Rottnest Island
One of Perth's favourite holiday and day trip destinations.
Located 19 km off the coast from Perth,
Rottnest Island is the city's favourite holiday and day tripping
destination. Only 12 minutes by air and 2 hours by water the island is
an accessible location for those wishing to escape from Perth. There is
a joke which Perth people tell against themselves about the island
which is "Where do Perth people go?" to Rottnest island because there's
nowhere else to go." It's hard to work out whether this is a comment on
Perth or Rottnest Island.
The history of the island is ancient and exotic. It
seems that as recently as the last Ice Age both Rottnest and Garden
Island (see Rockingham) were connected
to the mainland. So recent is this that the local Aborigines, even
today, have a story explaining the origin of the island. In 1979 the
prominent Western Australian Aboriginal poet and playwright, Jack
Davis, incorporated the story of the origin of Rottnest into his play
Kullark. The story of the origin of the Perth basin, the Darling Ranges
and Rottnest Island is told by the character Yagan as a song of creation:
You came, Warrgul,
With a flash of fire and a
thunder roar,
And as you came
You flung the earth up to the
sky,
You formed the mountain ranges
And the undulating plains.
You made a home for me
On Kargattup and Karta Koomba,
Kargattup and
Karta Koomba.
You made the beeyol beeyol,
The wide clear river,
As you travelled onward to the sea.
And as you went into the sunset
Two rocks you left to mark your
passing,
To tell of your returning
And our affinity.
The Dutch ships which sailed the Roaring Forties and
nearly bumped into the Western Australian coast were aware of Rottnest
Island as early as 1627 and by 1658 Dutch sailors from the Waeckende
Boeij had landed on the island.
The island acquired its name from the explorer Willem
de Vlamingh who mistook the quokkas (small wallabies which inhabit the
island) for rats and named the island 'Rat's Nest Island; or, in Dutch,
Rottenest Island. The 'e' was dropped.
A number of explorers stopped at the island during the early
nineteenth century. Nicholas Baudin explored it in 1801, Louis de
Freycinet in 1803, Phillip Parker King in 1822, and Captain James
Stirling in 1827
With the settlement on the Swan River in 1829 there was a
serious attempt to establish a colony on the island. By 1830 there were
a few farmers on the island and in 1831 the town of Kingston was
proclaimed. Thomson Bay is named after Robert Thomson who took up land
on the island in 1831.
The white settlement failed and by 1838 Rottnest Island had
become a prison for Aborigines from all over Western Australia. Thomson
surrendered his land holdings in 1839 and was the last person to
privately own land on the island.
There is a great diversity of opinion on the conditions of
the Aboriginal prison. The English novelist Anthony Trollope declared
that the Aborigines enjoyed wonderful conditions while Daisy Bates
(probably more of a realist) wrote of the near genocide and the
appalling conditions which prevailed. Rottnest remained a prison for
Aborigines until 1903.
Over the years Rottnest has had a variety of functions.
In 1848 it became a pilot station for Fremantle. At one point it was an
internment camp. During World War II, with the threat of invasion down
the coast a real possibility, it became a military post.
Today, as it has been since the nineteenth century, it
is a holiday resort for Perth people. The absence of cars (everyone on
the island rides a pushbike or walks), the historic buildings, and the
charm of the huge Moreton Bay figs and the quiet waters around the
island, have been a magnet for Perth people since the 1850s.
If you can get hold of a copy (it has been out of print
for some years) the Rottnest Island Sketchbook with drawings by Paul
Rigby and text by Kirwan Ward is a delightful account of the history of
the island with evocative sketches.
Things to see:
Rottnest Island Heritage Trails
1. Vincent Way Heritage Trail
A 2 km walk which takes about 45 minutes. This is the
most important of the Heritage Trails on the island as it includes all
the buildings in the Rottnest Island Old Settlement which is National
Estate listed and, as the National Estate Register observes "This
historic group is integrated around an avenue of Moreton Bay fig and
olive trees, and has the atmosphere of a 19th century village".
The Vincent Way Heritage Trail starts at the sea wall (built
between 184649 by Aboriginal prisoners from limestone quarried on the
island) and includes cottages F and G (built around 1840 by Henry
Vincent as a residence for himself and his family and restored in 1986
by discredited Perth entrepreneur Laurie Connell), cottages H, J and E
(built around 1847 to house the islandıs military guard), the
Administrator's Cottage (late 1840s), the boatshed (1859), cottages K1
and K2 (1847), cottage with boatshed (1846), cottage M (1867), cottage
L (1871), Buckingham Palace (1871 - it got its name because a warder
named Buckingham living in it for a time), the Lodge Resort (which
operated as a boyıs reformatory between 18801901), the Museum
(1857-59) which was originally built as a store and mill and now houses
an interesting exhibition of artefacts and memorabilia connected to the
island's history, the Quad - an octagonal prison for Aborigines built
in 1864 and now accommodation for visitors to the island, The Chapel
(1858), the Ranger's Office (originally the salt store - 1856) and the
Hotel (1859) which was built as a summer residence for the Governor and
first used by Governor Hampton in 1864. It was converted to a hotel in 1953.
2. Cape Vlamingh Heritage Trail
A 1 km walk which takes a leisurely 30 minutes and
includes opportunities to see the wreck of the Kiryo Maru, see some of
the islandıs fauna including (if you are lucky) quokkas, dugites (they
are poisonous), fairy terns, dolphins, investigate such flora as the
sea berry saltbush and the coastal daisy, and visit Bridge Rock and the
island's Blow Hole.
3. Oliver Hill Battery Heritage Trail
A 1.5 km walk around the Oliver Hill Battery which was
built on the island in 1937. The walk combines a look at the fauna and
flora of the area as well as the gun emplacements and observation posts.
4. Vlamingh Memorial Heritage Trail
A 1 km walk from the Lodge to the far end of Garden Lake
which passes the small cemetery, the quarry where Henry Vincent cut the
limestone for his buildings, and the Vlamingh Memorial. The trail
brochure includes extensive information on the fauna and flora of the island.
5. Rottnest Wrecks Heritage Trail
And, the most unusual of Heritage Trails, The Rottnest
Wrecks Heritage Trail (make sure you wear a snorkel). Around the island
are the wrecks of the Transit (1842) a wooden two masted schooner, the
Gem (1876) a 52 ton British cutter, the Macedon (1883) 562 ton iron
steamer, the Janet (1887) a 211 ton 3 masted schooner, the Denton Holme
(1890) a 998 ton iron barque, the Uribes (1942) a 188 ton schooner, the
Lady Elizabeth (1878), the Raven (1891) a 343 ton 3 masted barque, the
Shark (1939), the Anitra (1979) a French yacht which had been sailed
from Plymouth - it is now outside the islandıs museum, the Mira Flores
(1886) a 500 ton iron barque, the City of York (1899) an 1194 ton iron
barque, the Miwok II (1983) an iron barge used for Army Training and
the Kiryo Maru I (1984), a Japanese tuna boat which can easily be seen
from Cape Vlamingh. The Heritage Trail brochure provides detailed
histories of the wrecks and a map indicating where each one now lies.
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Tourist Information
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Visitors Centre
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9372 9752
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Hotels
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Rottnest Hotel
Bedford Ave
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9292 5011
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Rottnest Lodge Resort
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9292 5161
Rating: ***
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Lodges & Chalets
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YHA Lodge
Kingston Barracks
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9372 9780
Rating: **
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Camping & Other
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Allison & Caroline Thomson Camping Areas
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9372 9737
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Restaurants
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Rottnest Island Cafe &Tearooms
Thompson Bay
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9292 5171
Facsimile: (08) 9292 5079
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Rottnest Lodge Resort
Rottnest Island
WA
6161
Telephone: (08) 9292 5161
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