Hillgrove (and Metz)
Historic goldmining town
Hillgrove is an old gold town on the brink of Hillgrove Gorge in the Northern Tablelands. It is 32 km east of Armidale and 557 km north-north-east of Sydney. Head east of Armidale along Waterfall Way (the road to Dorrigo) for 26 km then turn right heading south for a further 6 km. The town's current population is 95.

Although some alluvial gold was located at Bakers Creek in 1857 and antimony was discovered at Hillgrove in 1866, large-scale mining did not commence until the about 1880. A town rapidly developed reaching a population peak of some 3000 persons in 1898, at which time there were six hotels, four churches, two schools, a courthouse, police station, hospital, school of arts, cordial factory, racecourse, cricketing oval, masonic lodge, debating society, temperance league, debating society, technical college and a local newspaper. Despite extravagant claims to the contrary Hillgrove was never larger than Armidale which had nearly 3500 people at the same time.

Because the town developed on the basis of large-scale subterranean mining organised by substantial companies it avoided the individualistic laissez-faire anarchy of alluvial fields and unfolded in an orderly manner. In 1895 it became the first town to be supplied with power by means of hydro-electricity which operated from Gara Gorge to the west.

Hillgrove was the leading gold-producing site in NSW from the late 1880s to the late 1890s. However, the town began to slowly contract from the late 1890s. Although the population was still 2274 in 1901 it had declined to 1777 in 1911. When gold prices fell and yields declined it made the fields untenable and the mines closed in 1921. In all, the Eleanora and Bakers Creek Mines produced 15 600 kg of gold. By 1933 there were just 241 residents left.

There was a brief revival of goldmining between 1937 and 1940. However, it was the Damned If I Know Mine, a small operation which extracted tungsten ore between the late 1930s and the late 1950s which turned a large profit, particularly during World War II when tungsten's steel-strengthening capacity was in great demand.

Antimony mining came into its own in 1969 and is still mined today along with gold, although the recent sale of federal reserves by the national government has rendered goldmining far more problematic.

Hillgrove is not a ghost town although, when goldmining ceased in 1921, most of the buildings were dismantled and removed to Armidale and other centres so few old structures are intact. Indeed all that was left of the original buildings was the post office and school (the latter now occupied by a museum). Hence there are lots of empty paddocks with some scattered relics.

Things to see:  

Museum and Heritage Walk
The Rural Life and Industry Museum is situated in the old Hillgrove School (1897). It contains relics from, and a photographic collection of, the mining town and is open Mondays, Fridays, weekends, school and public holidays from 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6770 3536. There are barbecue facilities.

The museum also has a booklet which identifies the layout of the town c.1905 indicating just what buildings stood on which blocks. When goldmining ceased in 1921, most of the buildings were dismantled and removed from the site so that few old structures are intact. Hence there are lots of empty paddocks with some scattered relics.

The booklet can also be obtained from the Armidale Visitors' Centre at the corner of Dumaresq and Marsh Sts, tel: (02) 6772 8527 or (free-call) 1800 62 7736. There is another pamphlet relating to Metz.

Long Point
From Hillgrove a dirt road heads east and then south for some 18 km through some very pleasant farming country to little-visited Long Point in the wilderness of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. There are two posted walking tracks through dry rainforest and around the rim of the gorge offering excellent views over the Chandler and Macleay River systems. The overnight Chandler River Walk to Wollomombi starts here. Track notes are available from the Armidale National Parks and Wildlife Service office at 87 Faulkner St, tel: (02) 6773 7211.

Metz and Bakers Creek Falls
An ideal outing is to head out of Hillgrove back along the main bitumen road to Waterfall Way. However, after 3 km turn left into Old Hilly Road (gravel) which leads, after just 3 km, to Bakers Creek Falls where there is a lookout.

Just beyond the creek you can either turn right back to Waterfall Way (1 km) or left to Metz (4 km), which is situated on the other side of the gorge from Hillgrove. In fact, Metz was initially known as West Hillgrove. A smaller version of the main town it started in 1889 when goldmining spread to the western side of Baker's Creek Gorge. The name 'Metz' was adopted in 1892.

Its population peaked in 1898 at about 750, at which time there was a post office, two schools, three churches, shops, two hotels, a masonic lodge, a brass band and sporting organisations.

The population began to decline around 1904 when activities at nearby mines wound down. The post office and the last school and hotel closed in the late 1920s.

Two buildings remain - a cottage with a mud-brick chimney and a brick outbuilding relating to the now defunct hotel. The Hillgrove Museum has a pamphlet relating to the town's heritage and sites. The entire site is now private property. Visitors are welcome but are requested not to climb over fences or open gates without permission.

There are fine views from the Metz Lookout. It is possible to see some relics of the old Bakers Creek Mine at the bottom of the gorge, 490 m below Hillgrove. The shaft was sunk a further 610 m below the surface, almost to sea-level. A rope-hauled tramway operated by a steam-powered winding engine pulled the trams up and down the precipitous incline.

Another way of accessing Metz, Bakers Creek Mine and Hillgrove is from a gravel road which, like the main Hillgrove Rd, departs southwards from Waterfall Way, but 4 km west of the main Hillgrove turnoff. After 1 km there is a choice: right to Metz (4 km) or left to Bakers Creek Falls and Hillgrove (3 km).

Accommodation and Eating
There are no facilities in the town.