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The main road entering the
Jenolan Caves
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Jenolan Caves
(including Kanangra Walls)
Most famous limestone caves in New South Wales.
The Jenolan Caves, because they are located 164
kilometres from Sydney, are Australia's most accessible and popular
limestone caves. They are deep in a valley on the far side of the Great
Dividing Range and are 793 metres above sea level. Between Hartley and
the Jenolan Caves, the road crosses the Great Dividing Range at an
altitude of 1250 metres.
The drive to the Caves includes one of the most dramatic and
unusual stretches of road in New South Wales. After winding down a hill
the road reaches a river with an incredibly blue pond and there, in
front of the traveller, is the Grand Arch. Visitors have to drive into,
and wind through, the main cave before emerging just below Caves House.
The Grand Arch is the largest open cave in Australia. It is 24 metres
high, 55 metres wide and 127 metres long. It is an extraordinary
introduction to the whole experience of the Jenolan Caves.
The first European to discover the caves was the
bushranger and escaped convict James McKeown. In a report in the Argus
newspaper the story of his capture and the discovery of the Caves was
recounted in a suitably dramatic fashion.
'James McKeown was an escaped convict...whose
presence on the main western road was for years excessively irritating
to the settlers, on whose stores he laid an oppressive toll...Whalan
set out to track McKeown and followed him up hill and down dale for
miles. After they had covered about 20 miles the bushranger suddenly
disappeared...The tracks led up to a wild cavern and into it...and
burst again into open day, and the route lay along a rugged gorge for
some three miles. Here the bushranger again disappeared...All about
were evidences of careful cultivation, the bushranger having laid out
quite a nice little farm. Satisfied that he had run down his bird,
Whalan retraced his steps...When he returned home he told his brother
Charles of the strange country he had wandered into. 'I have been
through the Devil's Coachhouse,' he said. Next day a party was made up,
and with the aid of troopers McKeown was captured. His hiding place was
a huge hole in the mountain-side, known now as McKeown's Hole...McKeown
lived to return from a long term of exile on Norfolk Island and to
re-visit the scene of his former exploits.'
There is some confusion as to when these events
occurred. Some time between 1838 and 1841 is the best guess. Certainly
both James and Charles Whalan returned to the caves many times and in
1846 the Arch Cave was discovered. The Elder Cave was discovered in
1848 and the Lucas Cave in 1860. The government declared the whole area
a reserve in 1866 and appointed Jeremiah Wilson the first 'keeper'
the following year.
It is worth contemplating the difficulties of the early
visitors. Until 1880 visitors had to take the train to Tarana railway
station. They then progressed by coach and buggy but had to walk down
into the valley where they spent the night in the Grand Arch before
exploring the caves. This all changed in 1880 when Wilson established
an accommodation house at the caves and the road from Oberon was
completed. In 1884 a bridle track was constructed from Katoomba. By the
late 1880s the road which is still the main route to the caves had been
completed and visitors from Sydney could reach the caves in less than
24 hours.
Things to see:
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Jenolan Caves House
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Jenolan Caves
House (now Jenolan Caves Resort)
It would be easy to spend a few days or even a week
at the Caves House which has a delightful old world charm. No
discussion of the Caves is complete without reference to the Caves
House which was built in 1898 by the State Government. The original
building is 'modified Queen Anne style'. It was altered in 1909, 1914,
and 1923.
Exploring the Caves
There are 22 major caves in the Jenolan system. Of
these there are nine - the Imperial, Chifley, Jubilee, Lucas, Pool of
Cerberus, River, Orient, Temple of Baal and Ribbon - which are 'dark
caves' opened for guided inspection. The caves feature the usual range
of features with quaint names like 'Gem of the West', 'Gabriel's Wing',
'Lot's Wife' and the 'Bishop and Three Sisters'.
But beyond the caves (and everyone who visits the site should
inspect at least one cave) are excellent bushwalks.
Bushwalking in the Area
It is worth remembering that Jenolan is a 2430 hectare
flora and fauna sanctuary and that walkers in the area are likely to
see lyrebirds, wallabies, possums, kangaroos and, if they are lucky,
wombats.
Kanangra Walls
If you drive beyond the Jenolan Caves for another 33
kilometres you reach the Kanangra Walls, an extraordinarily beautiful
area unspoilt by tourism which is located 197 kilometres from Sydney.
The views from the Kanangra Walls Lookout towards the Grand Gorge and
across to such magically named places as Mount High and Mighty, Mount
Stormbreaker and Mount Cloudmaker, are arguably the best in the whole
Blue Mountains. Difficulty of access has denied them the popularity of
the lookouts around Katoomba and Leura. There is an interesting walk
around the Tops. Only experienced bushwalkers should attempt the longer
walks into the valleys.
Kanangra Boyd National Park
5 km west of Jenolan Caves a 26-km road heads south
along Boyd Plateau into the rugged and scenic terrain of Kanangra Boyd
National Park where you can indulge in bushwalking, fishing,
photography, nature study and car touring.
The access road traverses Boyd Plateau and passes the Boyd
River Camping Area before arriving at the Kanangra Walls carpark from
whence the the short, easy, wheelchair-friendly Lookout Walk departs.
It takes in two excellent lookouts - the first looks over the Kanangra
Creek Gorge with Mt Cloudmaker to the north-east and the main ridge of
the Blue Mountains beyond; the second takes in Kanangra Falls and the
rugged ravines at the head of the gorge. From this latter lookout the
Waterfall Walk takes you down into a gully to Kalang Falls.
The longest trail is the Plateau Walk which branches off the
Lookout Walk before you reach the first lookout. It takes in the
heath-covered plateau of Kanangra Tops from whence there are excellent
views of Kanangra Walls, Mt Colong to the south and Pindari Tops to the west.
There are other longer overnight walks in the park,
including one along the Unirover Track to Colong Caves, some
undeveloped limestone caverns at the southern end of the park. To visit
them you will need a permit in advance from the Oberon NPWS office.
A highlight of the park is the Kowmung River, one of
the last wild untouched rivers in the state. It is particularly good
for trout fishing. Bush camping is permitted anywhere in the park, as
long as you are 500 m from any road.
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Motels
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Big Trout Motor Inn
Oberon St
Oberon
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2787
Telephone: (02) 6336 2100
Facsimile: (02) 6336 2114
Rating: ****
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Jenolan Caves Resort
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6359 3042
Facsimile: (02) 6359 3037
Rating: ****
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Lake View Ridge Bed & Breakfast
163 Harvey's Lane
Oberon
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2787
Telephone: (02) 6336 5277
Facsimile: (02) 6336 0408
Rating: *****
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Jenolan Caves Resort
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6359 3042
Facsimile: (02) 6359 3037
Rating: ****1/2
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Cottages & Cabins
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Jenolan Caves Cottages
Jenolan Caves Rd
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6359 3311
Facsimile: (02) 6359 3307
Rating: ***
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Melaleuca Mountain Chalets
935 Duckmaloi Rd
P.O. Box 282, Oberon
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2787
Telephone: (02) 6336 1158
Facsimile: (02) 6336 2282
Email: enquiries@melaleuca-chalets.com.au
Rating: ****1/2
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Jenolan Cabins
42 Edith Rd
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6335 6239
Facsimile: (02) 6335 6239
Email: jencabin@lisp.com.au
Rating: ***1/2
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Lodges & Chalets
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Melaleuca Mountain Chalets
935 Duckmaloi Rd
P.O. Box 282, Oberon
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2787
Telephone: (02) 6336 1158
Facsimile: (02) 6336 2282
Email: enquiries@melaleuca-chalets.com.au
Rating: ****1/2
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Restaurants
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Caves House
Adjacent to the caves
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6359 3322
Facsimile: (02) 6359 3388
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Caves House
Adjacent to the caves
Jenolan Caves
NSW
2790
Telephone: (02) 6359 3322
Facsimile: (02) 6359 3388
Rating: ****
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