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The road beside the Williams River
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Clarence Town
(and Seaham)
Small and pleasant town on the northern edge of
the Hunter Valley District
Clarence Town is a small, pleasant, sprawling and
tranquil township picturesquely situated by the banks of the Williams
River, 204 km north of Sydney and 50 km north of Newcastle. When the
river system was the main mode of transport within Australia, Clarence
Town, being located at the Williams River's head of navigation, was a
busy and important river port. Until the railway arrived it was
effectively the gateway to northern New South Wales - a river trip from
Newcastle taking about five hours.
The area around Clarence Town was once inhabited by the
Gringgai clan of the Wanaruah people. The first Europeans to
investigate the area were Lieutenant - Colonel Paterson (then
Lieutenant Governor of NSW) and explorer Francis Barrellier who was in
the area to conduct a survey of the harbour in Newcastle. They explored
the Hunter River and its tributaries following what they took to be the
Hunter to its navigable limit. Governor King named the river in
(William) Paterson's honour. A cedargetters camp was later established
here and a village was in existence by 1826.
Clarence Town was initially known as Erringhi.
Presumably the Aboriginal name for the site, it is thought to mean
'place of wild ducks'. The settlement was situated at what is now the
southern end of town by the Williams River where there was a wharf and
where William Lowe and James Marshall established the Deptford
Shipyards in 1830. Clarence Town's main claim to fame was that this was
the spot where, in 1831, Australia's first ocean-going paddle steamer
(called the William IV) was built and launched.
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St Davids, a tiny wooden
church at Clarence Town.
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Marshall and Lowe
produced many vessels over the years, mostly under 50 tons, reaching a
commercial peak in the 1870s and closing in the 1890s. Some of the
steamers used on the Sydney to Morpeth run were also built here.
The village was renamed in 1832 after the Duke of Clarence
(who became King William IV in 1830). A prosperous town by mid-century
it was much bigger than Dungog. Timber was loaded here for
international destinations. By the 1880s dairying, grazing and fodder
production had become the town's economic mainstays and they remain so
to this day.
Following on from the general economic depression of the
1890s floods hit for four consecutive years and a fire destroyed much
of the town. When the railway arrived in 1911 Clarence Town was
bypassed and its importance as a centre of exchange vanished.
Things to see:
Shipbuilding Plaque
At the southern end of town a gravel road (signposted
'Boat Ramp') runs off Queen St to a small park with picnic facilities
overlooking a green, tree-lined and beautiful section of the wide, deep
and placid river. There is a plaque at the picnic spot which
commemorates 'the 150th anniversary of the launching of the
paddle-wheel steamer William IV from the Deptford Shipyards, Clarence
Town, 500 metres downstream on the west bank of the Williams River on
14th November 1831.
William IV was the first ocean-going steamer built in
Australia. She left Clarence Town under sail and her engines were
fitted in Sydney. Built by William Lowe and James Marshall for Sydney
merchant J.H. Grose, her length was 80 ft (24.4 m) and beam 15 ft (4.6
m). The plaque was unveiled by Mrs Jessie Wetzler, a great
grand-daughter of William Lowe. A replica of the vessel plies Newcastle
harbour on the third Sunday of each month.
Post Office
The town's substantial two-storey post office (c.1880)
has a porch with cast-iron trim around the pillars and arched windows
on the upper storey emphasised by semi-circular cement mouldings and
distinct ledges.
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The Erringhi Hotel in
Clarence Town
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Erringhi Hotel
Just beyond it, on the other side of the road, is the
very attractive Erringhi Hotel (1913) which was erected on the site of
the George and Dragon Inn from 1842. This two-storey symmetrical
building has elaborate cast-iron lacework on the upstairs balcony
fencing and the eaves of the posts, and carved timber bargeboards
around the gables.
Hua Tsa
At the end of the road turn left into King St. At no.
132, to the right, unmistakably, is Hua-Tsa (1856), a beautiful
building originally known as The Mill House and built on a land grant
made out to Charles Windeyer in 1833. It is a long, single-storey house
constructed of hand-made bricks with a very high hipped roof,
encircling verandah, cedar joinery, and six-panelled doors with
semi-circular fanlights, and shuttered, multi-paned sash windows.
Roseneath
Just a couple of
doors along, and set back from the road, is Roseneath (1889) with a
lovely verandah, shuttered windows and fine gardens.
Hollydene
At no. 40 Russell St is
Hollydene (1888), another fine building with cast-iron lacework and an
impressive garden.
Courthouse and Police Station
Designed by James Barnet the Courthouse was built in
1868-69 and is now a local history museum, open weekends and public
holidays from 10.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m., contact (02) 4996 4267. It is a
small timber building and, though modestly conceived, is unlike most
contemporary courthouses. The roof is very steeply pitched with
consequently distinct gables. The verandah roof is hipped and supported
by timber columns. Next door is a pink police station with brown quoins
also dating back to the 19th century and still used for its original purpose.
The Bridge Reserve
At the northern end of Grey St turn right into Duke
St and follow the road as it winds to the left, past the lovely reserve
on the riverbank and over the Brig O Johnson Bridge. There are picnic
facilities, toilets, a childrens' play area, a boat ramp, a camping
area and a caravan park where you will find Just Canoes which has
kayaks and canoes for hire, tel: (02) 4996 4200.
The Good Samaritan Donkey Sanctuary
The Good Samaritan Donkey Sanctuary, founded in
1990 to care for abandoned and mistreated donkeys. It is located at
Glen William which is 6 km out of Clarence Town. It is open by
appointment only. Contact 02 4996 5596 for details or check out the
website www.donkeysanctuary.org.au.
Scenic Drive via
Glen Martin
Just beyond the donkey sanctuary Glen Martin Rd heads
off to the left. This is an alternative scenic drive to Dungog. The
locality of Glen William is about 6 km along this road. After an
additional 3.5 km (watch for the massive hill adjacent the road and the
deer farm on the right) turn right into Pine Brush Rd then, after
another 6.4 km, turn right again into Alison Rd which will take you the
8 or 9 km to Dungog.
Wallarobba
The road to Wallarobba runs to the
left (west) off Clarence Town Rd. It leads through a verdant and scenic
valley to Wallarobba. When you come to the Paterson-Dungog Rd turn
left. 500 m will bring you to Camelot Lavender Farm. It has lavender
products and cottage garden plants for sale as well as craft items and
Devonshire teas. There is also an animal friendship farm including
llamas. They are open from 10 00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday
or other times for groups, contact (02) 4995 6166.
Turn around heading north-east along the road to Dungog, over
the railway crossing and Wallarobba Creek Bridge. The railway line to
the right and the spectacle of the hills in the distance accompany you
until you rejoin Clarence Town Rd. A right turn will take you back to
Clarence Town and a left to Dungog.
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View across the waters of
Seaham
Weir
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Seaham
Head
west along Queen St and this road will become Seaham Rd which will take
you the 13 km to Seaham. The pink-coloured church which is visible on a
hill to the right just as you leave Clarence Town is St Patrick's. The
drive to Seaham is very green and pleasant. On your left as you enter
Seaham is Seaham Weir which is a large and beautiful body which is a
popular fishing spot well-stocked with bass and mullet from November to
February.
Turn left at the Raymond Terrace sign along East Seaham Rd
then right at the Warren St intersection. To the left is the small but
attractive St Andrew's Anglican Church (1860), a quaint little building
made of rubble stone. It stands adjacent Seaham Swamp Nature
Reserve.You will usually see the impressive spectacle of many dozens of
herons perched in the tea-trees.
Other Activities
Erringhi Gallery and Studio at 74 Durham St,
Clarence Town, is open from 10 to 5 weekends and public holidays,
contact (02) 4996 4000. Clarence Town Country Treks can be contacted on
(02) 4996 4480. Hunter Valley Day Tours offer a range of guided 4WD
tours of the Hunter Valley complete with commentary. They pick up
clients from anywhere. Bookings are necessary, contact (02) 4938 5031.
Hunter Action Tours offer outdoor camping and walking tours, contact
(02) 4976 1416 or (019) 459 473. Horizon Safaris conduct 4WD tours from
Newcastle north through Stockton Beach up to Port Stephens or through
the vineyards of Port Stephens and the Lower Hunter, as well as a tour
through the heritage of Morpeth, contact (018) 681 600. Australian
Scenic Tours can be contacted on (02) 4929 4333. The Wine and Cheese
Tasting Tour will pick you up from any location as far north as
Singleton, contact (02) 4938 5031 while Hunter Vineyard Tours can be
contacted on (02) 4991 1659. Walking tours of the Hunter are conducted
by Federation Track Walkers, contact (02) 9484 9701.
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Cedar Grange Bed & Breakfast
8 Riverview Close
Clarence Town
NSW
2321
Telephone: (02) 4996 4141
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Hotels
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Erringhi Hotel
21 Grey St
Clarence Town
NSW
2321
Telephone: (02) 4996 4101
Rating: *
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