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Ruins of property
outbuildings near Coolah on the Narangie
Road.
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Coolah
Service
town located on no major route and consequently dependent on the
economic prosperity of the surrounding rural area.
Coolah is the principal town of the Coolah Shire. It is
situated by the Coolaburragundy River, 89 km north-east of Mudgee and
352 km from Sydney. It functions as a service centre to the surrounding
district which is given over to the production of wheat, cattle, mixed
farming, timber, fat lambs and wool.
Prior to white settlement the area the Coolah valley was
occupied by the Kamilaroi and Wiradjuri peoples. In 1823 explorer Allan
Cunningham became the first known European in the district when he came
across Pandora's Pass, the route over the Warrumbungle Range on to the
Liverpool Plains. The district was surveyed in 1832 and squatters soon
followed, in search of fresh pastures.
The Black Stump Wine Saloon was established about 10 km north
of Coolah at a junction where the road split, heading north-east to
Gunnedah and north-west to Coonabarabran. The pub was apparently named
after the nearby Black Stump Run and Black Stump Creek. As if to
strengthen the claim it is said the Aboriginal name for the area means
'place where the fire went out and left a black stump'. For these
reasons locals argue that the Coolah area lies at the origin of the
Australian saying 'beyond the black stump', meaning beyond the limits
of civilisation, though it has other contenders (see Goolgowi).
The townsite of Coolah
was first occupied in the 1840s. By 1848 there was a slab blacksmith's
and a slab hotel. Local sandstone was used to construct more
substantial buildings in the 1870s.
The railway did not arrive until 1910. Before that time,
travellers en route to Sydney had to journey by a horse-drawn vehicle
to Mudgee, by Cobb & Co coach to Penrith and then by rail to the city.
The Biennial Festival commenced on the weekend of
October 30 to November 1, 1998. It is a garden festival entailing the
opening of some of the town's finest gardens with displays, stalls and
local arts and crafts. The Coolah Rodeo is held each January and there
is a Christmas Street Carnival.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
The Black Stump Motel, 14 Campbell St, tel: (02)
6377 1208.
David Sherlock - Blacksmith
Located at 43 Martin St, David offers an
opportunity to see a smithy working in the traditional manner. Ring on
(02) 6377 1077 or call at the rear of the premises via the back lane.
Coolah Crafts
The craft shop has all manner of crafts and home-made
condiments. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. daily at 37 Binnia St.
McMaster Park
McMaster Park, at the corner of Binnia and Booyamurra
Sts, has a pleasant garden and lawn area, a tourist guide map.
barbecues, play facilities and an early 20th-century bullock wagon.
Coolah Tops National Park
NSW's most recently declared national park, Coolah Tops,
is situated on a plateau 30 km east of Coolah where the Liverpool
Range, the Warrumbungle Range and the Great Dividing Range meet. Long
occupied by the Kamilaroi Aborigines, who have left numerous traces of
their presence, Allan Cunningham became the first known European in the
area in 1823.
The park is essentially eucalypt forest atop basalt
soils. Wildlife is abundant. One of the most prevalent species is the
greater glider, a one-metre-long possum which can glide for up to 100 metres.
The Forest Road (unsealed) runs right through the
park. It is not to be used by any vehicles in wet weather. At the park
entrance is an information board. Another 3 km brings you to a 1-km
side road on the right that leads to a carpark and picnic site from
where there is a 1.5-km walking track which leads to the spectacular
Norfolk Falls and on to the Bald Hill Creek Falls where there is a
no-facilities bush camping area.
Continue a short distance along The Forest Rd to
Pinnacle Rd which heads off to the left. You will soon come to a short
track on the left that leads to Cox Creek Falls Camping Area. About
another 700 m along Pinnacle Rd, to the right, is the park's main
campsite known as The Barracks where there is an information bay and
toilet-barbecue-picnic facilities. Another 3 km along Pinnacle Rd a
short side road on the left leads to a carpark from whence there is a
short walk to Rocky Creek Falls where there are day facilities and some
fine lookout points along the escarpment where Rocky Creek tumbles over
the cliff.
As you continue north along Pinnacle Rd you will pass,
on the right-hand side of the road, the signposted departure points for
the Racecourse Walking Track (6 km) and, about another kilometre north,
the Bundella Walking Track (7 km). The latter leads past a lookout
area. The two eventually join.
At the end of Pinnacle Rd there is a short walking track to
the Pinnacle Lookout, a steep basalt outcrop with fine views to the
north and west to the Warrumbungles. A rough walking track heads south
from the lookout to the basalt caves (the largest being 70-m deep).
The park has a stand of the largest known snow gums in
existence. They can be found on the right-hand side of The Forest Rd as
you head east, about 22 km from Pinnacle Rd. A walk through the stand
is being organised and will soon be signposted from The Forest Rd.
About 24 km east of Pinnacle Rd, on the left-hand side of
The Forest Rd, is Breeza Lookout which proffers extensive views out
over the Liverpool Plains. There is a small picnic area and an
information bay. If you are fit there is a short but steep track from
here to Shepherds Peak protruding from the northern escarpment.
At the end of The Forest Rd, Jemmys Creek Trail
(4WD only) heads south where it joins the Merriwa-Cassilis Rd.
To get there head out of town on the road to Cassilis. After
2 km turn left on to the Coolah Creek Rd. After about 19 km there is a
turnoff on the right to Coolah Tops National Park (see next entry).
Cunningham Memorial and Pandora's Pass
If you ignore the turnoff to the national park and stick
to the left it will take you, after 3 km, to a lovely picnic site on
the northern side of Coolah Creek where you will find the Allan
Cunningham Memorial.
In 1823 Cunningham became the first known European
in the district when he followed this route to Pandora's Pass which
took him over the Warrumbungle Range where he gazed down upon the
Liverpool Plains. The grazing potential of the plains did not go
unnoticed by the explorer and they quickly attracted squatters in
search of pastures.
If you continue north for 4 km it leads to Pandora's Pass
(815 m above sea-level). There are excellent views back over the Coolah
Valley and north over the Liverpool Plains.
Black Stump Nursery Rhyme Village and
Camel Farm
The 'village' features 15 nursery rhyme characters.
Camel rides are available and there is a playground, barbecue area, a
log chapel, a matchstick work display, a souvenir shop and nearby
caves. Two-day and week-long camel safaris to local waterfalls and
caves can be arranged by prior booking. The village is open from 10.00
a.m. to 5.00 p.m. seven days a week. To get there head south-west on
the Mudgee-Gilgandra road for about 5 km and there is a signposted
turnoff to the right.
The Black Stump Rest Area
There are several towns in Australia which lay some
claim to being at the origin of the saying 'beyond the black stump',
meaning beyond the limits of civilisation. The Black Stump Wine Saloon
was established about 10 km north of Coolah at a junction where the
road split, heading north-east to Gunnedah and north-west to
Coonabarabran. The pub was apparently named after the nearby Black
Stump Run and Black Stump Creek. As if to strengthen the claim it is
said the Aboriginal name for the area means 'place where the fire went
out and left a black stump'.
A rest area has been established by the road at the
approximate site of the old saloon. There is, of course, a black stump
to mark the spot.
King Togee's Grave
For those with a keen interest in Aboriginal history,
the grave of King Togee is to be found 29 km west of Coolah on the
left-hand side of the Neilrex Rd, just past the 'Langdon' homestead.
There is little to see other than a weather-worn sandstone headstone
surrounded by four white posts with a sign overhead reading: 'TOGEE
KING OF THE BUTHEROE TRIBE'. King Togee was friendly with the early
settlers but was speared to death by a young man named Cuttabush who
later became the king of a Coonabarabran sub-tribe.
Fossicking for Fossils
To access the Narangerie Leaf Fossil Bed head
south-west on the Dunedoo Rd for 18 km then turn right on to the
Narangerie Rd. The soft white rock of the roadside gravel pit is 3 km
along this road to the right.
Fishing
Rainbow trout can be
found in the upper reaches of the Coolaburragundy River during the
trout season (first October weekend to Easter). Yellowbelly, carp and
catfish are caught in the lower reaches.
Farm stays
Gundare Homestead is 10 km north of Coolah on a
3000-acre working property, tel: (02) 6377 1275. Baladonga, north of
Coolah, is based around a 100-year-old stone homestead. There is a
property tour, a tennis court and a swimming pool, tel: (02) 6377 1390.
Munna is 26 km north-west off the road to Binnaway. It also has a
tennis court and swimming pool.
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Bed & Breakfast/Guest House
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Gundare Bed & Breakfast
Gundare
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1275
Rating: **
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Tourist Information
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The Coolah Black Stump Motel
10 Campbell St
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1208
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Motels
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The Coolah Black Stump Motel
10 Campbell St
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1208
Rating: **
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Hotels
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Coolah Valley Hotel
28 Binnia St
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1210
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Hotel Coolah
61 Binnia St
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1231
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Baladonga Bed & Breakfast
Blackstump Way
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1390
Rating: ***
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Caravan Parks
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Cunningham Caravan Park
Cnr Cunningham St & Cassilis Rd
Coolah
NSW
2843
Telephone: (02) 6377 1338
Facsimile: (02) 6377 1338
Rating: ***
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