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The flat plains and dramatic
skies of the
Riverina
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Booligal
Riverina
town made famous by the expression "Hay and Hell and Booligal"
This hot and dusty sheep and cattle town on the
Lachlan River is situated in a claypan, known as the 'Devil's Claypan',
where the occasional coolibah tree offers the only shade. Indeed so
occasional is the shade that the inn halfway between Hay and Booligal
is called the One Tree Hotel as it was erected near the only tree to be
seen for miles in what is remarkably flat country.
The town was immortalized in 'Banjo' Paterson's humorous
poetic damnation "Hay and Hell and Booligal", a phrase then known "far
and wide along the Riverina side" according to the poem which presents
a visit to the town as a fate worse than hell, possibly a reference to
the property of 'Hell's Gate' which lies between Hay and Balranald, or
to One Tree Plain on which the hotel is located. Heat, dust, flies,
rabbits, mosquitoes, snakes, drought, lack of facilities and
unpopularity with shearers and drovers appear to be the major complaints.
Situated in an area once occupied by the Nari-nari
Aborigines, Booligal is 704 km west of Sydney via the Great and Mid
Western Highways and 77 km north of Hay. The name comes from an
indigenous word thought to mean 'a windy place'. In town is a memorial
to explorer and surveyor John Oxley in the form of a giant theodolite
(the surveyor's primary tool) set in stone. He was the first known
European to sight the plains beyond the Lachlan River. By 1890 Booligal
was a town with some 500 people, two hotels, a courthouse, post office
and other infrastructure. It was a staging post on the Cobb & Co. mail
and passenger run from Hay to Wilcannia which closed in 1914.
Things to see:
The Giant Theodolite
In town is a memorial to explorer and surveyor
John Oxley in the form of a giant theodolite (the surveyor's primary
tool) set in stone. He was the first known European to sight the plains
beyond the Lachlan River.
Goonawarra Nature Reserve
19 km south is Goonawarra Nature Reserve fronting the
river near the 'Quandong' property. The terrain on this alluvial flood
plain is typically flat. Waterfowls inhabit the billabongs,
watercourses and lignum swamps and there are galahs and the occasional
wedge-tailed eagle to be seen. Kangaroos and emus are to be found on
the plains while the Lachlan River is full of Murray cod, yellow-belly,
redfin and yabbies.
The One Tree Hotel
The One Tree Hotel is 39 km south on land that was
originally a pastoral holding. It was built in 1862 as Finch's Inn and
served as a staging post on the Cobb & Co. mail and passenger run
between Hay and Wilcannia until that service ended in 1914. Here the
passengers would disembark for lunch and a rest while the horse team
was changed. William Clark bought the hotel off Alexander Finch and he
leased the huge government tank nearby which watered up to 12 000 sheep
at a time. Horse and bullock teams of up to a thousand in number were
watered at the charge of a penny per head. The inn was purchased by the
McQuade family in the 1880s who still own it. Although the original
structure burned down in 1901 the insurance claim stated that
recompense could only be made if the building was rebuilt exactly as it
had been so the current hotel is a replica. The license lapsed in the
1940s when it became a private residence. It is currently derelict but
this lovely old building is well worth a look. One Tree was proclaimed
a village in 1885 though it never grew and the old building is a lone
sentinel on the plains today.
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Hotels
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Duke of Edinburgh Hotel
Booligal
NSW
2711
Telephone: (02) 6993 8123
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Restaurants
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Duke of Edinburgh Hotel
Booligal
NSW
2711
Telephone: (02) 6993 8123
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