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The jetty at Port MacDonnell
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Port MacDonnell
Attractive historic port on the far south coast
Located 467 km south east of Adelaide, Port Macdonnell
is the southernmost town in South Australia. It is surrounded by
interesting coastline and parklands. Nearby is the cottage at Dingley
Dell where Adam Lindsay Gordon, one of Australia's most famous 19th
century poets, lived.
Prior to European settlement the area was the home to
the Bungandidj Aborigines who lived largely on the produce from the
sea. Like Mount Gambier, which is only 28 km inland, Port MacDonnell
was first sighted by a European when Lieutenant James Grant, sailing
the HMS Lady Nelson down the coast on 3 December 1800, observed the
coastline. It was at this time that he named Cape Northumberland and
Mount Gambier.
Like many places in South Australia the name,
MacDonnell, comes from Sir Richard Graves MacDonnell who was the
Governor of South Australia from 1855-1862. The town was officially
became a port on 4 April 1860. For the next twenty years, servicing the
local district, it gained a reputation as one of the state's busiest
ports (second only to Port Adelaide) shipping the wheat and wool from
the local area around the world. Clippers arrived to carry the wheat
and wool to England. In the 1880s the port became so important that the
jetty was extended so it reached 1700 feet into the harbour.
Port MacDonnell would be much more important today if
it had become the major rail centre on the south-east coast but the
rail went to Beachport and it declined. Today Port MacDonnell is famous
for its lobsters. It has South Australia's largest lobster fishing fleet.
Things to see:
Public Buildings Complex
The Port MacDonnell police station, courthouse,
telegraph station and customs house complex was completed between
1862-75 and stands on the corner Standish St & the Parade. The
buildings were made of stone with slate roofs and were built by F.
Reynolds of Port Adelaide.
Port MacDonnell & District Maritime Museum
Located in Meylin Street, the Port MacDonnell &
District Maritime Museum has been open since January 1990. It is
constantly being expanded with new artefacts from the local area. The
people who open the museum are a source of information about the
district. The museum has been assiduous in collecting information about
the local area and write of the Wagon tracks to the west of the township.
Wagon Tracks
'Although good building stone was available an edict
of the colonial government was to the effect that no stone should be
raised for building purposes. The carting of stone from the beaches was
also under a ban but these laws were later rescinded. Large quarries of
limestone were opened up at the west end of the township and stone
buildings went on apace. Bullock teams carted huge loads of flat beach
flints along the low rocky shores to the west of the town and the wheel
ruts of these bullock wagons are still to be seen scarring the
limestone flats at low water. When the tides are low these wheel tracks
are plainly visible filled with water and provide a hiding place for
crabs, mussels and anemones.
Victoria Hotel
Located at 40 Meylin Street, this hotel gained some
fame in the 1860s when it became the stopping point at the end of the
coach trip from Adelaide. The journey took three days so the passengers
were very grateful to see the Victoria Hotel come into view.
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Dingley Dell, the cottage of
Adam Lindsay Gordon
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Dingley Dell
In 'South East Sketchbook' the journalist Max Lamshed, who
was born in Mount Gambier, wrote of Dingley Dell: 'Adam Lindsay Gordon,
the romantic poet, spent some of his happiest and most fruitful years
at Dingley Dell. It stood in open scrubland which wattle splashed with
springtime gold; where the music of wattle bird, magpie and thrush was
never far away, and the growl of the sea came muted from the rocks of
Cape Northumberland.
'He took his young bride, the gentle and
understanding Maggie Park, to live there, and they were a familiar
sight in nearby Port McDonnell (sic). He tall, long striding, with open
neck shirt and cord riding pants, dark felt hat with long puggaree; she
slight, dainty treading, holding her partner by the shirt pocket to
give him a check.'
Dingley Dell was the home of Adam Lindsay Gordon from
1864 to 1867. There is a legend that Gordon won the cottage in a card
game from its owner George Randall. It is open every day in the school
holidays from 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. It is 2 kms out of Port MacDonnell
and is clearly signposted from a number of points around the town. Each
of the rooms has been recreated.
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Cape Northumberland looking
back towards Port MacDonnell
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Cape Northumberland
As you drive out to Cape Northumberland you
will notice some rocky formations which the locals refer to as the
petrified forest. They are a series of strange rocky outcrops. Cape
Northumberland is fascinating and well worth a visit.
Veronica Jenkins from the Port MacDonnell & District Maritime
Museum writes of the cape and its lighthouse: 'The first lighthouse was
approved in 1856 and completed in July 1857 at a cost of £1837. It
was built on an extremely exposed part of the coast, with cliffs
falling a hundred feet to the sea on either side of the narrow piece of
land on which it was built. It was necessary later to erect a stone
wall around the buildings to make it safer for the keepers of the
lighthouse. By 1880 this lighthouse was considered unsafe. The rocky
area on which it had been built was very friable, and so tenders were
called for a new lighthouse. It was operating for the first time in
April 1882. Originally there were three stone cottages built near the
lighthouse but these were replaced in 1909 by three wooden cottages,
two of which still stand near the lighthouse. The stone cottages were
removed in 1919.
'Very little remains of the first lighthouse however a
stone seat has been placed on the site. It carries a plaque honouring
the memory of Captain Ben Germein. He was the first keeper. He also
surveyed the harbour, selected the site for the port to serve the
district and was involved in rescue attempts for many of the shipwrecks
along the coast including the famous Admella and John Ormerod.
'The Petrified Forest has been tested and evidently
has been found not to be petrified wood although the locals still know
it as the Petrified Forest. Frog Rock, just like Rhino Rock and
Captains Head Rock, is believed to be named because they look like a
frog, rhino and captain's head. Captains Head is no longer recognisable
as the years have eroded its character.'
The area is well worth visiting but, as a study of
desecration of natural beauty it would be hard to beat the shute where
the shells of crayfish and lobsters are disposed of. It is right in the
middle of the view at the Cape. The shapes which the sea has eroded out
of the rocks are very spectacular and unusual.
Mount Schank
Lieutenant Grant named this fascinating remnant
volcano at the time he named Mount Gambier. It was named after a
friend, Captain Schank. There is a track which leads to the top and it
is possible to descend into the crater of the extinct volcano. The walk
from the Car Park to the top and around the edges of the old volcano is
estimated as being of moderate difficulty and should take about 2 1/2
hours. Get directions from the Tourist Information Centre or take the
road to Mount Gambier. It is 10 km north of Port MacDonnell.
Piccaninnie Ponds
Located along the coast and reaching the Victorian
border this is a large reed swamp with subterranean springs which has a
reputation as one of Australia's best cave diving destinations. The
caves are actually sinkholes and require considerable skill. The main
sinkhole, Piccaninnie Pond, can be dived but a permit is needed from
the National Parks and Wildlife Service in Mount Gambier.
Ewens Ponds Conservation Park
Located 6 km north east of Port MacDonnell this is an
important and interesting wetland habitat characterised by dense
stringybark, blackwood, Christmas bush and a range of interesting
orchids. It is also an area of sinkholes which are popular with divers.
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Motels
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Seaview Motel
77 Sea Pde
P.O. Box 249
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2243
Rating: **
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Hotels
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Victoria Hotel
40 Meylin St
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2213
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Apartments
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Seaview Holiday Apts
77 Sea Pde
P.O. Box 249
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2243
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Caravan Parks
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Port MacDonnell Harbour View Caravan Park
59 Sea Pde
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2085
Rating: **
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Woolwash Caravan Park
Sea Pde
P.O. Box 207
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2095 or (08) 8725 8116
Rating: **
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Cafés
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Malibu Cafe
Cnr Bay Rd & Meylin St
Port MacDonnell
SA
5291
Telephone: (08) 8738 2409
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