Hopetoun
Quiet and attractive seaside village
Located 588 km south of Perth and 50 km from
Ravensthorpe, Hopetoun is a small and attractive seaside village
located on the shores of Mary Ann Harbour (it was originally known as
Mary Ann Haven or Harbour) which is becoming increasingly popular as a
low key get-away-from-it-all tourist destination.
The first Europeans to make contact with the area
were Matthew Flinders who, in 1802, sailed the Investigator along the
coast charting its beaches and rugged cliffs as he went.
By the 1820s the whalers and sealers from Van Diemen's
Land, who hunted in the southern ocean, knew of the shelter which the
Hopetoun area offered. It is thought that one sealer named Thomas
settled in the area and named Mary Ann Haven after his daughter.
In 1841 Edward John Eyre passed through the area
having been revitalised at Thistle Cove (near Esperance) after
traversing the Nullarbor Plain. Eyre and his Aboriginal companion Wylie
made the journey from Thistle Cove to Albany in late June, 1841.
Eyre must have passed very close to the present site of
Hopetoun. His journals record that he spent a night at the Jerdacuttup
Lakes east of Hopetoun and the following night was camped by 'the
Lake', Culham Inlet.
Eyre was critical of the whole area. After nearly dying
of thirst while crossing the Nullarbor he was now confronted with
almost continuous rain. This probably accounted for his description of
Mt Barren in the Fitzgerald River National Park as 'Most properly had
it been called Mt Barren, for a more wretched arid looking country
never existed than that around it.' It is hard to imagine Eyre making
this observation having just crossed the Nullarbor Plain.
The area was settled in the late 1860s by the Dunn
brothers. It is thought that John Dunn became interested in the area
when he became temporarily marooned while sealing off the coast of Mary
Anne Harbour. Dunn moved into the area in 1868 and spent 'the first
three years clearing scrub, building sheep yards and preparing for
permanent occupation' on a piece of land he would name 'Cocanarup'.
While he was clearing the land John Dunn was visited by the explorer
John Forrest. Dunn accompanied Forrest's expedition south towards Mary
Ann Haven. Forrest, who was prone to leaving his name all over the
countryside, carved his initials in a tree on the banks a the Phillips
River. A memorial cairn to the expedition is located 6 km along Forrest
Road which runs west from Hopetoun Road 10 km north of the town.
In 1871 John Dunn took three months to overland some
sheep from Albany with his brother George. He was formally granted 4049
ha on 1 January 1873. John Dunn was killed by local Aborigines in 1880.
His grave is located on Cocanarup Road which runs off the South Coast
Highway west of Ravensthorpe.
The real development of Hopetoun occurred when
gold and copper were discovered by James Dunn at Phillips River
Goldfields near Ravensthorpe in 1898.
At the time, as the history of the area Ravensthorpe -
Then and Now, reports 'the roads or tracks from either Albany in the
west or Esperance in the east were unformed and so the way from Perth
to this mining area was to Albany by train thence to Hopetoun by sea
and up the thirty miles to Ravensthorpe by coach. That of course, would
be Cobb and Co. with four horses in hand.'
As a result of the gold and copper discoveries the town
was surveyed (1900) and its name was changed from Mary Anne Harbour to
Hopetoun (in honour of Australia's first Governor General, Lord
Hopetoun). It became the port for the goldfields. A jetty was built in
1901 and that year a gold battery was shipped through the port.
The importance of the port was short lived. The railway which
connected Ravensthorpe and Hopetoun in 1901 was closed in 1925
(remnants of the line can still be seen beside the
HopetounRavensthorpe road) and the port which had been so
important was effectively closed in 1936. Prosperity which had
developed the town now deserted it and it became a sleepy little
backwater. The jetty, which began to deteriorate in the 1960s was
finally destroyed in 1983.
In recent times tourism in the area has grown and it is
likely to continue as increasing numbers of whales, seals and dolphins
come to the offshore waters and the beaches and headlands in the area
remain largely untouched.
It is impossible to overstate the beauty of this area. Many
people consider this stretch of coastline the most beautiful in
Australia. It is an area of impossibly white sand beaches and gently
rounded rocky foreshores.
The Hopetoun Summer Festival is held in January.
Things to see:
Beaches
Hopetoun's most obvious attraction is its
beaches. To the east of town are Starvation Bay and Powell Point where
visitors will find a boat ramp, camping facilities, toilets and
barbecues and can enjoy surfing and swimming. There is no fresh water.
Munglinup Beach offers the same range of facilities except there is no
boat ramp. However, there is fresh water and a caravan park is located
2 km from the beach, next to Oldfield River. Mason Bay offers camping,
barbecues and toilets but no fresh water. Twelve Mile Beach has only
toilets but it is a good spot for fishing with a reef located 13 km
offshore. Five Mile Beach, too, has toilets and fishing but no fresh
water.
To the west of Hopetoun are West Beach, which has toilets,
and Four Mile Beach which offers free gas barbecues, toilets, walks,
fishing and whale watching (in season). Further west id Fitzgerald
River National Park which has plenty more beaches.
Fitzgerald River National Park
Apart from the beautiful beaches and the excellent
fishing, the major attraction in the area is Fitzgerald River National
Park, a huge 330,000-ha strip of the coastline between Hopetoun and
Bremer Bay. It is, by any measure, a superb park of rivers, dramatic
gorges, spongelite cliffs along the Hamersley and Fitzgerald River
valleys, wide sand plains, isolated mountains, rugged cliffs, pebbly
beaches and spectacular displays of wildflowers between August and
November. Activities include sightseeing, walking, photography,
camping, canoeing and fishing. During the winter months, southern right
whales can be seen from the cliffs at Point Ann.
CALM have put out a brochure titled Fitzgerald River and
Frank Hann National Parks which provides detailed information on the
roads in the park, a useful map, information about camping (there are
no facilities), fishing and bushwalking.
A very detailed study of the park, A Park in
Perspective, has been commissioned by the Fitzgerald River National
Park Association and written by Keith Bradby. It provides information
on the geology, geomorphology, climate, vegetation and history of the park.
In the Introduction Bradby sums up the appeal of the
park when he writes: 'The park sits astride the incised valleys of four
major river systems, which flow south-east to the coast. Dominating the
southern section is a low range of rugged quartzite hills known
collectively as The Barrens, while the core of the park is an extensive
undulating plain...The flora of the park is exceptionally rich and
diverse. Although the Park is only 0.2 per cent of Western Australia's
land surface, over 20 per cent of Western Australia's plant species
occur there. Many of the plant species are endemic to the region,
reflecting the tight and varied plant/soil mosaics. Vegetation varies,
from woodland on the richer soils through to mallee and mallee heath.
'There are more recorded species of birds, mammals and
frogs than in any other reserve in south-west Australia. This is partly
a reflection of the park size, but also because of the blending of wet
country and dry country species which occur in the park.' In fact,
there are 209 bird species and over 1800 recorded plant species,
including 81 orchid types. 62 plant species are unique to the park,
including the brightly-coloured royal hakea. Some of the park's flora,
such as the showy banksia, is notable for unusual and striking
leaf-shapes. 18 native mammals are known to inhabit the park, including
the rare dibbler and the heath rat; both, at one time, thought to be
extinct. Threatened species, such as the woylie, the tammar wallaby and
the ground parrot, mostly inhabit the heaths and mallee in the north of
the park, which preserves an example of the vegetaion once typical of
the wheatbelt before clearing occurred.
There is a walkway to the top of East Mount Barren
Lookout which affords fine views of the area. The trek takes two to
three hours return. Beaches along the coast include Barrens Beach and
East Mylies Beach (both good for walking, fishing and whale watching),
West Beach (good for surfing but with no facilities), Whalebone Beach
(for remote backpack camping), Quoin Head (accessible by 4WD only with
free gas barbecues, toilets, bushwalking, camping and fishing), and
Hamersley Inlet, which has two campsites, toilets, bushwalking and
fishing opportunities.
The Royal Automobile Club of Western Australia
has an excellent map of Bremer Bay-Hopetoun which, apart from providing
a useful description of all the attractions in the area, has detailed
information on the tracks and 4WD roads through the Fitzgerald River
National Park. It can be obtained from the RAC in Albany or from the
head office at 228 Adelaide Terrace, Perth.
Culham Inlet
This inlet, not far west of Hopetoun, is the landlocked
estuary of the Steere and Phillips Rivers. This is a good spot for a
bushwalk when the wildflowers are blooming in spring. For further
information ring the Esperance Information Centre on (08) 9071 2330.
Blue Mallee Wildflowers
Located 2.5 km from town at 41 Whale Drive (via
Hammersley Drive), Blue Mallee Wildflowers offers visitors a chance to
examine local native wildflowers, as well as a collection of old
shells, bottles and other relics. It also sells native seeds and is
open weekdays between July and November from 9.00 a.m. to midday and
from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (08) 9838 3389.
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Motels
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Hopetoun Motel Village
Lot 458 Veal St
Hopetoun
WA
6348
Telephone: (08) 9838 3219
Rating: **
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Hotels
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Port Hotel
Veal St
Hopetoun
WA
6348
Telephone: (08) 9838 3053
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Lodges & Chalets
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Hopetoun Chalet Village
Lot 458 Veal St
Hopetoun
WA
6348
Telephone: (08) 9838 3219
Rating: ****
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Caravan Parks
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Hopetoun Caravan Park
Spence St
Hopetoun
WA
6348
Telephone: (08) 9838 3096
Rating: **
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Restaurants
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Port Hotel
Veal St
Hopetoun
WA
6348
Telephone: (08) 9838 3053
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