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The old Bank of Victoria
building now the Wahgunyah Post
Office
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Wahgunyah
A
small town on the Murray River.
Wahgunyah is a small Murray River town of some 500
people located 272 km north-east of Melbourne via Wangaratta which is 39 km to the
south-west. As the river forms a substantial portion of the state
border Corowa, just 2 km away on the
other side of the river, is part of New South Wales. The main employer
in town is the Uncle Toby's Factory although there are also four
wineries in the vicinity.
The land around Wahgunyah was once occupied by the
Whroo people, a subgroup of the Bangerang tribe. Charles Sturt explored
the Murray River area in 1829-30 and, in 1838, led a droving party with
300 head of cattle through the district, en route to South Australia.
It was also in 1838 that the party of John Foord set off from Yass with
1000 head of cattle, in search of fresh grazing land. Consequently,
Foord and three business partners took up the 30 000-acre run known as
'Wahgunyah' (said to mean 'big camp') on the southern side of the
river.
Their economic endeavours proved a success and were further
enhanced by the opening up of the Victorian markets when river steamers
appeared on the Murray in the early 1850s. At the same time gold was
discovered at Beechworth and
prospective diggers began flooding southwards over the river. Foord
clearly saw an opportunity in the timing of these two developments. He
purchased a punt, bought a steamship, built a flour mill, subdivided
his holdings and established the private township of Wahgunyah to serve
as the supply base between the river trade and the goldfields. He was
also involved in the building of bond stores and hotels in the
fledgling township. Settlers were encouraged to grow wheat for Foord's
mill, as there was a ready market for local crops, and the township
prospered as a river port, a trade depot and an important site for
stock and passenger crossings. Many of the streets were named after
members of the Foord family.
Gold was discovered on Foord's property, to the south
of Wahgunyah, in 1858, leading to a major but short-lived goldrush.
Initially known as Wahgunyah Rush, this became the town of Rutherglen.
The growing traffic
of goods and people soon led to the accretion of a settlement on the
northern bank. Foord purchased this land from the NSW government, had
it surveyed and laid out in 1859 as North Wahgunyah, later renamed
Corowa, although it was the southern settlement that initially
prospered.
A privately-licensed toll bridge, made of local red gum, was
erected across the Murray in 1862 by a company, in which Foord was the
major shareholder, in order to facilitate the passage of the diggers
south and of Riverina grain and timber to Foord's own mills. Not
surprisingly, the presence of the timber in the context of a river town
led to a substantial boat-building industry. The first winery in the
district was established in 1851. St Leonard's Winery and All Saints
Estate were both started in the 1860s and both are still in operation.
At its peak Wahgunyah had seven hotels and was the busiest
Murray port upstream of Echuca. A
considerable number of Chinese took up residence in the town and
district during the gold days.
The furore of the gold days dissipated after the initial
rushes and the river trade began to decline in the 1880s due to the
development of the railway system, its extension to other Murray River
towns, the unreliability of water levels, the lack of a national
strategy for the interstate river trade and improvements in road transport.
Resentment over customs duties among the townships
which faced each other across the Murray (and thus the state border)
was intense. Local irritation played a crucial role in the lead-up to
Federation (see entry on Corowa).
Things to see:
Tourist Information
Rutherglen Visitor Information Centre can be
called on (02) 6032 9166 or free-call (1800) 622 871.
The Murray
Rowing, canoeing, fishing, waterskiing and boating are
popular along the Murray. Some of the local motels and caravan parks
even have their own boat ramps. There are walking tracks at various
points along the southern riverbank. From All Saints Estate you can
walk north via Granthams Bend to St Leonards where there are fireplaces
and tables. Up River Road extends east from All Saints Estate, past the
Carlyle Comunity Hall (once Carlyle School) to a turnoff on the left
(5.5 km from All Saints Estate) which leads to Shaws Flats where there
is a walking trail, together with fireplaces, tables and camping
opportunities. 2 km further east along Up River Rd is another turnoff
on the left to Police Paddocks where, once again, there is a walking
trail, together with fireplaces, tables and camping opportunities.
Stantons Bend is to the west of town.
The Wahgunyah Collection
The Wahgunyah Collection is located at the
entrance to John Foord Bridge over the Murray River. It is essentially
an outdoor display of photographs relating to the history of the town.
They are behind glass and under an awning.
Historic Buildings of Foord St
Opposite the Wahgunyah Collection, at the corner of Mill
and Foord Sts, is Customs House (1886), a single-storey building with
polychrome brickwork, round-arched windows and iron finials atop the
slate roof. Restored to original condition, it is a material reminder
of the days when the town was a busy and important river port.
The old two-storey Wahgunyah post office and residence (1863)
is now a private domicile. The wooden shop adjacent was once a Coffee
Palace, one of a chain of temperance hotels throughout Victoria. The
present post office began its life as the Bank of Victoria.
The Empire Hotel (1861) once dispatched coaches to
the goldfields twice daily and Feathers and Fin, opposite Mrs Mouse's
Tea House, was originally the Wahgunyah Hotel which was built by town
founder John Foord in 1861. It was also the booking office for Cobb &
Co coaches which ran daily to Melbourne.
The Mass Tree
It was under the Mass Tree, a red gum in Short St, that
Wahgunyah's first Catholic service was held in a tent in 1869.
All Saints Estate
All Saints Estate was established in 1864, making it
one of the state's oldest wineries. It is located 4 km north-east of
town on All Saints Rd (turn left off the Rutherglen Rd 1 km out of
Wahgunyah). A wide range of grape types, red and white, are grown with
fortified wines a speciality. The cellar door is open from 9.00 a.m. to
5.00 p.m. every day but Sunday when it opens at 10.00 a.m., tel: (02)
6035 2222 There are picnic, barbecue and children's play facilities and
the Terrace Restaurant serves morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea
every day, tel: (02) 6033 1922.
George Smith, the estate's first proprietor, became the
first Australian to win an international gold medal for wine, at Vienna
in 1873. The main building, classified by the National Trust, dates
from 1878 and is modeled on the Castle of Mey in Scotland. It consists
of a series of extensive above-ground cellars, containing large timber
vats (thought to be the largest oak wine storage in the country),
surrounded by castellated brick walls with a square corner tower.
The Winemakers Hall of Fame is based in the old bottling hall
and has a display on the history of winemaking in the region. There is
a display relating to each winery of north-east Victoria with related
vintages and photographs.
The heavy presence of Chinese settlers from the gold days is
commemorated in the form of a substantial Chinese dormitory (1869)
which was used as living and eating quarters for the Chinese vineyard
workers.
The Rutherglen Keg Factory is located in the grounds of the
estate. There you can watch a cooper plying his trade in the
traditional manner from Wednesday to Sunday. He constructs and sells
hand-crafted kegs which are made from old wine barrels, tel: (02) 6033 4343.
From All Saints Estate you can walk north via Granthams
Bend to St Leonards where there are fireplaces and tables.
St Leonard's Winery
St Leonards Winery, established in 1862, is located
along St Leonards Rd (which heads off All Saints Rd just north of All
Saints Estate), 6 km north east of Wahgunyah. It is named after the
Scottish birthplace of the original owner and now belongs to the Brown
Brothers of Milawa, as does All Saints.
The cellars are well over a century old.
Fortified wines and quality table wines are the focus of
present production and the winery is currently open from Thursday to
Sunday from 11.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. There is a picnic-barbecue area
with children's play facilities and Le Bistro is open weekends from
11.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. (bookings are essential). Ring (02) 6033 1004.
Cofield Wines
Cofield Wines, a small family operation established in
1990, produces red and white table wines as well as traditionally
manufactured red and white sparkling wines. It is located 1 km south of
town on Distillery Rd and displays a collection of carefully restored
oil engines. They are open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. except on
Sundays when they open at 10.00 a.m. There are undercover picnic
facilities and a cafe, which is open every day but Tuesday, tel: (02)
6033 3798.
Pioneer Cemetery
A few metres past Cofield's is a turnoff to the
Pioneer Cemetery (1859-86) where town founder John Foord and his family
are interred. There is an information board at the site.
Pfeiffer Wines
Further along Distillery Rd are Pfeiffer Wines, a small
family enterprise established in 1984. The tasting rooms are situated
within the old brick distillery after which the road is named. There
are picnic and barbecue facilities and gourmet picnic hampers can be
arranged with prior notice. There are walking trails which lead along
Sunday Creek and to the Murray River, tel: (02) 6033 2805.
Carlyle Cemetery
Just past Pfeiffer's there is a 90-degree bend where
the road heads off to the right. Just along here is the Carlyle
cemetery (commenced in 1865) where there are Chinese burning towers
from the goldrush era. There is an information board at the site.
Just to the south-west is Lake Moodemere (see entry on Rutherglen).
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Motels
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Motel Riverside Wahgunyah
Short St
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1608
Rating: ***
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Wahgunyah Motel
59 Victoria St
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1322
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Hotels
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Empire Hotel
Foord St
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1094
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Restaurants
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Le Bistro At St Leonards
St Leonards Rd
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1004
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Mrs Mouse's Teahouse
Foord St
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1102
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The Terrace Restaurant
All Saints Rd
Wahgunyah
VIC
3687
Telephone: (02) 6033 1922
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