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Pelicans on Lake Macquarie
near Swansea
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Swansea
(including Lake Macquarie, Blacksmiths and Belmont)
Major town on Lake Macquarie
Swansea, 131 km north of Sydney via the Newcastle Freeway,
is the largest town in the City of Lake Macquarie which covers 749
square kilometres and within which are some 175 510 persons.
The lake itself is the largest coastal saltwater lake in the
Southern Hemisphere, covering 109 square kilometres (four times the
size of Sydney Harbour). It is 24 km long, 3.2 km across at its widest
point and 9.7 m at its deepest. There is no appreciable tidal range
within the lake although the tidal race at Swansea Channel can be
strong. There are 92 towns and villages, 29 public boat ramps, 28
public jetties and wharves and 7 marina berth around the lake. The
Swansea channel has six boat ramps and a public wharf by the southern
side of the bridge. Despite being overfished in the past the lake still
has good supplies of whiting, bream and flathead for the angler.
Lake Macquarie is linked to the ocean by a narrow
channel. It was, at one time, a bay, but it was almost enclosed by the
development of sandbars caused by wind, waves and tides.
The lake's foreshore consists of 174 km of bays,
beaches and headlands. The eastern side of the lake is well-developed
and tourist oriented. The western side is quieter and more rural with
scrubby woodland fringing the shores and the Watagan Mountains in the
background.
The southern shore is characterised by bushland and wetlands
while the northern shore is part of the Newcastle sprawl, complete with
heavy, industry, including a major sulphide factory. The area around
the lake has old ties with coalmining which is still the backbone of
the local economy. There are about a dozen mines around the lake, a few
dating back to the start of the century.
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Houses on the edge of Lake
Macquarie near Swansea
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The headland by the
entrance to Lake Macquarie, at the north-eastern corner of Swansea, is
known as Reid's Mistake after Captain William Reid who, in 1800, became
the first European to make his way into the lake. Sent from Sydney to
collect coal from the mouth of the Hunter River he mistook the channel
for the river estuary, ventured inside and there encountered some
members of the Awabakal tribe, who directed him to some embedded in the
headland. It was only upon his return to Sydney that he realised he had
got the wrong coal. The lake was known as Reid's Mistake until 1826
when it was renamed in honour of Governor Lachlan Macquarie.
Pressure from settlers wishing to move into the Hunter Valley
caused the penal settlement to be removed to Port Macquarie. By far the
most important of the early settlers was a missionary, the Reverend
Lancelot Threlkeld, an ex-actor and businessman who, in 1826,
established a 1000-acre reserve for an Aboriginal mission which
occupied the whole northern peninsula, from Pelican north-west to
Redhead and north-east to Croudace Bay.
Threlkeld chose the land after noting it was a gathering
point for Aborigines, drawn by the living conditions and food around
the lake. He held his Aboriginal friends in high regard and learned
their language so as to communicate and to translate scripture (this
work being an early landmark in Aboriginal studies). The mission house,
called 'Bahtahbah', was located on a rise overlooking Belmont Bay. It
was connected to Newcastle by a rough dray track. He started the first
coal mine around the lake at Coal Point, c.1840, and subsequently
bought ten acres at Swansea Heads for coal-loading and storage around
1842.
The first land grant on the southern side of the channel was
to J.H. Boughton in 1833. He started up a small saltworks managed by
convict servants in 1835 but was forced to shut down the operations
when his servants helped some runaways across the entrance. Cattle
thieves then utilised the buildings until they were arrested in 1841.
Two settlers named Taaffe and Boyd arrived in the 1850s.
Taaffe was a farmer and grazier who ran cattle near Chain Valley Bay.
Boyd was his brother-in-law. A mariner who piloted boats in and out of
the lake he was appointed pilot at Swansea (then known as Pelican Flat)
in 1883. His brother Thomas became the lake's first fisheries inspector
and his son James became a boatbuilder, establishing J.L. Boyd and Sons
of Newcastle.
By 1860 there were 30 or 40 Chinese living at Pelican Flat,
Swansea's western peninsula. They caught and dried fish and grew
vegetables. The first town allotments at Swansea went up for sale in
1863, taken up by fishermen and seamen. Others relied on the burning of
oyster shells for lime, the making of hats from cabbage trees and the
procuring of swans. A water cargo trade based on coal and timber flourished.
The road from Newcastle to the northern side of
the channel was improved in 1873. From there people crossed by boat
with horses swimming behind. A school opened in 1875-76. By 1877 there
were 120 people at Pelican Flat and a dredge was at work deepening the
shallow channel. More settlers arrived from Catherine Hill Bay when the
mine closed that year. Consequently the postal service was moved from
Catherine Hill Bay to Pelican Flat in 1879.
The name of the settlement was changed from Pelican Flat
to Swansea in 1887. However its hopes of becoming a major commercial
and coal-shipping port ended with the completion of the Sydney to
Newcastle railway along the western shore in 1889.
Just inside the lake entrance, on the southern side of the
channel, is Black Ned's Bay, named after the last member of the
Awabakal tribe to live in the area after the tribe had been destroyed.
Black Ned lived there with his wife, a blind mother whom he supported,
and four or five children.
In the 1950s a series of power stations were built
around the lake, at Eraring, Wangi Wangi and Eraring (tours of the
latter can be arranged by phoning 02 4352 6111). Swansea has been a
resort for many years now and is very popular with anglers. Caves
Beach, on the ocean side of the peninsula, is usually full of surfers.
Blacksmiths Beach is also popular.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
Lake Macquarie Visitor Information Centre (4972
1172) is eccentrically located on the first floor in The Swansea Centre
at 228 Pacific Highway, just beyond the roundabout. It is large,
well-organised and professionally run and an obvious place to start
your investigation of the City of Lake Macquarie. They have a number of
books related to the region, including Walks in Newcastle and Lake
Macquarie, and Coastal Walks from Newcastle to Sydney, both by Ken
Scott. There are also two large photographic books: A Pictorial History
of Lake Macquarie and This Is Lake Macquarie.
Blacksmiths Beach
Along the eastern shore of the northern peninsula is
Blacksmiths Beach which is popular with surfers. To get there head
north from the bridge, along the highway, and take the first right into
Ungala Rd. At its end is the surf lifesaving club. This is a good spot
to access the beach. There is a breakwater nearby, at the mouth to the
channel, and just offshore is Moon Island, a breeding site for birds.
To the north Blacksmiths Beach is known as Nine Mile Beach, which
stretches northwards to Redhead Pt. That stretch is unpatrolled and
considered dangerous.
Pelican
On the western side
of the northern peninsula is a camping area by Pelican Inlet which is
notable for, well, its pelicans. This is a well-treed area. There are
picnic and barbecue facilities, a playground, two boat ramps and
pleasant views along the remainder of the channel to Lake Head where
Spectacle Island, Pelican Island (both with patches of trees) and a
vegetationless sand isle stand guard over the outlet. Directly opposite
is the north-eastern tip of the southern peninsula, although the
closest section is Coon Island, separated off from the main body of the
southern peninsula by a very narrow rivulet. Nearby, at the northern
tip of Lakeview Pde, is Pelican Boating Centre where there are boats
and houseboats for hire, contact 02 4972 0790. Just to the north, along
the highway, is Aeropelican Airport from whence there are flights to
(and from) Sydney, contact (02) 4945 0988.
To access this area, proceed north from the bridge,
along the highway, to the first set of traffic lights and turn left
into Turea St. At the T-intersection turn left into Ninag St then turn
right at the next T-intersection into Lakeview Parade and proceed to
the lake's edge.
East Lake Macquarie Historical Society
The East Lake Macquarie Historical Society is located in the
Swansea Arcade in Shop 22/174 Lake Road Swansea. Some of the areas
covered by the society include Aboriginal heritage, early settlers,
ship building and coal mining. It aims to provide opportunities for
historical research to the general public and schools. The office is
open four days a week Tuesday to Friday from 9.30 to 12.30, or by
appointment. Contact (02) 4971 3509 or write to PO Box 284 Swansea NSW 2281
Lookout
At the southern end of
Swansea is a good lookout. The only access is by turning east off the
highway into Bowman St at the roundabout (opposite McDonalds). Turn
right into Park St and follow it south for 1 km then turn right into
Scenic Drive. Head up the steep hill for 1 km and you will see an
un-signposted turnoff to the right which will take you to the lookout
area. There are 360-degree views: south-south-west to the stacks of
Vales Point Power Station, on the southern shore of Lake Macquarie;
south-west to the long, narrow Pt Wolstoncroft Peninsula; west to
Pulbah Island in the middle of the lake; north-west to Wangi Wangi Pt
at the end of a peninsula which extends from the western shore of the
lake; north-north-west to Coal Pt, at the end of the Toronto Peninsula,
and north over Swansea.
At the eastern edge of Swansea one can see Lake
Entrance. The inlet channel snakes its tortuous way from Reid's Mistake
Headlands and the breakwater around to Black Neds Bay, branching off in
a large U through a narrow inlet on the southern side of the channel,
under the bridge, past the various sand islands and into the lake. Just
offshore from the headlands is Moon Island. On the northern side of the
headland the coast stretched north along Nine Mile Beach to Redhead Pt.
The southern coastline is characterised by a rocky shoreline with
Catherine Hill Bay in the distance.
Caves Beach
If you return to Park Rd and turn right it will empty
into Caves Beach Rd. A number of side roads branch off to the east to
Caves Beach, where there is a network of caverns. This is another
popular surfing beach.
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Tourist Information
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Lake Macquarie Visitor Centre
72 Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4972 1172
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Motels
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Black Swan Waterfront Motel
137 Bowman St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1392
Rating: ***
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Blue Pacific Motel
82 Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1055
Facsimile: (02) 4971 1296
Rating: ***
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Rafferty's Resort , Lake Macquarie
1 Wild Duck Dr
Cams Wharf
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4972 5555 or 1800 811 712
Facsimile: (02) 4972 5253
Rating: *****
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Swansea Motel
250 Old Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1811
Rating: ***
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Hotels
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Swansea Hotel
196 High St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1227
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Wallarah Hotel
Clark St
Catherine Hill Bay
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4976 1222
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Resorts
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Rafferty's Resort, Lake Macquarie
1 Wild Duck Dr
Cams Wharf
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4972 5555 or 1800 811 712
Facsimile: (02) 4972 5253
Rating: *****
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Cottages & Cabins
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Selby Lakeside Cottage
66 Lakeside Dve
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4976 1414
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Caravan Parks
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Blacksmiths Tourist Park
Gommera St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 2858
Rating: *
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Sunstrip Caravan Park
68 Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1165
Rating: **
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the Breakers Holiday Complex
Mawson Cl.
Caves Beach
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 4610
Facsimile: (02) 4971 4610
Rating: ***
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Swansea Gardens Tourist Park
Wallarah St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 2869
Rating: ****
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Camping & Other
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The Beach House
158 Caves Beach Rd
Caves Beach
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: 1800 244 132
Facsimile: (02) 4956 9055
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Restaurants
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Black Ned's Restaurant
Swansea RSL Club
12 Chalmers St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 3400
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Blue Pacific Motel Restaurant
82 Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1055
Facsimile: (02) 4971 1296
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Emerald Chinese Restaurant
Tauranga Rd
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 1181
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Rafferty's Resort, Lake Macquarie
1 Wild Duck Dr
Cams Wharf
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4972 5555 or 1800 811 712
Facsimile: (02) 4972 5253
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Swansea Mandarin Restaurant
116 Pacific Hwy
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 2361
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Swansea Workers Club Chinese Restaurant
Rawson St
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 3933
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Cafés
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Islandia Coffee Kitchen
11 Swansea Arc.
Swansea
NSW
2281
Telephone: (02) 4971 4230
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