilities and electric, coin-operated barbecues in the picnic areas (but no bins so take your rubbish with you). However, it can be very crowded with visitors so it is advisable to bring a portable table and gas barbecue. Mini bus tours operate from the Gold Coast and Murwillumbah. Be warned that the Bridge receives a great deal of rain in the hot, humid summer.

Brush turkeys and goannas are often seen around the picnic areas, pademelons feed at the edge of the rianforest and eastern yellow robins and whipbirds can be seen in the lower levels of the forest, while catbirds, koels and wompoo fruit doves can be heard amid the canopy. Lorikeets are common in spring and summer while, as night approaches, noturnal animals such as bandicoots, brushtail possums and sugar gliders emerge.

The 'Bridge' is located in Springbrook National Park, in an area once occupied by indigenous tribes but settled, from the 1870s, by Europeans who first entered the area to collect timber. Indeed a large portion of a giant red cedar taken from a spot near the Natural Bridge in 1893 was displayed at the Paris World Fair. The remnant rainforest in the Park, which grew from the rich volcanic soils, gives some idea of the environment which once characterised the entire Numinbah Valley before colonisation. The Natural Bridge was first declared a Scenic and Recreation Reserve in 1922, by which time much of the valley had been cleared and dairy farms were being established.

No camping is permitted in the Park. More details can be obtained by ringing (07) 5533 5147 or (07) 5576 4045.

To get to the bridge, head west of Nerang for 4 km, ignoring the Mt Tamborine turnoff and heading instead towards Beechmont. After a further 4 km the the Murwillimbah turnoff. 4 km before you come to the tick gate at the state border, there is a narrow, winding side road signposted for the 'Natural Arch'. En route is the beautiful scenery of the Numinbah Valley. The access road is narrow and winding.

Sugar Mill
The Condong Sugar Mill (established in 1880) is located on the left-hand side of the Pacific Highway, 4 km north-east of Murwillumbah. From July to November visitors can view the sugarcane being processed. Inspections are for small groups and by prior arrangement (fully-covered shoes are essential), tel: (02) 6670 1700.

Tree Tops Environment Centre
Opposite the sugar mill is the signposted turnoff, on the right, into Clothiers Creek Road. A few kilometres along this road is the Tree Tops Environment Centre where you can watch hand-crafted furniture in the making. There is also an art gallery and restaurant. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. daily, tel: (02) 6672 3068.

Madura Tea Estates
Madura Tea Estates (Australia's first commercial tea estate) is about another 5 km along Clothiers Creek Road. Inspections are possible but only by prior arrangement, tel: (02) 6677 7215.

Cudgen Nature Reserve
At the end of Clothiers Creek Rd (15 km from the highway), just before it reaches a T-intersection with the Tweed Coast Road at Bagangar, you will pass, on your left, Cudgen Lake (ideal for canoeing) and foreshores and, to the right, Round Mountain: both are now part of Cudgen Nature Reserve (671 ha). Cudgen Mountain provides excellent views across the lake, the ocean and the hinterland.

An Aboriginal stone quarry has been found on the edge of the lake and the area remains of significance to local Kooris. There are excellent views of Mt Warning from its eastern shore on a clear day.

The Cudgen Nature Reserve contains a variety of vegetation types which are home to a number of threatened plant and animal species. The reserve also supports a large koala population and picnic facilities are provided.

Tumbulgum
North-east of Murwillumbah, the Pacific Highway follows the Tweed River. Each side of both the road and the river is given over to sugarcane. 11 km from Murwillumbah is a left turn into the tiny township of Tumbulgum where novelist Faith Bandler was born after her father was brought here as kanaka labour by slave traders in 1883.

Tumbulgum was originally known to Europeans as the Tweed Junction for it is here that the Tweed and Rous Rivers meet ('Tumbulgum' means 'place where the waters meet'). An inn was built here in 1870 and, in 1872, a school and post office opened. The village was quite prosperous in the 1890s. A survivor from the 'boom' days is the Tumbulgum Hotel which marks the site of an old ferry crossing. Several other buildings in Riverside Drive are of interest.

Stott's Island Nature Reserve
13 km from Murwillumbah, to the left, is Stott's Island which provides an example of the lush lowland rainforest that covered the entire Tweed Valley prior to European settlement. There is a boat ramp. Opposite the reserve is Hogan's Park picnic area.

Tropical Fruit World
Just beyond Stott's Island, the highway straightens out. There is a signposted right turn to Tropical Fruit World at Duranbah - an agri-tourist destination based around a tropical fruit plantation. A visit begins with a tractor train-ride (with guided commentary) through the plantation which grows over 500 varieties of fruit including such exotics as acerola, babaco, sour sop along with the more common bananas, pineapples, guava and paw paw. It ends at Treasure Island where there are childrens' play facilities and a miniature train ride. Next is a boat cruise to the fauna park where the animals can be hand-fed. There is also a giant koi pond and the Gardens of the World. The latter is a series of gardens where the botany is based around specific geographical-historical themes. The Magic Garden Show is a discussion of the fruits which can be grown at home followed by tastings. There are also fruits and fruit products for sale, souvenirs and a restaurant. It is open daily from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6677 7222.

Pioneer Plantation
19 km south along the Pacific Highway is Mooball. If you turn off here and head north-east along Pottsville Rd it is 4 km to Pioneer Plantation, an award-winning agri-tourism complex based around a banana plantation. Highlights are the 6WD trip to the top of Banana Mountain, the Friendship Farm and the Wildlife Sanctuary - a free-range enclosure featuring kangaroos, wallabies, emus, koalas, wombats, pademelons and a lake with waterbirds. Other attractions are the Banana Garden, the Gardens of Australia, a family restaurant, walking tracks, and a giftshop. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, tel: (02) 6677 1215.

Mount Warning National Park
Mount Warning (1157 metres) is famous throughout Australia as the first point on the east coast to be touched by the sun's morning rays. It is located in a 2379-ha rainforest park which was given a World Heritage listing in 1986. The mountain, with its Dreamtime connections, is significant to the indigenous people who know it as 'Wollumbin'. Its European name was bestowed by Captain Cook to warn mariners of offshore reefs which he encountered in May 1770.

20 million years ago Mt Warning was the magma chamber and central vent of a volcano which covered 4000 square kilometres from Coraki in the south to Beenleigh in the north, west to Kyogle and its remnants form reefs in the ocean to the east. At that time, Mt Warning was twice its present height. The harder rhyolite from the magma chamber has formed a core which has remained while the basalt deposits of the surrounding area have eroded away leaving the present basin which forms the largest erosion caldera in the world.

To get there, head south-west along the Kyogle Rd for 10 km then take the signposted right turn onto the Mount Warning Road and travel 6 km to the Breakfast Creek Picnic Area at the park entrance by the base of the mountain. The Mt Warning Summit Track commences from the associated parking area.

This walk is very highly recommended although it is strenuous, steep and rocky in parts. It is an 8.8-km hike (return) through subtropical and temperate rainforest, wet sclerophyll forest and heath shrubland which takes about four hours return so it is best to start by 2.00 p.m. in winter. There are rest stops along the way and a chain to assist you up the last steep section.

The 360-degree views from the peak are stunning. The land which can be seen from the summit consists largely of the lava which once spilled from its mouth, carved into its present shape by erosion and the course of many rivulets down its slopes.

The Lyrebird Track (200 m) crosses Breakfast Creek and passes through palm forest to a platform amidst the subtropical forest.

The park's fauna includes vulnerable and protected species. There are frogs, marsupial mice, quolls, water rats, bush rats, the platypus, gliders, koalas, possums, bats, water dragons, pythons, tree snakes, skinks and lace monitors. Birdlife includes goshawks, eagles, currawongs, butcher birds, whipbirds, crows, doves, pigeons, the spangled drongo, kookaburras, kingfishers, lyrebirds, monarchs, brush turkeys, honeyeaters, crimson rosellas, king parrots, satin bowerbirds, marbled frogmouths, catbirds and owls.

There are barbecue facilities at the picnic area. Camping and fires are not otherwise permitted, although a privately-run campground offers car and caravan-based camping. For further information ring (02) 6672 6360 on weekdays.

Uki and Clarrie Hall Dam
4 km beyond the turnoff to Mt Warning is the attractive village of Uki which began as a service centre to a cedar-getting area. It prospered with the emergence of dairying in the 1890s. The school (1895) and Holy Trinity Anglican Church (1921) remain in the main street. The village shrank when dairying declined after the Second World War. In the 1980s urbanites began to open hobby farms in the area.

4 km beyond Uki is a turnoff on the left into Doon Doon Rd which leads to Clarrie Hall Dam where there are barbecue facilities.

	Tourist Information
	Murwillumbah Visitors Centre Cnr Pacific Hwy & Alma St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1340, 1800 674 414 Facsimile: (02) 6672 5948
	Motels
	Mt Warning Lodge Motel & Country Resort Mt Warning Rd Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5161 Rating: **
	Murwillumbah Motor Inn Cnr Wolllumbin & Byangum Sts Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 2022 Facsimile: (02) 6672 2143 Rating: ***1/2
	Poinciana Motel Cnr Pacific Hwy & Rose Lane Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 3666 Facsimile: (02) 6672 6101 Rating: ***1/2
	Town Motel & Eatery 3 Wharf St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 8600 Facsimile: (02) 6672 8601 Rating: ***
	Tweed River Motel 55 Pacific Hwy Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 3933 Facsimile: (02) 6672 5798 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Australian Tavern Commercial Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 4422
	Court House Hotel 60 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1044
	Imperial Hotel 115 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1036
	Mount Warning Hotel Main St Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5111
	Murwillumbah Hotel 13 Wharf St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1139
	Riverview Hotel 267 Pacific Hwy Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1006
	Tweed Tavern Pacific Hwy Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1023
	Resorts
	ecOasis P.O. Box 111 Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5959, 1800 777 709 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5759 Email: romance@ecoasis.com.au Web site: http://www.ecoasis.com.au
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	A-Top Spot Lot 11, Toon Cl Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5395
	Braeside Homestead Braeside Dve Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5289
	Castle On The Hill Bed & Breakfast 90 Bonny Doon Rd Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5442
	Hillcrest Bed & Breakfast 167 Upper Crystal Creek Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 1023 Rating: ****1/2
	Mount Warning Forest Hideaway 460 Byrrill Creek Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 7277 Facsimile: (02) 6679 7278 Rating: ****
	Pulman's Retreat Coolman St Tyalgum Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 3415
	Cottages & Cabins
	ecOasis P.O. Box 111 Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5959, 1800 777 709 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5759 Email: romance@ecoasis.com.au Web site: http://www.ecoasis.com.au
	Gibbyean Host Farm Lot 12 Kyogle Rd Byangum Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1087 Rating: ****1/2
	Hanging Rock Chalet 677 Tomewin Rd via Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (07) 5533 0327 Facsimile: (07) 5533 0327 Email: eco@hangingrockschalets.com.au
	Hillcrest Honeymoon Cottages 167 Upper Crystal Creek Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 1023 Rating: ****1/2
	Farm & Eco Holidays
	Hillcrest Mountain View Retreat 167 Upper Crystal Creek Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 1023 Rating: ****1/2
	Cottages & Cabins
	Wollumbin Palms Retreat 112 Mount Warning Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5063 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5278 Rating: *****
	Farm & Eco Holidays
	ecOasis P.O. Box 111 Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5959, 1800 777 709 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5759 Email: romance@ecoasis.com.au Web site: http://www.ecoasis.com.au
	Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat Brookers Rd Upper Crystal Creek Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 1591 Rating: ***
	Durobby Retreat P.O. Box 922 Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5570 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5570 Email: relax@durobbyretreat.com.au Rating: *****
	Caravan Parks
	Greenhills Caravan Park 488 Pacific Hwy Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 2035 Rating: **
	Mount Burrell Caravan Park Kyogle Rd Mt Burrell Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 7170
	Mount Warning Caravan Park Mt Warning Rd Uki Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5120 Facsimile: (02) 6679 5120 Rating: ***
	Restaurants
	Hung Too Chinese Restaurant 6 Commercial Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 2349
	Imperial Hotel Restaurant 115 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1036
	Margherita's Cantina 91 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 6767
	Mt Warning Lodge Motel & Country Resort Mt Warning Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 5161
	Murwillumbah Hotel 13 Wharf St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1139
	Riverside Pizza Cafe 4 Commercial Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1935
	Satnams Restaurant 233 Byangum Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 4041
	Taj Palace Indian Restaurant 27 Wollumbin St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 6002
	Cafés
	Cafe Chi Palm Court Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 6408
	Dali's Coffee Lounge & Gallery 50 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 4733
	Eleven 11 23 Coolman St Tyalgum Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6679 3221
	Metro Milk Bar 17 Wharf St Tyalgum Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 4089
	New Leaf Cafe Shop 10/49 Main St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 4073
	Pavlos Cafe & Takeaway 14 King St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 8181
	Riverside Pizza Cafe 4 Commercial Rd Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 1935
	Wharf St Cafe 2 Wharf St Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 8590
	Houseboats
	Tweed River Houseboats 161 Pacific Hwy Murwillumbah NSW 2484 Telephone: (02) 6672 3525 Facsimile: (02) 6672 8299