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The race track at Perlubie
Beach, near Streaky Bay
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Streaky Bay
(including Haslam, Perlubie Beach and Point Labatt)
Tiny town surrounded by beautiful and
fascinating coastline
Streaky Bay, which is located 727 km from Adelaide
and 303 km from Port Lincoln, is really nothing more than a tiny,
rather unimportant town on the edge of the only safe deepwater harbour
between Port Lincoln and King George Sound in Western Australia. While
the town is pleasant, and has a slightly Mediterranean feel, its real
attraction is that it is surrounded by some of the most fascinating
coastal sites and scenery which the Eyre Peninsula can offer. The old
water collector at Haslam, the beach racetrack at Perlubie Beach, the
beautiful Smooth Pool on the Westall Way Scenic Drive and the seals
lying in the sun on the rocks below Point Labatt make the charms of the
township of Streaky Bay seem rather limited and uninviting.
The history of European exploration of the Streaky
Bay area starts with the Dutch sailors who accompanied Pieter Nuyts on
his 1627 voyage across the Great Australian Bight. Nuyts reached the
South Australian coast near Streaky Bay before turning westward and
heading to the Dutch East Indies. His visit to the area is recalled on
the Pieter Nuyts Monument in the median strip on Bay Road near the
Community Hotel.
Nuyts was followed, nearly two centuries later, by
Matthew Flinders who in 1802 explored the entire coast of the Eyre
Peninsula. It is widely accepted that Flinders named the bay because of
the streaky discolouration he noticed in the water. The discolouration
was probably nothing more than seaweed.
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The sand dunes to the south
of Smooth Pool near Streaky Bay
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In 1839 the explorer
Edward John Eyre passed through the area. His journey is recalled in
Eyre's Water Hole which is located about 3 km out of Streaky Bay on the
road to Port Kenny. A sign at the rather neat and modern water hole
points out that 'At this spot, Baxter, after crossing the peninsula
from Port Augusta waited in dire anxiety to rejoin his leader, Edward
John Eyre, who had ridden from Mount Arden via Port Lincoln.'
Around this time two potential settlers travelled
through the area and their report on the lack of water, poor soils and
thick mallee scrub did much to discourage settlement of the region.
The area was slowly settled in the second half of the
nineteenth century. Pastoralists had settled the area by 1854, by the
late 1850s whaling was common along the coast, and in the early 1870s
the oyster beds in the area were being harvested so successfully that a
small oyster factory was established at Streaky Bay.
The township of Streaky Bay was officially proclaimed in
1872. At the time it was called Flinders but the older name of Streaky
Bay persisted. There had been a slow settlement of the area during the
previous decade. The first trading store had been built in 1862 and the
Hospital Cottage, which still stands in the Hospital grounds, was built
in 1864.
Things to see:
Streaky Bay Museum
In Montgomerie St (which is two blocks south of the
harbour foreshore) is the Streaky Bay Museum. It is open every Friday
from 2.00 p.m. - 4.00 p.m. or by appointment with Alec Baldock on (08)
8626 1142. It's in the Old School Building and is run by the National
Trust. Exhibits at the museum include displays of Aboriginal artefacts,
birds eggs, shells, old furniture, medical equipment and early
agricultural machinery. It is a typical folk museum with lots of
interesting memorabilia about the local region.
In the grounds is the restored Kelsh Pioneer Cottage
which was built of pug and pine in 1886. It still has furniture and
domestic utensils dating from the late nineteenth century.
Haslam
To the north of Streaky
Bay lies the tiny, almost inconsequential settlement, of Haslam. It is
easy to pass but well worth visiting for it is at Haslam that one of
the few corrugated iron water collectors can still be seen. On the side
of the road on the edge of town is the corrugated iron water collector
which was constructed by the South Australian Government in 1917. Apart
from that Haslam is an unimpressive little town with a jetty, a picnic
area, toilets, and an attractive beach for swimming and fishing.
Only a few metres away from the water collector is a sign to
the Haslam School and Agricultural Museum which is open between 2.00
p.m - 4.00 p.m. on a Sunday or by appointment.
Perlubie Beach
Further down the coast (only 20 km north of Streaky
Bay) is Perlubie Beach which has become famous on the Eyre Peninsula
for its unique New Years Sports Day on the beach. The race meeting was
originally a 1600 m event along the beach at low tide for horses. It
had been run since 1914 and for years it was a remarkable sight to see
the stands and saddling enclosures, all weathered by the sea, standing
forlornly waiting for the next race meeting. Needless to say stories
about the race meetings are legend with such hilarious practices as
filling a jockey's pockets up with sand to get him up to correct
handicap weight. Today it is a friendly family day with a 1600m foot
race along the beach, a swimming competition, a tug-o-war, netball
throwing and stump throwing among other fun family activities.
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The Smooth Pool south of
Streaky Bay
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Westall Way Scenic
Drive and the Point Labatt Conservation Park
To the south of the town is a truly beautiful stretch of
coastline which includes the superb Westall Way Scenic Drive and the
Point Labatt Conservation Park.
The road around the coast is a delight. There are
dramatic cliffs, pleasant bays and inlets and headlands and rocky
outcrops which can be explored. There is High Cliff, the Granites, some
large red smooth rocks which lie below a lookout, the Smooth Pool which
is reputed to be an excellent fishing spot, the huge white sand dunes
which lie to the south of Smooth Pool, and Sceales Bay, a classic
holiday place for people who love being isolated, where there is a boat
ramp and a small camping area. Further south is Baird Bay and Point Labatt.
To stand on the cliffs at Point Labatt is to
experience one of the highlights of any visit to the Eyre Peninsula.
The area is strikingly beautiful and there is a real sense of standing
on the edge of the world gazing across waters which stretch out across
the Great Australian Bight and down into the cold Southern Ocean. But
this is only a small part of the appeal because Point Labatt is where
the only permanent mainland colony of Australian sea lions (Neophoca
cinerea) live. There is an estimated population of about 35-50 seals at
the Point and to add to the appeal of the area there is a whale watch
between June and October. Notices on the clifftop point out that this
is an area where the whales breed. As well there is a notice covering
the history of the area: 'Point Labatt Conservation Park. Matthew
Flinders, in the Investigator, was the first European to explore, map
and name this coastline for England in 1802. About the same time
Nicholas Baudin in Le Geographe charted this coast for France. This
reserve protects the only permanent sea lion colony on the Australian
mainland. The Marine Reserve off shore ensures minimum disturbance to
the seals and the reef fish upon which they depend for food. This area
was declared a Conservation Park in 1973.'
There is another seal colony off the coast of South Australia
at Seal Bay on Kangaroo Island. The seals grow to 4 metres in length
and can weigh as much as 200 kg. From the lookout, especially if you
don't have binoculars, they look like slugs on the rocks below.
Normally docile they can be surprisingly agile and aggressive
particularly during the breeding season.
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Murphy's Haystack
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Murphy's Haystacks
The road from Point Labatt back to the Flinders
Highway (good local maps of the dirt roads are available in either the
Streaky Bay Tourist Book or the Discover Streaky Bay brochure - both
are readily available in the town) passes the fascinating granite
outcrops known as Murphy's Haystacks. It is difficult to see the
outcrops from the road and people wishing to visit them should get
specific directions in Streaky Bay. The 'haystacks' (some of them
really do look like old fashioned haystacks) are a series of
dramatically weathered granite outcrops which are possibly as much as
1500 million years old. They were named after Dennis Murphy, the
property owner, by the local mail coach driver who used to point them
out to passengers during the trip from Streaky Bay to Port Kenny.
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Motels
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Streaky Bay Motel
7 Alfred Tce
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1126
Facsimile: (08) 8626 1126
Rating: **1/2
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Streaky Bay Motel/Hotel
33 Alfred Tce
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1008
Facsimile: (08) 8626 1630
Rating: ***
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Hotels
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Streaky Bay Motel/Hotel
33 Alfred Tce
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1008
Facsimile: (08) 8626 1630
Rating: ***
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Headland House Bed & Breakfast
5 Flinders Dve
P.O. Box 13
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1315
Rating: ****
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Cottages & Cabins
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Mulganyah Cottage
Poochera Rd
P.O. Box 76
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1236
Rating: **
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Caravan Parks
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Sceale Bay Caravan Park
Government Rd
P.O. Box 3
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 5099
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Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park
Wells St
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1666
Rating: ***
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Camping & Other
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Streaky Bay Foremost Holiday Accommodation
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8632 3209
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Restaurants
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Edward John Eyre Restaurant
Alfred Tce
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1126
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Streaky Bay Motel/Hotel
33 Alfred Tce
Streaky Bay
SA
5680
Telephone: (08) 8626 1008
Facsimile: (08) 8626 1630
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