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Pilbara sand dunes to the
east of Onslow
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Onslow
(including Thevenard Island, Direction Island, Barrow Island and the
Montebello Islands)
Sleepy coastal town near to major offshore oil reserves
Onslow is a quiet sleepy little town which would be
very happy if it was never became a major tourist destination. It is a
place where people go to fish and to have quiet holidays and in that
sense is a very northern equivalent of Cervantes or Jurien. Of course
all this peace and quietness will soon disappear as significant oil
reserves have been discovered near Thevenard Island and the town's
future is, almost certainly, tied to the fortunes of an oil industry
which already sees nearby Barrow Island as a major supplier.
Located 1387 km north of Perth, Onslow lies on the
coast 82 km from the main North West Coastal Road. It is known in the
Pilbara as 'Cyclone City' as, since its establishment in 1883, it has
experienced major cyclones in 1926, 1934, 1961 and 1963. The 1963
cyclone had winds which were measured at 232 km/h. In fact the cyclones
have occurred with such regularity that they have had profound effects
on the town - it was forced to relocate after the 1926 cyclone and the
frequency of cyclones in the 1960s forced the reconstruction of the
local jetty to be abandoned.
The area around Onslow was first settled in the
early 1880s by graziers who brought sheep into the area. In 1883 the
town was founded and named after Sir Alexander Onslow (1842-1908), the
chief justice of Western Australia at the time. The discovery of gold
on the Ashburton River in the 1890s gave the town a brief boost but it
was destroyed by the 1926 cyclone and was relocated to its present site
on the Beadon River shortly afterwards.
During World War 11 it became an important US
submarine refuelling base. As such it was bombed by the Japanese in
1942. It had the dubious privilege of being the most southerly town
bombed by the Japanese during the war.
After the war it became an important strategic centre for
the atomic experiments on the Montebello Islands.
The Montebello Islands, located to the north west of
the town were named after the Duc de Montebello by the French explorer
Nicholas Baudin.
As early as 1622 a rocky outcrop to the west of the
main island group was the scene of a major shipping disaster when the
British vessel Tryal was wrecked with the loss of 97 lives. 46
survivors managed to sail a small boat north to Batavia.
In the late nineteenth century the islands were
visited by the pearling fleets which scoured the coastline looking for
new pearl beds.
Fame, or perhaps, infamy reached the islands in 1952
when they were chosen as the first site for a series of British atomic
bomb tests. Between 1952 and 1956 (when the tests were moved to
Maralinga in SA) a number of atomic bombs were exploded on the islands.
Access to the Montebello Islands is still restricted.
This is not the case with Barrow Island which is now a major location
for offshore oil drilling.
Barrow Island is a reminder of the early history of
the Pilbara coast. It was recorded on a Dutch East India company map as
early as 1628, was visited by Abel Tasman in 1644, explored by Phillip
Parker King in 1818 and named after John Barrow, a secretary of the
British Admiralty.
In the 1960s the development of oil on and near
Barrow Island raised environmental concerns. The island boasts a series
of unique fauna species. As such it is recognised as a fine example of
island biogeography (the term refers to the way fauna and flora develop
in a unique geographical location) and is consequently of worldwide
scientific importance. Although the island had been declared a reserve
in 1908, petroleum exploration began in 1963 with production starting
in 1967. Recognising the potential problem ChevronTexaco Australia have
worked hard to protect the island's unique biodiversity.
Today the company's environmental management
plan includes strict quarantine procedures to prevent the introduction
of animals, weeds and wildlife diseases. The Island maintains its
status as a Class A Nature Reserve and boasts a number of unique fauna
species including the Barrow Island Euro, Barrow Island Bandicoot, the
Black and white Wren and a number of wallabies, marsupial mice and possums.
Australia's largest and oldest continuously operating
onshore oilfield on Barrow has won national and international
recognition as a leading example of industry working in harmony with
the environment.
Since the 1960s Barrow Island has been an
important supplier of Australia's oil and gas requirements.
Things to see:
Ruins of the Old Town
The ruins of the old town can still be seen. They are
located 45 km by road from Onslow with the turnoff being 20 km south of
Onslow on the main access road to the town. When the old town was
re-sited all potentially portable buildings were moved. Only the old
stone and cement buildings like the post office, police station, gaol
and hospital remain. The fact that the town was moved so recently means
that the observant visitor will find many relics of the past scattered
around the lonely settlement.
Mackerel Islands
22 km offshore are the Mackerel Islands which are
noted for their sport fishing and bottom fishing, as well as scuba
diving and snorkelling. Holiday accommodation is available on Thevenard
Island in beach-front cabins that sleep up to 10 people, as well as
Club Thevenard accommodation village, which offers twin and double
rooms. Direction Island has just one solitary beach cabin, allowing
vistors to have the island to themselves. Both offer excellent diving,
fishing and snorkelling opportunities. Phone (08) 9184 6444, email:
bookings@mackerelisland.com.au http://www.mackerelisland.com.au
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Motels
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Onslow Mackerel Motel
Cnr Second Ave & Third St
P.O. Box 141
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6444
Facsimile: (08) 9184 6400
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Hotels
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Beadon Bay Hotel
Second Ave
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6002
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Lodges & Chalets
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Onslow Sun Chalets
Second Ave
P.O. Box 156
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6058
Rating: ***
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Caravan Parks
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Beadon Bay Village
Second Ave
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6007
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Ocean View Caravan Park
Second Ave
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6053
Rating: **
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Restaurants
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Nikki's Licensed Restaurant
336 First Ave
Onslow
WA
6710
Telephone: (08) 9184 6121
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