Sunset over the Clarence River at Iluka

Iluka
Small fishing and holiday village on the northern side of the mouth of Clarence River
Located 694 km north of Sydney and 21 km east of the Pacific Highway, Iluka is a sleepy little fishing village which has become a popular 'get away from it all' holiday destination for people wanting to avoid the more commercialised destinations further to the north. It is a town whose economy is driven by oysters, prawning, fishing and holiday makers.

The name 'Iluka' is reputedly a local Aboriginal word meaning 'near the sea'. It is thought that the Yaygir or Banjalang Aborigines occupied the area at the time of European colonisation. These people lived within a fairly small, well-defined area as the plenitude of resources negated the need for lengthy migrations. It also appears to have rendered them healthier and taller than inland groups while their semi-sedentary lifestyle fostered a material culture of greater perfection (i.e., superior domiciles, utensils, baskets and fishing nets etc). European observers spoke highly of their crafts, skills, mores, material culture and intelligence. While they coexisted peacefully with the timbergetters and pastoralists, the advent of agriculture with the free selectors of the 1860s destroyed the hunting grounds and decimated the culture of the original inhabitants.

Matthew Flinders investigated the river mouth in 1799. He landed on the northern headland, near present-day Iluka, and on the southern headland (on what is now Yamba) and wrote about the lifestyle of the Aborigines he came in contact with. However, he found the waters shallow and dismissed the whole area as 'deserving of no more than a superficial examination'. In fact, Flinders mistook the inlet for a coastal bay and did not imagine there was a major river nearby.

It is thought that convict escapees from Moreton Bay passed through the area in the late 1820s and early 1830s. One of their number, Richard Craig, reported a big river and a plenitude of valuable timber when he arrived at Port Macquarie in 1832. He was later employed by a Thomas Small of Sydney who, inspired by Craig's reports, sent off his brother and two dozen sawyers on board the schooner, the Susan, to the 'Big River' as it was initially known to whites. It was the first European vessel to enter the river. Other cedar-cutters followed in their wake. Small took up a large parcel of land on Woodford Island, opening the way for other landholders. Governor Gipps named the river the Clarence in 1839.

By 1862 the present site of Iluka was 'a large sandy flat covered with ferns, bloodwood, brush box, gum trees and brush with patches of brushwood on the land behind, low stunted scrub with wild vines towards Iluka Bluff and salt water marshes flooded at high tide to the south on the inner shore of the North Spit. The water on the shore of the town site was deep but further south, out from the North Spit it was shallow with sandbanks, covered at high tide, surrounding Rabbit and Pelican islands.'

Settlement began with the start of harbour work at the river mouth in 1862. A government wharf had been built here by 1875 and a tramway was constructed out to Iluka Bluff to obtain stone for the breakwater.

A post office opened in 1876 and, by 1878, there were about 100 or 150 people living there - all except two hoteliers and a storekeeper were employed on the harbour works. This number allegedly increased to over 400 but the employment was only temporary so few permanent dwellings were erected and, by 1890, numbers were well down. However, some stayed on and took up fishing as a livelihood. Supplies were shipped to Sydney from 1887 and a cannery opened in 1899. From this point, the town established itself as an important fishing port. Today it remains an interesting combination of fishing port and holiday destination.

Things to see:  

Iluka Nature Reserve
At the northern end of Crown Street (near Sedgers Reef Hotel), running off Long Street, is a 2.5-km walking track through the Iluka Nature Reserve which connects with Bluff Road and takes the walker out to Iluka Bluff where there is an informative display. The area of 136 hectares, which was established in 1976, boasts 160 shrub and tree species and a similar number of bird varieties. The area is the largest area of sub-tropical littoral rainforest in New South Wales and has been included on the World Heritage Listings. The walk takes around half an hour.

Bundjalung National Park
National Parks and Wildlife publish a single sheet brochure on Bundjalung National Park which provides a detailed map of the roads, fire trails and access points to this particularly beautiful and extensive coastal park which was named after the Bundjalung Aborigines who once occupied this land, leaving a number of middens to attest to that fact.

Bundjalung covers 17,000 hectares, 38 km of beaches and ranges from rainforest through heathland, coastal cypress stands, lagoons and wetlands to coastal plains. The park is home to 205 bird, 30 mammal, 38 reptile and 13 amphibian species.

The Woody Head Camping Area, adjacent World Heritage rainforest, lies just off the road which connects Iluka to the Pacific Highway, as do a number of picnic areas. Ring (02) 6646 6134 for bookings and further information.

Iluka-Yamba Ferry
There is a regular ferry service across to Yamba which also includes cruises up the Clarence River. There are also river cruises to Harwood Island on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and another company has also opened offering river cruises. Contact Clarence River Ferries on (02) 6646 6423 or 018 664 556 for details of departure times. The ferry wharf, boat shed and marina are at the end of Charles St.

Woombah Coffee Plantation
Reputedly the southernmost coffee plantation in the world, Woombah is located 4 km from the Pacific Highway on the way to Iluka. There is a coffee house (which also sells tea) on the site, a small handicrafts shop and, at certain times of the year, there are tours of the plantation available. Contact (02) 6646 4380 for details of times.

Tourist Information and Fishing
Maclean's tourist information centre can be contacted on (02) 6645 4121. They can furnish several items of use to anglers. One is the 'Clarence River Fishing Guide'. It includes a tide chart and up-to-date information concerning which species are about in which seasons, a list of fishing spots within the estuary and along the coastline and which fish you might find at which specific locations. There is also information relating to beach access, boat ramps, recommended bait types, where to obtain fresh bait, size limits, bag limits, current fishing rules and a list of protected species. For further information ring (02) 6688 4356 or email North Coast Maps on grayncm@linknet.com.au

Anglers in non-tidal waterways must purchase a licence at a cost of $10 for one month, $25 for one year or $70 for three years. If you have a credit card you can pay for a licence by ringing the NSW Fisheries on 1300 369 365. They publish a pamphlet entitled 'Marine Recreational Fishing in New South Wales'. It looks at official bag and size limits, protected species, permitted gear, spearfishing regulations, penalties and the location of its offices. The fisheries website is www.fisheries.nsw.gov.au

Wahoo Fishing Charters are located at the Yamba Boat harbour Marina. They offer reef fishing trips which depart at 6.00 a.m. and return at 3.00 p.m. daily, and game-fishing trips on weekends only. Bait, tackle, lunch, tea and coffee are supplied (you can bring your own fishing gear if you wish), tel: (02) 6643 9041 or (0408) 323 770.

Houseboats are available from Yamba (tel: 02 6645 8067) and Brushgrove, tel: (02) 6647 6232. Fishing charter operators are located at Wooli (tel: 02 6649 7100) and Yamba, tel: (02) 6643 9041. Hired boats are not permitted closer than 1 km to the river entrance.

Tackle, bait and boating accessories are available from Iluka Bait and Tackle, at 68 Spencer St (tel: 02 6646 6622) and BP Iluka Auto and Marine Centre, at 60-62 Spencer St, tel: (02) 6645 7121.

Motor boats are available for hire from the Iluka Boatshed and Marina (tel: 02 6646 6106) at the end of Charles St. Also at the end of Charles St is the Iluka Riverside Tourist Park which has a boat ramp and jetty. The fishing is recommended offshore. Another boat ramp and jetty are located at Bimbimbi Riverside Caravan Park, 286 Iluka Road, Woombah, tel: (02) 6646 4272. Woombah is a pretty little village located just east of the Pacific Highway, along the road which leads to Iluka.

Another good fishing spot is Moriarties Wall at the southern tip of Iluka (access off Beach Rd) and you can drop a sinkerless line into Iluka Bay, by the Fishing Co-op (off Queen St). The Co-op sells fresh fish and local seafood. The catch is usually unloaded before 9.00 a.m. each morning with sales occurring from then until noon. Other noted spots in the estuary are around the Middle Wall (access by boat only) and the area along the eastern shore of Freeburn Island.

Iluka Beach, which extends northwards from the northern breakwall of the river mouth, is a good spot for bream, jewfish, tailor and flathead. Behind the beach is Iluka Nature Reserve and further north is Bundjalung National Park.

To the north of the beach are other fine coastal fishing spots such as Iluka Bluff, Bluff Beach, the headland known as Frazers Reef, Middle Bluff, Woody Head and Shark Bay. Most of these sites offer opportunities to variously catch tailor, jewfish, bream, mackerel, tailor and blackfish. Shark Bay, 5 km north via Iluka Road, proffers bream, tailor, whiting, chopper and jewfish. Access to these sites is along side roads which head east off the Iluka Road. The Iluka Road is the main road which connects the town to the Pacific Highway. Locations such as the Woody Head Camping Area are situated adjacent World Heritage rainforest. Ring the National Parks and Wildlife Service office on (02) 6646 6134 for bookings and further information.

Anglers may also wish to investigate the Esk River which branches off the Clarence River near Iluka. Light boats can gain access from the Bill Weily Bridge along the Iluka Road. North of this bridge is Reedy Creek (at the end of Shores Drive) which is another good spot.

A few kilometres east of the Pacific Highway, along Iluka Road, is Wombah Coffee Plantation. A side road branches off here to Goodwood Island which is situated between the main body of the Clarence River and the North Arm, just to the north-west of Iluka. The access road leads over a bridge then follows the water's edge on the southern side of the island. Along the southern shoreline are Browns Rocks which are noted for catches of bream, blackfish and flathead. Anglers can stay at the Browns Rocks Caravan Park, tel: (02) 6646 4324. The Goodwood Island wharf and Collis' Wall (adjacent the eastern end of the island) are also good spots for dangling a line.

The local coast guard can be contacted on (02) 6646 6311 or VMR 257. For emergencies contact 27.880 MHZ or VHF Ch 16.

	Tourist Information
	Iluka Tourist Information Centre Gennings Motor & Marine Cnr Spencer & Owen Sts Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6165
	Motels
	Iluka Motel 47 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6288 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Sedgers Reef Hotel 5 Queen St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6122
	Apartments
	Bream Court Holiday Apartments 38 Marandowie Dve Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6210, 1800 639 126 Rating: ***
	Camawood Holiday Apartments 2 Spenser St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Garden Units Holiday Apartments 66 Spenser St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Iluka Dolphins Holiday Units Charles Lane Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6323
	Iluka Villas Holiday Apartments 4 Spenser St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Iluka Waterfront Holiday Apartments 14 Queen Lane Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6330
	Koala Holiday Apartments 123 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6043
	Mariner Waterfront Townhouses Holiday Apartments 3 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Mulgal Holiday Apartments 99 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Orana Holiday Apartments 34 Queen St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Snapper Lodge Holiday Apartments 108 Spenser St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Tara Holiday Apartments 40 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	Cottages & Cabins
	East Villa Cottage 32 Queen Lane Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6177
	The Anchorage Holiday Park Marandowie Dve Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6210, 1800 639 127 Facsimile: (02) 6646 6844 Rating: ***1/2
	Caravan Parks
	Iluka Clarence Head Caravan Park 113 Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6163 Rating: **
	Iluka Riverside Caravan Park Charles St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6060 Rating: **
	The Anchorage Holiday Park Marandowie Dve Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6210, 1800 639 127 Facsimile: (02) 6646 6844 Rating: ****
	Woody Head Caravan Park Iluka Rd Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6134 Rating: *
	Woombah Woods Caravan Park Cnr Pacific Hwy & Iluka Rd Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 4544 Facsimile: (02) 6646 4544 Rating: ***
	Camping & Other
	The Anchorage Holiday Park Marandowie Dve Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6210, 1800 639 127 Facsimile: (02) 6646 6844 Rating: ***1/2
	Restaurants
	Fairways Restaurant Iluka Golf Club Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 5043
	Tom's Chinese Restaurant Spenser St Iluka NSW 2466 Telephone: (02) 6646 6427