The Bucketts behind Gloucester

Gloucester
Quiet rural township on the edge of the Bucketts.
Gloucester, known as the gateway to the Barrington Tops, is a charming country town nestled in a valley under a range of impressive monolith hills called The Bucketts. It is situated on the Gloucester River 96 metres above sea-level and is located 271 km north-east of Sydney on the Bucketts Way which heads northwards off the Pacific Highway 18 km from Raymond Terrace, passing through Stroud and, at Gloucester, veering east to rejoin the highway at Nabiac. To the east of town is the Mograni Range and just to the north of town, the Gloucester, Avon and Barrington Rivers meet. Gloucester has a population of around 2600. It is the principal town of a cattle-raising, dairying and mixed farming district. Local industry includes a large factory which produces milk products, a coal mine, an important cattle market and a nascent tourist industry based on the area's fine natural attractions.

Prior to European settlement, the area was inhabited by the Kattang Aborigines. The first European known to have passed through the area was the explorer Henry Dangar in 1826. Hot on his heels was Robert Dawson, the first manager of the Australian Agricultural Company (AAC) which had been formed in England in 1824 with the object of raising fine wool and agricultural products for importation to England. The AAC had been granted one million acres on the northern side of Port Stephens and, impressed by the 'romantic scenery' of the river valley, Dawson established an outstation which he named 'Gloucester' after the English town as the landscape reminded him of the terrain in Gloucestershire. The Gloucester and Avon valleys were soon full of AAC sheep and a dairy was established on the estate c.1831 for the supply of AAC employees.

In 1851 churchman John Dunmore Lang observed that 'Gloucester is one of the best sites for an inland town, I have ever seen in the colony. A range of picturesque mountains, called by the aborigines, the Buccans, of about 1200 feet in height, bounds the horizon to the westward. Along the base of these mountains, the River Gloucester wends its way to the northward, leaving a large extent of alluvial land on its right bank, which the Company has cleared and brought into cultivation; the site of the buildings that form the station, including a house of accommodation for travellers, being on a rising ground to the eastward of the alluvial flats. It is altogether a beautiful spot in the wilderness'.

Drought killed off many sheep in the early 1840s. The end of transportation in the 1840s and the goldrushes of the 1850s caused labour shortages for the company which imported Chinese hands. In addition, the sheep flocks suffered as Dawson had chosen inappropriate terrain, attempts to grow grain proved disappointing, the paddock fences were in a parlous state and half the cattle and horses were astray, lost or stolen. By the 1870s the Gloucester estate was overrun with brumbies and 1500 were shot.

Hookes Creek near Gloucester

In the late 1850s the AAC sold or removed all the sheep and reduced its landholdings in the area. Attention turned primarily to cattle with the Gloucester estate proving home to a large and excellent herd. Coal, iron ore and limestone deposits were discovered by the AAC but plans for their exploitation never came to fruition.

In 1856 Arthur Hodgson, the general superintendent of the AAC, observed that 'the town of Gloucester is laid out with great judgment. The road from New England passes through a part of it. There is a house of accommodation about one mile from the township'. Although Gloucester was the head station, the term 'town' is probably misleading as there were few buildings. In 1861 the only structures were a slab-and-bark hut occupied by the resident constable, a wooden hotel with a shingle roof, an Anglican church (built in 1860 at the expense of the AAC) and a blacksmith's shed. Elsewhere on the estate there were cattle yards, which held up to 4000 head, an overseer's house, and a brick residence for the usage of the general manager who moved to Gloucester from Stroud in 1860. A store and two houses were added to Gloucester in the 1860s with another two residences, a post office, an hotel and a police station being added in the 1870s.

In the 1850s and 1860s there were still many Aborigines in the area. They camped and held corroborees on the future townsite and helped the early settlers at harvest time. Once each year they gathered at Gloucester before proceeding to Stroud where they were issued with a blanket apiece.

Notorious bushranger, 'Captain Thunderbolt' (Fred Ward) hid out at Gloucester Tops in the mid-1860s. When the police discovered his hideout in 1866 he escaped, though his wife, his two children and another woman were taken to Gloucester and on to Maitland where the women were released. The two children were sent to a government institution.

Alluvial gold was discovered to the west of Gloucester, at present-day Copeland, in 1872, but it was kept secret until 1876 when a rush started. Subterranean mining commenced in 1877 and, at the height of the rush (1877-80), there were some 3000 people in the area working 51 reefs which yielded 566 kg of gold. Half of that amount was uncovered in 1879 alone.

In 1903 the AAC sold its property to the Gloucester Estate Syndicate which cleared the land, drew up the town subdivision and sold allotments. In 1905 two hotels were built, a school of arts was completed, the 'Gloucester Advocate' went into print and construction began of other businesses and residences. At that time cattle and timber were the focus of local industry although dairying was on the rise. In 1906 the Barrington Butter factory opened and the Gloucester Shire Council held its first meeting. A Presbyterian Church was built in 1907 and the courthouse was erected in 1908. A cordial factory operated from 1910-1918 and the railway arrived in 1913, enhancing the town's role as a service centre to the surrounding area and precipitating a period of development.

The Gloucester National Dancing Competition is held every July and the Agricultural Show in March or April.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
Gloucester Tourist Information Centre is located at the corner of Church and Denison Streets. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. (8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. in school holidays) and offers an accommodation booking service, maps, historical and local interest literature, local arts and crafts and postcards. Contact them for information about scenic drives, picnic areas, bushwalking and fishing. The waters of the Barrington, Manning and Barnard Rivers are noted for quality canoeing and the information centre can furnish details on local canoe hire and potential routes, tel: (02) 6558 1408.

The Homestead
The homestead is located opposite the saleyards, on the western side of The Bucketts Way at the southern end of town. It is a single-storey sandstock brick residence built c.1830 by the Australian Agricultural Company on what was then the main north coast road. It is currently a private residence.

School Museum
Just to the north, at the corner of the Bucketts Way and Oak St, is St Clement's Historic Park. Gloucester's first church was built here by the Australian Agricultural Company in 1860. Just behind the park is the Upper Bowman School Museum which is a typical 19th-century, one-teacher, rural schoolhouse with original furniture. It is open by appointment, tel: (02) 6558 1882.

Folk Museum
From here the Bucketts Way is known as Church St. At 12 Church St is the Gloucester Folk Museum which is located in the former shire council chambers (1909). The Wunderlich pressed-metal ceilings are of interest and, to the rear of the building, are the police lock-up and an explosives store from the former goldmining town of Copeland. It is open Thursdays and Saturdays from 10.00 a.m. to 12.00 noon and on Tuesdays in the school holidays, or by appointment, tel: (02) 6558 1882.

Bucketts Scenic Walk and Bucketts Circle
Head out of town along Park St which soon becomes the Barrington Tops Forest Rd. After 1 km turn left into Bucketts Road. 1 km along this road, to the right, is the signposted start of the Bucketts Scenic Walk (2 km but steep) which leads up the Bucketts Mountain Range where there are excellent views of the Gloucester and Avon Valleys.

Those wishing to extend the trip into a scenic drive can continue along Bucketts Road for another 8 km then turn right onto Faulkland Rd. After fording the river three times in 3 km, turn right over the river then right again on to Barrington East Road. At its end turn right to return to Gloucester. Half of this 30-km drive is sealed.

Kia-Ora Lookout and Tourist Drive 4
About 4 km from the centre of Gloucester, via Barrington Tops Forest Rd, is the Bowman Farm turnoff (signposted) on the right. Follow Tourist Drive 3 for another 3 km to Kia-Ora Lookout (watch out for the sharp left turn off the bitumen) which offers truly panoramic views of the district.

If, instead, you follow Tourist Drive 4 to the north-west, it leads along an unsealed road through river flats and ridge country. At its end turn left onto Thunderbolts Way (sealed) then left again, after 7 km, back onto Barrington Tops Forest Road.

Mountain Maid Goldmine
Continue west along Barrington Tops Forest Rd through the villages of Barrington (established in 1897) and the former goldrush town of Copeland where gold was discovered in 1872.

17 km from Gloucester there is a clearly signposted turnoff on the left along Old Copeland Rd. It is about 200 m to the Mountain Maid Goldmine carpark. The Mountain Maid Goldmine commenced operations in 1876 and did not close until 1979. There are underground tours, restored equipment, a cedar slab hut, goldpanning, an inspection of the workings, rainforest walks and picnic-barbecue facilities. It is open Wednesday to Sunday from 9.30 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. and every day in school holidays. For further information ring (02) 6558 4303 or go to www.excursions.tac.com.au/goldtownsnsw

Dilgry Circuit
Just to the west of the Old Copeland Road turnoff, the bitumen of Barrington Tops Forest Rd peters out leaving a winding gravel road negotiable in a 2WD (be careful in wet weather).

54 km from Gloucester you can turn right at the Dilgry sign. This unsealed loop road traverses 18 km of scenic countryside before returning to Barrington Tops Forest Road.

Devils Hole
About 60 km from Gloucester, via Barrington Tops Forest Rd, is the Devils Hole Lookout Day Use Area which offers fine views over the Barrington Wilderness and adjoining farmlands. It is, in fact, one of several lookouts which are signposted along the Barrington Tops Forest Road.

Polblue and Walking Trails
About 70 km from Gloucester, along Barrington Tops Forest Rd, is the Polblue Camping Area, situated within Stewarts Brook State Forest, from whence the Barrington Tops Plateau Walk commences. It is about five hours (one way) through sub-alpine woodlands and wetlands, past the Little Murray and Big Hole camping areas, to Careys Peak (1545 m) which offers spectacular views over the Barrington wilderness and the Hunter Valley. Once at Careys Peak there are extensions south to Lagoon Pinch and east to Gloucester Tops. For further information on Barrington Tops National Park ring the National Parks and Wildlife Service on (02) 6558 1478.

4WD Trail and Other Roads
From a point near Polblue, the Barrington Trail (4WD only) heads south off Barrington Tops Forest Road, past the Little Murray and Junction Pools camping areas to Mt Barrington (1558 m) from whence it is a 7-km walk to Careys Peak. The Middle Ridge Trail joins the Barrington Trail just before Mt Barrington, heading north-west back to the Barrington Tops Forest Rd. It traverses private property and both 4WD trails are closed from 1 June to 30 September each year.

93 km from Gloucester, along the Barrington Tops Forest Rd, is the turnoff on the right to Moonan Flat (see entry on Gundy) and beyond lies Scone. A number of side roads (some 4WD only) lead off Barrington Tops Forest Rd to camping areas within Stewarts Brook State Forest.

Woko National Park
9 km west of Gloucester along Barrington Tops Forest Rd (1 km west of the village of Barrington) is the turnoff on the right onto Thunderbolts Way (the road north to Walcha). 11 km along this road (just beyond the locality of Rookhurst) turn left onto Curricabark Road which soon becomes gravel. Just before the first causeway over the Manning River turn right onto the flood detour road which leads to a secluded campground by the river within Woko National Park (8265 acres) which is located on rugged land once occupied by the Birripi people. The campground is located on a former cattle property. There are fireplaces, pit toilets and picnic facilities, but collecting wood is forbidden so bring your own, or a fuel stove.

The Scrub Turkey Circuit (20 minutes return) leads through dry rainforest (where bush turkeys are often seen) then dry sclerophyll forest before rejoining the gravel road. Turn left at the road to return to the campground.

The Cliff Face Walk is steep and takes about two hours (return).It branches off to the right from the Scrub Turkey Track, passing through pockets of sub-tropical rainforest and past rocky outcrops from the escarpment above.

Swimming and liloing can be enjoyed on the river and hiking off the beaten track is possible for experienced bushwalkers.

Bretti Reserve and Thunderbolts Way
34 km north of Gloucester, along Thunderbolts Way, is a turnoff on the right to the locality of Bretti. There is a camping and picnic area on the banks of the Barnard River where swimming and canoeing can be enjoyed. There are picnic and barbecue facilities.

If you follow Thunderbolts Way north to Walcha it passes through Giro State Forest and some fine mountain and river scenery.

Gloucester Tops
9 km south of the town centre, via the Bucketts Way, is Gloucester Tops Rd which heads off to the west. Follow this road for 7 km, turn left at Faulkland then left again at Invergordon (22 km from the Bucketts Way). About 30 from the Bucketts Way is the Gloucester River Camping Area. Wildlife in the area includes lyrebirds, red-necked pademelons and brush turkeys.

Gloucester Tops Rd continues on its winding way for about another 18 km to Gloucester Tops Day Use Area, from whence there are a number of walks (some short, some lengthy), including the Link Trail to the Barrington Tops plateau. A shorter walk leads to Gloucester Falls. There is a diversity of vegetation in the area, including Antarctic beech forest, snow gum forest and swamps.

Mograni Lookout
Mograni Lookout is located 5 km east of Gloucester along the Bucketts Way. It furnishes excellent views of Gloucester Vale. There is also a picnic-barbecue area but no water.

Bundook
A left turn off the Bucketts Way at Mograni Lookout will take you through the fine scenery of the Gloucester Valley to Bundook. From there veer south back to the Bucketts Way then turn right and head back to the lookout. This route covers 56 km, half on unsealed roads.

Walking Tours
Guided walking tours through the Barrington wilderness are available from Forest Escapes, tel: (02) 6558 4133.

Barrington Outdoor Adventure Centre
There is a commercial organisation which organises adventure holidays in the Barrington Tops including kayaking and canoeing. Check them out on http://www.midcoast.com.au/~boac/.

	Tourist Information
	Gloucester Tourist Information Centre 27 Denison St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1408 Facsimile: (02) 6558 1408
	Motels
	Gloucester Country Lodge Motel Bucketts Way Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1812 Facsimile: (02) 6558 1411 Rating: ****
	The Bucketts Way Motel 19 Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 2588 Facsimile: (02) 6558 1998 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Avon Valley Inn Hotel 82 Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1016
	Roundabout Inn Cnr Church & Queen Sts Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1816
	Resorts
	Hookes Creek Forest Retreat 384 Jems Creek Road Cobark Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 5544 Facsimile: (02) 6558 5552 Rating: ****1/2
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Arrowee House Barrington Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 2050
	Barkeldine Farm Bed & Breakfast 1177 Wallanbah Rd 25km east Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 0222 Facsimile: (02) 6558 0248 Rating: ****
	Gloucester Cottage Bed & Breakfast 61 Denison St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 2658 Facsimile: (02) 6558 2658 Rating: ***1/2
	Farm & Eco Holidays
	Never-Never Lodge 689 Manchester Rd via Barrington West Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1615 Facsimile: (02) 6558 1615 Rating: ***
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Valley View Homestead 1783 Bucketts Way Wards River Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 4994 7066 Facsimile: (02) 4994 7066 Rating: ****
	Altamira Holiday Ranch Guesthouse Bakers Creek Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6550 6558 Facsimile: (02) 6550 6463 Rating: ***1/2
	Apartments
	The Great Escape Lofts 75 Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 9166 Facsimile: (02) 6558 9177 Rating: *****
	Holiday Homes & Units
	Gloucester River Gateways 2 Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1528 Rating: ***1/2
	Cottages & Cabins
	Ashmar Country Cottage 1581 Waukivory Rd Waukivory (15km SE Gloucester) Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 0949 Facsimile: (02) 6558 0949 Rating: ***1/2
	Avonleigh Cottage Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 9958 4445
	Olive Gums Cottage 257 Yates Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 0222 Facsimile: (02) 6558 0248 Rating: ***
	Rawdon Vale Cottage Rawdonvale 36km west Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 5504 Facsimile: (02) 6558 5504 Rating: ****
	Rustic River Retreat 1593 Curricabark Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 7594 Facsimile: (02) 6558 7466
	Waterhens Ramble 1754 Waukivory Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 9873 1144 Facsimile: (02) 9873 1410
	Caravan Parks
	Gloucester Tops Riverside Caravan Park Gloucester Tops Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 3155
	Gloucester Holiday Park Denison St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1720 Facsimile: (02) 6558 1720 Rating: ***1/2
	Restaurants
	Altamira Holiday Ranch Motel Bakers Creek Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 65 50 6558
	Ashmar Country Cottage 1581 Waukivory Rd Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 0949
	Bucketts Way Motel 19 Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 2588
	Gloucester Hotel/Motel Cnr Church & Queen Sts Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1816
	United Chinese Restaurant Gloucesters Soldiers Club Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 2222
	Cafés
	Gloucester Coffee Shop 33b Church St Gloucester NSW 2422 Telephone: (02) 6558 1710