The Holy Trinity Church

Roebourne (including Point Samson)
Fascinating historic town in the Pilbara
Roebourne is one of those deceptive towns. To the passer by it looks like a rather rundown community with little of interest. Then the remarkable stone buildings, telling a story of bygone times, become visible and it is obvious that this is more than just another small and insignificant community. It is, in fact, the oldest settlement between Geraldton and Darwin - the one isolated community on the whole vast and lonely coastline which is now the Kimberley and Pilbara. It was once the administrative centre of the North-West.

Located 1468 km north of Perth, 654 km north of Carnarvon and 12 metres above sea level on the North West Coastal Highway, Roebourne has a current population of some 1150. It was named after the first Western Australian Surveyor­General John Septimus Roe.

The town was established in 1866 after Francis T. Gregory had explored the coastline in 1861. Gregory¹s favourable reports on the area encouraged settlement by pastoralists. The first European settlers to arrive in the area were Walter Padbury and John Wellard in 1863. The following year the Withnells arrived. The local heritage trail is named after Emma Withnell (she was the cousin of Francis Gregory) who was the first woman settler in the Pilbara and is known as 'Mother of the North West'.

Of course the coastline near the town had experienced the standard litany of early adventurers. Dutch ships had made their way north along the coast heading towards Batavia, Dampier had passed by in 1688 and 1700, and Phillip Parker King, in his epic survey of the coast had named the nearby Nickol Bay in 1821.

These passers by paled in comparison to the Withnells who arrived with two children, 1000 ewes, 50 rams, 10 horses and 10 head of cattle. Their one room house made of mud and grass was the first building in Roebourne.

The following year a magistrate and police constable arrived and a post office and court house were built. The town was proclaimed in 1866.

The usual maltreatment of the local Aborigines took an unpleasant turn at Roebourne when in the 1860s an outbreak of smallpox occurred which decimated the local population. It was during this unhappy time that Emma Withnell became involved with the local people nursing them as best she could. She was later admitted to the tribe.

In 1874 Peter Warburton reached Roebourne after travelling from the Overland Telegraph Line across the vast, unexplored loneliness of the Great Sandy Desert.

Roebourne¹s moment of glory came in the 1880s when gold was discovered in the Pilbara at Marble Bar and Nullagine. It remained the most important coastal centre in the Pilbara until 1912 when the construction of a railway from Marble Bar to Port Hedland ensured the immediate decline of Roebourne, Cossack and Point Samson.

However the period from about 1885 until 1912 saw the town blossom. Most of the interesting buildings in the town date from this time. The complex which consists of the Gaol, Court House and Police Barracks (all situated off Carnarvon Terrace as you enter the town from the North West Coastal Highway) is fascinating and stands in stark contrast to the rest of the town.

It is hardly surprising to learn that the inmates of the Gaol were almost exclusively local Aborigines. A bizarre law which had been created to ensure that the local Aborigines were virtual slaves to the local landowners ensured that there was a constant stream of Aborigines through the gates of the prison.

It was a neat piece of social legislation which seriously backfired. During the 1870s the WA government introduced the Œindenture system¹ to control the exploitation of Aborigines in the labour force. In theory an employer could be fined for failing to provide basic conditions relating to food, clothing and health. Aborigines in turn were obliged to remain with their employer. Unfortunately this system worked against the Aborigines. While an Aborigine who breached the contract was subject to imprisonment the pastoralist was only liable to a fine which the authorities failed to enforce or the offender failed to heed.

As a result hundreds of Aborigines were sentenced to imprisonment for absconding from their contracts. And for many years the Roebourne precinct provided for the day to day arrest, trial, and imprisonment of these Aboriginal Œoffenders¹. This conflict between Aborigines and police has not been resolved and the town experienced considerable problems as recently as 1985.

During the 1890s goldrush the Roebourne complex also played an important role in maintaining law and order amongst the transient population which moved between the port of Cossack and the goldfields.

Things to see:  

The Roebourne Gaol

Roebourne Gaol
Roebourne Gaol, in Queen St, is now a combination Visitor Centre, historical museum (indicating what life was like for prisoners in the late 19th century), and local art and craft centre. This building was one of colonial architect George Temple Poole's first projects in Roebourne and work commenced in 1886 when four stone cells were built. These are now in ruins at the rear of the complex. Further gaol buildings were added in the next few years and local stone was used for both aesthetic and practical reasons. Aboriginal labour was used to quarry this readily available stone. Temple Pool's planning ability, which later received wider recognition throughout Australia, is clearly demonstrated in the design of this gaol complex. Removing several nondescript buildings from the central area in 1887 he replaced them with an unusual octagonal stone prison which became the focal point of the precinct. All the buildings relate to the octagonal design and a low stone wall built in 1892 helps to unify the whole complex whilst still giving the impression of a large informal courtyard.

From May to October the Gaol/Visitor Centre is open weekdays from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and, on weekends and public holidays, until 4.00 p.m. The rest of the year it is open weekdays from 9.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. and Saturdays from 9.00 a.m. to midday. It can be contacted on (08) 9182 1060.

Emma Withnell Heritage Trail
This 52-km driving and walking tour of the region commences at the Gaol and takes in Wickham, Cossack and Point Samson (see entry on Wickham). The associated brochure provides a detailed guide to the significant heritage buildings of the region, including the Union Bank (1888) - the first official bank building in the North West, and the Post Office (1887).

Roebourne Police Station
A notable feature of Temple Poole¹s architecture, evident in the Police Station, is his use of verandahs which suggests an understanding of tropical conditions. Although he had not long been in Western Australia he had spent some time in Ceylon and understood the value of a wide verandah around a building to provide shelter from the heat and glare of the hot north west sun.

Holy Trinity Church
Other interesting buildings in the town include the Holy Trinity Church in Withnell Street. A simple building of local stone it was constructed in 1894 and for years was the only place of worship in the Pilbara.

Millstream-Chichester National Park
Located 150 km south of Roebourne, via the Roebourne-Wittenoom Rd, this 200,000-ha park occupies land around the tree-lined Fortescue River (where canoeing can be enjoyed) and Millstream Creek amid the Chichester Range, which emerges quite dramatically from the coastal plain, creating a landscape of escarpments and rolling hills.

The land here was long occupied by the Yinjibarndi people who made a camp at Millstream where an aquifer creates a freshwater oasis known as Chinderwarinner Pool. Today the Yinjibarndi act as rangers and other employees within the park. The park land became part of a gigantic pastoral station in 1865, encompassing 55,000 sheep. The old station homestead, built in 1919, is now the park's visitor centre. It has displays on the Yinjibarndi, the early European settlers and the park's ecology and attractions.

The land around Millstream's water pool supports typical vegetation of the tropical north, such as palms, although introduced species such as date palms and cotton palms have spread out along Millstream Creek. From June to August the winter rains encourage the growth of colourful wildflowers. Black flying foxes, a range of birds and plenty of dragonflies and damselflies are also found around Millstream. Eurosare found in the rocky areas and red kangarooos on the plains.

There are five walking trails in the park. The Homestead Walk (750 metres return) and the Muriunmunyjurna Track (6.8 km return) depart from the Homestead which is located just off the Millstream-Yarraloola Road, which runs off the main Roebourne-Wittenoom Road.

The Python Pool Track (100 metres return) commences from a special carpark on the Roebourne-Wittenoom Road (prior to the turnoff to Millstream). This permanent freshwater pool is deep enough for diving and is located at the bottom of a cliff in the Chichester Range escarpment.

A little further along the Roebourne-Wittenoom Road is the Mount Herbert carpark. A 600-metre return track leads to the top of the mountain, from whence there are excellent views. The serious walker can also pursue the Chichester Range Camel Trail (8 km one way) from this starting point. Walkers should bring plenty of their own water, a hat, strong sunscreen and redoubtable shoes.

Those who prefer to do their sight-seeing from within a car can follow the Millstream Scenic Drive (6 km), which takes in Crossing Pool, or the 33-km Millstream Circuit via Snappy Gum Drive, incorporating Crossing Pool, Deep Reach Pool and Cliff Lookout.

Fishing, camping and picnicking can all be enjoyed. Millstream has toilets, gas barbecues, picnic tables, a telephone, disabled access and unboiled water. Charming Chinderwarriner Pool, surrounded by palm trees and paperbarks, is situated nearby. Bush camping areas exist at Crossing Pool,Snake Creek and Deep Reach (be aware that these pools are deep and can be very cold in winter). Rowing, canoeing, rafting and windsurfing are possible at Deep Reach Pool and Crossing Pool. The months from May to August are the most temperate times to visit the park. Entrance and camping fees apply. For more information ring (08) 9184 5144 or fax: (08) 9184 5146.

For day toursof the Millstream area, ring Nor-West Explorer Tours on (08) 9144 1056.

Harding Dam
Located 27 km from Roebourne the dam is a popular day outing with grassed areas and picnic and barbecue facilities.

	Tourist Information
	Roebourne District Tourist Association Old Gaol, Queen St P. O. Box 248 Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9182 1060 Facsimile: (08) 9182 1257 Email: roebourne_tourist@kisser.net.au
	Hotels
	Mt Welcome Motel/Hotel Roe St P.O. Box 102 Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9182 1001 Rating: **
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Delilah's Bed & Breakfast 303 Meares Dve Point Samson Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9187 1471 or 1407 992 656 Facsimile: (08) 9187 1596
	Lodges & Chalets
	Point Samson Lodge Point Samson Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9187 1052 Facsimile: (08) 9187 1603 Email: pslodge@kisser.net.au
	Caravan Parks
	Harding River Caravan Park De Grey St P.O. Box 144 Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9182 1063 Rating: ***
	Solvieg Caravan Park Point Samson Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9187 1414
	Restaurants
	Mt Welcome Motel/Hotel Roe St P.O. Box 102 Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9182 1001
	Point Samson Lodge Point Samson Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9187 1052 Facsimile: (08) 9187 1603 Email: pslodge@kisser.net.au
	Trawlers Tavern Point Samson Roebourne WA 6718 Telephone: (08) 9187 1414