The Moonta Railway Station

Moonta (including Port Hughes and Moonta Bay)
Historically significant copper town
Located 165 km northwest of Adelaide and 20 m above sea level, Moonta promotes itself as 'Australiašs Little Cornwall'. It is part of the region known as the 'Copper Triangle' which includes the towns of Kadina and Wallaroo.

When Matthew Flinders passed along the coast near the present day site of Moonta in 1802 the region was inhabited by the Narrungga Aborigines. Moonta takes its name from an Aboriginal word, either 'moontera' or 'moonta moontera' which has commonly been translated to mean 'place of impenetrable scrub'. This was a perfectly reasonable description because the mallee scrub was 'impenetrable' when the first settlers moved into the area in the 1830s.

Copper was discovered at Moonta in 1861. The story is that the copper deposits at both Wallaroo and Moonta were found by shepherds working on the large sheep run owned by Walter Watson Hughes. In the case of Moonta the shepherd's name was Patrick ('Paddy') Ryan. His name is still celebrated in Ryan's Pumping Station which was named after him. It is said that Ryan found the copper in a wombat hole although it is true that Hughes was aware, from the colour of the local rocks, that there was copper in the district.

The richness of the local copper deposits was such that Hughes needed no capital to start the Moonta mine. The lodes were rich and the mine prospered. A history of the mine written in 1914 records that 'The Moonta Company during its existence produced £5,396,146 worth of copper, and distributed £1,168,000 among shareholders. It had the distinction of being the first mining company in Australia to pay over £1,000,000 in dividends.' This event occurred in 1876. At its peak Moonta concentrates averaged 20 per cent copper. The copper was relatively easy to access. Within some 800 metres there were five important lodes running roughly north-south for about 1 km.

The Hughes Pump Engine House and Chimney with Elderšs Shaft in the foreground

The process of mining is recorded at the Moonta Railway Station. 'The copper ore occurred at irregular lodes filling steeply dipping cracks in the country rocks. The initial grade of ore worked averaged 30 per cent copper - a very high figure by modern standards - but by 1908 the average grade had dropped to 4 per cent.

The town was laid out in 1863 and formally opened by the Governor Sir Dominick Daly that same year. Three years later a horse-drawn traction tramway was completed which connected Moonta and Wallaroo. With a fine sense of wit the locals called the coaches 'Prince Albert' and 'Garibaldi'.

In order to attract miners to the area there was an advertisement which read "Free. Emigration to Port Adelaide, South Australia. Married agricultural laborers (sic), shepherds, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, employers, tailors, shoe-makers, brick-makers, builders and all persons engaged in useful occupations may obtain a free passage to South Australia where they are within the regulations of the Colonial Commissioners. Meeting to be held at Bodmin at 10 o'clock on October 15.'

The first miners at Moonta were Cornishmen, using methods developed in Cornwall over several centuries. A miner began his working life as a 'picky boy' whose job was to sit at a table or conveyor belt sorting good ore from waste. After a few years he could join a team working underground at the rock face sinking shafts and opening drives; this was known as 'tut work'. Miners showing promise would then be invited to enjoy a 'tribute' team working the exposed ore body and paid on the amount of value of ore shifted. Tributers tendered for an area underground and could make a very good living in rich ore zones. The tribute system was supervised by mine 'captains' appointed by the company. While the lodes were rich and ore could be seen by candlelight, the tribute system worked well. However tribute mining was abolished at Moonta in 1910 owing to falling ore grades.'

By 1875 Moonta had a population of over 12,000 people and was the second-largest town in South Australia. By 1917 the district had produced so much copper that the wealth generated exceeded all other mining in the state since its inception in 1836.

The main mines closed down in 1923. Since then mining has continued in the area in fits and starts. There were small syndicates working various mines during the 1930s and World War II and the Wheal Hughes Mine (now a tourist attraction) operated in the 1980s although it only employed 13 miners.

Today Moonta is one of the most historically significant towns in South Australia. The ruins of the old copper works are fascinating. The historic buildings have been well cared for. The museum and the Wheal Hughes mine are both well worth visiting.

Things to see:  

Moonta Railway Station
Driving into town from Wallaroo you will pass the Moonta Railway Station which serves as the local tourist information office. The ceiling at the Moonta Railway Station is an interesting example of a pressed metal ceiling which was commonplace at the time of construction. The Moonta Railway Station is an ideal starting point for anyone wanting to explore the town as it is the only place where tickets for the Wheal Hughes Copper Mine tour can be purchased and it has a good range of brochures and maps which will help the visitor to find their way around the major site and ruins.

Moonta Mines Museum
A truly impressive and detailed history of the mining and the people engaged in mining in the local area. There are hands-on exhibits for children which demonstrate the cycle of mining. There are also very substantial rooms full of memorabilia which is well displayed. A number of good books on the area are available for sale. There are also interesting displays relating to the lodges and friendly societies which operated in the town and an entire classroom has been left intact as though the teacher only departed a few minutes ago. It dates from 1900.

Built as school 1878, open Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m., public and school holidays 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. - (08) 8825 2152 or (08) 8825 1988

The Old Sweet Shop
Over the road from the Moonta Mines Museum is the Old Sweet Shop, a genuine and delightful trip into the past with large jars of sweets adorning the walls. It also has very good Cornish pasties for those who are eager to try the local 'delicacy'. The building was formerly the Moonta Mines Post Office.

Wheal Munta & Tourist Railway
No more than 50 metres away from the Museum is the local Tourist Railway, a narrow gauge rail journey which takes about 50 minutes. The journey passes the reservoir and ore sorting floors, goes through a tunnel in Ryan's tailing heap, stops at the old precipitation works and then continues on to the old Moonta Railway Station.

Departs hourly on Saturday, Sunday, public and school holidays; leaves from station adjacent to museum.

Richman and Taylor's mine from the huge 'The Himalayas'

Richman's Concentrating Plant
Located only a few hundred metres up the road from the museum (continue on the road to Arthurton) Richman's Concentrating Plant is basically a ruin and a huge skimpings (tailings) heap. You can see the remnants of Richman and Taylor's mine in the distance because the giant skimp heap (known locally as 'The Himalayas') is like a small mountain in the flatlands around Moonta. In recent times a proper walkway and stairway has been constructed from Richman's Engine (the pumping station at the base of the skimp heap) and it is possible to walk to the top where there are excellent views over the surrounding countryside.

Hughes Engine Pumping House (1865)
Return to the main road and continue a few hundred metres further towards Arthurton until you come to the signs to Hughes Engine Pumping House which stands forlornly and prominently on the right hand side of the road. Once the centre of the main mining area (it is worth finding photographs which show how central it was) the Hughes Engine was a huge piece of equipment used to pump water out of the mines. It is now in ruins but the chimney remains intact and, with the help of photographs and illustrations, it is easy to see how the giant pump worked when it is was in operation. Today the house is home to flocks of pigeons and the surrounding area is barren and flat.

A sign outside describes the origins of the building in the following terms: 'This Pumping House contained a Cornish pumping engine built by Harveys of Cornwall. The Engine House and its associated chimney were built in 1865. This pump was essential for the operation of the Moonta mines, removing the water which constantly seeped into the deep shafts and drives. The brackish water extracted from the mine was used in the ore crushing process and for firefighting. Excess water was run out to sea near Moonta Bay. This same engine operated a pump at Taylors Shaft 300 metres to the north. Taylor's Shaft was 768 m deep compared with the 366 m deep Hughes shaft. Flat rods from the Hughes engine ran in a shallow channel along the ground to Taylor's shaft. Parts of this channel are still visible on the direct line to the Tayloršs Shaft to the north of this sign. The pumps in the lower level of Taylor's Shaft raised the water to the 366 metre level from where it flowed across to the pump at the base of the Hughes shaft.'

Moonta Mines Wesley Methodist Church

Moonta Mines Wesley Methodist Church (1865)
This is well worth making the effort to see. A truly remarkable church which shows how deeply Methodism characterised the mining community (particularly the Cornish and the Welsh) at the peak of local operations. Methodist churches are usually characterised by great simplicity and asceticism (part of John Wesley's disapproval of Roman Catholic images and iconography). This is a singularly impressive church which, while it has no iconography, has a huge gallery which holds hundreds of people and a truly beautiful pipe organ. It is said that literally everyone went to church (its capacity is 1250 people) and that the Mine Captains always sat up the back and took mental note of any miner or worker who was not present on Sunday. Today the church is a remarkable reminder of the religion which was brought to the South Australian copper mines. Open during Sunday services and Saturday/Sunday p.m. October to May.

The parlour at the Miners Cottage

Miner's Cottage and Garden
Built in 1870 this is a very typical cottage of its era. The cottage was originally built by John Wood, a brickmaker, with clay coming from a quarry nearby. A charming and beautifully preserved old miner's cottage full of memorabilia. The rooms have been carefully furnished to reflect the utensils and furniture of the time. There is a parlour, a lounge room, a kitchen, a bedroom. It is well worth visiting. Open Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday 1:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.; public and school holidays 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Contact (08) 8825 2172

Other Buildings in the Town Centre:
Freemasons Hall (1875)
Located in Blanche Terrace and built in 1875 this is the oldest hall built by the Freemasons in Australia. Recent changes regarding the secrecy of Freemasons mean that if you can organise it (and the effort is well worthwhile) you can go inside and inspect the unusual ritual regalia. There are few buildings I have been in, in Australia which I have found more fascinating. It was like entering a foreign and alien world. Nothing prepared me for the ornate and beautiful chairs and the placement of the lodge members around the room.

Uniting Church (1870s)
Located in Robert Street this was formerly a Wesleyan Methodist church and, amazingly, was one of 16 Methodist churches in Moonta. It has Gothic style turrets and shallow flying buttresses and overlooks Queen Square.

National Bank
Located in George Street and built in 1867 this is a symbol of the town's prosperity during the years when copper brought wealth to the district. There is a drinking fountain outside which was constructed in 1891 to celebrate the fact that the town finally had a reticulated water supply.

The Hotels
The Cornwall Hotel and the Royal Hotel both date from the mid 1860's and the Moonta Hotel was opened for business in 1863.

Around Moonta
Cemetery
Although it has been subject to considerable vandalism the Moonta cemetery is of great interest. Of particular note are the large number of unmarked childrens graves (just beyond the main gates). A plaque records that these simple mounds hide the bodies of children killed by disease which raged through the town due to the unsanitary conditions around the mines. For more information contact (08) 8825 2410

The entrance to the Wheal Hughes mine shaft

Wheal Hughes Mine
The highlight of any visit to the mining triangle of South Australia is the opportunity to go down into a mine. In recent times a very well organised tour of the remnants of the Wheal Hughes Mine has made this possible. Visitors have to purchase their tickets at the Moonta Railway Station Information Office. There is a people mover which takes people down the open cut section of the mine to the entrance of the tunnel. From that point visitors, complete with protective head gear, gumboots and battery operated lights, head down into the darkness. The main features worth reflecting on are that this is rock which is so hard that the idea of a roof collapse is quite impossible and that at those points where ground water seeps through there are bright green patches where the leached copper has been deposited on the rocks. In summer time the mine is wonderfully cool.

History of Wheal Hughes Mine
'Wheal' is a Cornish word meaning 'mine' and Walter Watson Hughes was an important mine owner in Moonta. This modern open cut mine was opened in the 1980s and closed in 1993. Two years later it was purchased by the Copper Coast Council and turned into a tourist attraction. For more information contact (08) 8825 1892.

The jetty at Moonta Bay

Moonta Bay and Port Hughes
Located only five minutes from the centre of Moonta, Moonta Bay and Port Hughes are part of a delightful stretch of the Spencer Gulf. It is known for its fishing (good from the jetties but not worth bothering about from the beach or the rocks), sailing, sailboarding and diving. It is possible to hire a boat from Copper Triangle Charters to fish the waters off Port Hughes. Contact (08) 8825 3814 or 017 868 190 for details. There is also the Moonta Wildlife Park at Rossiters Road, Moonta Bay which native animals and birds as well as a barbecue area. Contact (08) 8825 1888 for more information.

Kernewek Lowender
Promoted as 'the world's largest Cornish Festival' and held in May each year this is a powerful reminder of how the Cornish impacted on this whole area. There are dances (the Furry Dance), craft displays, Cornish folk singers, pasty making competitions and a myriad of other activities. For more information contact Brian Harris on (08) 8823 3333 or the Yorke Peninsula Visitor Information Centre.

	Tourist Information
	Moonta Tourist Information Centre Kadina Rd Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 1891 or (08) 8825 1892 Facsimile: (08) 8825 2930
	Port Hughes Accommodation Centre Uffindel St Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 3496
	Motels
	Moonta Bay Patio Motel 196 Bay Rd Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2473, 1800 626 869 Rating: **
	Hotels
	Cornwall Hotel 20 Ryan St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2304 Rating: *
	Moonta Hotel George St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2209
	Royal Hotel 2 Ryan St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2108
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Baroona Cottage Bed & Breakfast 785 Hare Tce Moonta Mines Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 3430
	Gumbrea Retreat Bed & Breakfast 70 Wallaroo Rd Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 3840
	Apartments
	Blue Fin Holiday Apts 6 Dowling Dve Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2880
	Cottages & Cabins
	Maji Cottage 20 Minnie Tce Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2251
	Moonta Bay Caravan Park Tossell St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2406 Facsimile: (08) 8825 2064 Rating: **1/2
	Port Hughes Tourist Village Cnr Minnie & West Tce Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2106 Facsimile: (08) 8825 2933 Rating: ***1/2
	Caravan Parks
	Moonta Bay Caravan Park Tossell St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2406 Facsimile: (08) 8825 2064 Rating: ***
	Port Hughes Tourist Village South Tce Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8852 2106
	Port Hughes Tourist Village Cnr Minnie & West Tce Port Hughes Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2106 Facsimile: (08) 8825 2933 Rating: ***1/2
	Restaurants
	Cornwall Hotel 20 Ryan St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2304
	Moonta Pizza Cafe 49 George St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 3222
	Royal Hotel 2 Ryan St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2108
	Shaft Steak House Ellen St Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2981
	The Moonta Bay Patio Motel & Restaurant Bay Rd Moonta SA 5558 Telephone: (08) 8825 2473