Gilgandra
Pleasant service town on the Castlereagh River.
Gilgandra is a smallish country town of 3000 people on
the Castlereagh River in NSW's central west. It is situated at the
junction of the Newell, Oxley and Castlereagh Highways, between Dubbo
and Coonabarabran, 476 km north-west of Sydney and 280 m above
sea-level.
Gilgandra is a service centre to a mixed farming area focused
principally on cropping, sheep and cattle, although pigs, poultry,
aquaculture, ostriches, emus, deer, olives, buffaloes and a eucalypt
plantation all contribute to the local economy.
The town's name is said to mean 'long waterhole' and it
probably derives from the language of the Wiradjuri people who are
thought to have inhabited the area prior to white settlement.
Squatters established the first runs in the district during
the 1830s although closer settlement did not emerge until much later.
The first building erected on the future town site of Gilgandra was the
Bushman's Arms Hotel, licensed in 1866. A bridge over the Castlereagh
was built in 1884 and Gilgandra was proclaimed a town in 1888. The
railway from Dubbo arrived in 1899.
The following year, Breelong, 18 km to the south-east, was
the scene of an infamous multiple murder involving the licensees of the
Breelong Inn, John and Sarah Mawbey, who had in their employ several
Aboriginal workers, including Jimmy Governor and Jacky Underwood.
Jimmy Governor was a part-Aborigine who had worked as a
police tracker before marrying a 16-year-old white woman and obtaining
a contract to erect fencing for the Mawbeys. A dedicated employee who
wished to prove himself to white society, he was initially on good
terms with his employers and their family. However, it seems that
Governor's wife, who worked in the Mawbey house, was belittled for
marrying an Aborigine by Mrs Mawbey and Helena Kurz, the local
schoolteacher who was residing with the Mawbeys.
Whatever the contributing factors, Jimmy and Jacky Underwood
confronted the women at the new Mawbey abode while all of the males
were staying at the inn. Jimmy claimed that Mrs Mawbey called him
'black rubbish' and asserted that he should be shot for marrying a
white woman. Whatever transpired the two men went into a rage and
brutally murdered Sarah Mawbey, three of her daughters and Helena Kurz
with clubs and a tomahawk. Sarah's sister was badly injured.
Jimmy, his brother Joe, and Jacky Underwood then went
on a three-month, 3200-km rampage, inflicting revenge for past
grievances. They murdered five more people, wounded another five,
committed seven armed hold-ups and robbed 33 homes. A massive manhunt
involving hundreds of policemen and trackers and 2000 volunteers failed
to capture the men who ridiculed their pursuers by advertising their
whereabouts and sending satiric letters to the police.
In October a 1000-pound reward was offered and later in the
month they were outlawed, meaning they could be shot on sight by
anybody. By the end of the month Jacky was captured, Joe was shot and
killed near Singleton (q.v.) and Jimmy was captured by a group of
farrmers near Wingham (q.v.) two weeks after being shot in the mouth.
Jimmy and Jacky were hung in January, 1901. In his last days
Jimmy sang native songs, read the Bible and blamed his wife. The
Gilgandra visitors' centre has a pamphlet detailing the pertinent sites
on the old Mawbey estate, though they have all been demolished and are
on private property. The four murdered Mawbeys are buried together in
Gilgandra cemetery. There is a large stone monument behind a wire fence
in the Church of England portion. Noted author Thomas Keneally based
his novel 'The Chant of Jimmy Blacksmith' on the life of Jimmy Governor
and that novel has been made into a film.
Today, Gilgandra is publicised as the 'Home of the
Coo-ees'. This is a reference to the occasion in 1915 when 35 local men
decided to set off from Gilgandra on the first recruiting march of
World War I. Having received no support from the Army the men walked
500 km to Sydney in six weeks, proclaiming their arrival in a town with
the bushman's cry for help, 'coo-ee!'. They received much publicity
along the way and arrived in Sydney, 263 strong. The event sparked
seven other such marches from rural centres.
After the war Gilgandra was awarded £1200 by St Ambrose
Parish of Bournemouth in England as it was considered to have made the
greatest war effort of all the towns in the British Empire. The gift
was strictly to be used for the construction of an Anglican Church
bearing the name of the Bournemouth parish. St Ambrose Anglican Church
was dedicated in 1922.
Gilgandra's annual celebrations include the Coo-ee Festival
which is held over the October long weekend. There is also an Easter
Vintage Farm Rally and an agricultural show in May. The feature film,
'No Worries' (1992) was produced in Gilgandra.
Things to see:
Tourist Information Centre, Coo-ee Park and the Gilgandra Museum
Tune to FM 88 for a radio broadcast of local
information. The Visitors' Information Centre is located in Coo-ee
March Memorial Park, on the Newell Highway, tel: (02) 6847 2045. It is
open seven days from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.and sells gifts and
souvenirs and a range of local books and art. They can also furnish
information concerning farmstays and tour guide services. They can be
emailed at gilinfo@tpg.com.au.
Adjacent is the Gilgandra Museum
containing local memorabilia, most notably the Coo-ee March Memorial
Room. It relates to the occasion in 1915 when 35 men set off on a
six-week, 500-km trek to Sydney as part of the first recruiting march
of World War I.
There are also artefacts and pictures relating to the murders
which occurred in 1900 at Breelong, 18 km south-east of Gilgandra, on
the road to Mendooran. The Governor brothers and Jacky Underwood, all
in the employ of Jack Mawbey, murdered Sarah Mawbey, three of her
children and Helena Kurz, the local schoolteacher.
Rural Museum
Also in the park is Gilgandra's Rural Museum. It
contains local history artefacts and specialises in Australian-invented
rural machinery of yesteryear. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
on weekends and school holidays, or by prior arrangement through the
visitors' centre. There is an annual steam engine rally on Easter Saturday.
The windmill out the front has symbolic value as
there were 300 in operation by the 1950s, earning Gilgandra the title
'The Windmill Town'. They were used to pump up sub-artesian water until
1966. An Avenue of Windmills is being established in the park,
displaying various types and sizes.
Gilgandra Observatory
The Gilgandra Observatory and Display Centre is
located in Willie St, just off the Newell Hwy. Aside from opportunities
to view the rings of Saturn, sun spots, the moons and Great Red Spot of
Jupiter, there are astronomical displays as well as rocks, fossils,
petrified wood and native flora. The centre is usually open from 12.00
p.m. to 4.00 p.m.on weekdays and from 7.00 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. every
night but Sunday when it is closed. During daylight savings the nightly
hours are 8.30 p.m. to 10.00 p.m and in the school holidays the
observatory is open seven evenings a week, tel: (02) 6847 2646.
Flora Reserve
The Gilgandra Native Flora Reserve is 8.5 ha of
remnant bushland which features many plant species, particularly local
wildflowers which are best seen from September to November. There are
picnic and barbecue facilities. To get there head north-east on the
Oxley Highway towards Coonabarabran for 8 km then turn right into Flora
Reserve Rd (well signposted). Admission is free and it is open every
day.
Orana Cactus World
Orana Cactus World is located 1 km south of Gilgandra
on the Newell Highway towards Dubbo. It features both native and exotic
species and is open by appointment, tel: (02) 6847 2642.
Arboretum
The Jack McGirr
Arboretum is located on the Newell Highway, opposite the Rotary Caravan
Park, on the Castlereagh River. Paul McGirr donated these six acres in
memory of his son and daughter, who both died of SIDS. It is intended
as a peaceful rest and recreation area for children. Anyone can
dedicate a memorial tree to a SIDS child (see Chris Keen of the caravan park).
Honey Extraction Plant
The Honey Extraction Plant is located at the western
end of town, on the Warren Rd, in the industrial area of Gilgandra.
Visitors are welcome during extraction but only by appointment, tel:
(02) 6847 2499.
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Tourist Information
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Gilgandra Visitors Centre
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2045
Facsimile: (02) 6847 1292
Email: gilinfo@tpg.com.au
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Motels
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Akropolis Motel
Coonamble Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2636
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2636
Rating: ***
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Alfa Motel
7 Castlereagh St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1188
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2154
Rating: ***
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Bungalow Motel
19 Castlereagh St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1271
Facsimile: (02) 6847 1879
Rating: **1/2
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Castlereagh Motor Inn
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2697
Facsimile: (02) 6847 1537
Rating: ***1/2
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Cooee Motel
Cnr Newell Hwy & Hargraves Lane
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2981
Facsimile: (02) 6847 1511
Rating: ***1/2
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Gilgandra Motel
54 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2500
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2694
Rating: ***1/2
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Orana Windmill Motel
40 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2404
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2844
Rating: ***1/2
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Silver Oaks Motel
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 0111
Facsimile: (02) 6847 1375
Rating: **1/2
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The Village Motor Inn
Dubbo Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1433
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2096
Rating: ***
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Three Ways Motel
Cnr Newell Hwy & Willie St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2241
Facsimile: (02) 6847 0122
Rating: ***1/2
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Hotels
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Golden West Hotel
Miller St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2109
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Railway Hotel
Bundi St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2026
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Royal Hotel
Cnr Miller & Bridge Sts
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2004
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Tattersalls Hotel
Warren St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2080
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Anna's Place
13 Morris St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2790
Rating: ***
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Rosebank Home Stay
East Coonambe Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 0050
Rating: ***1/2
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Apartments
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Gilgandra Lodge Motel
178 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2431
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2431
Rating: **1/2
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Caravan Parks
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Barney's Caravan Park
173 Miller St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2636
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2636
Rating: **
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Gilgandra Rotary Caravan Park
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2423
Facsimile: (02) 6847 2423
Rating: ***1/2
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Restaurants
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Castlereagh Motor Inn
Oxley Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2697
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Dragon & Phoenix Chinese Restaurant
65 Miller St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2382
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Gilgandra Motel
54 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2500
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Kingsway Chinese Restaurant
54 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2999
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Orana Windmill Motel
40 Warren Rd
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2404
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Silver Oaks Motel
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2502
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Village Motor Inn Restaurant
Newell Hwy
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 2356
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Cafés
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Cafe Country Style
44 Miller St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1571
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Jan's Country Kitchen
11 Castlereagh St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1199
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Samaras Cafe
59 Miller St
Gilgandra
NSW
2827
Telephone: (02) 6847 1119
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