Milparinka (including Albert and Mt Poole)
A tiny outback settlement, now a virtual ghost town
Milparinka is located 296 km north of Broken Hill, 39 km
south of Tibooburra and 1465 km from Sydney. It was probably named
after the local Aboriginal word meaning 'water may be found here'.
Considerable efforts have been made in recent years to preserve the
town's heritage and improve its facilities and services for visitors. A
sign of this renewed effort is the Once a Jolly Swagman Festival,
inaugurated at Easter in the year 2003. There are also plans to develop
bush tucker and native wild flower plantings in order to generate a
sustainable industry for the community.
The first European through the area was Charles Sturt in 1845
and the town came into existence in the 1880s when there was a brief,
and rather unsuccessful, goldrush nearby. 16 km west of the tiny
settlement are some grim reminders of Charles Sturt's 1845 expedition
to Central Australia in which, once again, he searched unsuccessfully
for an inland sea. Adjacent Mount Poole homestead is a permanent
waterhole on Preservation Creek known as Depot Glen where Sturt and his
party were forced to camp for six months waiting for heavy rains to
replenish their steadily diminishing water supply in what turned out to
be one of the worst droughts ever recorded. Just to the north is the
lonely grave of James Poole, Sturt's second-in-command, who died of
scurvy a few miles from the Depot while being carried home. The party
buried him under a grevillea tree, carving his initials and the year
1845 into the tree, which still stands. There is also a memorial
headstone. The other graves in the area are of local station owners and employees.
On the top of Mount Poole there is a stone cairn
which Sturt had his party build to 'give the men occupation'. Sturt
wrote in his diary that when constructing the cairn 'I little thought
when I was engaged in that work, that I was erecting Mr Poole's
monument, but so it was, that rude structure looks over his lonely
grave, and will stand for ages as a record of all we suffered in the
dreary region to which we were so long confined.'
Remarkably when the drought broke Sturt pushed
further north only to be driven back by the waterless wastelands of the
Simpson Desert.
Milparinka became the first permanent settlement on
the Albert Goldfields in the early 1880s, after gold was discovered at
Mt Browne. It emerged on this sandstone hill, overlooking a waterhole
on the Evelyn Creek. At that time Milparinka was a shanty town of
several hundred people living in rough huts and tents. However, local
sandstone was available for building purposes and more substantial
buildings soon emerged. Consequently, it soon had its own newspaper,
police office, chemist shop, two butchers, a courthouse (1886), a
school (1883), a hospital (1889) and four hotels. The town's one
remaining hotel, and the only one between Broken Hill and Tibooburra,
is the Albert, first licensed in 1882. The old courthouse, police
barracks and bank are nearby. The old post office is located in Loftus
St.
Two other towns, Albert - which once had a population of 900
- and Mt Browne, existed briefly but only a few ruins remain today. A
cemetery can also be found some distance from the Mt Browne diggings.
The lack of water made gold prospecting extraordinarily difficult. Dry
blowing was used and some miners even carted their gold bearing dirt to
Milparinka where they washed it in the town's waterhole. The diggings
were largely abandoned by 1893.
In summertime it is not uncommon for temperatures to
reach 50°C, thus the annual gymkhana is held in July.
Things to see:
Walking Trail
A brochure is available from the courthouse (see next
entry) and the hotel. It will lead you on a walk around the town's
heritage sites, taking in the school, the Baker's House, an historic
underground water tank and the cemetery, among others. The information
centre, due to open late in 2004 at the police barracks (see below),
will become the obvious place to pick up the walking brochure but it is
expected a human guide will also be available to conduct a guided tour.
Milparinka Courthouse Local History Centre
The old courthouse, built of local sandstone in 1886,
ceased its judicial functions in 1921 and later served as a post office
and as a government office. It is now a local history centre with
disabled facilities and historic items on display (gold coin donation
for entry).
Police Barracks
Adjacent the courthouse are the old police barracks,
which confined those about to face charges. It contained two square
cells of solid sandstone and heavy wooden doors. The complex is to be
redeveloped as a tourist attraction, tourist information centre and
souvenir shop. The information centre is due to open late in the year
2004 and it will become the obvious place to pick up the walking
brochure but it is expected a human guide will also be available to
conduct a guided tour.
Harry Blore Memorial Park
Over the road is a park featuring displays of
indigenous flora and a gazebo featuring interpretive material. A
memorial to those who died in the two world wars is under construction.
Pastoral History Shed
About 50 metres south of the hotel (between the hotel
and the courthouse), is a shed which features interpretive material
relating to the pastoral industry. Nearby are public toilets in a
pleasant bush setting.
The Baker House
Located just past the courthouse and beyond the pub are
the remnants of the house the Baker family lived in. This is a
fascinating insight into the lifestyle and origins of some of
Milparinka's original inhabitants. Jeremiah and Ellen had previously
worked on the goldfields at Araluen in New South Wales and obviously
didn't mind the hardship. Today only a shell remains.
Exploring the Area
The local source of all knowledge is the publican of the
Albert Hotel and before visiting the sites of Sturt's expedition it is
wise to get directions from him. Poole's grave and the stone cairn are
both on private property and are open to the public courtesy of the
owners of Mt Poole Station, though the homestead and buildings are not
open for inspection.
Remember, the local roads are gravel and can be hazardous or
impassable after wet weather. Phone the Roads and Traffic Authority for
an up-to-date report on their condition.
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Tourist Information
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Milparinka Albert Hotel
Loftus St
Milparinka
NSW
2880
Telephone: (08) 8091 3863
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Hotels
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Milparinka Albert Hotel
Loftus St
Milparinka
NSW
2880
Telephone: (08) 8091 3863
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Restaurants
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Milparinka Albert Hotel
Loftus St
Milparinka
NSW
2880
Telephone: (08) 8091 3863
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